Out of Africa

Thursday, 1st March 2012

After just two nights at Vumbura Plains, it was time to leave - this time not for another Safari Camp but for the long journey home. Because of the Night Drive the previous night, I decided to miss the morning Game Drive and relax a little prior to the long journey. Sensible, but I missed a cheetah sighting.

The Land Rover was full at 10.50 a.m. when we left the Camp for the airstrip. Ona driving, me beside him in the front, a member of the management team going on leave with a member of staff to help out at the airstrip and the two French guests who were just travelling as far as Maun that day. We had a few sightings on the way, including three ostriches near the airstrip.

Three ostriches near the airstrip.

This time, it was the Cessna 'Grand Caravan' that swooped in to pick us up. This aircraft carries 12 passengers with their luggage in a 'pod' under the fuselage. For quick turnaround, the engine is kept running as the passengers leave and board the aircraft.

Cessna A2-EGL about to board passengers at Vumbura Plains airstrip.

The member of Camp Staff who travelled to the airstrip is responsible for positioning a barrier on the left side of the aircraft to keep passengers away from the danger area near the rotating propellor. He also places the landing steps next to the large rear door on the Port side. Of course, he also helps with luggage. We clamber aboard, the aircraft is closed up and the steps and barrier are wheeled away. The Pilot welcomes the 'Joiners' and explains that he will first call at Xigera airstrip before continuing to our destination Maun.

The Pilot welcomes 'Joiners' at Vumbura Plains.

Within a few minutes, the aircraft is airborne. After a flight of just over ten minutes, we land at Xigera where we take on, I think, five more passengers. We're only on the ground for about five minutes before taking-off again for our 20 minute flight to Maun.

Maun (usually said 'Ma-Oon', rather than 'Morn') has seen rapid growth and merits an entry in Wikipedia. After a few days in the Bush, the sight of so many buildings (mainly modern and prefabricated) was quite startling and the tarmac road with white line markings incredible. The runway at the airport had been extended and, of course, it was tarmac. We landed and it took us about five minutes to taxi to our stand, in amongst a number of other small aircraft.

Maun International Airport seen from our arriving Cessna.

The disembarking passengers either boarded a 'Golf Buggy' or walked about 200 yards in the hot sun to reach the modern terminal building. Baggage handlers followed with our bags in a truck. In the terminal building, I was re-united with my modest luggage and one of the baggage handlers pointed out the check-in counter for my flight to Johannesburg. Soon I was in possession of my boarding card and, retaining my bag with my computer, I started to wonder whether I'd get internet, as I had at Kasane airport. At that moment, a representative from Wilderness Safaris appeared. He said that there had formerly been a free Wi-Fi at the airport but it had been removed. He offered the use of the Wi-Fi at the Wilderness Safaris office, just a few minutes walk away.

Apparently, the town of Maun dates from 1915 when it was the centre of ranching and hunting operations with a 'Wild West Frontier Town' reputation. It's supposed to have lost that reputation but, despite the modern, low-rise buildings, I still thought it had that sort of feel. Wilderness Safaris had quite a large single-storey office complex, heavily air-conditioned. I didn't have a lot of time but, having connected to their Wi-Fi, I desperately tried to upload the text I'd pre-prepared since I'd been 'off the air' after leaving Kasane what seemed like months earlier. Then, saying 'Thank you' for the assistance, I hurried back to the airport to pass through immigration and security for the Air Botswana international flight to Johannesburg. This was operated by the BAe 146 - a small, 4-engined jet intended for fairly short 'legs' with short runways.

At O. R. Tambo, there was time to check in with Emirates and do some e-mails in the Emirates lounge before facing the seven and a half hour flight to Dubai in a B 777 - 300. I'd come full-circle - I looked out of the window of the Emirates Lounge and there, just a few hundred yards away, was the Protea Hotel I'd stopped at right at the beginning of my epic journey.

The Protea Hotel, O . R. Tambo, seen from the Emirates Lounge.

Photographs:

Leaving Vumbura Plains.
Flight to Maun.
O. R. Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg.

Vumbura Plains North (2)

Wednesday, 29th February 2012

After an early morning call a little after 5.30 a.m., I was collected at 6.00 a.m. and joined the 'convoy' of guests being collected for breakfast. The sun was just coming up over the swamps overlooked by the eating area. Shortly after 6.30 a.m. I set off on the morning drive with my guide Ona, accompanied by a young Boswanan lady auditor from DeLoitte's. The Wilderness Group make their accounts up to the end of February so the day of our drive was also the last day of the trading year.

We saw a number of stork, each perched near the top of a dead tree, giving the bird a good opportunity to spot prey below. A buffalo was mud bathing as we approached then he emerged to carry on munching grass. Nearby, there were two giraffe who, because of their height, have no competition for the leaves high in the trees. Later, we found a number of Tsessebe with their shiny, multi-hued hide. They are the fastest of all the antelopes but these were contentedly munching leaves nearer the ground.

One of the Tsessebe we found.

We stopped under the shade of a large tree in the centre of a large plain for a cup of tea and a biscuit. By the end of February, the waters are already rising and soon the whole area would be inundated. Then we looked at a group of six ostrich crossing the plain. There were three females (with grey feathers) and three male (with black feathers). They looked rather odd, wobbling out of sight in single file.

Another Land Rover had located part of a pack of wild dogs so, directed by radio messages, we went to have a look. We found five dogs, well concealed in long grass, avoiding the heat of the morning. From time to time, one or other animal would get up, look around, move slightly and lie down again. They looked very attractive with big eyes, mottled fur and huge, bat-like ears.

Wild Dogs are relentless hunters but are an Endangered Species in Botswana.

As we left the wild dogs to their slumbers, I heard a rumble that I at first thought was another Land Rover but which resolved itself as an aircraft apparently on approach to Vumbura Plains Airstrip. It was a Cessna 'Grand Caravan', the 12-passenger 'stretch' version of the classic Cessna single-engined high-wing monoplane.

We continued past a small pool with a number of species of birds around. A very young jackal walked past nearby, a spread-out group of handsome zebra continued to feed a few yards from a solitary buffalo and, not far away, a single elephant munched on grass. It's amazing that one sweep of the eye can see so many species co-existing.

A young Jackal.

Our route now took us across a deeply-rutted track where Ona was able to demonstrate his "Look No Hands" trick of letting go of the steering wheel and letting the vehicle steer itself in the deep ruts. This technique has been seriously refined for buses in at least one (expensive) scheme in the UK as a 'Guided Busway'.

By the time we reached to airstrip, the Cessna I'd seen landing was long gone, but there were still lots of people about. The logistical problems of running these camps doesn't just involve getting the guests in and out. The Botswanan staff are employed on the basis of a 3-month tour of duty followed by 1-month's leave to visit their families. Staff are flown in and out, just light the guests. The General Manager of Vumbura North and South was on hand at the airstrip, in a lemon yellow high visibility vest, to supervise the staff changeover when 39 staff were being flown home and an equivalent number would arrive.

A group of Botswanan staff going on leave wait for the aircraft which will take them home.

After Brunch, I repaired to my very spacious accommodation for a bit of relaxation and catching-up. At four, there was the usual Afternoon Tea. Following the morning departure of guests, there were just three of us remaining - a French lady with her adult son and myself. Rather than the game drive, I'd elected for the Canoe Trip. Historically, the local canoes - called "Mokoro" - were 'dug-outs', made by felling a suitable tree, dividing a length of trunk lengthwise and then shaping the features of a boat. Modern conservation practice abhors felling trees, of course, so I was amused to be told we'd be using fibreglass copies.

I discovered the French lady was also having the canoe trip so our Land Rover was quite full leaving camp - Ona driving, two guests and three camp staff. One member of staff was Boat Captain and Poler, one was a Poler but I'm not sure of the function of the third. We drove for the best part of an hour, Ona periodically stopping to explain
some of the animal tracks in the sand. Finding a Python track, I think Ona was a little disappointed when I accepted his invitation to join him outside the vehicle - apparently some guests are too frightened to descend from the vehicle. Ona also used the Land Rover as an impromptu classroom for the staff members, discussing the different grasses which are found and their suitability for thatching. Since the vehicle would self-steer reasonably well in the rutted sand, Ona delighted in releasing the wheel and turning to his 'class', whilst checking references in his guide to the Okavango species.

The impromptu classroom as the Land Rover steers itself.

Eventually, we arrived at a quiet stretch of lily-covered water with a simple wooden landing stage. A number of fibreglass canoes were stored upside-down nearby, together with long poles made from straight branches around two inches diameter stripped of bark. Three Mokoro were launched - the French guest and Poler in one, the Boat Captain and myself in the second and Ona with the other member of camp staff took turns poling the third. It was all very leisurely. Both guests were presented with a necklace, simply made from a water lily flower with a length of stalk split and knotted to form a 'chain'. We stopped to look at Reed Frogs, each clinging to a reed, a little above the water. They only grow to one or two inches in length but, at night and in large numbers, they kick up a furious racket with their calling.

This silver-coloured Reed Frog is only about one inch long.

We were moving in clear, shallow water perhaps two or three feet deep. At one point, the Boat Captain pointed out a circular hole in the sandy lake bottom - a 'nest' in which one fish (Tilapia, I think) lays her eggs before covering them over and leaving them.

A neatly-excavated fish nest.

We spent a very pleasant hour on the water. The tranquility was wonderful and I was sorry when we made our way back to the landing place, pausing for photographs before making 'landfall'.

Jan and the Boat Captain.

After an hour stretched out in the flat-bottomed boat, I had a bit of trouble getting limbs to work so that I could get out but, once vertical, I was fine. As the sun went down, a little before seven, we paused for the 'Sundowner'. I think we were all on soft drinks apart from the French guest.

Sunset at the Landing Place.

It was starting to get dark on the journey back to Camp. We passed a group of zebra, eyes reflecting the flash from my camera as I recorded them splashing through water. As it became fully dark, Ona used the powerful red-filtered electric hand lamp I described in an earlier post. The lamp caught two heavy forms padding out of the Bush towards us - two Spotted Hyenas. We stopped and, as the one Hyena made a closer inspection of our vehicle, I took the picture below. As usual, the animals showed mild curiosity but no fear.

A Spotted Hyena makes a closer inspection of our Land Rover.

I arrived back at Vumbura Plains North tired but happy. A little after eight in the evening, we assembled for our last dinner, prepared by the resident chef Wayne (who hailed from near Oxford). The manager of the Vumbura Camps joined us for dinner (he originated in Scunthorpe).

I'd agreed with Ona that my last activity would be a Night Drive and we set off a little after 9.30 p.m. for an enchanting three hours in the Bush. I didn't attempt any photography on this trip. I'd been warned that Night Drives are often not very 'productive' and so it proved but can you imagine the atmosphere out in the Bush, miles from anywhere, especially when stopped, headlights out and engine off to listen for any alarm calls from animals or birds? There is no 'light pollution' so the dark sky offers a vivid canopy of bright stars. We were south of the Equator so the Constellations were largely unfamiliar to me. Later in our drive, the moon began to cast an eerie, grey light over the proceedings.

Even in the darkness, I was surprised at the number of birds still flying. Most (not all) were Nightjars. As their name suggests, they are a nocturnal species. In addition to monitoring the various animal tracks, trackers listen carefully to bird and animal calls. An Alarm Call from a certain animal may give a clue to the position of a night predator, for instance a leopard. Ona was also using the powerful red-filtered hand lamp to scan the surrounding area. We found plenty of leopard tracks and buffalo tracks but not the animals themselves.

We'd been following Hyena tracks for a while when the lamp caught a single, bulky shape emerging from the Bush on our left - a Spotted Hyena. We immediately stopped and the Hyena walked to the front of the Land Rover. The lower part of the front pushes all the long grass out of the way when moving so I supposed that it had gathered all sorts of interesting scents during our travels. The Hyena spent some time studying the lower front, seeming to confirm my assumption. Then, the animal raised itself up so that its head appeared above the bonnet and its large eyes seemed to lock with mine. For what seemed an age, but was probably just tens of seconds, we regarded one another. Now, all the guides seemed to agree that, provided you stay within the outline of the vehicle, wildlife will not recognise you as separate from the vehicle itself. But, particularly after this soundless mutual contemplation, I find it hard to accept that the animals are unaware of what they're looking at. The Hyena then lowered himself and walked along the left side of the vehicle. Apparently satisfied with his inspection, he then turned away and unhurridly plodded back into the Bush from which he had appeared. I found it a remarkable meeting.

We made out way back to Camp and I decided that it might be prudent to miss the early game drive the next day as it was also the day of my long journey returning to the U.K.

Photographs:

Vumbura Plains Safari Camp.
Vumbura Plains: Game Drive 2.
Vumbura Plains Mokoro Trip.

Vumbura Plains North

Tuesday, 28th February 2012

Well, I reached Vumbura Plains safely around 3.00 p.m. and checked into the very lavish accommodation. I discovered that Vumbura Plains has two separate Camps (North and South) a few hundred yards apart. Each Camp is self-contained, apart from sharing a single Souvenir Shop which is situated halfway along the boardwalk which interconnects the two Camps. My accommodation was in the North Camp but I did take a walk to the Souvenir Shop and the South Camp before I left. In general, the building style is less Ethnic and more architect-designed but everything is provided to a high standard.

My room was similar to the others. It was approached by its own spur boardwalk off the main boardwalk. A tall wooden fence with a door ensured the privacy of the large area of decking to the side of the room itself. This decking had a covered seating area and a plunge pool all overlooking the swampland. The walls of the large, thatched room were, for the most part, either clear plastic or fine mesh. At night, the staff rolled down blinds on the outside of the building. The room itself featured a sunken seating area facing the swampland, a large bed, a generous shower area, a pair of wash hand basins and a separate cubicle with a water closet. Internal curtains could be used to provide privacy to the occupants around the washing areas. There was also a dressing area with extensive racking along one side covered by curtains to act as a wardrobe. A second area of decking could be reached by a door near the wash hand basins and this area featured an outside shower. This bare list of the accommodation doesn't do justice to the quality of the fittings and the obvious care which was taken in construction. It was all very impressive and comfortable.

My room at Vumbura Plains.

Having briefly sampled the features of my room, I returned to the central area for afternoon tea before setting out for a Game Drive with a few guests and Ona, our guide. A number of the tracks we used were flooded and we forded long sections where the clear, unpolluted water came almost to the top of the tyres. All the guides seem to have a lot of confidence in the Land Rover. After a while, we came to a family of Elephants, moving through the Bush in their normal, unhurried fashion. Then, I saw my first Blue Wildebeest - or, rather, my first couple of dozen Wildebeest for they are gregarious animals and tend to congregate in herds in fairly open country where they graze on short grasses.

The Blue Wildebeest.

A little later, we watched a small herd of Impala. While most grazed quietly, two males were locking horns in what appeared to be a fairly ritualised contest for they soon disengaged and carried on grazing. On another flooded section, a Hamerkop was standing motionless in the shallows, intently peering at the water. They will stand like this for ages, waiting for frogs or other aquatic life which they prey on. The bird took no notice of us as our wheels passed within a few inches and, as I looked back, he was still there.

A Hamerkop standing motionless in the shallows.

It quickly became quite dark as we were returning to the Camp around a quarter to seven. The Land Rovers carry a powerful electric lamp (500,000 Candles, I think) which the guides plug in when necessary. To avoid distracting the wildlife, a red filter is fitted. The lamp is hand-held and the technique is to sweep the beam from left to right ahead of the vehicle, paying particular attention to trees where there may be all sorts of creatures. If the beam passes the face of an animal, two bright "cat's eyes" appear, even if the details of the body are hidden. Gear-changing becomes something of a problem when the lamp is in use, usually resulting in the driver using one hand for the lamp, one for the gear lever and letting the vehicle steer itself. Ona had been following Leopard tracks and suddenly the animal we'd been tracking loomed up out of the darkness of the Bush. The animal didn't seem disturbed by us, even when I took (not very good) photographs with a flash. Finally, I took a couple of pictures using the powerful red-filtered lamp.

The Leopard, illuminated by the hand-held lamp on the Land Rover.

They're handsome creatures and it seemed appropriate to meet up in the dark, which is when they do their hunting. I found it a moving encounter and a fitting climax to our game drive. Then, it was Dinner and Bed prior to a busy following day, as usual.

Photographs:

Vumbura Plains Safari Camp.
Vumbura Plains: Game Drive 1.

On to Vumbura Plains

Tuesday, 28th February 2012

Following the usual early start, I had a final morning drive at King's Pool with my guide Od (said 'Oh-Dee'). This resulted in the usual sightings of birds, Impala and Elephants. We visited the injured Hippopotamus who had finally died, prompting more musings about life and death in the Bush. Later, at one of the green-covered Pans, I was amused to see a group of Whitefaced Duck apparently standing to attention.

A group of Whitefaced Ducks apparently standing to attention in the slime-covered shallows of a Water Hole.

Od followed Leopard footmarks in the sand of the track we were on and, sure enough, we eventually came to a leopard part-hidden in the grass, enjoying the morning sunshine and completely ignoring our arrival. We spent a little while studying the handsome animal from different viewpoints and eventually he raised himself, to display the complex markings which are called 'rosettes' (rather than 'spots'). At first, we thought he was going to move away but then he sank down into the grass again for some more relaxation.

The Leopard displays his streamlined profile and the variety of 'rosette' markings.

The variety of game was amazing. We passed Giraffe, Zebra, Elephants and had an encounter with a playful group of young wild dogs. Although they tend to sleep during the day, they were forever getting up, playing with other group members for a while, and then settling down again. At one of the Pans, we found a single Hippopotamus. Even the small Pans are often the daytime home of a Hippo.

Two of the group of Wild Dogs.

Our route back to the Camp took us past Chobe airstrip where we found Cessna A2-BOK 'tied down'. This was the aircraft that had brought a DeLoitte auditor to King's Pool as part of the end-of-year audit. I'd seen the auditor and his Pilot overnighting at the Camp. I discovered that Chobe airstrip was provided with a W.C. (connected to a septic tank) and washing facilities. I liked the improbable nature of a flush toilet out in the Bush and, of course, couldn't resist recording the facilities on film. Near the Camp, we came across another family group (male, female, youngster) of Elephant. They had clearly been for water as the splash marks on their hides revealed.

Elephant Mother and Baby.

After my usual Brunch, I said my farewells at this very friendly Camp and at noon Od drove me to the airstrip for my transfer to my final Camp on this tour, Vumbura Plains.

The Cessna 206 turned up on time but already had three passengers - apparently a middle-class Indian family with the sari-clad wife seated up the front with the pilot, and the husband in a business suit next to his long-haired teenage daughter in jeans and T-shirt in the middle row. The rear row of seats already seemed overful with their large, black solid-framed suitcases. The friendly pilot shuffled their luggage about so that there was just room for me to take up a rather cramped position next to the cases. I always read the safety instructions in an aircraft, even if it's a type I'm familiar with, and I was surprised to find that, this time, I was travelling with Mack Air as my previous flights in the Okavango had been with Wilderness Air. I learned that there is some co-operation between the companies to minimise the number of movements. The Okavango from the air is a fascinating area, with many contrasts. There are trees, bushes, numerous clearly-visible animal tracks and Pans of standing water.

Aerial view of one of the many circular 'Pans', surrounded by trees.

Our 30-minute flight took us to Stanley's Airstrip - a rather temporary-looking affair. This was the destination for the other three passengers. A Land Rover from the Sanctuary Retreat was waiting to meet them and their luggage. I didn't know Sanctuary Retreats but apparently they opened their first luxury lodge in Kenya in 1999 and now operate a number of camps in Africa in addition to expedition cruises.

Final approach to the airstrip at Stanley's.

Once all the luggage had been transferred and I was happily installed in the front right seat, we took off for Vumbura Plains - a flight of about twenty minutes over a diverse landscape of bush and watercourses. The airstrip at Vumbura didn't look much more permanent than Stanley's. Being used to major airports with hard-edged tarmac runways, the strips of bare sand with ragged edges as the grass attempts to subdue the sand looked rather odd, but they seemed to work well enough.

At the airstrip, I was met by my guide for Vumbura Plains, Ona (say 'Oh-Narr') and we set off to the Camp. It took around an hour to get there but we were rewarded by a host of sightings including birds, a Kudu, Impala, Warthogs. We met a group of at least five zebra. I couldn't help thinking that they looked like horses with a very extrovert paint job. We also saw Giraffe and a herd of at least a dozen Buffalo.

A group of Zebras with a Warthog trotting away in the background.

Photographs:

King's Pool: Game Drive 5.
From King's Pool to Vumbura Plains.

King's Pool (3)

Monday, 27th February 2012

At King's Pool (I noted Wilderness Safaris don't seem to use the apostrophe), morning wake-up call comes at 5.30 a.m. and you are collected at 6.0 a.m. Walking to the main building complex, I could see that it was lighter than on previous days at that hour. Good weather seemed in prospect. I had a light 'Early Breakfast' and was ready to depart at 6.30 a.m.

It took me some time to complete this post, but it goes along the lines of "Jan looks at a lot of animals and birds".

There were three Land Rover lined up when we left - two of them were to accommodate a group of travel agents who'd arrived the previous afternoon. They had their own programme which included a visit by road to Savuti Camp. Od took the American couple and the writer to find more game. Our track came to a triangular junction where a family of Warthogs (male, female, four young) were just coming out of the 'side road'. They walked ahead of us for some distance, completely unconcerned at our presence. We followed them slowly, until they turned off our route and took a smaller track leading through the Bush.

The family of Warthogs turned off our route and continued on a smaller track into the Bush.

We came across a couple of male Impala 'sparring' but it seemed rather ritualised and they soon disengaged. Nearby, there were about fifteen female Impala. Next, we found another family of Warthogs on the move, this time displaying "Follow me" with their tails. A number of birds were by a tranquil Pan, including what I think was a Tawny Eagle, keeping watch from high in a dead tree. I managed to get a few shots of a male Common Waterbuck displaying the distinctive broad white ring on the rump. Then we passed group of three Ostrich, hurrying about their business, the single male with black plumage, the two females with grey.

Three Ostriches.

Somehow, Od spotted a Leopard Tortoise almost invisible lying in the sun-spattered grass. As we moved on, we saw four more Ostrich. Od had been driving towards a group of Vultures which could see circling lazily high in the sky. Near a fallen tree, there were a number of Vultures on the ground, feeding on an at first unrecognisable carcass. It appeared to be an Impala and Od suggested that it was most probably a Leopard kill from earlier in the day. Having eaten what he could, he'd probably dragged the remains near to the fallen tree, with a view to returning later. But the scavengers had spotted the carcass and, in their feeding frenzy, were efficiently disposing of the remains. Od pointed out that this prevented flesh from becoming rotten and helped to prevent the spread of disease. A Bateleur, an eagle with a stocky appearance and a short tail, watched the proceedings from a nearby tree as the various Vultures justled around the carcass.

Vultures feeding on an earlier 'Kill'.

We left the Vultures to it and carried on, to stop again at a Mudhole where a family of Warthogs were plastering themselves liberally. Do you remember the Flanders and Swann lyric (not dedicated to Warthogs) "Mud, Mud, Glorious Mud, Nothing quite like it for cooling the Blood...". It may look amusing to see Warthogs streaked in mud but, of course, they adopt the practice for strictly practical reasons.

"Mud, Mud, Glorious Mud".

We were on our way back to Camp now. We paused to watch a group of about twenty Impala and watch the antics of a nearby troop of Chacma baboon before arriving back at King's Pool, ready for our Brunch.

In the late afternoon, we set off once again with our guide Od to see what animals could be seen. On a broad plain, we came upon a family group of elephants, contentedly grazing. I never tire of watching elephants. They are improbable-looking creatures but, like most species in the wild, radiate a natural dignity. Although such large animals are capable of wreaking considerable havoc if so minded, they generally appear quite peaceable. My reaction is normally one of wonderment, not fear.

Adult elephant in the afternoon sun.

It's the variety of wildlife and the juxtaposition of different species that I found so impressive in the Okavango. Soon after watching the elephants, we came upon a female Common Waterbuck with her single youngster.

A female Common Waterbuck with her single youngster.

As we passed through a wetter area, we spotted a Water Monitor, with its elongated snout, scurrying through the grass. Od decided to return to the area where we'd watched the vultures in the morning. The birds had moved on and only a few bones and a little fur remained.

The remains of the morning's 'kill'.

Od was now following recent lion tracks and shortly after passing a group of giraffe, we found three lions stretched out and enjoying the afternoon sun. They took no interest in the approach of our Land Rover - yawning seemed to be their most pressing concern.

Lions enjoying the afternoon sun.

After a few minutes, the older lioness stretched, got up and set off along the track we were on. The other two lions followed. They appeared in no great hurry as we slowly followed.

Three lions walking, with our Land Rover bringing up the rear.

After walking for about ten minutes, the lions lay down again - this time right in the middle the track. We watched, fascinated, for some time but it was clear that the lions though it was still far to warm to do other than occasionally move a few feet to find a different spot to relax.

Od turned the vehicle round and we set off back towards the Camp. The encounter with the three lions had lasted three quarters of an hour. Od took us to the river bank for the 'Sundowner' drink, passing a group of Chacma Baboons on the way. It was just after 7.00 p.m. and getting dark as we stood on the river bank, carefully watched from the other side of the river by a single hippopotamus, almost submerged in the water. Then it was back to Camp and prepare for our evening meal.

Photographs:

King's Pool Safari Camp.
King's Pool: Game Drive 3.
King's Pool: Game Drive 4.

King's Pool (2)

Sunday, 26th February 2012

I was 'paired' with a very friendly couple from Denver for the Game Drives. On Sunday morning, we set off at about 6.30 a.m. and soon encountered a profusion of birdlife, including a good sighting of a mature, male Saddlebilled Stork.

Od, our guide told us about an injured hippopotamus that had not moved for a few days and was expected to die. The conservation practices adopted in these areas mean that there is a strict non-interventionist policy. If animals are injured, they are left to die in their own time. The hippopotamus was almost hidden in the bush, some distance from water, still alive but collapsed and not moving. There were various visible wounds around one eye and the animal was presumably seriously dehydrated. Only the occasional blinking of the eye confirmed that it was, in fact, still alive. Despite its weakened state, no other animal had yet preyed upon it. The sight triggered a lot of musing about death and our attitudes towards it.

We made our way through the bush, passing a small group of Kudu, to the river where we found at least nine hippopotamus almost submerged, carrying out their usual watching brief. The large dominant male occasionally displayed his massive teeth and other hippos would rise up, take a breath, and sink down again. This can go on for ages and yet it is quite difficult to break away and leave them to their languid rhythms.

Next, we passed a herd of about twenty Impala. This must be one of the most photographed species in Africa. They are handsomely-proportioned with attractive red and white colouring marked out with lines of contrasting black hair.

A herd of Impala.

Next, a family group of elephants appeared on our left and slowly crossed our track, pausing briefly to observe us, before moving off into the woodland on our right.

An family group of Elephants.

A little later, we found our track blocked by another herd of impala. They moved to one side, in a rather grudging fashion, so that we could carefully pass. On our right, two giraffe were quietly working away in the trees, stripping the leaves. Suddenly, our guide Od stopped to point out a tiny Terrapin, only about 50 m.m. long. With its grey shell matching the colour of the sandy track, I was amazed that he'd spotted it from his driving position. Whilst we were stopped, he pointed out some of the tracks left by animals moving up and down the primitive 'roads' which the guides use to help them locate game.

After a number of bird sightings, Od stopped again, to point out the widespread damage done to trees by elephants stripping the bark to access the internal fluids. Remembering that elephants are also largely responsible for the creation of 'Pans' which help to provide water for many species, they can be regarded as real 'Terraforming' animals.

Od, our guide, points out bark-stripping carried out by elephants which will result in tree death.

As we returned to Camp, we passed a family group of Warthogs, plodding through the bush in their customary, rather self-important way.

A female Warthog with two of her young.

After the morning Game Drive, we had a very leisurely Brunch. One (pronounced 'Oh-Knee'), the delightful Botswanan lady Joint General Manger joined me for the meal and we had a fascinating discussion.

I then retired to my very comfortable accommodation. Although the sun was quite warm, I decided that my small Plunge Pool had not warmed sufficiently to do more than dangle my legs in the water. At twenty to two, there was extremely loud thunder, the wind started to rise and it rained. The temperature plummeted, of course.

The weather had improved by the time we enjoyed Afternoon Tea and we set off for the afternoon game drive in good spirits. Our guide took us to a different part of the river where we saw a single hippopotamus. On the opposite bank of the river, there was a solitary Buffalo - the only buffalo I saw at King's Pool. Then we found a small group of Chacma Baboon. The Guide Book says they often associate with Impala but on this occasion, they were with Kudu.

A rather nice group of female Kudu (with a Yellowbilled Oxpecker on her back), young Kudu and Chacma Baboon.

As we continued, we found the inevitable herd of Impala and a number of birds, including a rather severe-looking Yellowbilled Hornbill). Near the river, there were two African Fish Eagles sitting on a small hillock rising out of the swamp. We spotted a single elephant some way off standing in a dry creek next to the river, so our guide drove to meet up with what was a family group, returning to the Bush after taking water.

A little after 6.00 p.m., a group of Elephant walk back to the Bush after watering at the river.

We passed an ancient-looking tree which had large burrows dug out at its base. Our guide explained that this was where Warthogs prefer to sleep. We saw another group of elephant in the distance as we returned to Camp. It was dark before we arrived. We met another 4 x 4 which had been on a Game Drive and followed his tail lights back to our destination.

Photographs:

King's Pool Safari Camp.
King's Pool: Game Drive 1.
King's Pool: Game Drive 2.

King's Pool Safari Camp

Saturday, 25th February 2012

As I explained in an earlier post, my stay at King's Pool was a re-arrangement, owing to flooding having put the airstrip at Savuti-Under-Canvas (my original destination) out of action.

This time, no light aircraft transfer was involved because King's Pool and Savuti share the same airstrip - the oddly-named 'Chobe'. So, Savuti would take me by road to the airstrip where I was to be handed over to King's Pool staff in their own vehicle to continue by road to King's Pool. When I later described this process to my American friend John, he said it reminded him of the inevitable prisoner handover scene in spy movies on a bridge in Berlin!

Farewells at Savuti. The group in the background are returning to their private aircraft at Chobe Airstrip.

I said my farewells at Savuti to Lets and the camp management. A second Land Rover was loading-up with the private party returning to their Pilatus aircraft at Chobe Airstrip, but we preceded them along the rutted tracks to the airstrip. As we arrived at Chobe Airstrip, a Cessna 'Grand Caravan' registration A2-BUF was landing but it would be a few days before I had the chance to fly in one of these impressive aircraft.

Cessna 'Grand Caravan' A2-BUF at Chobe Airstrip.

My Land Rover and driver was already waiting so, with my luggage in the back, I took the front passenger seat and we set off immediately, leaving the Airstrip by a different track which led (after a lot of the usual bumping about) to King's Pool.

The location is named after King Gustav of Sweden (presumably Gustav V) who had a shooting lodge on the site. In order to develop tourism in Botswana, the country has largely eliminated game hunting in favour of 'photographic safaris'. I received the customary welcome, including the 'Welcome Drink' and was conducted to my home for the next three days. This was another huge, thatched structure with a large area of decking outside complete with steamer chairs, plunge pool, outside shower and a round, thatched 'gazebo' with a double mattress. All the rooms overlook a branch in the river and are spaced well apart so that the guest can enjoy splendid isolation.

My accommodation at King's Pool. The 'Welcome Drink' is on the small, round table to the left,

I'd a fair amount of 'housekeeping' to do, sorting out laundry, copying photographs and the like so it was soon time for Afternoon Tea. After refreshments, we were all keen for our late afternoon game drive and, with other guests, we set off. Our guide was Od (said 'Oh-Dee'). Less than 15 minutes from Camp it started to rain. This was no shower but heavy, penetrating rain. The modified Land Rovers are open-sided and the high canvas roof, whilst effective as a sun shade, offers no protection against incessant rain. We all quickly donned the heavy-duty ponchos distributed by our guide and tried to protect our possessions, particularly cameras. When the guide suggested we turn back, the spirit of adventure seemed to get the better of us and we all elected to press on. But after another five or ten minutes of the downpour, our enthusiasm had been somewhat dampened. Our guide presented the compelling argument that, even if we were daft enough to continue, none of the animals we'd hoped to see were so foolish as to remain in the open so we reluctantly agreed to abandon the trip. When we arrived back at the Camp, we were met by staff with a supply of umbrellas to assist us back to our rooms.

I was amazed at just how wet I'd become, despite wearing a heavy-duty poncho but a shower and a change of clothes quickly restored my good spirits. By the time we met up for the Evening Meal, the rain had stopped and it was quite a pleasant evening. After an enjoyable meal, I retired to bed so as to be ready for the early Game Drive next morning.

Photographs:

On to King's Pool.
King's Pool Safari Camp.

Savuti (3)

Saturday, 25th February 2012

The writer, the couple from Holland and our guide Lets took a simple breakfast before setting off a little after 6.00 a.m. for what would be my last Game Drive at Savuti.

We soon came upon Giraffe, already browsing amongst the trees, and Elephants, munching grass. This time, there seemed to be large numbers of elephant and they didn't appear worried by our presence, despite the herd having a number of young.

"...they didn't appear worried by our presence, despite the herd including a number of young."

The herd was moving, in an unhurried way, towards the water so Lets drove to a position where we could watch the elephants as they arrived at the water's edge. After a while, the elephants started to emerge from the trees and assemble on the river margin. They'd chosen to do this at the exact spot where there were a number of hippopotamus almost submerged in the water. The two species watched each other in silence for some time and I wondered what would happen next.

Elephants and Hippopotamus watching each other in silence.

After a while, the Hippopotamus slowly turned away and moved further along the Channel, where they re-grouped and continued to study the elephants from their customary, mainly submerged, positions. The elephants started to cross the river in single-file adopting their normal, stately gait.

Elephants starting to cross the river, watched by Hippopotamus.

Once the initial group of elephants emerged from the water, more started to cross, the smaller ones barely visible above the water. As they crossed, other elephants emerged from the trees and gathered at the water's edge.

More elephants cross the river.

Elephants need vast amounts of water to avoid dehydration. Some of the elephants paused to take on water before crossing the river. Elephants can suck up a few litres of water at a time with the trunk which is then discharged into the mouth.

A young elephant taking on water before crossing the river.

I never managed a proper count of the elephants but there must have been a couple of dozen. I was sorry when we left our riverbank location and this marvellous elephant experience to continue our game drive.

As we drove, we saw numerous birds like the Ground Hornbill and the Woodland Kingfisher. We had the inevitable sighting of a group of Impala before stopping at one of the many Pans for morning tea. Pans are waterholes created by generations of elephants, digging with their feet to create holes which fill with rainwater. Over a long period of time, these excavations can grow into large, often round, pools which can hold rainwater for some time before evaporation eventually dries them out.

We stopped at this typical Pan for morning tea.

When we arrived, there were a number of birds around the litchen-covered water of the pan but I almost missed a single hippopotamus, almost totally submerged. Once the hippo came up for air, there was no mistaking his huge bulk before he re-submerged. Following refreshments, it just remained for us to complete our journey back to the Camp, in good time for Brunch after which I readied myself for transfer to my next Safari Camp.

I'd booked to go to Savuti-Under-Canvas next but, on my arrival at Savuti, the camp management had informed me that the airstrip at Savuti-Under-Canvas was flooded and temporarily out of use. Rather than face a four hour journey by road to reach Savuti-Under-Canvas, they had made arrangements for me to visit King's Pool instead. King's Pool, they pointed out, was a Premier (rather than a Classic) Safari Camp and the change thus represented an upgrade, at no cost to me. So I readied myself for the trip to King's Pool, which I'll tell you about next time.

Pictures of Savuti Safari Camp are here.

Pictures of the final Game Drive at Savuti are here.