Saturday 3 May 2014

Mandalay briefly

Click on any picture below for an uncropped image.

Events of Tuesday 29th April 2014

I was picked up promptly at the Aye Yar Hotel, sorry to leave the comfortable resort and the friendly staff. Although I wasn’t able to upload any photographs using their internet, after a bit of trouble initially logging onto their Wi-Fi, it gave me a reliable connection.

Although the itinerary had me booked on Air Bagan flight W9-143 departing Nyaung Oo at 08:25, a note attached to the itinerary which I didn’t properly understand until too late explained that I’d been “bumped” to the W9-201 leaving at 09:40, so I was at the airport rather early. Check-in was very rapid and painless and I was directed to a crowded departure lounge with my hand luggage. Air Bagan is only one of a number of local airlines using mainly turbo-props to ferry people between Yangon, Nyaung Oo, Mandalay and Heho. Depending upon the time of day, a flight may be direct or with intermediate stops although because Nyaung Oo and Mandalay are only about 35 minutes flying time apart, I think this is always ‘one hop’. There were lots of foreign tourists around and the waiting passengers kept changing as various aircraft arrived and departed.

Eventually, I boarded my flight and we quickly took off, leaving the friendly cabin crew just enough time to serve a cold drink to their passengers before we approached Mandalay Airport. Although Mandalay is an ‘International’ airport, most flights are still domestic, but I’m sure that’s changing. The runway is claimed to be the longest in South East Asia, certainly overkill for the turbo-props with their excellent STOL (Short Take Off and Landing) performance. I always seem to think of the use that an unfriendly foreign power might make of such a grand runway.

After we landed, a transfer bus took us to the rather grand, modern but largely deserted terminal. There is a baggage carousel at Mandalay and they were using it for my flight. The bags arrived promptly and I easily spotted my waiting driver in the arrivals hall. We went outside and made our way to the parked car for the drive to the Sedona Hotel.

My room at the Sedona overlooked the Swimming Pool at the rear of the hotel.

With the help of the hotel, I contacted my friends Ko Hlaing (a Shipping Agent) and Htein Linn (an engine driver), two people I was hoping to meet up with. Ko Hlaing said he would meet me at the hotel Tuesday evening. Hteinn Linn said he would pick me up at 6.30 a.m. Wednesday.

Having made these arrangements, I had the afternoon free and decided to visit the railway station. Having walked there and back in the past, I foolishly decided to walk again. Walking gives you the chance to watch the life of the city in detail.

A group of female workers pause for lunch in the shade of a large tree. The moat around the Royal Palace site is on the left.

This time, I’d underestimated either the effect of the 42 degrees Celsius heat or my declining fitness because I almost collapsed at the railway station. I did my usual combination of ‘people watching’ and technical survey and concluded I needed a ride back to the hotel. A charming young man with a taxi motorcycle offered to take me. I was very tempted but, when wearing a longyi, men and women pillion passengers ride ‘side saddle’ and I was afraid I was still too ‘wobbly’ for that so he negotiated a rate with a pick-up truck taxi. As the only passenger, I got to ride in the cab but he would probably have been happy to take a dozen or more people.

Ko Hlaing arrived at teatime and we chatted happily for some time. He said he’d call again the following evening with his wife and daughter, whom I’d also met before.

Events of Wednesday 30th April 2014

Htein Linn arrived at 6.30 a..m., as arranged, with his wife and two daughters. He showed me a number of pagodas before we spent some hours at his family home in Myitinge, a few miles outside Mandalay. Then we went to his wife’s family home, also in Myitnge where there seemed to be a large extended family, calling for various photographs of family groupings. I was overwhelmed by their kindness and will describe the wonderful day in more detail when I can.

Htein Linn and Family at the Mahamuni Temple.

In the evening, Ko Hlaing came to the Sedona with his wife and five year old daughter who is about to start school. The first time I saw their daughter, she was still a babe in arms!

Ko Hlaing and Family visiting Jan at the Sedona Hotel.

Well, in brief, that was Mandalay. The next day I flew back to Yangon (with an intermediate stop at Heho, in Shan State), was met by a driver and taken to the Strand Hotel for a two night stop before the final section of my Myanmar tour to Sittwe and Mrauk U. More when I can.

My Pictures

Nyaung Oo Airport (pictures from an earlier trip).
Mandalay International Airport.
Sedona Hotel, Mandalay.
Around Mandalay, 2014.
A day with Htein Linn and Family.
Mandalay's railways.

More

Next Post describing this trip.

[Revised 27-May-2014]