Ti Pu Village

After we'd visited Mount Popa and enjoyed an excellent lunch, it was agreed that we'd visit Ti Pu, one of the villages where 'Road to Mandalay' guests have assisted with funding for school buildings. It had rained earlier in the day and there was concern over whether our bus could make the two-mile trip over an unsurfaced track to reach the village. I expressed confidence that, if necessary, we'd walk from the main road. When we came to the featureless turning to Ti Pu, the bus parked and waited with those guests who were happy to stay on the bus whilst the rest of us set off on foot. In contrast with Mount Popa, it was quite warm and dry so spirits were quite high.

Meanwhile, the Doctor had been making plans on his mobile phone and he announced that the head man at the village was sending transport for us. We carried on walking until a high-pitched buzz announced the approach of a moped from the village, with a monk on the pillion seat. We wondered quite how we'd fit on the moped but, apparently, this was just the advance party to assure us that a larger vehicle was on its way. After a few minutes a large and ancient lorry appeared. Two of us squeezed into the cab and the others scrambled up into the rear. We appreciated the lift but it has to be said that the engine was very noisy and the comfort minimal.

When we arrived at the village, quite a crowd had assembled to greet us. The monastery complex was perhaps the largest building, followed by a government-provided building with a number of classrooms for the primary school. But, to deal with pupils beyond Grade 5, two more buildings (each with two classrooms) had been provided by the 'Road to Mandalay' charity, through the generosity of guests on the ship. About the same sum of money was expended on each of the buildings, but inflation meant that the later building, although serviceable and welcome, lacked some of the refinements of the earlier building.

The earlier 'Road to Mandalay' building at Ti Pu.

The more recent 'Road to Mandalay' building at Ti Pu.

The monk introduced the headmaster and one of the teachers. Doctor Hla Tun translated as the monk and teaching staff had very little English but their eagerness to give the local children the best possible educational opportunities was clear.

The Headmaster of Ti Pu Schools

The Head Monk and one of the Teachers at Ti Pu

In rural areas like this, it's quite common for children to walk for two hours in the morning to reach school and face a similar journey home after school. Classes in the higher Grades may not be available at all, hence the importance of providing assistance to extend existing schools. 'Road to Mandalay' always operate through local monks who are both respected and can motivate local people. Donated money goes quite a long way as, when there's building work to be done, the whole village comes together to help. Government funds for teachers' salary and teaching materials can be erratic and so, when the need arises, the 'Road to Mandalay' charity will try to help.

We spent a little more time with the children and some of the villagers before clambering back onto the lorry for the uncomfortable ride back to our bus, patiently waiting for us on the tarmac road. When you make a visit like this, it's impossible not to be moved by the dignity of these people and natural to want to help in some small way. More pictures of Ti Pu.

Mount Popa, Myanmar

On this trip too much was happening and, at this point, I failed to keep the postings up-to-date so I didn't write the following report until I was safely back home.

Saturday 29th August 2009

It’s a fairly intensive schedule because on Saturday we were offered a whole day trip to Mount Popa by road. Of course, if they prefer, people could stay on the ship and sunbathe, swim, take a spa treatment, use the gym or just sit and read in the Observation Lounge. All the trips were so well organised that I was reluctant to miss any of them. Each trip showed a different aspect of this fascinating country.

The view of Taung Kalat from the Mount Popa Resort

So, around 9.00 a.m. we set off in the usual tour bus with the usual driver, driver's assistant and Mr. Win as our guide. A second bus travelled independently. Before we even joined the main road, our bus managed to 'snag' an overhead cable and bring it down. We stopped and, looking out of the back window of the bus, I could see a couple of cables caught on a spotlight mounted on the roof of the bus. A long bamboo pole appeared from somewhere and the cables were quickly disentangled. I couldn't follow what happened next but, within minutes, we continued on our journey. I was left wondering if the cables were live and who would re-instate them but I'm afraid I never found out.

Our journey took us over a reasonable road through flat, dry farmland with the occasional village or small town. Many of the houses we passed were just bamboo but I was puzzled that a number of them featured rectangular brick-built chimneys. When we stopped, the explanation became clear. We stopped at a 'Toddy Palm Plantation' where the sap of this particular palm provides the raw material for distilling a potent rum-type drink which Mr. Win referred to as 'daiquiri'. Although I knew the term 'Toddy', I'd no idea that this industry existed not only in Myanmar but in a number of countries. There's a Wikipedia Article on the topic.

We'd stopped near a collection of the Toddy Palms with a large open-sided bamboo 'shed' forming the production area. A one-bullock 'mill' was set up nearby. This is an overgrown pestle and mortar made from wood where the grinding power comes from a bullock which is harnessed to walk in a circle under the control of the miller who rides on a horizontal board. We were given the opportunity to have our photograph taken on this contraption and have a ride on the horizontal board. The bullock seemed perfectly content to perform for these strange visitors.

The productive trees had bamboo ladders tied to them so that the young lads who harvest them could quickly climb the palm, make thin slices using a sharp knife and collect the sap in a number of pots suspended from their belt before returning to the ground.

Moving inside the bamboo shed, we could see a number of crude stills, connected to the brick chimneys visible outside and other brick fireplaces where sugar was being boiled in metal pans. The sugar-boiling was being overseen by two ladies seated on the earth floor and making the most exquisite decorations and a whistle (!) from bamboo, pausing occasionally to add a few small pieces of bamboo to the fire. A large tray of brown sugar 'sweets' was drying in another part of the shed.

The distillation process involves the liquor being heated in a still until it vaporises. A large pan of cold water is placed on top of the still to condense the vapour which is allowed to run down a delivery tube into a waiting glass bottle.

We were given a sample of the 'Toddy' - it certainly seemed a fiery drink! We were also invited to try the 'sweets' which I found delicious. It was a very pleasant interlude with a lot of smiling. As we left we were presented with a small woven bamboo 'purse' containing the 'sweets', two of the decorations and one of the whistles. Pictures of the Toddy Palm Plantation.

As we continued towards Mount Popa, the road started to climb and the temperature dropped noticeably. By the time we arrived at the township of Mount Popa it was raining quite hard. We passed a monastery and parked in the main street near the entrance to the Taung Kalat temples.

Mount Popa is an extinct volcano which rises to almost 5,000 feet above sea level. It is the home of the 37 'Nats' or spirits which form an important part of the beliefs of most Burmese. The Taung Kalat temples are at the summit of a pillar of rock in the town reached by a climb of 777 steps. The steps are covered but open at the side so we still got fairly wet on the ascent. Many of the steps were tiled so they became quite slippery with the rainwater sluicing down but, with the aid of the handrails, it wasn't too bad. A large number of monkeys inhabit the mountain so we were carefully observed at every step. The monkeys have a reputation for being aggressive, but they seemed mainly curious. At the top, there are a number of temples and stunning views, muted somewhat by the appalling weather. On our way down, we paused to buy some sugar cane to feed to the monkeys who appreciated the gesture. Oh, and we made a contribution to the 'Temple Cleaners' who had solicited tips on the way up. This was also appreciated. Not all of our group had made the ascent but, despite the weather, I found it very worth-while. Pictures at Mount Popa.

Lunch had been arranged for us at the nearby Mount Popa Resort which is situated in a National Park and built on a wooded mountainside of Mount Popa itself, at an elevation of 2,618 feet. When we arrived, we found our other bus had already arrived with the rest of the guests on the trip together with the T.V. crew and the Ship's Doctor. Dampened spirits were revived by an excellent lunch. By the time we'd eaten, the rain had stopped and we could enjoy marvellous views of Mount Popa itself, before boarding the bus to return to the ship. Pictures at Mount Popa Resort.

Doctor Hla Tun explained that our route back to the ship would take us within a couple of miles of Ti Pu Village, where 'Road to Mandalay' guests had provided support for new school buildings. I was keen to see what had been achieved, so I discussed with my fellow guests the possibility of a detour. Everybody was happy to make the side trip so, when we set off, the Doctor travelled in the bus with us, in order to show us some of the work for the local people that 'Road to Mandalay' is doing. The side trip is described in a separate post here.

After the visit to Ti Pu, we carried on back to ship after a thoroughly enjoyable, if exhausting, day.

I didn't realise it back in August 2009, but I was to return to Mount Popa Resort and Ti-Pu.