I was staying in the Heritage Hotel, Auckland, a conversion of Farmers Department Store built in the 1930s which appealed to me. Farmers are still trading but in a different location in Auckland. My room had a view of Auckland Harbour Bridge which I would have found impressive, had I not a couple of days earlier completed the Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb experience.
View of Auckland Harbour Bridge from The Heritage Hotel (Auckland, 2002)
But what I had found impressive was the brooding presence of Rangitoto Island, with its symmetrical, conical volcano rising 260 metres above the sea, around 10 km away. Rangitoto erupted 600 years ago and is regarded as 'dormant'. Before 9.00 a.m., I was aboard a modern, catamaran Fullers ferry in the shadow of Auckland's Ferry Building for the 30 minute trip to the Wharf on Rangitoto Island to get a closer view.
Ferry Building and HSBC building: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
As the ferry powered away from the dock, it started to rain, quite seriously. I was travelling on the upper, open deck so I sheltered under the section with a canvas sun roof above, but cold rain was sluicing in from the sides. This was not quite how I had imagined Auckland.
Auckland in the rain: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
We called briefly at Devonport Pier and then continued to the wharf at Rangitoto. The rain ceased as quickly as it had started, so I felt quite cheerful as I disembarked.
I followed the single track away from the wharf to a junction, where a signpost pointed inland to a 'Summit Track'. With no obvious alternatives and nowhere to make enquiries, I set off to the summit on a decent track which ascended through lush, green bush. Periodically, I'd turn to check the view towards the mainland. The skies over the mainland still looked troubled but I was dry and the cooler temperature was helpful as I continued upwards. Eventually I reached a viewpoint, with a neat boardwalk, seats and fences around a central, wooden pylon. There was also a derelict, blockwork hut which might have once been a shop but had been daubed 'Danger - Keep Out'. The area clearly allowed for a number of visitors to take their ease, but I was quite alone (the camera's self timer allowed me to record my first volcano ascent).
Jan at summit of Rangitoto: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
View of Cheltenham and Auckland from summit of Rangitoto: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
The crater rim path led me all around the top of the volcano before I started to descend. A sign to 'Lava Caves' led to a a different path bringing me to a series of fissures in the volcanic rock but I didn't explore far into the darkness within.
Crater rim path, Rangitoto summit: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
Lava Caves, Rangitoto: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
I completed my descent the area near the wharf and found the 'Rangitoto Volcanic Explorer' - a tractor hauling a passenger coach which gets visitors near the summit. It was not running during my visit but might have run later. I was happy that I'd made the ascent unaided.
The Rangitoto Volcanic Explorer was not running during my visit: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
There seemed nothing further to detain me on the island so I decided to board the next ferry to arrive and travel on to Motuihe Island. Before we departed, I managed to snatch a picture of the bridge.
Bridge of modern catamaran ferry: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
As we sailed around Rangitoto to reach Motuihe, I proudly surveyed my achievement from afar.
Rangitoto Volcano viewed from ferry: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
Motuihe is a small island (179 hectares in area). It was first settled by the Maori, then farmed by Europeans for a century before becoming a quarantine station for Auckland in 1872. In the first World War it became a prisoner of war camp, in the second World War it was used as a naval training base. Boasting some of the finest beaches in the area, it is now a recreation reserve for day trips or camping controlled by the Department of Conservation.
Arriving astern at Motuihe Wharf: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
The ferry was booked to wait for a while at Motuihe before returning to Auckland so I decided to just explore the beach nearby and then rejoin the same ferry, rather than spending some hours on the island before catching a later ferry. The sun was strong and all signs of the morning rain had disappeared.
Ferry waiting at Rangitoto Wharf: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
On the return journey, we stopped at Devonport Pier and I was able to admire the preserved steam tug 'William C Daldy'. There's more information on their website here.
Devonport Pier with preserved steam tug 'William C Daldy': Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
As we left the pier, we passed a large catamaran ferry arriving.
Leaving Devonport Pier for Auckland, showing a catamaran ferry arriving: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
Within ten minutes, we were docking at Auckland, after a marvellous trip.
Arriving back at Auckland's ferry terminal: Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry (Auckland, 2002)
Related posts on this website
Selecting label 'RTW1' or clicking here displays all the posts on this trip in reverse date-of-posting order.
My pictures
Rangitoto and Motuihe Islands by ferry, 2002
