Friday 22 March 2013

Back to Yangon

Events of Friday, 22nd February 2013

The Aureum Palace Hotel provided a good cooked breakfast so, by the time my guide and driver arrived, I was checked out and ready to leave.

The Lobby of the Aureum Palace Hotel, with Reception on the left.

We returned to the Mandalay-Yangon Highway by backtracking along the route we'd travelled on our arrival the day before. I'm not a very good car passenger, so I found the long journey south rather tiring. I anxiously counted down the distance markers (provided every 100 metres, I think). Once again, there was very little traffic.

The Highway south.

There was a Rest Stop about halfway to the end of the Highway, where I expected us to stop but, after some hesitation by the driver, we kept going. I think he missed the turn. Shortly after, we did turn off to reach a modern petrol station I'd spotted a few hundred yards from the highway.

The petrol filling station, just off the Highway. Ours was the only vehicle on the forecourt.

As we approached distance marker '0', I sadly realised that it merely denoted the end of the Highway. We were still a good way from our destination and, although we were still travelling on a dual carriageway, because of all the local traffic, our speed had reduced. I thought that we were near Bago and, after a few minutes, I had confirmation. The nearer we got to Yangon, the worse the traffic became. Our driver attempted some diversions but it seemed that these alternative routes were known to all the other drivers.

I'd agreed with the guide that, on the way to the Park Royal Hotel where I was to spend the night, we'd stop at the Taw Win Centre on Pyay Road. This would allow me to return to the Tab Book Centre where, on my previous visit, I'd purchased some interesting books written in English on Burmese History. That earlier visit is described here. Eventually, we reached the Taw Win Centre and, once we'd located the bookshop, I spent a hectic time going through the bookshelves and selecting a number of books for purchase. We then made somewhat better time on the last part of the journey to the Park Royal Hotel. I released my guide and driver for the day, arranging the final transfer from the hotel to the airport on the following morning.

I'd intended to just relax in the hotel but, after a shower and a change of clothes, I thought it a pity not to find out a little more about the railway - Yangon Central Station was only ten minutes walk away and I had a tantalising view of the station buildings from my room.


The view of the gilded towers of Yangon Central Station from the
Park Royal Hotel.


So I walked to the station, took some more pictures around the station to pore over on my return and decided to walk east a little way on the road parallel to the railway on the north side. The road quickly deteriorated into a track between a number of fairly humble wooden buildings. I was definitely "on the wrong side of the tracks". Most of the buildings had rusting, corrugated galvanised iron roofs, but at least one (in need of repair) was tiled.

Roof tiles on a dwelling near Yangon Central station.

I was intrigued, because the design was very similar to tiles I'd seen in Myanma Railway Museum the day before.

Tiles exhibited in Myanma Railway Museum.

The track continued, weaving between wooden homes before coming to an abrupt stop at a brick wall dividing the houses from the railway. A home-made bamboo ladder was leaned against the wall indicating that it was no 'dead-end' to the locals.

View of the railway from the 'dead-end'.

There was no ladder on the railway side of the wall so, although I could see the footpath worn in the grass by passing feet, I decided it might be unwise to risk injury on the evening before I flew home. I back-tracked and continued east on a more major road, before turning right to take pictures from the bridge where the road crossed over the railway.

Then I continued east on the south side of the railway along the main road to Pazundaung, with multi-storey buildings on both sides of the road providing commercial premises on the ground floor and apartments above. It took me a few moments to realise the function of the many thin ropes which dangled from the upper stories, necessitating frequent avoiding action on my part. Each rope was weighted with a bulldog clip or, in one case, a small moulded plastic basket. Of course! They were "letter boxes" allowing residents to collect mail or other small deliveries without the tiresome necessity of descending perhaps seven floors and then climbing up again.


Ingenious letter boxes.

Along this road, part of the width of the pavement had been built-up a foot or more above the road, forming a causeway. Here, the intention was clear - the road was clearly subject to periodic flooding and the causeway gave some protection to ground floor premises.

Turning left off the road, I came to the footbridge crossing the railway at Pazundaung. The station buildings are actially located on the footbridge. The bridge provided a good vantage point for a few more photographs. By this time, I didn't relish the walk back to my hotel, so I decided to purchase a ticket and return by train (giving more photographic opportunities). The booking clerk called for the stationmaster who had quite good English. Of course, I had to pay one U.S. Dollar for a 'Foreigner Ticket' to travel just one stop - the same fare would have taken me all round the Circle Line!

I was soon back at Yangon Central Station where I'd just enough energy to take a few more pictures. The signalmen at the Power Box were clearly intrigued by a European woman taking photographs and they all posed on the balcony.

Yangon Central Power Signal Box. All the signalmen came onto the balcony to have their picture taken.

And so the holiday was almost over. The following morning, I was to fly by Thai to Bangkok, change, and make the long flight back to London. Perhaps not a trip to everybody's taste but, for me, another wonderful set of experiences.

My Pictures

Aureum Palace Hotel, Naypyitaw.
Myanmar's Highway.
Park Royal Hotel, Yangon.
Yangon (2013).
Yangon Central Station.
Pazundaung Station.
By train: Pazundaung - Yangon.