Saturday 17 February 2007

The Train at the end of the world

17-Feb-2007: Last morning shipboard, last morning Ushuaia. Arise at 6.00 am, finish packing, take case down to reception and hang around in dining room talking to other early risers while we wait for food to appear. By 7.45 am, I've left the boat and am walking the length of the jetty, dragging my single piece of wheeled luggage behind me and with my 'critical items' in a shoulder bag. I pass a number of other cruise boats, some of which are already boarding passengers. A cheery 'buenos dias' a few times gets me through port security and then I'm outside the gate. I was told there'd be taxis but, of course, there aren't. Within a few minutes, I've spotted a passing taxi, flagged it down and, once the traffic lights change in his favour, he comes to pick me up.

By 8.20 am, I'm at the railway. It's still raining so the huge woodburning stove in the main waiting room is very welcome. The girl from the shop remembers me from my last brief visit and asks me to wait. It's facinating watching as staff arrive for work and greet one another warmly. The trio who entertain waiting passengers arrive, set up their instruments (violin, string base and keyboard) and start making music. Soon, Isabela arrives and plans are made. I buy a ticket, sign a bilingual disclaimer and am kitted out with a new set of rather smart overalls, hat and gloves. Tour buses start to arrive and the place is soon thronged with passengers. I am to travel on the second train, so I watch the first train depart. I'm introduced to my smiling driver who, on this occasion, will drive and fire so as to leave room for me and a lovely girl from operations who will serve as translator.

I have a wonderful round trip on the footplate and then we all repair to the restaurant for coffee and a talk. They insist on giving me various souvenirs and I spend some money in the shop. I have to make an entry in the visitors' book and I see that in September last year they hosted an international conference on steam traction attended by David Morgan. They ask my opinion on a number of aspects of the operation of tourist railways. They insist on providing transport to the airport to check in my bag. I'd originally intended to make a final trip into town but, after the delays checking in, I decide to sit it out at the airport, where I find a number of my former shipmates.

My pictures of 'Ferro Carril Fin Del Mundo'.

The next leg takes me by Lan Chile, via two intermediate stops, to Santiago. Just over half an hour from Ushuaia and we are landing at the rather bleak airport at Punta Arenas, Chile. The 150-odd passengers of the A320 have to disembark, with all hand baggage, to complete Chilean immigration formalities. All this takes some time, but eventually we`re back on the aircraft heading for our second stop at Puerto Montt (where we keep our seats). Then, the final leg to Santiago, where we arrive on time but sit for over half an hour waiting for coaches to take us to the terminal. My luggage appears, I'm met as arranged so eventually I get to my bed at the Santiago Park Plaza (www.parkplaza.cl).