Monday 18 December 2006

Toronto, 2004

Back in July 2004, my friend Rita wanted to visit her daughter, Liz, in Canada, and I accompanied her. It was my first trip to Canada, the first time I'd flown Air Transat. I was impressed by both the country and the airline. I only got to see Toronto and its environs, plus a trip we made through the wine country to Niagara to see the falls, but that was enough to make me want to go back. Toronto is a cosmopolitan city with over 80 ethnic groups, speaking 100 languages and I found the residents very friendly. Once I'd worked out how the streetcar system worked, I was able to get around by "Riding the Rocket", as Toronto Transport Commission markets the tram and subway system. The subway is underground in the city but on the surface as you leave downtown and I used it as much as possible. I also explored parts of the commuter train system. I stayed at trendy 'Drake Hotel' on Queen Street West, midway between the city centre and the house where Liz and her partner Jen were then living, with Jen's father Ben staying in the basement flat.

We made sure of a trip by road to Niagara, taking the 'pretty route' through the wine-making area, stopping at one of the wineries for lunch and a wine tasting. As expected, Niagara is commercial and dedicated to the tourists who flock to look at the falls. To my surprise, I was not offended as you can just walk along the road to a low wall giving a close view of the Canadian Falls without paying anybody. Our time was limited but we decided to go on a trip boat. This involved a walk downstream to where a steep path leads down to a dock at water level. A series of tough little ferry boats, called 'Maid of the Mist' then 'I', 'II' and so on, take you upstream, past the American Falls and up close to the foot of the Canadian Falls. Everybody was issued with a plastic mac and, as we approached the Falls, the effect was not so much disappearing into a mist spray, rather having a fire hose turned on you. But everyone seemed to accept this with good humour and the effect of looking up at the thundering wall of water was truly 'awesome'. We disembarked rather damp but thrilled with the experience. Returning to Toronto, we stopped at a 'Diner' set in a clearing in a forested area - an idyllic, tranquil spot.

Next morning, I took the streetcar and Metro to Sheppard & Leslie Metro station, then walked to the nearest 'GO Train' (commuter train) station for a trip back to Toronto. The train was 'push-pull' with a small driving cab in the leading end of the first double-deck car of the set and a massive General Electric diesel-electric locomotive propelling from the rear. Seeing me taking photographs, the driver very kindly invited me into the cab for the journey back to Toronto Union Station.

The first time we visited the CN Tower, we found the queues daunting so instead booked lunch for the following day when the queues were even longer but the lunch reservation gave us immediate access to the express elevator to the revolving restaurant 1,150 feet above the ground. We enjoyed an excellent lunch with friendly, attentive service and, since the restaurant was only about half full, there was no hurry to leave. The restaurant makes a complete revolution in 72 minutes, giving panoramic views of the city and lots of photographic opportunities. We checked out the windy outdoor observation deck and stood on the glass floor, both 1,122 feet above the ground, but the numbers of visitors discouraged me from standing in line to catch the elevator to the Sky Pod at 1,465 feet above ground.

Returning to ground level, we looked at the outside of a preserved engine shed, a typical 'roundhouse' with concrete coaling plant alongside. Part of the building has been taken over by the 'Steam Whistle Brewery' which produces a popular premium beer. We toured the plant, all stainless steel and shiny, enjoying an informative commentary from one of the young guides. The rest of the roundhouse is not open to the public but is reputed to house a number of preserved steam locomotives.

I established the pattern of rising early and going downtown on the streetcar, each day exploring a different part of Toronto using various streetcar and subway lines, usually taking in a trip on one of the commuter trains before joining Rita and Liz for the rest of the day. My friends found this behaviour odd, but it enabled me to find out a little about the city and look at the public transport systems as well. One day Rita, Liz and I took a trip on Lake Ontario on a modern sailing ship - another great way to view the city. Another day, Ben and I tried out a preserved cargo ship which also gives trips on the Lake. Although we were under sail for part of this trip, most of it was on the auxiliary engine.

In an attempt to convince my friends I was not a complete 'anorak', on my last day I made an early morning trip to Toronto Island, set in Lake Ontario just offshore of downtown Toronto, to take 'arty' photographs of Canada Geese flying low over the lake against the rising sun. Toronto Island is a nature reserve and recreational site, about 4.5 miles long, linked to the city by three ferry routes. I turned up at the dock bright and early, to find the place deserted. Eventually, I found one employee who said he didn't think the ferries started so early on a Saturday. A ferry arrived and enquiries were made - yes, they'd take me. Another panic - all the ticket machines were locked! The employee waved me aboard with a laconic "You're one lucky lady - you get to go for free!". There was only one other passenger and when we docked on the island, he was met by a fire truck, as he was apparently one of the island's firemen! Some people live or stay on the island, but it was pretty quiet and I was able to take some nature photographs. Halfway along the island, I saw another ferry at the second dock, but I'd determined to carry on to the third dock at the far end of the island. When the ferry arrived, it was the 'Ongiara' - the ferry I'd come over on. The deck hand welcomed me aboard with "You're hard to get rid of!"

It was a great trip and I hope to return to see more of Canada.

So where are all these photographs? At the time, I was still using my trusty Canon EOS with real film and I've not yet had the pictures scanned in, but they'll be posted as soon as possible.

You can find the pictures I've so far scanned here and pictures of railways, subway and streetcars appear in a number of sets in the collection Present-day Railways (Overseas).