Far East Tour, 2005

A special first-class offer from Eva Air, the Taiwanese carrier, encouraged me to go back to Taiwan after a break of more than twenty-five years. I also determined to stop off in Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. It was another wonderful trip. There follows my original e-mails produced on the trip, only lightly edited and preserving, I hope, the original breathless style.

Sunday, 19-Jun-2005: In the 'front cabin' upstairs on an Eva Air 747 - just 8 of us. After take-off they served a reasonable dinner (starting with caviar) and then expected us to sleep (their seats, whilst not very modern, recline almost flat). And the supply of a duvet, rather than a blanket, was a distinct improvement. Watched 'Be Cool' and half of something else, then slept a bit. A couple of hours before Bangkok, they served a sort of breakfast, although it was mid-afternoon local time. Didn't go through immigration at Bangkok 'cos I had a connection to Saigon on an Air France flight. Some confusion because they don't man the transfer desks at quiet times (like Sunday afternoon) so eventually I and a young Vietnamese returning from Holland managed to check in at the Air France lounge. They made it up to us, though, because when we got to the gate they upgraded us both from economy to 'Affaires' (business class). Only a short flight but excellent with a very edible light meal. Arrived at dusk on time at Saigon or 'Ho Chi Minh City' (or, as Air France call it, 'Ho Chi Minh Ville'). Met the agent and transferred to the 'Sofitel Plaza Hotel'. I was glad to get a shower and change then decided to go for a walk, armed with a small map.The population is about 8 million, with about 3 million motor bikes (mainly Honda C50 or similar, either imported or made in Vietnam under license, but there are some 'Vespa' style). Road discipline is non-existent and the traffic never stops, so you just have to brave it crossing roads. Quite interesting in the dark with just a mass of headlights bearing down on you. Temperature still in the nineties Farenheight and Sunday's a day off (although most of the shops and cafes are open) so everybody's out, sitting around everywhere, talking. I found the British Trade Mission, the Post Office (open and thronged) the brick Notre Dame cathedral, City Hall (very over the top, presumably French colonial but nicely restored), a small Opera House (poor man's version of the Paris Opera), office blocks, shopping streets and the Saigon River. Lots of people at riverside cafes until the rain started. Then they instantly disappeared, huddled under voluminous plastic macs, driving away on scooters whilst the staff cleared away the chairs. Passed the Bason Shipyard and then navigated straight back to the hotel (I'm pleased to say - I was a bit wet when I got back). Well, that's enough for today - tomorrow I go on a tour up-country then Tuesday, I fly to Cambodia.

Monday, 20-Jun-2005: By car this morning south on Highway 1A to the important fishing port of My Tho in the Mekong. Everything from one man trawling from a small boat to much larger ocean going vessels. We charter a boat crewed by two (the helmsman steers the tiller with his foot) around islands in the river, passing large sand barges, each propelled by a powerful tug, taking away dredged sand for building purposes. We land on another island (pop. 300) which is now a tourist destination. Take honey tea at a bee farm (excellent, but I suspect you need the fresh limes they use to give it that 'kick'). Compulsory photograph with python around shoulders (didn't find out what connection between bees and pythons is). Then on to sample local fruits. Most not to my taste but the tiny bananas (called ladies fingers) are good.Then on to see coconut candy being made. Finished result had too much peanut for my palate. Then trip on a small boat along a quiet and attractive canal - one woman sitting on the bow paddling, one man in the stern also paddling. Then from little boat to pontoon, pontoon to our first boat and back to My Tho. Weather excellent during trip and during return to Saigon.

I visit the curiously-named 'War Remnants in Vietnam' museum - essential but harrowing.

Population now is about 10% Catholic, rest Buddhist, Taoist or Confucian or a mixture. In the 1920s the Cao Dai (say "Cow Die") religion was founded to fuse these four beliefs - we visited one of their temples. But it was the 200-year old Confucian temple visited in the afternoon I found really spiritual.

There's an ongoing problem from injuries due to uncleared land mines and deformed children born to mothers who were affected by Agent Orange defoliant. The government has a programme to place such people in work so we visited 'Handicapped Handicraft' where they make beautiful inlay and lacquerwork. Watched the processes - it is incredibly intricate and time-consuming. Then, when I was in the showroom there was such a heavy tropical storm that the workshop flooded to a couple of inches and the showroom staff had to move some of the stuff of the floor because of water coming under the doors!

Back to hotel, shower, rest and meal then out for a walk in the dark again. It's the most terrifying place to be a pedestrian (or driver). Although there are some traffic lights, most junctions are uncontrolled and everybody just pushes ahead in a fairly good-natured way with a lot of horn blowing (as a warning - not out of irritation). I managed to walk as far as the railway station. As I expected, not much going on but there is one preserved steam locomotive outside (apparently French-built 2-8-2). Then managed to get back by taxi (driver had no English and couldn't read a map, but it was OK). And so to bed. I could easily spend a lot more time looking at Vietnam but tomorrow morning I fly to Cambodia.

My photographs of Vietnam are at Vietnam.

Tuesday, 21-Jun-2005: Breakfast in HCM City, quick walk around local area to watch people going to work (a 2-chair barber 'shop' on the pavement doing good business caught my eye) then transfer to the airport. Vietnam Airlines flight by Airbus A340 to Siem Reap - only 1 hour in the air but a lot more hanging around on the ground.

I had been warned to bring a passport photo to apply for a tourist visa on arrival. A long counter had about 8 men behind. You deliver your visa application, passport, money, photo to the first man and then go to the last man while the application moves from man to man. Amusing, but quite speedy. Armed with the visa, through immigration, checked baggage was waiting for me, through customs and met by tour guide for transfer to Seam Reap.

It's hard to believe there was bloody civil war waging in Cambodia less than 10 years ago. Once again, it's a constitutional monarchy, pop. 11 million, I think, and allegedly 90% Buddhist. Siem Reap is a provincial town re-inventing itself as a major tourist destination because Angkor Wat is less than 4 miles away.

I'm at 'La Residence', a joint Thai-Orient Express operation. Rooms are off open galleries on two stories arranged around a quadrangle with a swimming pool discreetly hidden amongst the palms. The building is modern but Khymer-style, massive wooden construction (probably reinforced concrete underneath). Very appealing. Room huge, tasteful, balcony overlooking quadrangle. Staff very friendly, always smiling. Today, hotel is quite empty (suits me), parties leaving and arriving on different dates, they say, but being rainy season it's also tourist low season. Good. Hot when I go for a walk round the town - about 35 C. There are now 200 hotels in Siem Reap, many new buildings, many shops catering for tourists. But an interesting Central Market and the usual plethora of roadside stalls plus an internet cafe (which I didn't stop to use - I'm in the hotel which is far more expensive for internet).

It's an agrarian society with plenty of poverty as evidenced by the street beggars. It prompts the usual philosophical ponderings. Is it right that we have so much and some of them so little? I can see how being a Buddhist might help, if you can believe you are suffering this for a better life in your next incarnation. Then on the way back there's these insistent but charming children selling postcards. Mao, On and Jimmy, two girls and a boy around 11, born entrepreneurs, full of life, intelligent, excellent command of English, with their own e-mail address. I have great hopes for Cambodia in the future if she can turn out people like this. That's meant to sound admiring, not condescending. On my return to the hotel, the rain started and was very heavy, then eased off and has now stopped.

This evening, treated myself to dinner in the hotel restaurant. I went outside on the terrace. With the traditional electric fans going, very pleasant and only me. I don't like all this air conditioning. Consomme followed by sea bass 'nouvelle cuisine' - really good. Tomorrow, I visit Angkor Wat. Then we'll see how many tourists are around! I'm here tomorrow night as well, so I may well give you my impressions.

My photographs of Cambodia are at Cambodia.

Wednesday, 22-Jun-2005:

Short version: Jan looked at a load of old temples.

Longer version: A thousand years ago the Khymer empire was much larger than modern Cambodia. The king first established a city on a mountain at Phnom Bakheng (see below) but later a new city was built nearby at Angkor Thom. The city was 2 miles square, with 20 ft stonewalls pierced by 5 elaborate stone gatehouses. The population of around 1 million lived in wooden houses of which nothing remains - the wooden king's palace was also lost. But the stone walls, gatehouses, temples, terraces and certain other buildings remain in ruined form. This morning, I clambered over them in the 37 degrees Celsius sticky heat with my guide.

In the temples and elsewhere, there is little plain stone - it is all elaborately carved, sometimes in shallow 'bas relief', sometimes in deep relief. It's a mind-blowing experience, although there were too many other tourists for my preference! By noon, I was happy to return to the haven of my hotel for a shower, a change and a snack. Thus revived, we went back to Angkor Wat. This is the temple everybody knows. It's huge - a rectangular site enclosed by a wall 3.5 miles long, outside which there's a moat (still wet) 600 feet wide. A causeway leads you across the moat to a massive gatehouse with 5 entrances (1 for king, 2 for priests, 2 for elephants). In the middle of the site is the temple itself, 700 feet by 600 feet at the first level. Inside the wall but outside the temple 20,000 workers lived during the construction phase! All around the first level are galleries with bas relief of thousands of figures depicting both Hindu legend and Khymer life. Preservation is variable but the effect is still stunning. There is a second level, smaller than the first, then a third level, still smaller. On the third level are the one large and four smaller towers you must know from photographs, arranged in a 'Quincunx' (like the face of a dice). But it's the exquisite proportions, the smaller but equally elegant buildings like the libraries, the bathing pools, reflecting pools, unexpected views and interconnections and stairs which make the whole so bewitching and so spiritual (if you can avoid the Japanese tour guide with the bullhorn - I kid you not).

With great reluctance I left the Wat and climbed the hill to the ruins at Phnom Bakheng mentioned above. This climb, on top of all the 70-degree-to-horizontal stairs I'd earlier climbed almost finished me off, and a lot of others climbing the hill to watch the sunset. On a good day, there are spectacular lighting effects on the view of Angkor Wat, but today was overcast and not a good sunset. Still worth the climb but, discovering that there's a zig-zag elephant track, I came down in a howdah on an elephant. The steepness of the elephant track threatens to throw you out at every turn, but the elephants are remarkably sure-footed (and the company claims to have insurance!).

Back to the hotel, another shower, a meal and this session on the internet. Now 10.25pm. And so to bed. Tomorrow, more temples then in the evening I fly to Bangkok.

Thursday, 23-Jun-2005:

Now in the departure lounge in Siem Reap airport, waiting for Bangkok flight. Thursday started with a 20 minute helicopter flight over Angkor Wat and other temples in the vicinity. Then, we proceeded by car. I haven't got all the temple names clear yet but we started with a marvellous, delicate small temple with few visitors. I spent some time exploring as it got hotter. Then went on to a much larger pyramidal temple, with lots of climbing up the usual steep steps to reach the top. Ended up at the exquisite Banteay Srei - the 'Ladies Temple' so called because of the delicacy of the carving and elegant proportions. By now running late. Back to hotel for quick shower and check-out, leaving again at 3pm for the final visits to the Roluos group of temples. Ended up at Bahkeng (another pyramid, of course) with lots of locals in festive mood. Then straight to airport and check in. We've just had the call to board, so goodnight!

Friday, 24-Jun-2005:

The one hour flight to Thailand was in a twin turboprop ATR (never been in one before). We arrived about 8.45pm in the dark and heavy rain. But baggage,immigration and customs was quick, the Oriental hotel picked me up as arranged and I was soon on the 8th floor of their River Wing overlooking the 'River of Kings'. The hotel was established in the 19th century and was quite the place for authors and the like. The original building survives as a restaurant/reading room (not been there yet) but most of the hotel is new.

I've had a more gentle day today. Leisurely breakfast on the terrace watching the phenomenal traffic on the river which always fascinates me. Small, tough tugs dragging 2, 3 or 4 barges which can be quite large, with crude shelters on each barge for the crew and often with the gunwhales awash. Sometimes, 2 tugs abreast haul the load - one fleet had a tug ahead and astern (the back one to help with the steering of four large barges, I assume. Then there's 100-seat water taxis racing up and down the river, smaller ferries and the major hotels like the Marriot, Peninsular and Oriental have their own 30-seat ferries with elaborate superstructures built like Thai houses. Finally, there's the small water taxis, long and thin with a high prow and a lorry engine mounted on a pivot at the stern. A long propshaft ends in a propeller about 8 feet behind the boat and the boatman wrestles the engine to achieve amazing speeds, with spray from the prop sometimes thrown 6 feet in the air to the accompaniment of roars from the engine. I got the hotel ferry to Taksin for the Skytrain. This is the overhead mass transit. I spent some time at HSBC Bank, took a walk in Lumpini Park and then took the Subway - a conventional underground which wan't opened last time I was here. It's very similar to the underground systems in Hong Kong and Singapore. I went to Hua Lumphong, the main railway station to check out the changes, then rode the subway to Chatuchak Park. Temperature about 34 degrees Celsius by then so, starting to tire, I returned to the hotel for a late light lunch (again watching the bustle on the river). A nice contrast with yesterday, in the countryside climbing temples. I was really sorry to leave Cambodia.

I've made contact with my Thai friend Dheb and he's taking me out this evening. I've also made contact with the people at the railway museum and I should see them Saturday or Sunday. What else I'll do, I don't know - I'm quite enjoying the breathing space. There's been a thunderstorm whilst I've been doing this but it seems to have stopped now.

My photographs of Bangkok are at Bangkok.

Saturday, 25-Jun-2005:

Well, Dheb took me for a Chinese last night (a very posh Chinese). I managed fairly well (including the chopsticks) and the grouper was superb.

Saturday, I went to see Jim Thompson's house - a museum. He was one of those larger-than-life Americans, went to Thailand at the end of the war for OSS (now CIA) and brought six old Thai houses to Bangkok and assembled his own villa. He developed the Thai modern silk trade more or less single handed and at one time ran the Oriental Hotel. Then, on holiday in Malaysia in the '60s, he disappeared. But the buildings he rescued are full of character and I enjoyed the visit.

Then by Skytain again to Chatuchak where there's a famous, huge weekend market with a free electric shuttle buggy to get you around (did not try). The live fish - presumably for aquaria - and the puppies for sale were a bit disturbing. Whole place heaving with Thais and tourists.

Next, to the 'Railway Museum'. Another shock, because my friend Sanpasiri is now too old to be involved. I'm afraid it's gone downhill and is now also the respository for all sorts of interesting but non-railway things. Anyhow, they were friendly and are trying to educate children so good luck to them.

Returned to hotel a little tired, so short rest then to the original hotel building where they still serve Afternoon Tea, with a resident pianist. I very much enjoyed that.

Then, another trip on the hotel ferry to the nearest Skytrain station (I almost think that's the best bit) and explore another part of the city, watching crowds of mainly middle-class Thais going to a major temple then checkout some of the shopping malls for contrast.

Back to the hotel for 7pm to send this e-mail, then I don't know what I'll do (probably not much). There was a super string quartet in the foyer last night - I hope they play again tonight.

Monday, 27-Jun-2005:

Well, when I got back on Sunday, I composed a long report on my day trip to Ayutthaya. It was detailed, authoritative, witty, insightful with correct Thai spellings. I hit 'send' and it disappeared, no trace, so you'll never know if I was fibbing about how good it was.

I'll try again. Sunday was 1 hour drive to the former capital of Thailand, a World Heritage Site because of the ruined temples. So the short version is "Jan looked at a load of old temples (again)". I can expand on that when I get back. Learnt about training elephants and use of elephants in warfare. Also had (another) elephant ride. Visited a restored temple with worshippers chanting plus four busloads of school kids being lectured by their various teachers. Oddly, the effect was charming. You can imagine the pile of shoes outside (one does not wear shoes in the temple). Buffet lunch in a large tourist hotel then ride round the canals in a longtail boat to visit more temples. I thought we were doing a fair lick until three Thais on jet skis roared past us! Very hot.

My photographs of Ayutthaya are at Ayutthaya.

Thunderstorm on way back, then cleared up so I had a long walk in the evening. Today, out early riding up and down the river on the water taxis. Then trip to a bookshop near the notorious Patpong (clubland) using the Skytrain (gosh, not more books, Jan?). Transfer to Don Muang airport and I'm now in the Eva Air lounge waiting for the flight on to Taipei, Taiwan at 1615. That's my last destination, then it's back home.

Tuesday, 28-Jun-2005:

Excellent flight from Bangkok to Taipei yesterday (seemed to be eating all the time and saw the bits of the film I'd missed coming from London - a lightweight children's adventure called 'The Pacifier' - quite good fun). Baggage, customs all painless, met by driver with limited English and promptly transferred to Taipei. Agora Garden is a newish rather yuppiefied large hotel in the new part of the city. I was last in Taipei about 25 years ago so, as you can imagine, the developments are staggering. 10pm by the time checked in, so retire to bed as being picked up 6.10am Tuesday for Taroko Gorge trip.

Picked up in a bus as planned and go to the 'city' airport a short ride away. When I was last here, this was still the international airport. Meet up with around 15 others and board a TransAsia Airways ATR twin turboprop for the 35 minute hop to Hualien on the East coast. Here, board large Volvo coach with tour guide who does English, Japanese and Mandarin explanations so fast, half the time I'm not sure what language he's in (I was not the only one in that predicament). It had been dry and dull in Taipei but on the East coast, it was hosing it down as we made our way up the Marble Gorge, pausing to look at a factory where they prepare granite and marble for building use.

The Gorge is a staggering place made of granite, limestone and lots of marble. Every time we got out to look at some feature, we had to cower under umbrellas and feet were soon quite wet. But the 2,000 feet from river to mountain top gives some spectacular views. Since I was last here, some of the more hair-raising bits of road have been turned over for walking and new tunnels cut for the road traffic. We do quite a bit of walking, ending up at Tienhsiang, with the prospect of a stiff hike up the hill to Hsiang-Te temple, but the rain's stopped. I made it to the temple and, for good measure, climbed to the top of the pagoda as well. Quite warm when back on the bus.

We return to Hualien, stopping for Chinese lunch at a large 'marble factory' and, what do you know, it just happens to be owned by our guide Mr Su. Then, we check out the carved marble and jewellery on offer. Twenty minutes on the beach, looking East across the Pacific then it's back to the recently-opened new airport terminal at Hualien, this time for a Far Eastern Air Transport twin jet (MD80) back to Taipei.

My photographs of the Taroko Gorge and Hualien are at Taroko Gorge and Hualien.

Another coach ride back to the hotel, arriving about 6pm. I immediately fall asleep for 4 hours, so that takes care of the rest of the day. It's now around midnight and I'm in the business centre, a booth with 4 PCs, overlooking the fairly grand (but fairly quiet) marbled entrance hall. Not decided about tomorrow yet. Mea culpa: The e-mail that got lost included an apology, which I'd better repeat, for the various typos and mis-spellings which have occurred in these messages. I'm sorry for the drop in standards but I've usually been working against the clock and (more to the point) having to pay extortionate hotel rates for use of computer!

I admit, when I arrived in Taipei at night, it seemed rather unfriendly. One thing, the Taiwanese face (probably most Chinese) tends to settle into something of a scowl in respose. The same has been said of me. But they are quick to smile and seem anxious to help (the same has not been said of me). I felt more relaxed after the trip to the East coast and a good buffet breakfast this morning.

So I set off on foot for the nearest MRT (subway) station, this morning only getting slightly lost on the way. Armed with a 1-day pass, I set off for the main railway station, which has been rebuilt since I was here last (in fact, the whole railway through the city was put underground, eliminating a number of horrendous level crossings). Didn't travel on the main line railway, but had a good look round before setting off North on the MRT again, then a taxi to the National Palace Museum. It's under major rebuilding so the exhibition space is restricted but the quality of the exhibits is outstanding. Pity about the hordes of Japanese. There was a fascinating exhibition of old (European) maps of China. Superb Chinese pen and wash paintings. The draughtsmanship is superb, but they hadn't mastered perspective and everything looks like an isometric projection.

Then caught a 'bus to Shilin MRT and after a walk round the town off North again, ending up at Hsin Pei Tou (that's the old Romanisation - Wade? - I can't cope with the new Romanisation they now use which is similar to, but not identical with, mainland China). Walk round the park, deafened by cicadas.

Then back to the city, change and out to Lungshan Temple station to look at, you've guessed, Lung Shan Temple. It always amazes me how the Buddhist/Confucian temples combine devotion with crowds of people walking and talking everywhere. But it works and I find such places very spiritual. Had a walk to look at another station (Wanhua) then further South to explore another district, then on a branch line across to Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall.

The Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall is is a huge marble building that would serve an emperor with a large statue guarded by two soldiers. Underneath, a huge museum showing features of the man's life (including his two bullet-proof 'Caddys' and the myriad decorations awarded by Nationalist China - no surprise - and all sorts of European, Middle Eastern, African and South American countries). I need to learn more about the convoluted history of the Nationalist Movement and Taiwan. Sadly, the gift shop there had got lots of tacky souvenirs but no books! Outside, on the huge parade ground, two school marching bands were practising, more or less alternately. The one was particularly good - I enjoyed that.

Getting tired by now, but determined to check out one remaining MRT line. Very interesting: driverless, fully overhead, rubber tyred with side rails for steering, 4-coach trains built by GEC Alsthom in 1992. By now getting really tired and the light's gone, so abandon walk to Taipei 101 (still the world's tallest building, I think) and return to hotel. Just had their buffet dinner (fine apart from the Japanese diners - do you see a pattern emerging?). This will probably be my last message from abroad - at 6am tomorrow I head to the airport for the long journey home. I intend to send a postscript when I'm home, so that y'all know I'm back.

My photgraphs of Taipei are at Taipei.

Well, I had to get up early but the First Class lounge at Chiang Kai Shek Airport nearly makes up for that. Yamaha player piano tinkling in one corner, a fairly full breakfast service in another corner and four swish internet machines (Sampo computers? Never heard of 'em) where I am. It's 7.25am, we board in an hour.

Twelve days of contrasts - partly engineered, partly 'cos that's the way the world is. Ho Chi Minh City was more cosmopolitan and less French than I expected, 'though the French influence is there. They spent ages trying to get rid of the French (who were financially aided by USA in the latter stages) and then the Americans hit them. The domino theory was in vogue - if Vietnam becomes communist, the whole of South East Asia will fall. The damage done was immense and the use of defoliants like Agent Orange leaves a legacy with ongoing impact. HCM City teems, like Bangkok. The usual story of country folk attracted to the big city by the (relatively) big bucks. Visiting the Mekong was a wonderful contrast - the regular flooding as the snow melts on the Himalayas makes the area very fertile - up to three rice crops a year (other areas can struggle to make one) and a more laid back way of life. Mind you, I got some nasty insect bites which were painful for a time.

Cambodia was a delight. I'd like to go back and see more. The people are friendly and struggling to improve their situation. I only saw the countryside. Again, they are suffering from a long drawn out civil war in which USA played a dubious role. Large areas of the country are still mined and, on average, two people a day are injured by mines going off. The sheer scale and sophistication of the ancient Khymer culture was an eye-opener. They achieved feats of civil engineering on a scale we'd have trouble duplicating today. And the interplay of Buddhist and Hindu belief was interesting. It was very hot and I got heat rashes all over which were a bit troublesome.

Bangkok I've always liked and I enjoyed the Oriental. The level of service is excellent. For instance, they pour your tea for you and, as you drink it, come back to top it up. They also address you by name, which is a good trick (particularly when I'm sure all Westerners look the same to them: ha ha). If you approach a lift and there's staff around, they rush to press the call button for you. One lobby porter would call the lift, hold the door for you and greet you by name. On entering the lift, you'd find he'd reached round and pressed your correct floor button as well! I enjoyed the water travel - they take their river seriously and I found it fascinating just how much traffic there is. The mass transit is convenient and gives an excuse for people-watching without being too obvious. There are an awful lot of Westerners in Bangkok.

After a while, I fell in love with Taiwan again. The city teems, just like Bangkok, and the myriad small businesses in the ground floor front of most buildings or stalls on the pavement is similar. But the culture is somewhat different. I don't know how far politics is responsible for those differences. I found it odd that Dr. Sun Yet Sen is revered both in communist China and Taiwan (Chiang Kai Chek was an aide to the doctor initially). At first, the West's approach was plucky little Taiwan, holding firm against the communist hordes - that was certainly the case when I was here before and America was piling money into Taiwan manufacturing. But now, Taiwan is an embarassment as we try to cosy up to the mainland for trade reasons or realpolitik. The World Trade Organisation has just published its 6-monthly directory of representatives after a three year delay in which China wrangled over how the Taiwanese delegates should be titled. The recent edition uses a compromise formula which has pleased no one. Oh, I nearly forgot, having a wonderful time, wish you were here.

Saturday, 2-Jul-2005:

As promised, my final message to confirm back safe and well. The flight back on Thursday was good but long. 7,500 miles with a short stop at Bangkok. Watched films, read, slept and ate. We would have been right time into Heathrow if we'd not been 'stacked' for half an hour. Baggage, immigration and customs was painless so I was soon on my way back by road arriving 10.45pm. Slept well, up early Friday. Just as well, 'cos I had an all day meeting (here, fortunately). Friday evening I went very tired but after another night's sleep I'm not too bad today (Saturday) apart from some backpain. Now, I'd better start planning again - so many countries, so little time!

Christmas 2006

Christmas this year was a little quieter but I managed to catch up with a number of friends (photos at Family and Friends). We had some severe rainstorms and fierce winds but, once the wind dropped, it wasn't cold.

On most preserved railways, the 'Santa Specials' in December are a major source of revenue and I had a couple of days driving 'Royal Pioneer' at Peak Rail (photos at Peak Rail).

This year, the Battlefield Line had B1 'Mayflower' on the 'Santa' trains (photo above) but this immaculate locomotive came with its own crew so I didn't have the opportunity to work on the engine but did manage a round trip on the footplate (more photos at Mayflower).

Best wishes to all my friends for a happy and peaceful 2007.

The Jelly

Ann decided to make me an 'Engine Jelly' for my last birthday (don't ask) and, after I'd added a little decoration, I took this photograph. At first, the prototype appeared to be an American-style 0-4-2 but the size of the trailing wheels convinced me that it is, in fact, a 4-2-0. What appears to be a coupling rod must be outside framing on the leading truck. The absence of a connecting rod on the large driving wheel suggests inside cylinders. The generous American loading gauge allows the footplate to be pitched high enough to accommodate a cranked driving axle under the cab. But such a design must have been a rough rider once the engine was run-down. Or perhaps I should get out more?

Hong Kong, 2004

In November, 2004 my friend Rita was examining students in Hong Kong. I agreed to go out for a long weekend so that we could spend some time together. The Air France flight out was not an unqualified success - they managed to lose my luggage at Charles de Gaulle and it arrived in Hong Kong in time for me to bring it back again! I arrived on Friday, 26th November 2004 and used the new airport railway to get into Hong Kong, followed by a free bus to get to my hotel. I'd decided to stay in the old part of the Peninsula Hotel, although the views are more spectacular in the new tower block (which boasts a helipad on top).

On Saturday, 27th November it wasn't long before Rita and I were making the classic trip across the harbour to Hong Kong Island on the Star Ferry. I know there are lots of alternatives these days but to me the Star Ferry means Hong Kong.

Then we went to Macau, deciding that the hydrofoil was the best option. To make good use of our limited time in Macau, we hired a taxi to take us around. Macau was, of course, a Portuguese colony and it still has a rather different 'feel' to Hong Kong. The various islands are linked by bridges to a small enclave on the mainland, where there is a border with China 'proper'. Its economy is sustained by legalised gambling. Large numbers of Chinese travel to Macau to play the Casino. All too soon, it was back to Hong Kong by hydrofoil and an evening meal in the Peninsula.

We planned an even more ambitious trip for Sunday 28th November - to Guanzhaou (Canton) in China. We were taken to the Hung Hom terminal of the famous Kowloon Canton Railway to catch the express electric train through the former New Territories to our destination. We formed part of a small group in the charge of a guide who sorted all the formalities of admission to China. The pace of building all along the route was staggering. On arrival, we joined a tour bus for a trip around the city which included a visit to the massive hall dedicated to Dr. Sun Yat Sen and an old temple. Back on the bus, we headed South by motorway to a 'country park' overlooking the Pearl River. The 'country park' includes a number of temples which do a brisk business in what one imagines is a rather uneasy partnership with the communist regime. It was a beautiful place and a joyful place and it was intriguing to glimpse how faithful many people have remained to the old beliefs, whilst also embracing communism. Another lengthly bus trip returned us to Guanzhaou for our train back to Hong Kong. A tiring but fascinating day.

On Monday, 29th November my friend Rita was back at work, so I'd promised myself a trip to one of the 'outer islands'. The Star Ferry took me to Hong Kong Island and a walk took me to the Ferry Terminal for the Outer Islands. There are a variety of destinations served by conventional and fast ferries. I decided on the conventional ferry 'Xin Chao'. These ferries carry a fair amount of wheeled-on or carried on cargo. There was also a fairly excited school party. We pulled away from the dock and slowly sailed by the improbable-looking skyline of Honk Kong Island, all skyscrapers and mountain, threading our way through a variety of water traffic from hydrofoils to sampans. As the skyscrapers fell behind, we passed various small islands, mountainous and lush and passed through the 'roads' where numerous large ships waited their turn in the huge container port at Hong Kong.

In less than an hour, we were docking at my chosen island (sorry, I've currently mislaid the name) and I disembarked at a small fishing town, obviously Chinese but as different from the high rise of Hong Kong as you could imagine. I walked through the town to discover a beautiful, sandy and deserted beach. The quiet was briefly disturbed by the school party from the ferry, happily marching to some sort of camp a little further on. Then I explored more of the town and docks, watching the coming and going of various boats. The arrival of a small ferry proved too much of a temptation and I took it, not knowing the destination which proved to be Lantau Island. We had a wonderful cruise in the late afternoon and I took the 'arty shot' which accompanies this post. On arrival at Lantau, I was lost for a while, before discovering that the ferries back to Hong Kong left from a completely different ferry terminal about 3/4 mile away. And so, tired but happy, I was whisked back to the bustle of Hong Kong on a large, fast catamaran.

Of course, I fitted in other explorations by the Hong Kong Mass Transit subway system and by tram before I had to return to the airport for my flight home.

More photographs here.

The Trials of Sam

As part of the engineering acceptance process, 'Sam' was steamed on 27th December 2006. After boiler filling and all checks, the fire was started with dry wood, adding smokeless fuel once a reasonable fire was established. Steaming time was significantly reduced by feeding the blower ring temporarily from a source of compressed air. Whilst working pressure was being obtained, the locomotive was examined and oiled. Once in steam, various tests were carried out on the performance of the boiler and locomotive. Alistair, Jan and Alan were on hand and we are grateful to Ted for the facilities provided.

Toronto, 2004

Back in July 2004, my friend Rita wanted to visit her daughter, Liz, in Canada, and I accompanied her. It was my first trip to Canada, the first time I'd flown Air Transat. I was impressed by both the country and the airline. I only got to see Toronto and its environs, plus a trip we made through the wine country to Niagara to see the falls, but that was enough to make me want to go back. Toronto is a cosmopolitan city with over 80 ethnic groups, speaking 100 languages and I found the residents very friendly. Once I'd worked out how the streetcar system worked, I was able to get around by "Riding the Rocket", as Toronto Transport Commission markets the tram and subway system. The subway is underground in the city but on the surface as you leave downtown and I used it as much as possible. I also explored parts of the commuter train system. I stayed at trendy 'Drake Hotel' on Queen Street West, midway between the city centre and the house where Liz and her partner Jen were then living, with Jen's father Ben staying in the basement flat.

We made sure of a trip by road to Niagara, taking the 'pretty route' through the wine-making area, stopping at one of the wineries for lunch and a wine tasting. As expected, Niagara is commercial and dedicated to the tourists who flock to look at the falls. To my surprise, I was not offended as you can just walk along the road to a low wall giving a close view of the Canadian Falls without paying anybody. Our time was limited but we decided to go on a trip boat. This involved a walk downstream to where a steep path leads down to a dock at water level. A series of tough little ferry boats, called 'Maid of the Mist' then 'I', 'II' and so on, take you upstream, past the American Falls and up close to the foot of the Canadian Falls. Everybody was issued with a plastic mac and, as we approached the Falls, the effect was not so much disappearing into a mist spray, rather having a fire hose turned on you. But everyone seemed to accept this with good humour and the effect of looking up at the thundering wall of water was truly 'awesome'. We disembarked rather damp but thrilled with the experience. Returning to Toronto, we stopped at a 'Diner' set in a clearing in a forested area - an idyllic, tranquil spot.

Next morning, I took the streetcar and Metro to Sheppard & Leslie Metro station, then walked to the nearest 'GO Train' (commuter train) station for a trip back to Toronto. The train was 'push-pull' with a small driving cab in the leading end of the first double-deck car of the set and a massive General Electric diesel-electric locomotive propelling from the rear. Seeing me taking photographs, the driver very kindly invited me into the cab for the journey back to Toronto Union Station.

The first time we visited the CN Tower, we found the queues daunting so instead booked lunch for the following day when the queues were even longer but the lunch reservation gave us immediate access to the express elevator to the revolving restaurant 1,150 feet above the ground. We enjoyed an excellent lunch with friendly, attentive service and, since the restaurant was only about half full, there was no hurry to leave. The restaurant makes a complete revolution in 72 minutes, giving panoramic views of the city and lots of photographic opportunities. We checked out the windy outdoor observation deck and stood on the glass floor, both 1,122 feet above the ground, but the numbers of visitors discouraged me from standing in line to catch the elevator to the Sky Pod at 1,465 feet above ground.

Returning to ground level, we looked at the outside of a preserved engine shed, a typical 'roundhouse' with concrete coaling plant alongside. Part of the building has been taken over by the 'Steam Whistle Brewery' which produces a popular premium beer. We toured the plant, all stainless steel and shiny, enjoying an informative commentary from one of the young guides. The rest of the roundhouse is not open to the public but is reputed to house a number of preserved steam locomotives.

I established the pattern of rising early and going downtown on the streetcar, each day exploring a different part of Toronto using various streetcar and subway lines, usually taking in a trip on one of the commuter trains before joining Rita and Liz for the rest of the day. My friends found this behaviour odd, but it enabled me to find out a little about the city and look at the public transport systems as well. One day Rita, Liz and I took a trip on Lake Ontario on a modern sailing ship - another great way to view the city. Another day, Ben and I tried out a preserved cargo ship which also gives trips on the Lake. Although we were under sail for part of this trip, most of it was on the auxiliary engine.

In an attempt to convince my friends I was not a complete 'anorak', on my last day I made an early morning trip to Toronto Island, set in Lake Ontario just offshore of downtown Toronto, to take 'arty' photographs of Canada Geese flying low over the lake against the rising sun. Toronto Island is a nature reserve and recreational site, about 4.5 miles long, linked to the city by three ferry routes. I turned up at the dock bright and early, to find the place deserted. Eventually, I found one employee who said he didn't think the ferries started so early on a Saturday. A ferry arrived and enquiries were made - yes, they'd take me. Another panic - all the ticket machines were locked! The employee waved me aboard with a laconic "You're one lucky lady - you get to go for free!". There was only one other passenger and when we docked on the island, he was met by a fire truck, as he was apparently one of the island's firemen! Some people live or stay on the island, but it was pretty quiet and I was able to take some nature photographs. Halfway along the island, I saw another ferry at the second dock, but I'd determined to carry on to the third dock at the far end of the island. When the ferry arrived, it was the 'Ongiara' - the ferry I'd come over on. The deck hand welcomed me aboard with "You're hard to get rid of!"

It was a great trip and I hope to return to see more of Canada.

So where are all these photographs? At the time, I was still using my trusty Canon EOS with real film and I've not yet had the pictures scanned in, but they'll be posted as soon as possible.

You can find the pictures I've so far scanned here and pictures of railways, subway and streetcars appear in a number of sets in the collection Present-day Railways (Overseas).

Review of the Year, 2006

Well, it's conventional at this time of year to summarise the high spots of the year. Trouble is, as I get older, it's hard to remember earlier than last Wednesday (although odd experiences when I was about nine stand out in stark clarity). The holiday in February was definitely a high spot. Just imagine, Mexico, Ecuador, Galapagos, Chile, French Polynesia, Australia and India! The photograph above shows blue skies over the old British-built prison in Fremantle, Western Australia. For more details, refer to my travel post on this trip here).

Returning to work, 2006 became quite manic, so this took up a lot of my energy. But there was still a little time for engine driving at Peak Rail ('Royal Pioneer', technical photos here), The Battlefield Line (mainly 'Thomas the Tank' events, technical photos here) and Manchester Museum of Science and Industry ('Planet' replica, technical photos at here).

In August, I attended the annual 'Lionsmeet' event in Southport, where live steam models of 'Lion' compete (photos here). As far as the real 'Lion' is concerned, it's been a quiet year. Although I remain a member of the Old Locomotive Committee (the locomotive's supporters group), I've had to give up the task of producing the group's newsletter 'Lionsheart' because of the various demands on my time. (technical photos of 'Lion' are here).

I've also had to give up my roles on the 2-foot gauge Derbyshire Dales Railway where I've been helping for the last few years (photographs here).

During 2006, I became involved in the project to bring a 2-foot gauge live-steam locomotive, 'Phoenix', from Australia to the United Kingdom. Well, the locomotive has arrived and engineering acceptance is proceeding (more details here).

And so we approach Christmas, full of thankfulness for the good things this year and hope for the year to come.

West Bridgford Christmas Market

West Bridgford is hard by a well-known cricket ground in Nottingham. This year, there was a Christmas Market to co-incide with the switching-on of the Christmas Lights (thank goodness, they still celebrate Christmas and not some strange 'Winterval').

It had been arranged that the 2-foot gauge steam locomotive 'Sam' would make an appearance although not, sadly, in steam. Well, it took a lot of effort by a lot of people (thanks to all of them) but it happened. As the day wore on, more and more children came to visit 'Sam' and climb into the cab. 'Sam' had a big working headlight and a cheery face but the best part was being able to ring the bell! British steam engines didn't normally carry a bell but it's still mandatory even with modern diesels in some countries.

Malcolm and Anne Sales of Buttercross Photography were on hand to produce souvenir photographs - more details at Buttercross Photography.< /p>

There was a large Craft Fair organised by Alan Woolley. Alan revealed some details of Sam's Secret Fudge Mine. It appears that fudge is mined at a secret location and Sam is sometimes employed in drawing out the freshly-mined fudge. To prove the point, he had a model of the actual fudge mine (although its precise location remains a closely-guarded secret). On demand, a 'G' scale model of Sam would emerge from the mine entrance hauling a single wagon loaded with fudge. I tried the fudge, which was available in various flavours (presumably according to the strata it was extracted from) and confirm it was good. I'm sorry I couldn't photograph the model but Alan is anxious that the details of the mine remain secret.

More photographs of Sam's Big Day Out at West Bridgford.

Sam

'Phoenix' is a 2-foot gauge live steam locomotive built by Keith Watson and Keith Tingle in Australia in 2001. It has recently been imported into the U.K. and is currently undergoing engineering acceptance with a view to visiting suitable railways here.

I've been involved in standard gauge preservation for over twenty years but a few years ago I also joined the 2-foot gauge Derbyshire Dales Railway and these smaller gauges are starting to grow on me. I'm old enough to remember when most trains were steam trains and I think myself fortunate for that experience. But, as time goes on, people who remember these steam days become fewer. If the preservation movement is to continue, we need to bring in younger people with no direct experience of steam trains. Miniature railways and narrow-gauge lines are a good way of introducing younger children to the excitement of railways because, being smaller, the locomotives are less intimidating.

'Phoenix' is a locomotive with great character which appeals to adults and children alike. It's based on the small H.K. Porter design of contractors and mining locomotives built in large numbers in the United States in various sizes and various gauges. To make life easier for our younger friends, 'Phoenix' has been informally called 'Sam the Steam Engine', or simply 'Sam'.

You can find more photgraphs of 'Sam' at 'Phoenix'.

Round The World Three

With my enthusiasm for the intensive tours undimmed, I set out once again in February 2006:-

Mon 6 Feb 2006:

The adventure begins (again). Monday, noon, I'm in the BA lounge at Terminal 4, Heathrow awaiting my first flight to Mexico. What lies in store? Good things, I hope.

Tue 7 Feb:

Well, I haven’t seen much yet. Flight was uneventful (747-400B). Haven’t been in BA ‘Club World’ before. Reclining seats in pairs but one faces forward, one back, like a love seat, with a low divider. There’s a curious ‘ladies fan’ which deploys above the divider for greater privacy. Electric recline and lumbar support and a tip-up footstool to support the legs. Swinging arm with individual screen. 14 ch audio, 18ch video plus map of journey. Video apparently from tape (so not on demand). Watched the Judi Dench on the Windmill (recommended) and The Curse of the Wererabbit and Grand Day Out from Aardman (excellent). Gave up on the SF The Island, 'cos I found it dire. Cabin attendants excellent but PA announcements from the Chief Purser in the patronising schoolmaster tones I always associate with BA.

Arrived on time - very long walk to immigration. I hustled to get somewhere near the front - by the time I came through immigration there was a huge queue behind. My checked bag was waiting in reclaim. Customs use a system where you press a button and the system decides randomly whether you’ll be subject to inspection. Green! Into the arrivals hall, faced with a long line of touts and greeters holding a variety of signs. Quickly find a very well-dressed man (white shirt, tie, dark suit) from the tour company and soon led to a very smart black limousine with an equally well dressed driver.

Already dark, we take a main road across the city (3 lanes each way plus 2 local lanes each way and in the middle a metro line part of the way: traffic heavy but all moving about 50 mph).

Casa Vieja is a boutique hotel built in the hacienda style in the residential and designer shop area of Pulanco. Splendid suite for me with kitchen area and dining bar, lounge area with hifi and large television (not switched on by me), massive bed and bathroom, all ethnic and carved wood. Very comfortable, very quiet. Light breakfast was in the terrace restaurant and then I found out the BBC forecast was a bit out cos this morning its overcast and none to warm. Have to stop as being picked up to have a look at the city. Note to English teachers: sorry about the lack of apostrophes, brackets and other sundry punctuation. I can{t cope with this Spanish keyboard!

Wed 8th:

A fairly eventful day. Guide arrived (late) then we waited for car to arrive (later) then we went for petrol! And off into the hubbub which is Mexico City. It`s far less American than I expected, probably scruffier than I expected, and there`s less English spoken than I expected (and a lot of the English is so oddly pronounced that it sounds like Espanol - but it`s still better than my attempts at Espanol/Castillano as they varously call it).

There is a quite huge park at Chapultepec (near Polanca) - a colonial legacy. It contains some fine museums which there's not time to visit. We went downtown, parked and looked at some of the buildings from the colonial era and a number of churches.

I divide the history, crudely, into 3 phases - the archaic, the colonial and the modern. Mexico seems a dizzying amalgam of all three. The ancients believed where they found an eagle with a snake in it's mouth, that was the site for their city. Tough break. They found the eagle in the middle of a swamp but, undaunted, they set about reclaiming the land which has become Mexico City. So the city is sinking. Fast. And is subject to periodic earthquakes. So a lot of old buildings are lost and many of the remaining ones are a bit warped.

What's left gives a fascinating insight into the comfortable lives once enjoyed by the Spanish. The whole of Mexico was divided into 200 huge fiefdoms. Some of the palaces remain adapted to more modern purposes - government, museums etc. Construction is a mix of limestone and volcanic rock, cut to brick shape but simply stacked to form walls. It doesn`t look substantial, but many such buildings, like the early churches, have survived well.

The sun came out and it warmed up and all was well. A brief ride on the Metro, more churches then back to the car. On the way out of the city, we stopped at the Shrine of Guadaloupe - a place to which devout pilgrims make their way each year. There`s an underground car park, a covered market selling every type of religious artefact you could imagine. The roof of the car park forms a parade ground, with stations of the cross, a modern bell tower and a modern church (a bit like Paddy's Wigwam in Liverpool). There is a convent and the original church, twisted like an old woman and propped up with scaffolding and concrete. Inside the church (services seem more or less continuous and people come and go all the time) is displayed the allegedly miraculous picture of the Virgin Mary (depicted in Spanish green not blue). To cope with the numbers of faithful trying to look, there are four moving pavements in front of the picture - you get carried right to left, change pavement, come back left to right. If you haven`t finshed your devotion, you go round again.

The strength of the faith in Mexico is remarkable. I didn`t realise the last Pope visited Mexico 5 times (and his Popemobile is on display!). Perhaps 50% average unemployment and endemic corruption in government has played a part. It`s a turbulent history. The blood-minded Aztecs followed by the equally bloody Spanish, attempts at indepence around 1800, the loss of the Northern Lands to America around 1840 and so many polical upsets since. There`s a hotly-contested election next month - almost every wall seems to be sign-written (quite professionally) with political slogans "Firm in our beliefs and policies", "My priority is the women and children".

Then North East on American style highways and toll roads to Teatihuacan. This is a huge ruined city, over 2000 years old, rivalling some of the Egyptian structures. The largest pyramid (yes, I climbed it) almost equals the volume of the Great Pyramid at Giza. State of preservation not too good (old cities are convenient sources of building materials) but the scale and layout are impressive. There's a smaller pyramid commanding magnificent views along the 2km processional highway but we ran out of time, so I only climbed part the way up (guide had insisted we had late lunch first - I had tortilla soup, quite adventurous for me).

Then back to Mexico city, get petrol, carry on East to Tlaxcala, arriving 9.30pm. Catastrophe! The hotel say they have no rooms. Guide undertakes many phone calls, which I can`t follow but eventually accepts my suggestion - find another hotel for me so I can get to bed; post-mortems later. Guide`s boss insists on speaking to me by 'phone to apologise. He alleges it's the hotel's fault. Oddly, I think he may be right (Ruan, please investigate and credit as appropriate) We find a not-very-visually attractive hotel up the road (Hotel Jeroc`s Plaza, website www.jerocs.com.mx) and I pay for my room. Only downside, the room is freezing and there`s no hot water but at least I can get some sleep.

Thu 9th:

Still cold when I get up but by now (09:15) the sun`s out and it`s starting to warm up. I enjoyed a good buffet breakfast and am ready for action. Soon (I hope) the guide will pick me up (he was booked in a motel, apparently) and it's another day sightseeing then back to the first night's hotel, which was excellent - it`s website www.casavieja.com. My initial feeling not-to-good has changed into a cold, with runny nose and sneezing but, oddly enough, I feel much better. So - on with the action!

Picked up from hotel on time and we go to look at centre of Tlaxcala. This town preserves its colonial appearance with a central square with bandstand flanked by attractive buildings including a former viceroy's palace, now the town hall. This town and state allied with Cortez and to this day is something of a pariah in some circles. For a different reason, I think the passions must be similar to Protestant-Catholic in Ireland, where the Battle of the Boyne is talked about as if it happened last week.

Of course, we took in a couple of Churches, Parroquia de San Jose and Sanctuario de Nuestra Senora de Ocotlan before driving into the sticks through a series of villages to Cacaxtla (kah-KASH-tla), the hilltop ruins of the city of the Olmecs dating from 700-900 AD. Built on an impressive huge, low flat pyramid, the walls of the various houses only rise a few feet but colourful wall paintings survive. To preserve these, a huge open-sided roof has been erected overall. It's a magical place commanding marvellous views of the surrounding countryside.

Now, although my guide had excellent historical knowledge, last Saturday I'd found a 15 pound guide book on Mexico for 3 pounds (Kismet, I thought) and this has been my constant guide. "Are we going to Xochitencatl?" I ask. "No, it's not on the tour" he replies. Transpires he's never been there but, after the cock-up last night agrees to go (after 'phoning his boss). Only a few miles from first site, hilltop site (pronounced so-chee-TEN-cahtl) is earlier and dedicated to fertility. Super museum of artifacts, including tiny clay models of pregnant women with cut-away wombs showing the baby. There's the Spiral Pyramid, originally climbed by a spiral path (now there's a steel staircase), a low pyramid called Basement of the Volcanoes and a large flat-topped pyramid with even more spectacular view. Although it was hot and hazy the recently-active volcano of Popocatepetal was clearly visible. Magnificent.

Then we made our way back through tiny villages (horse drawn carts still in use) to the main highway for the around 90 mile return to Mexico City. Pass a number of heavily decorated and loaded pick-ups and lorries heading to the Shrine of Guadaloupe with pilgrims. Also pass a number of backpacking pedestrians walking to the Shrine as a devotion. Amazing! A warm welcome back at the Hotel Casa Vieja. It's a super little hotel and very friendly.

Last evening? Thought I'd better check out the Metro properly. It's a huge, heavily-used system (the website has a good description). Found the local metro station OK and with two changes got to the airport. The second train was having problems and kept doing emergency stops, apparently because of a door indication fault. If you're right at the front, you can check the view through a darkened window. At one stage, the fault annunciator panel was lit up like a Christmas tree!

Looked at the domestic air terminal and the huge models of the airport extensions. Like Heathrow, Mexico has two parallel runways used by international and domestic (5/23 Left and Right). Returned home a different route with 3 changes. Blew a whole 25p on the trip! One route has more modern rolling stock (LED headlights and destination boards, flat screen alarm annunciator and speedometer). The trains are rubber-tyred (like Paris) and do 0-60 in under 12 seconds (that's kpm, not mph!). Interesting how closely trains are allowed to follow. At one point, we stopped at a red only one train's length behind the preceding train.

So, now it's morning. Breakfast, then I fly to Miami, change, and south to Quito (Equador). More when I can.

My photographs of Mexico are here.

Thu 9th:

After a good breakfast I`ve got as far as the American Airlines lounge, checked in for Miami then transfer to Quito. I really liked Mexico. The people are friendly and seem considerate. I hadn`t properly realised what a turbulent history the country had had, I`m ashamed to say. They can clearly be a passionate people - the obvious religious devotion testifies to that. I somehow thought that they`d benefited from proximity to the USA, but I don`t see that that's the case. I think they deserve better than they seem to be getting. Bright sun here and the day warming up nicely.

Thu 9th (again):

Fairly uneventful day travelling. Mexico airport is big and busy but the atmosphere is relaxed and helpful. Miami airport is big and busy and the people seem stressed and brusque. I didn´t enjoy transiting. You now have to complete a Visa Waiver form and Customs form, go through immigration (both forefingers fingerprinted and photograph taken) then go through a detailed security search of your handbaggage and pass through a metal detector, just to get back airside where you started! The flights to and from Miami were American Airlines (737 in, 757 out) but the attendants were friendly and the catering good.

We came into Miami from the West over the bottom of Florida and a big town (not yet identified). The modern residential areas are served by a square grid of roads creating 'neighbourhoods'. Each neighbourhood is pierced by an artistic pattern of curving roads, many cul-de-sacs, making the area ´interesting´. Various designs of house cluster around these roads. Viewed from above it's a surreal patchwork quilt of lines and colours, looking like abstract art for the Gods to enjoy. There was a similar area coming into Miami. I was puzzled by the number of bright blue roofs but, on finals at lower altitude, it appears to be industrial-grade polystyrene, presumably temporary repairs after hurricane damage. There's a desolate swampland coming into Miami: first a wet, pock-marked barren landscape, giving way to a striated area, presumably where there's more water flow. A few dead straight highways pierce this area. Then there´s water control canals, highways and the city itself, mainly low rise except for a clump of skyscrapers downtown and high rise condos on the beach. Don't think it's my sort of town.

Then flew South, over Cuba, Panama, arriving on time Quito about 9pm. Efficient immigration, baggage and customs, soon found my man in the arrival hall - a very pleasant well-spoken young man from the local operators, Metropolitan Touring. During the 20 minute drive to the hotel, he confirmed all the particulars, gave me maps, contact numbers, explained the arrangements. I'm most impressed with the arrangements so far.

Although Quito (pop 1.8 million) is part modern, I'm staying in the Colonial Quarter built by the Spanish, very much to my taste. The hotel is impressive. I'm in the older part of the hotel facing the street (looks as if they've extended at the back in mock-old style but quite well done). My room has a lounge then a wooden open staircase up to a mezzanine with bed and bathroom. Very attractive. You can check it out here. Well, I'd better go get some sleep now.

My photographs of Quito are here.

Mon 13th:

About to fly to Santiago. Just wrote a long email: kept saving as draft but, somehow, has erased itself. Precis follows (if it doesn't erase). Having sent email Sat from ship, dinner then visit bridge. Very interesting. We're now on the 154 NM trip to Urbina Bay. I'd included lots of comments on evolution far too boring to repeat. Bed. Wake at 3.30am, watch moon. At 6am join others on sundeck for sunrise. Claudia from Seattle leaves camera behind (with their pics) and it never turns up. Breakfast, boat ride to the shelving dark sand beach at Urbina Bay. Coast for about 4km rose 13 ft in 1954. Easy hike finds 1 giant tortoise, many land iguanas and numerous birds & plants. Return to beach people variously sunbathe paddle swim snorkel. Return to ship which cruises to Fernandina. Naturalist gives talk on Darwin then lunch with Ecuadoean dishes. Then last trip to Espinoza. Young island with major earthquake activity 500 yrs ago. Black alien landscape of solidified lava. Although little vegetation, island teems with fauna. Boat trip along coast finds birds, marine iguanas and 1 Galapagos penguin. We land and walk across this strange, fissured landscape amongst sea lions, thousands of technicolour Sally Lightfoot crabs ... more follows.

Tue 14th:

I forgot to reset my watch in Quito, so I´d an hour less than I thought to send my e-mail! The flight was about to leave sans Jan. Hence my crash ending last time. Try again. Having sent email Sat from ship, dinner then visit bridge. V interesting. On 154 NM trip to Urbina Bay. I'd included lots of comments on evolution far too boring to repeat. Bed. Wake at 3.30 watch moon. At 6 join others on sundeck for sunrise. Claudia from Seattle leaves camera behind (with their pics) and it never turns up. Breakfast, boat ride to the shelving dark sand beach at Urbina Bay. Coast for abt 4km rose 13 ft in 1954. Easy hike finds 1 giant tortoise, many land iguanas and numerous birds & plants. Return to beach people variously sunbathe, paddle, swim, or snorkel. Return to ship which cruises to Fernandina. Naturalist gives talk on Darwin then lunch with Ecuadorean dishes. Then last trip to Espinoza. Young island with major earthquake activity 500 yrs ago. Black alien landscape of solidified lava. Although little vegetation, island teems with fauna. Boat trip along coast finds birds, marine iguanas and 1 Galapagos penguin. We land and walk across this strange, fissured landscape amongst sea lions, thousands of technicolour Sally Lightfoot crabs and hundreds of marine iguanas. It´s iguana nesting season & iguanas are digging burrows in the gravelly areas. Birds are nesting too, but they all ignore the parties of tourists! All of the guides have excellent knowledge & give lots of fascinating facts about geology & wildlife. Heavy rain for a time. Back to ship, briefing, Darwin quiz the Darwin´s birthday dinner, complete with "Happy Birthday" & b´day cake. During dinner, the ship starts North to go around the ´top´ of Isabela en route Baltra. We cross the equator heading North about 11 pm with me on the bridge watching the GPS count down the seconds of arc to the magic point. We crossed a second time heading South about 2 am whilst I was asleep. We all get a certificate signed by the captain to celebrate "crossing the line". Up early, breakfast, goodbye to ship & crew. We´ve anchored about 1m offshore this time, because of rocks & shallows. So we have a long boat ride, taking a buoyed channel to a small ferry dock. We take a private bus over the main road across Santa Cruz island to the town of Punta Ayora and then on to Charles Darwin Research Centre. Here numerous nations run various conservation programs, each with their own lab. We look at the giant tortoise program. They collect eggs, artificially incubate, feed in a small corral then condition them for the wild in a rugged area with limited food to make them forage. Then they chip them & turn ´em loose. Bus takes us back to the ferry terminal, catch the ferry (about 40 pax with an outboard) and make the 10 minute crossing to the airport island. Board another bus to the airport across the abandoned WW2 American air force base with derelict buildings & foundations all over the place. Tour company checks us in and then it's an A320 flight back to Quito with 1 stop. Met at airport & we go for a short city tour during a thunderstorm! Stop at Quito´s best bookshop & pick up another Galapagos book & Lonely Planet Chile (which has proved invaluable). Back to airport, check in and that´s where I was last night, in business lounge writing to you. Well, uneventful Lan Chile A320 flight in business class to Santiago. Sleep a bit & arrive about 6 am today. Met efficiently & whisked to the Park Plaza Hotel who have the room available, despite the early check in. What then? Well, my time on this m/c has run out so, best beloved, I´ll tell you next time.

My photographs of Galapagos are here.

Tue 14th:

I`d only has 2 or 3 hours sleep on the plane so I'd intended sleeping on arrival at Santiago but, well, it was sunny, the subway station was only 5 minutes walk so I went to the city's main square lined with colonial buildings and a cathedral. Checked out the main post office. They know how to do Post Offices everywhere but UK. National History Museum was just opening so visited (www.museo.historiconacional.cl) & found it excellent. Cathedral interesting. Then went to check out the railway station (surprise!). Very elegant building with impressive all-over roof nicely adapted for modern use & adjacent to a large bus station & down-market mall. In addition to a few long distance trains, there a local electrified service (overhead electrified). By this time, I'd discovered there was a railway museum in Parque Quinte Normal, not too far from the railway station (but far enough when walking: around 30 Celsius today). The street is full of auto & industrial motor rewind shops: nice but run down. Many buildings converted into small workshops with shop attached - lots of them! Reach the park OK and locate the section with the locos. There`s about 20 steam locos in the open in quite good condition & nicely presented. There`s a few coaches and a station building with a variety of exhibits. Very good & unexpected. Walk across the park to the end of one of 3 Metro lines - miss out the Natural History & Technology museums. Had originally intended to go back to hotel at lunchtime but instead take Metro and walk through a sort of market area to Cerro San Cristobel. This is an improbably looking jagged hill about 800m high with a park on it. Full of Chileans enjoying themselves and quite a few tourists, too. Take the funicular part way up (two stepped coaches on steel rails balancing one another via a cable which pulls them up & down. Views of Santiago are amazing. Somehow, the taller modern buildings don`t seem quite so offensive in this context & there`s still a lot of decent buildings in the city. Then take the telepherique (small cabins suspended from a cable which is driven). You should find details of both modes at www.funicular.cl. The latter is very exciting as it flies over a forest area, climbs & falls following the hill contours, gives views if the city which change from moment to moment and it's one of the longest I`ve been on. Finally, I climb to the tallest bit with a statue of the Virgin. Sadly, she has to share her commanding position with a number of radio masts hosting a remarkable variety of antenna! Return to hotel by Metro for shower and change. Teatime now. Intend more Metro travel but find ticket doesn`t work. Talking to ticket inspector (talking is a bit strong - there`s not much English spoken where I`ve been but I`ve managed with a bit of mutual incomprehension. At least Spanish is fairly easy to read) realise it`s 10 more minutes before my cheap tickets are valid again. So have Pepsi & fries at KFC then off to check out the old North Station which is now an arts centre (shades of G-MEX). I also check out one of the older residential areas now much frequented by students & by then I think I`ve seen enough & return to hotel. I know I`ve said it before, but I didn`t expect to like this city but find I`m charmed by it. Yes, there are beggars at Metro entrances but people don`t seem as bad-tempered as where I come from. Cars avoid you rather than run you down (but don`t rely on that). I even had a driver stop for me when I thought he had the right of way. All in all, I`ve had a good day. Oh, and this was the first chance to get some laundry done. Whilst shipboard, I had to wash things myself. OK, but difficult to dry. Tomorrow, late afternoon, I`m supposed to fly to Tahiti. Tomorrow morning? I think I`ll go to the seaside. More reports when I can.

My photographs of Chile are here.

My photographs of the splendid railway museum at Santiago are here.

My railway photographs of Chile (Subway, main line, Valparaiso Metro and Funiculars) are here.

Wed 15th:

I loved Santiago but it´s 125 km from the sea. So this morning I was picked up at 7.30 am for a trip to Valparaiso. There´s a good highway to the airport (3 lanes each way and automatic road pricing using a transponder on the windscreen interrogated by an overhead scanner as you pass. Then, onto a 2-lane each way highway the rest of the way with toll stations. It´s quite rugged & attractive terrain. The highway is a scar on the landscape (like UK) which they improve with huge hoardings up to 50 ft tall mounted on the hills which make our lorry-mounted motorway adverts look positively discreet. And about 30% are lingerie ads! I adored Valparaiso, said to be the most quirky S. American city. It´s an old seaport, not too large (though there´s a big Chilean Navy presence), important for commerce and 1 cruise ship (Discovery) in today. It´s built on hills cascading down to the sea so there are 15 ancient funiculars run by equally ancient staff (owners?) One way trip typically 15p. Well, I only had time to travel on 4 then check out the houses, churches at the top of each hill and walk down again. There´s a flat bit near the sea with main shops - a mixture of very good if tawdry buildings and the frankly nondescript. I found the overall effect absolutely charming - a bit like Liverpool before they started to modernise it. People smile at you a lot. Hundreds of dogs, most in good condition allowed to roam, but most choose to just lie in the middle of pavements - and the surprise is, people walk round 'em without complaint. Most people prefer the modern seaside town of Vina del Mar next door (where rich Santiaguinos keep weekend apartments) 'cos there's a beach and a casino, but I was happy to drive in and out. The old railway has been modernised and electrified and opened 3 mths ago as Metro Valparaiso (but they are 'proper' 2-coach EMU. I managed to get a short ride back from my walk to where the car was parked. Got to go now for the flight to Tahiti - it´s 3.30 pm and hot & sunny.

Thu 16th:

Bonjour, ici Tahiti: Well, we're in the French speaking part of the Pacific. Flight from Santiago was uneventful but over 11 hours! We left (late) about Santiago time in 767 and they served a reasonable lunch/dinner. We landed at Easter Island at dusk, first overflying the island (saw the coastline but didn't identify any 'maui' (the statues). They let the transits off the aircraft so I have set foot on the island though not gone through immigration. There's a rather basic holding area with gift stalls and quite a nice garden outside you can wander in. Some passengers left here, others joined so soon we were away and they served a reasonable dinner (but I didn't have much of it - oh, the bread roll was stale). I slept awhile on both legs of the journey, correcting my watch to Tahiti time. We landed just before 11 pm local and whistled through immigration (they have lanes for 'EU passports' and 'others'). Then we waited about 10 minutes for 7 bags to appear then another 10 minutes before others appeared! Once I'd located mine, it was into the arrivals hall - a bit more leisurely than other places. Each tour company has a white board on wheels and they list on it the passengers they're meeting: good scheme and I found my man. We're feeding many mouths - I booked it through Wexas who booked it with Pacific Destinationz who booked it with the tour company who actually met me who booked the actual service provider! About 25 min drive to Radisson Hotel. Dark, so I didn't see much but round here it's modern. Travelling makes you realise how reinforced concrete has changed our world. The majority of buildings are now a mesh of horizontal and vertical reinforced beams with suitable infill, usually cast in situ. Practical but rarely aesthetically attractive. The Radisson is doubtless the same but the finishes adaopted are to a good standard. There's a central cluster of buildings in pseudo 'Tahitian Village' style then seven agressively modern accommodation blocks, each with four floors of six rooms per floor. The room decor is modern and stylish (and, for once, I don't mean that in a perjorative sense). Very impressive but showing some signs of wear and tear. The room I have has a bedroom area with a huge bed, TV, seating area, wardrobes. Bath/shower, handbasin and w/c form an annexe with no actual separating door. Large patio door leading onto a generously sized balcony forms one wall of the bedroom. The balconies face the sea which is perhaps 100 yds away across the hotel gardens and huge outdoor swimming pool. I can hear the breakers crashing on the beach. The gate to the beach is closed at night and it's not really regarded as a swimming beach so I contented myself with a midnight dip in the pool. (Note to Ruan: Room was booked for Mr & Mrs Ford. No arrangements made for late checkout, standard time is 11 am. I have paid 42 USD for late checkout which is 7 pm but have agreed 9 pm. If I'd wanted the room for the extra 2 hours 'till I'm actually picked up, charge would have been 4 times as much. Is this what you expected or has it gone slightly wrong?) Well, it's nearly 2.30 am now so I'll get some rest before my day trip to the adjacent island Moorea tomorrow.

My photographs of French Polynesia are here.

Thu 16th:

Picked up at 8 am today in heavy rain and taken to the ferry terminal in Papeete. Traffic terrible, just like home! Booked on a 'super cat' for fast ferry crossing of about 20 km to the island of Moorea. Meet Polynesian guide and he picks up a group of 3 Japanese plus a translator (Japanese guy who visited on holiday and decided to stay - a few people do that). My guide is also driver of people carrier so I end up in front with him, rest in the back. The Japanese group were actually nice but had very little English (more than my Japanese). Moorea is small - pop around 15,000. It's also very lush and very beautiful with wooded volcanic mountains inland, narrow coastal strip, lagoon with white sand. The sort of thing you imagine for a tropical island. I was very taken. After a bit the rain eased and the sun came out. We stopped at the fruit juice factory (where they also make 25% liqueurs) then at the jam factory, but there was no great pressure. Moorea is very laid-back. Successful types in Papeete often move to Moorea and commute to work on the super cat ferry. Eventually end up at the re-created Polynesian village. I know, I know, but this one was done a restrained manner and, again, no pressure. We were booked to have lunch here. I had salad (very salty but good) fish (lumps of well-cooked fish in a creamy sauce with tiny potatoes and boiled rice: very good) and coconut ice cream with chocolate cake (excellent). Then they put on a show with 3 boy & 3 girl dancers, music by a trio. My guide is ukelele player and M/C and choreographer. Also he's related to almost everyone we meet. After lunch I walk on the beach and paddle. Normally, the lagoon is calm and shallow, the water clear. By standing still, the small fishes (2 to 4 inches long) would swin close, going between my legs a few times or bumping into my leg! Quite fascinating. Then, we completed our circumnavigation of the island (60 km coast road). All very relaxing. Then back to the dock for the super cat back to Papeete, picked up and returned to the Radisson. Later this evening, I'm being taken to the airport for my flight to Sydney, change, then to Melbourne. Not seen much of Tahiti but definitely decided I prefer the quieter islands like Moorea.

Fri 17th:

It looks as if not all addressees got the message I sent from the ship a few days ago, because of the way their software handled addresses, so I'm sending you a copy now. Apologies if you already got it. (Thanks Ann, for the copy). FOLLOWS A MESSAGE FROM M/N SANTA CRUZ FAX REPLIES TO: 00874 373 5059 11 SHIP'S PHONE 00874 373 5059 10 E-MAIL Replies to: santa.cruz@cruisemail.com Please, indicate guest's name and cabin PLEASE DO NOT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE AS THE PASSENGER DOES NOT WISH TO BE CHARGED FOR INCOMING EMAIL. Friday: rise at 5am, breakfast with 4 others, picked up by Edwin & driver in 4x4 & to airport on main road which has bendy trolleybuses already running. Bus stops are proper enlosed shelters with raised access platforms and platform edge doors which open when a bus is alongside. X-ray checked baggage, get boarding pass, through metal detector & x-ray hand luggage to departure area. One guy from tour operator is to fly with us. But incoming flight is late - departure announced 45 late. At this moment, ladies loo in departure area is closed for repairs to lights so a party of women (including me) have to go back through security to the other loo & then come back in again! Eventually, the 727 arrives (the tri-jet) and, after the arrivals have walked across to the terminal, we make our way to aircraft. Flight full, about 45 min to Guayaquil (pop 2.8m) on the coast. We stay on while pass get off and on and we take fuel. It's raining. 90 min flight to Baltra in Galapagos, 600 miles West. Plastic lunchbox ith quite a good meal (hot mushrooms in sauce with toato & brown bread, yoghurt, bread roll, pineapple jam, small white choc bar. We use most of the runway at Baltra on Santa Cruz island: now sunny. People get off & now we're no more than 2/3 full for 20m flight to San Cristobal. On landing, pay 100 USD entry tax & passport check. 'Santa Cruz' passengers directed to bus (checked baggage taken direct to ship). 5 min drive through small concrete-built town to tiny dock where 4 'Zodiac 5' inflatables wait for passengers (about 14 of us) and luggage. Don lifejackets and cross to 'Santa Cruz'waiting in harbour. Transfer to stairs lowered on port side then check in and crew show cabin location. My master suite (1 of 2) is port side aft with a balcony looking aft - very nice. Then to lunch. People divide onto tables informally - I join a post-grad living in Sydney originally from Basingstoke, a Swedish midwife and her 20-ish daughter Sophie. Ministrone, buffet main course (surprise, I have fish which is excellent) then strawberries and cream. Luggage has now been placed in rooms. Then we have briefing in lounge for afternoon's activities. Snorkelling (for those who do), beach or a boat ride. I go to beach. We're only allowed to walk on sandy area: rules are very strict to preserve the uniqueness of the flora & fauna. In the excitement of going ashore, forgot to take my bag so when it rains get very wet, but it's not cold 'cos we're just on Equator. Sealions basking all over - I nearly fall over one! (you're supposed to keep 2 or 3 m clear and not touch). Bulls can be 200kg. If you stand still, curious but indifferent sealions tend to surround you as they come and go between the sea and beach basking. Get in Zodiac for return. Driver has to idle for a while waiting for sea to calm around the rocks and when he does gun the engine it's quite a ride, the boat flexing and continuous tinkling sound as the corrugated aluminium floor lining also flexes! Rest until the evening talk 'The ECO Moment'. There are 6 qualified naturalists who lead parties on the various shore visits. Cocktails in the lounge including crew introductions by the Dutch cruise director - Captain, Number 2, Radio man, 6 naturalists (one designated chief), barman. There are around 82 guests (capacity 90) from 12 countries. Then to dinner where our lunch-time group are joined by a landscape designer from Seattle with his teacher wife. Then to bed, tired, with the patio door to the balcony open. Awake and it's raining again! Half past midnight we start to move to the island of Espanola (Hood). Engines are twin Sulzer 1620 BHP with a fair bit of noise and vibration. Glad I had the suite - I'd defintely get cabin fever in, for example, an inside cabin with no window! After a few hours cruising we anchor at Punta Suarez, near to other, smaller craft about 300m from shore. Particularly when anchored, the ship tends to roll, giving people an inebriated gait. I can't yet describe the feeling of being so near to wildlife but it is very special.

I've not checked these websites, but they may inform:-
www.metropolitan_touring.com
www.ecuadorable.com (may be same as above)
www.galapagos.org
www.elino.noaa.gov/
www.law.emory.edu/PI/GALAPAGOS/Index.html
www.galapagos-ch.org
www.gct.org.

And Sunday is International Darwin Day! Seems approriate to be here on his birthday. Tie dilation: It's not yet a week since I left home - it seems much longer (in a good way). Saturday: rise at 6, breakfast at 7, Zodiac at 8 to the island for an accompanied walk over lava stone. Rain threatens but never happens - it's a super day. The fauna teems - sealions everywhere, technicolour crabs and lizards, numerous birds. Each guide takes a party of about 12 on a 2K walk over eroded lava rocks. Details will have to wait but it's amazing. Zodiac back to ship. Boat drill at noon. Talk on geology of the islands in lounge. Lunch (fish soup then a buffet where I sampled various things, figs for dessert. We've moved since morning so we now Zodiac to an amazing sealion beach at Gardner Bay. A sealion comes up behind me - I discover their whiskers are hard, like quills. Another comes up and gently 'bites' my leg, not to hurt. It's sometimes difficult to avoid contact. All too soon, take the Zodiac from the beach and rendezvous at sea with a Glass Bottomed Boat to see the fish. At one point, the sea 'boils' with a school of fish. After 30 mins, rendezvous and transfer to Zodiac for a high speed run back to the ship. Collapse. Took ages to type this so I hope it gets through! If anyone wants to reply, do it as the message header above instructs to the ship's e-mail, but I suggest before end of Sunday your time 'cos I leave the boat Monday morning our time. Incidentally, shortly the ship will have normal internet via satellite but, at present, we have this indirect system I'm using.

Sat 18th: G’day!:

Well, I'm starting to feel tired now. The flight didn't leave Tahiti till 2 am and there was a fair time difference with Oz (apart from 'losing' a day crossing the date line). The Air Tahiti Nui service was quite good & the equipment was a very cleam A340. Arrived Sydney about 7.45 am today (Saturday). But getting through immigration, clearing all the luggage through customs, re-checking the luggage and transferring by bus to the domestic terminal all took its toll. Then when the flight landed, the car for me was not apparent. I made some enquiries, tried to phone a contact number without success then, feeling very bleary, opted for a taxi. As I arrived at the hotel, the driver who'd been sent for me phoned to say he couldn't find me. Haven't found out yet what really happened. Hotel announce they won't have a room ready for an hour! It's all good news! Decide to go out while I wait - find subway station within 2 minutes so buy ticket and travel to Flinders Street Station then walk back to hotel looking at sights. Although there are many modern buildings, a lot of decent older buildings remain and I find the place very interesting. Get room - it's very satisfactory (see www.thewindsor.com.au). Then off again by train to South Yarra to see what the 'burbs are like. Then catch a tram to St Kilda to see Port Philip Bay. There's Luna Park - an old fashioned amusement park based on Coney Island - and a decent beach. The docks are on the opposite side of the bay and the QE2 appears to be docked. Then catch a different tram back to city (walking the last bit). One more foray by train to Williamstown, on the side with the docks. Williamstown is an upmarket residential area with a number of preserved old buildings called Nelson's Terrace. Back to hotel & now very tired (keep nodding off sending this msg). Need to be up tomorrow, I've a 1-day trip involved which includes a steam train ride on 'Puffing Billy' (not my idea, honestly). Think their web is www.pbr.org.au. I'll have to check out before the trip. All being well, tomorrow evening I fly to Perth.

My photographs of my Easter Island Transit are here.

My photographs of Melbourne are here.

My photographs of Melbourne's local railways are here.

Sun 19th:

Boy, I was tired last night. But sleep and a light breakfast and I was fit again. Today was a coach trip. Not exactly my usual style, but it worked out well. Picked up at 8, others already on board, then 1/2 mile to their central depot where we're sorted into our final coach leaving at 8.40. Drive out to Dadenong where there's forests of huge eucalyptus and many birds. Picnic of Billy Tea (just Australian tea made in a Billy can but excellent), crackers with Vegemite (worse than Marmite, if you can believe) and Australian chocolate & coconut cake. Excellent driver. Then, continue to the Puffing Billy preserved railway. 2 ft 6 in gauge built 1900 (I think as a tourist line) about 18km (I think - we only went on part of it - swizz) and heavily graded in parts at 1 in 40. I'd e-mailed the railway a couple of days ago & had a nice reply confirming a footplate ride should be possible. Their biggest engine is a Manchester-built Garrett, and that was on the train, so I had an excellent (if short) ride. Everybody very friendly. Coach then descended into the Yarra Valley which is wine growing country so we stopped at one for lunch. The've just finished the harvest, and there's celebrations this weekend equivalent to a UK beer festival where each winery opens its doors (for money) and people go on a 'winery crawl'. Then we went to a wildlife centre and were conducted around by a volunteer. In two hours there, I saw lots of animals and birds I've not seen before. Three things that come to mind were the dingos (on a lead part of the time, like pets, so people could stroke 'em), the duck billed platypus and the demonstration of birds of prey. All very professional and interesting. Then about a 1 hr 30 min drive back to city where the tour bus was going to drop off at each hotel in turn. Since I was going to be last, I decided to drop off at Richmond Station for a last train trip back to Flinders Street then tram ride back to hotel. I wish British cities were as easy to get around as Melbourne. I'm now back at the hotel waiting for transport to the airport 'cos this evening I fly to Perth. Incidentally, I was talking to a very interesting ex-politician, Tom Uren, this morning. I'll 'Google' him. Hope things are well with all of you.

My photographs on the 'Puffing Billy' trip are here.

My pictures of Healesville and the Wine Country are here.

Mon Feb 20th:

Well, just as I'm sending last e-mail, transport arrives. Uneventful trip West to Perth (nice business lounge in Melbourne Airport). Surprise - no car in Perth. Contact 'em - they met an earlier flight! So it's do-it-yourself time again (I think there may be a moral here) but the hotel is expecting me. Big, modern hotel but well-located 'downtown'. Reasonable room has (partial) river view. Sleep well, very decent cooked breakfast, picked up for the Rottnest trip. With the other hotel pickups, takes longer to get to the ferry terminal than it 'ud take to walk. Then onto a small 'Cat' for the trip down the Swan River. This becomes very wide in parts, with residential development most of the way on either side of crumbling limestone cliffs. And more moored sea-going pleasure craft than I thought had been built. The Australian dream, it seems. Get off at the dock in Fremantle & shortly board a 'Big Cat' for the 18 km crossing to Rottnest Island ('Rats Nest' named after the quokkas which the Dutch explorer thought were big rats. The island is now Government owned and run and is the 'playground' for Perth. Many tourists, some daytrippers, some staying in holiday accommodation. No private cars - buses and cycles. The cycle hire shop stocks 2,000 bicycles! The small town can get busy with trippers. I walked inland, past a number of salt lakes. They originally exported salt from Rottnest. It was used for a prison & over 300 Aboriginals died here. There was a miltitary presence because of its strategic position on the approaches to Fremantle which was maintained in WWI & WW2. After lunch at the hotel, go on a 2-hr bus trip round the island. Meet the quokkas. They're marsupials about the size of a cat, a bit like a squirrel with a big rat tail. Although they live wild, they're used to man. I was charmed that when I kneeled to take a photo the quokka came over and let me stroke him with no concerns ('though I'm told they can bite). Returned to Fremantle on big cat but then walked in the city. University town, lots of bookshops and street after street of little-changed 1900 streets. Extremely important and, of course, I loved it. Also earlier buildings like fort and prison in local limestone. Then walked to the station & caught the local electric service back to Perth (overhead a.c., 2-car EMU, narrow gauge - surprised to see dual gauge in parts - what's that about?) There a some 1900s buildings in Perth but the overall effect is of a modern city with lots of tall buildings. Tomorrow morning start a long journey - more follows.

My pictures of Perth: here

My pictures of Freemantle and Rottnest: here.

My pictures of Perth's railways: here.

Mon Feb 20th:

Last night, when I asked the hotel about using the internet, they checked & found they were 'down'. They directed me to a convenience store over the road. Perfectly normal store except, just inside the door, 4 booths equipped with computers, webcam headset with mic & phones plus a common printer! By the time I got there, it was almost 10.30 pm so I didn't have long before the place shut. But I managed to get my e-mail out (and the connection was FAST). This morning, early breakfast then a walk around part of the city. It's a spacious city with broad streets & pavements and, towards the river, gardens. All the ferries leave from 5 piers in this area near the futuristic Swan Bell Tower (which is supposed to hold the bells from, I think, St. Clement Danes in London. Dunno why). There's decent Government buildings (British Legacy) and some turn of the century shops and a nice Post Office but it's mainly shopping malls & tall blocks. I went to the station & decided to check out the commuter line to Whitfords.

[railspeak on]

The freeway North to the 'burbs, put in around 20 years ago, left a central margin for a railway which was put in about 10 years ago. It's NG, overhead electrified, left hand running but with facing & trailing crossovers periodically presumably to cope with single line working. Signalling is 3-aspect route signalling (route indicators are both line-of-lights & theatre type). There are some signals for the reverse direction but they are sparse & I couldn't work out the pattern. FB welded rail with fairly massive built-up crossings at points. I observed some sort of automatic train control around Perth, but not a system I know. On this line, stock is 3-car EMU (Bombardier EDI), also seen in multiple. Each station is individually architect designed in fairly-inoffensive modern style. I experienced a fast, comfortable ride. Ticket barriers are strange. Alongside the conventional automatic barriers, there's always an open gate! If you have a ticket 'loaded' with cash, you 'tag in' and 'tag out' to deduct the correct fare. But machines also sell paper tickets for 1,2,3 or 4 zones which give you 2 hours to complete your journey. As far as I can see, the open gates are for users of paper tickets.

[railspeak off]

By the time I was back in Perth, the shops were open, so I browsed a bookshop & transferred one of my camera memory cards to CD so I could re-use the card. Rather oddly, the machine to do this was on the pavement outside the shop (tho' there was an awning). Back to hotel, check out, car to airport, check in (very painless) via security to departure area (including check of hand luggage by wiping a sample cloth over the bags & my watch strap and then checking sample cloth in an ion analyser which identifies explosives - all carried out with great politeness). Perth was growing on me because the people are just so friendly & polite. In fact, that's my experience throughout Australia & I will think on this trip with great fondness for the people I've met. Currently in the excellent Quantas lounge at Perth awaiting the Cathay Pacific flight to Hong Kong. The lounges do help to take the stress out of passing through airports and, with internet access at most places, the time can be put to good use. There's something of a conflict between trying to paint a picture for you and actually spending time gaining these experiences so, as you may have noticed, when under pressure I resort to 'then I did this, then I did this' but I hope that some of my observations have been of interest. I transit Hong Kong, with luck spending time in the lounge, then Cathay again to Delhi. I should be met 'cos then I transfer to the domestic airport for the short flight to Udaipur, where I should be met again & transferred to the hotel. I daren't think about how long this leg will be! A couple of nights plus an evening in India & then it's back home. I just can't believe how much I've seen since I left. I left with a bad cold, headaches and was actually sick on the first flight. But things have steadily improved & I'm fine now. Temperatures yesterday & today of 39 Celsius help! Be back soon!

Tue 21st:

"The best laid schemes of mice and men gang aft agley" as Rabbie wrote. Well, boarded the Cathay Pacific A330 at Perth on schedule. Thought it was a bit warm. No air conditioning. That wasn't the main problem but (eventually) the captain said the engineers were working on an electrical fault. After an hour, he announced 'fixed', just as a major thunderstorm hit - torrential rain. Apparently, Health & Safety dictates ground crew cannot go out in thunderstorms so we could not push back. Sat for another hour until storm passed over. The flight was excellent. Individual TV screens & 20 video channels (some a/c have an extra 6 channels). The video equipment is adjacent to one of the galley areas 2 columns each with 10 rugged video tape players. Above this, 3 dual hard disc players (presumably for those extra channels, but not working on my flight). The problem was, we arrived Hong Kong 22:30 whereas my flight to Delhi was due to depart 22:20 and it did, although the cabin attendants thought they'd hold the departure. This has messed up all the remaining arrangements & I still don't know how it will work out. Cathay gave me a voucher for a room at the Regent Airport Hotel, plus a boarding card for Cathay's flight to Singapore (!) the next morning & a voucher to get me on the Singapore - Delhi in the afternoon. All my arrangements were made through Wexas so I rang their emergency number and left a message (not very reassuring, leaving a message). It's a huge hotel. The room was OK but I'd checked most of my luggage through to Delhi so I'd not much with me. By this time it was midnight, but I went down to use the internet (expensive!) to leave details at Wexas. Having done that, I rang the ordinary Wexas number and managed to get Ruan just as she was leaving for the day. Slept well but not long & got up 0545 to catch the Airport Express train to Hong Kong. Still dark when I started but light when I got off about 26 mins later on Hong Kong Island. To me, Hong Kong means the Star Ferry so I walked to the ferry and spent 2.2 HK dollars on an upper deck crossing to Kowloon. Dunno why I complained about Perth's tall buildings. They're a pimple compared with Hong Kong Island! Got off, doubled back onto the lower deck of the same ferry (cost 1.7 HKD) and returned to the Island and went back on the train. I think it's the first time I've been on that train in daylight. First, you go past miles of containers stacked high surrounded by a forest of container cranes. Hong Kong is one of the top world ports and most of it's on reclaimed land. Then past tower block after tower block of flats. Then across a number of interconnected mountainous islands where the mountains have been hacked away to give a channel for the railway & highway, through a new town & finally to the huge new airport on reclaimed land. Check out of hotel, check onto flight. Another pleasant Cathay flight to Singapore, this time on a 777. The 777 has a belly camera looking forward. For take off & landing, they put the picture on the big screen in the cabin. Not very high-res but spooky. Catering & service excellent. Arrived Singapore on time. The airport is huge - I walked an awful long way just to get to the right transfer desk & I'm now awaiting boarding on an Air India flight to Delhi. The rather basic SATS Lounge I'm using charges for internet (ah, for those Quantas lounges) but, at least you know what's happened. I don't know what happens next, but this may delay my return by 1 or 2 days. I'll let you know when I know.

Wed 22nd:

Thanks for your replies. Just an update to let you know I've safely made it to Delhi.The Air India A310 was a bit long in the tooth & basic (6 audio channels no video) and the meals lacked the flair of, say, Cathay, but the food was quite tasty & the staff very friendly. Arrived on time, baggage arrived safely, cleared immigration & customs promptly. Met in the arrivals hall by the agent, whisked to Le Meridien. Modern, French, large. I've a very good room so I should recharge myself 'cos I'm being picked up at 4 am on the 23rd to fly to Udaipur where I spend 1 night in the Lake Palace Hotel & looking around Udaipur before flying back to Delhi & staying at the Imperial. Still not sure of my exact return date now. Will advise later.

Thu 23rd:

Set the alarm for 3 am & got up feeling surprisingly well. A little after 4 I was taken to the airport for the 737 flight to Udaipur. 'Breakfast' comprised bread roll, butter and a cup of tea or coffee. However, it was delicous. I arrived on time, met up with guide, safely retrieved the hold baggage & set off by car for hotel. Udaipur ... There should follow a detailed description of the hotel which took me a hour to type, which I saved in draft twice and then sent. But, because the system had somehow 'dropped' me both the sent email and the saved drafts have disappeared ... I am booked to return on Tuesday 28th February now, arriving at the same time as originally.

Fri 24th:

I was met at the airport, taken to the city, often called the most romantic city in India. It was founded by Maharana (king) Udai Singh in 1567 after a holy man told him the site would bring good fortune. Modern Udaipur has a population of around 1/2 million and is clean (relatively) and pollution-free. Last year the 3 artificial lakes dried up - a disaster for tourism - but after the monsoon, levels are almost normal. The City Palace overlooking Lake Pichola is the 2nd largest palace in India. It's now a museum, hotel & home of the current Maharana. On the lake, two white marble palaces appear to float, Jag Mandir & Jag Niwas (now the Lake Palace Hotel, built 1746). The car delivered me to the first 'reception' on land side with turbanned, uniformed staff. Then conducted (under a protective unbrella, to the launch for the crossing of a 1/4 mile or so to the hotel itself. There's a fleet of fibreglass launches (for 8-10 passengers) with pull-start outboards shuttling back & forth. The launch delivers you to a landing stage for a short walk (under another umbrella) to the reception proper. I was being upgraded, they said. Soon I was being conducted across an outside courtyard, marbled like the whole hotel, past a marble fountain to the Kamal Mahal (lotus palace) suite. The massive wooden door leads to a small lobby (about 5 x 4 feet) with a traditional portrait of an Indian princess. Thence to an entrance hall with a carved marble-topped table flanked by 2 decorated 'silver' chairs (actually wooden chairs covered with worked silver sheet). There's also a carved cupboard carrying a white marble lion about 12 inches tall and a wooden stand with a bronze peacock. On to the bedroom (about 22 x 22 ft) with an Indian carpet about 15 x 12 feet.There's a large wooden bed with a canopy and side curtains, bedside tables, large carved desk for writing with a large traditional painting in a 6 x 4 ft frame above, smaller desk with mirror and hair drier and a cupboard with minibar surmounted by a huge plasma TV. There are two settees facing one another across a round table. Four rooms lead off the bedroom. The dressing room (9 x 9 ft) is reached through a heavy pair of doors (2 in thick with 1.5 in mouldings on either side and traditional brass pull-rings & horizontal bolt.This room has a bay window (about 5 x 3 ft bay) overlooking the lake. The room is decorated with freizes of mosaic stone lotus flowers set in mortar. The sides of the entrance to the bay are embellished with 7 miniature paintings on either side. Next is the dining room, similar size, similar mosaic but the ceiling also carries mosaic designs. There are two bay windows at right angles to one another. One bay is decorated with 3 miniatures on either side. The bathroom has a raised bath in a marble surround, 2 washbasins, WC, bidet and corner shower stall of generous proportions. The walls are also marble. Finally, there is a lounge (about 18 x 7 feet) flooded with light from four windows with 2 settees, two Carved wooden tables and a smaller plasma TV. I felt instantly at home & was reluctant to leave the suite, with spectacular views across the lake. I turned off the aircon and opened the windows (which was fine 'till it was dark, when rather a lot of insects came into the dining area, but I trapped 'em in there with a window open so they could escape & they'd mostly gone by morning). I'm in the room before 9 am, which is just as well 'cos I'm on the private city tour (taking in the main temple, City Palace Museum, Gardens and various craft shops where you're invited to make purchases (I did). At teatime, go on a private boat trip around the lake, taking in Jag Mandir. People find the sunsets very spectacular & camp out in all sorts of locations to watch. I felt very fortunate to return to my suite with numerous windows overlooking two directions giving good views of the sunset. I am enchanted by the place. Well, that's all for now, I'll update you next time - I'm now at the Imperial in Delhi.

Sat 25th:

Well, you'll gather I was quite impressed by the Lake Palace Hotel. Following morning I got up early and caught to launch just after sun-up, very late at about 7.30. I walked around the old town. India is just so different - so many sights to take in. I got lost but eventually sorted myself out (note to self, must get a compass or GPS - checking the sun's position seems to have too much error! At 8.30 got waylaid by another painting co-operative, but the miniature paintings they produce are fascinating. Then back to hotel for breakfast then checkout and by road to the Monsoon Palace on a very tall hill a few miles away from the town. The whole area is now a nature reserve (the maharana gave the semi-ruined palace to the state 50 years ago). Absolutely stunning views. Saw plenty of monkeys stripping all the leaves of trees. Then back to hotel for a final drink & to the airport for the afternoon Jet Airways flight to Delhi. Security was a real pain but the flight (in business class this time) was fine. Met in Delhi & transferred to the Imperial (http://theimperialindia.com). Real end-of-the-raj stuff in generally Art Deco style. I've a comfortable suite & sleep well. Breakfast on the terrace today (Saturday) then picked up to visit the Red Fort in Old Delhi. The crush of people & animals & traffic in Old Delhi is almost overwhelming, fortunately, I've been here once before so I had an idea what to expect but it's still an assault on the senses. Red Fort features some beautiful marble buildings & a very interesting museum of 400-year old artefacts. I'm having memory card troubles again, so we stopped off at a camera shop to get an additional card. Don't think shop, think a couple of small counters in a few square feet full of dusty and in some cases damaged cameras. But, they quickly phoned a man who had what I wanted & 'the boy' was despatched with my money to get it. Within 5 minutes, he was back with the right thing! Then, we moved on to the railway museum. Absolutely teeming with school parties, all in uniform, all quite disciplined, all anxious to say 'hello'. So then I got hot and sticky climbing on & off dead engines for photographic purposes. Then back to the hotel (with the madatory stop at a huge handicraft store at Safterjung). After a shower & a bite to eat on the terrace, I walked to nearby Jantar Mantar, an incredible astronomical observatory built hundreds of years ago on the grand scale in brick! These weird constructions, because of their size, give incredible accuracies. Then I walked to the nearest Metro station. Since I was here last, Delhi has 3 operating Metro lines, not yet commissioned over their ultimate length. This being India the stations aren't quite finished (loose or missing pavers on platforms, missing handrails on stairs) but the trains seem to work quite well. By now around 8 pm and return to hotel to wait for the boss from the tour company who is bringing the tickets for the side tour I decided to add. Can you guess where? I'll tell you later.

Sun 26th:

Shimla (sometimes, but I'm assured incorrectly, written Simla) was adopted as a Hill Station by the British to get away from the oppressive heat of summer in Delhi. I'd always wanted to visit so yesterday Krishan of the local agent delivered the paperwork (he and the agency he works for have been most attentive and deserve full marks). It is all arranged, he said, describing a car from Kalka to Shimla. Oh dear, I said, I wanted to go on the narrow gauge train. It will be a long day for you if you go by train, he replied then, like a conjurer, produced a one-way rail ticket he'd already obtained! So Sunday, I rose at 5.45, breakfasted and was taken to New Delhi station to catch the 7.40 Shatabdi (express) to Kalka, arriving 11.40. Leaving Delhi, you see the really poor conditions - refuse everywhere, insubstantial home-made tents. The lack of privacy in these conditions would be shocking to us but they appear to see it as normal. It's hard not to dwell on our affluence and their poverty, but this contrast is not new. In India, the ruling families enjoyed a standard of living which makes our lifestyles seem impoverished. Anyhow, they served tea leaving Delhi, later a hot snack & later another cup of tea. On arrival at Kalka, walked to the narrow gauge platforms where a big diesel headed 6 or 7 coaches. Seating is all pre-allocated & I was in a coach with some stuffy English tourists. The trip was unbelievable but, at 5 hours for 60 miles, not exactly fast. The line was built by the British around 1900 with steam haulage. It rained hard then dried up but became cold (I'm now in training for my return to the UK - bbrrrr!) Eventually arrived Shimla & met & transferred to the Cecil Hotel for 1 night. Guide look me for a walk through the already-dark town. Because of the hills, it's reminiscent of a Cornish fishing village, particularly since most buildings were designed in the British style. Dinner at the hotel and so to bed. Tomorrow return the Delhi hotel (http://theimperialindia.com) then set off back to UK.

Tue 28th Feb:

Shimla is a beautiful place - I can quite see why the British adopted it. Monday, after breakfast took a walk around the town then, by car, visited two Hindu temples & the Vice-Regal Lodge (a virtual palace built by the British & now used for post-grad research by the University. After another short walk in the town, by car back to Kalka, criss-crossing the amazing railway I'd come up on. Caught the 17:30 Shatabdi to Delhi, arriving just before 10pm. Met by driver, guide & Krishan & back to the Imperial. Pack, shower, rest for 40 mins then off to the airport at 12.45 am. Check-in fine but horrendous battle getting through immigration & security. Straight onto the BA 747-400 (upper deck, rear-facing seat) for uneventful journey back to Heathrow. Nearly 1 hr delay on baggage but all arrived safely eventually; then driven back to Brewood & straight into work about 10.45am. This trip exceeded my expectations in lots of ways - it will take some time to sort out my thoughts on this wonderful experience.