A special first-class offer from Eva Air, the Taiwanese carrier, encouraged me to go back to Taiwan after a break of more than twenty-five years. I also determined to stop off in Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. It was another wonderful trip. There follows my original e-mails produced on the trip, only lightly edited and preserving, I hope, the original breathless style.
Sunday, 19-Jun-2005:
In the 'front cabin' upstairs on an Eva Air 747 - just 8 of us. After take-off they served a reasonable dinner (starting with caviar) and then expected us to sleep (their seats, whilst not very modern, recline almost flat). And the supply of a duvet, rather than a blanket, was a distinct improvement. Watched 'Be Cool' and half of something else, then slept a bit. A couple of hours before Bangkok, they served a sort of breakfast, although it was mid-afternoon local time. Didn't go through immigration at Bangkok 'cos I had a connection to Saigon on an Air France flight. Some confusion because they don't man the transfer desks at quiet times (like Sunday afternoon) so eventually I and a young Vietnamese returning from Holland managed to check in at the Air France lounge. They made it up to us, though, because when we got to the gate they upgraded us both from economy to 'Affaires' (business class). Only a short flight but excellent with a very edible light meal. Arrived at dusk on time at Saigon or 'Ho Chi Minh City' (or, as Air France call it, 'Ho Chi Minh Ville'). Met the agent and transferred to the 'Sofitel Plaza Hotel'. I was glad to get a shower and change then decided to go for a walk, armed with a small map.The population is about 8 million, with about 3 million motor bikes (mainly Honda C50 or similar, either imported or made in Vietnam under license, but there are some 'Vespa' style). Road discipline is non-existent and the traffic never stops, so you just have to brave it crossing roads. Quite interesting in the dark with just a mass of headlights bearing down on you. Temperature still in the nineties Farenheight and Sunday's a day off (although most of the shops and cafes are open) so everybody's out, sitting around everywhere, talking. I found the British Trade Mission, the Post Office (open and thronged) the brick Notre Dame cathedral, City Hall (very over the top, presumably French colonial but nicely restored), a small Opera House (poor man's version of the Paris Opera), office blocks, shopping streets and the Saigon River. Lots of people at riverside cafes until the rain started. Then they instantly disappeared, huddled under voluminous plastic macs, driving away on scooters whilst the staff cleared away the chairs. Passed the Bason Shipyard and then navigated straight back to the hotel (I'm pleased to say - I was a bit wet when I got back). Well, that's enough for today - tomorrow I go on a tour up-country then Tuesday, I fly to Cambodia.Monday, 20-Jun-2005:
By car this morning south on Highway 1A to the important fishing port of My Tho in the Mekong. Everything from one man trawling from a small boat to much larger ocean going vessels. We charter a boat crewed by two (the helmsman steers the tiller with his foot) around islands in the river, passing large sand barges, each propelled by a powerful tug, taking away dredged sand for building purposes. We land on another island (pop. 300) which is now a tourist destination. Take honey tea at a bee farm (excellent, but I suspect you need the fresh limes they use to give it that 'kick'). Compulsory photograph with python around shoulders (didn't find out what connection between bees and pythons is). Then on to sample local fruits. Most not to my taste but the tiny bananas (called ladies fingers) are good.Then on to see coconut candy being made. Finished result had too much peanut for my palate. Then trip on a small boat along a quiet and attractive canal - one woman sitting on the bow paddling, one man in the stern also paddling. Then from little boat to pontoon, pontoon to our first boat and back to My Tho. Weather excellent during trip and during return to Saigon.I visit the curiously-named 'War Remnants in Vietnam' museum - essential but harrowing.
Population now is about 10% Catholic, rest Buddhist, Taoist or Confucian or a mixture. In the 1920s the Cao Dai (say "Cow Die") religion was founded to fuse these four beliefs - we visited one of their temples. But it was the 200-year old Confucian temple visited in the afternoon I found really spiritual.
There's an ongoing problem from injuries due to uncleared land mines and deformed children born to mothers who were affected by Agent Orange defoliant. The government has a programme to place such people in work so we visited 'Handicapped Handicraft' where they make beautiful inlay and lacquerwork. Watched the processes - it is incredibly intricate and time-consuming. Then, when I was in the showroom there was such a heavy tropical storm that the workshop flooded to a couple of inches and the showroom staff had to move some of the stuff of the floor because of water coming under the doors!
Back to hotel, shower, rest and meal then out for a walk in the dark again. It's the most terrifying place to be a pedestrian (or driver). Although there are some traffic lights, most junctions are uncontrolled and everybody just pushes ahead in a fairly good-natured way with a lot of horn blowing (as a warning - not out of irritation). I managed to walk as far as the railway station. As I expected, not much going on but there is one preserved steam locomotive outside (apparently French-built 2-8-2). Then managed to get back by taxi (driver had no English and couldn't read a map, but it was OK). And so to bed. I could easily spend a lot more time looking at Vietnam but tomorrow morning I fly to Cambodia.
My photographs of Vietnam are at Vietnam.
Tuesday, 21-Jun-2005:
Breakfast in HCM City, quick walk around local area to watch people going to work (a 2-chair barber 'shop' on the pavement doing good business caught my eye) then transfer to the airport. Vietnam Airlines flight by Airbus A340 to Siem Reap - only 1 hour in the air but a lot more hanging around on the ground.I had been warned to bring a passport photo to apply for a tourist visa on arrival. A long counter had about 8 men behind. You deliver your visa application, passport, money, photo to the first man and then go to the last man while the application moves from man to man. Amusing, but quite speedy. Armed with the visa, through immigration, checked baggage was waiting for me, through customs and met by tour guide for transfer to Seam Reap.
It's hard to believe there was bloody civil war waging in Cambodia less than 10 years ago. Once again, it's a constitutional monarchy, pop. 11 million, I think, and allegedly 90% Buddhist. Siem Reap is a provincial town re-inventing itself as a major tourist destination because Angkor Wat is less than 4 miles away.
I'm at 'La Residence', a joint Thai-Orient Express operation. Rooms are off open galleries on two stories arranged around a quadrangle with a swimming pool discreetly hidden amongst the palms. The building is modern but Khymer-style, massive wooden construction (probably reinforced concrete underneath). Very appealing. Room huge, tasteful, balcony overlooking quadrangle. Staff very friendly, always smiling. Today, hotel is quite empty (suits me), parties leaving and arriving on different dates, they say, but being rainy season it's also tourist low season. Good. Hot when I go for a walk round the town - about 35 C. There are now 200 hotels in Siem Reap, many new buildings, many shops catering for tourists. But an interesting Central Market and the usual plethora of roadside stalls plus an internet cafe (which I didn't stop to use - I'm in the hotel which is far more expensive for internet).
It's an agrarian society with plenty of poverty as evidenced by the street beggars. It prompts the usual philosophical ponderings. Is it right that we have so much and some of them so little? I can see how being a Buddhist might help, if you can believe you are suffering this for a better life in your next incarnation. Then on the way back there's these insistent but charming children selling postcards. Mao, On and Jimmy, two girls and a boy around 11, born entrepreneurs, full of life, intelligent, excellent command of English, with their own e-mail address. I have great hopes for Cambodia in the future if she can turn out people like this. That's meant to sound admiring, not condescending. On my return to the hotel, the rain started and was very heavy, then eased off and has now stopped.
This evening, treated myself to dinner in the hotel restaurant. I went outside on the terrace. With the traditional electric fans going, very pleasant and only me. I don't like all this air conditioning. Consomme followed by sea bass 'nouvelle cuisine' - really good. Tomorrow, I visit Angkor Wat. Then we'll see how many tourists are around! I'm here tomorrow night as well, so I may well give you my impressions.
My photographs of Cambodia are at Cambodia.
Wednesday, 22-Jun-2005:
Short version: Jan looked at a load of old temples.
Longer version: A thousand years ago the Khymer empire was much larger than modern Cambodia. The king first established a city on a mountain at Phnom Bakheng (see below) but later a new city was built nearby at Angkor Thom. The city was 2 miles square, with 20 ft stonewalls pierced by 5 elaborate stone gatehouses. The population of around 1 million lived in wooden houses of which nothing remains - the wooden king's palace was also lost. But the stone walls, gatehouses, temples, terraces and certain other buildings remain in ruined form. This morning, I clambered over them in the 37 degrees Celsius sticky heat with my guide.
In the temples and elsewhere, there is little plain stone - it is all elaborately carved, sometimes in shallow 'bas relief', sometimes in deep relief. It's a mind-blowing experience, although there were too many other tourists for my preference! By noon, I was happy to return to the haven of my hotel for a shower, a change and a snack. Thus revived, we went back to Angkor Wat. This is the temple everybody knows. It's huge - a rectangular site enclosed by a wall 3.5 miles long, outside which there's a moat (still wet) 600 feet wide. A causeway leads you across the moat to a massive gatehouse with 5 entrances (1 for king, 2 for priests, 2 for elephants). In the middle of the site is the temple itself, 700 feet by 600 feet at the first level. Inside the wall but outside the temple 20,000 workers lived during the construction phase! All around the first level are galleries with bas relief of thousands of figures depicting both Hindu legend and Khymer life. Preservation is variable but the effect is still stunning. There is a second level, smaller than the first, then a third level, still smaller. On the third level are the one large and four smaller towers you must know from photographs, arranged in a 'Quincunx' (like the face of a dice). But it's the exquisite proportions, the smaller but equally elegant buildings like the libraries, the bathing pools, reflecting pools, unexpected views and interconnections and stairs which make the whole so bewitching and so spiritual (if you can avoid the Japanese tour guide with the bullhorn - I kid you not).
With great reluctance I left the Wat and climbed the hill to the ruins at Phnom Bakheng mentioned above. This climb, on top of all the 70-degree-to-horizontal stairs I'd earlier climbed almost finished me off, and a lot of others climbing the hill to watch the sunset. On a good day, there are spectacular lighting effects on the view of Angkor Wat, but today was overcast and not a good sunset. Still worth the climb but, discovering that there's a zig-zag elephant track, I came down in a howdah on an elephant. The steepness of the elephant track threatens to throw you out at every turn, but the elephants are remarkably sure-footed (and the company claims to have insurance!).
Back to the hotel, another shower, a meal and this session on the internet. Now 10.25pm. And so to bed. Tomorrow, more temples then in the evening I fly to Bangkok.
Thursday, 23-Jun-2005:
Now in the departure lounge in Siem Reap airport, waiting for Bangkok flight. Thursday started with a 20 minute helicopter flight over Angkor Wat and other temples in the vicinity. Then, we proceeded by car. I haven't got all the temple names clear yet but we started with a marvellous, delicate small temple with few visitors. I spent some time exploring as it got hotter. Then went on to a much larger pyramidal temple, with lots of climbing up the usual steep steps to reach the top. Ended up at the exquisite Banteay Srei - the 'Ladies Temple' so called because of the delicacy of the carving and elegant proportions. By now running late. Back to hotel for quick shower and check-out, leaving again at 3pm for the final visits to the Roluos group of temples. Ended up at Bahkeng (another pyramid, of course) with lots of locals in festive mood. Then straight to airport and check in. We've just had the call to board, so goodnight!
Friday, 24-Jun-2005:
The one hour flight to Thailand was in a twin turboprop ATR (never been in one before). We arrived about 8.45pm in the dark and heavy rain. But baggage,immigration and customs was quick, the Oriental hotel picked me up as arranged and I was soon on the 8th floor of their River Wing overlooking the 'River of Kings'. The hotel was established in the 19th century and was quite the place for authors and the like. The original building survives as a restaurant/reading room (not been there yet) but most of the hotel is new.
I've had a more gentle day today. Leisurely breakfast on the terrace watching the phenomenal traffic on the river which always fascinates me. Small, tough tugs dragging 2, 3 or 4 barges which can be quite large, with crude shelters on each barge for the crew and often with the gunwhales awash. Sometimes, 2 tugs abreast haul the load - one fleet had a tug ahead and astern (the back one to help with the steering of four large barges, I assume. Then there's 100-seat water taxis racing up and down the river, smaller ferries and the major hotels like the Marriot, Peninsular and Oriental have their own 30-seat ferries with elaborate superstructures built like Thai houses. Finally, there's the small water taxis, long and thin with a high prow and a lorry engine mounted on a pivot at the stern. A long propshaft ends in a propeller about 8 feet behind the boat and the boatman wrestles the engine to achieve amazing speeds, with spray from the prop sometimes thrown 6 feet in the air to the accompaniment of roars from the engine. I got the hotel ferry to Taksin for the Skytrain. This is the overhead mass transit. I spent some time at HSBC Bank, took a walk in Lumpini Park and then took the Subway - a conventional underground which wan't opened last time I was here. It's very similar to the underground systems in Hong Kong and Singapore. I went to Hua Lumphong, the main railway station to check out the changes, then rode the subway to Chatuchak Park. Temperature about 34 degrees Celsius by then so, starting to tire, I returned to the hotel for a late light lunch (again watching the bustle on the river). A nice contrast with yesterday, in the countryside climbing temples. I was really sorry to leave Cambodia.
I've made contact with my Thai friend Dheb and he's taking me out this evening. I've also made contact with the people at the railway museum and I should see them Saturday or Sunday. What else I'll do, I don't know - I'm quite enjoying the breathing space. There's been a thunderstorm whilst I've been doing this but it seems to have stopped now.
My photographs of Bangkok are at Bangkok.
Saturday, 25-Jun-2005:
Well, Dheb took me for a Chinese last night (a very posh Chinese). I managed fairly well (including the chopsticks) and the grouper was superb.
Saturday, I went to see Jim Thompson's house - a museum. He was one of those larger-than-life Americans, went to Thailand at the end of the war for OSS (now CIA) and brought six old Thai houses to Bangkok and assembled his own villa. He developed the Thai modern silk trade more or less single handed and at one time ran the Oriental Hotel. Then, on holiday in Malaysia in the '60s, he disappeared. But the buildings he rescued are full of character and I enjoyed the visit.
Then by Skytain again to Chatuchak where there's a famous, huge weekend market with a free electric shuttle buggy to get you around (did not try). The live fish - presumably for aquaria - and the puppies for sale were a bit disturbing. Whole place heaving with Thais and tourists.
Next, to the 'Railway Museum'. Another shock, because my friend Sanpasiri is now too old to be involved. I'm afraid it's gone downhill and is now also the respository for all sorts of interesting but non-railway things. Anyhow, they were friendly and are trying to educate children so good luck to them.
Returned to hotel a little tired, so short rest then to the original hotel building where they still serve Afternoon Tea, with a resident pianist. I very much enjoyed that.
Then, another trip on the hotel ferry to the nearest Skytrain station (I almost think that's the best bit) and explore another part of the city, watching crowds of mainly middle-class Thais going to a major temple then checkout some of the shopping malls for contrast.
Back to the hotel for 7pm to send this e-mail, then I don't know what I'll do (probably not much). There was a super string quartet in the foyer last night - I hope they play again tonight.
Monday, 27-Jun-2005:
Well, when I got back on Sunday, I composed a long report on my day trip to Ayutthaya. It was detailed, authoritative, witty, insightful with correct Thai spellings. I hit 'send' and it disappeared, no trace, so you'll never know if I was fibbing about how good it was.
I'll try again. Sunday was 1 hour drive to the former capital of Thailand, a World Heritage Site because of the ruined temples. So the short version is "Jan looked at a load of old temples (again)". I can expand on that when I get back. Learnt about training elephants and use of elephants in warfare. Also had (another) elephant ride. Visited a restored temple with worshippers chanting plus four busloads of school kids being lectured by their various teachers. Oddly, the effect was charming. You can imagine the pile of shoes outside (one does not wear shoes in the temple). Buffet lunch in a large tourist hotel then ride round the canals in a longtail boat to visit more temples. I thought we were doing a fair lick until three Thais on jet skis roared past us! Very hot.
My photographs of Ayutthaya are at Ayutthaya.
Thunderstorm on way back, then cleared up so I had a long walk in the evening. Today, out early riding up and down the river on the water taxis. Then trip to a bookshop near the notorious Patpong (clubland) using the Skytrain (gosh, not more books, Jan?). Transfer to Don Muang airport and I'm now in the Eva Air lounge waiting for the flight on to Taipei, Taiwan at 1615. That's my last destination, then it's back home.
Tuesday, 28-Jun-2005:
Excellent flight from Bangkok to Taipei yesterday (seemed to be eating all the time and saw the bits of the film I'd missed coming from London - a lightweight children's adventure called 'The Pacifier' - quite good fun). Baggage, customs all painless, met by driver with limited English and promptly transferred to Taipei. Agora Garden is a newish rather yuppiefied large hotel in the new part of the city. I was last in Taipei about 25 years ago so, as you can imagine, the developments are staggering. 10pm by the time checked in, so retire to bed as being picked up 6.10am Tuesday for Taroko Gorge trip.
Picked up in a bus as planned and go to the 'city' airport a short ride away. When I was last here, this was still the international airport. Meet up with around 15 others and board a TransAsia Airways ATR twin turboprop for the 35 minute hop to Hualien on the East coast. Here, board large Volvo coach with tour guide who does English, Japanese and Mandarin explanations so fast, half the time I'm not sure what language he's in (I was not the only one in that predicament). It had been dry and dull in Taipei but on the East coast, it was hosing it down as we made our way up the Marble Gorge, pausing to look at a factory where they prepare granite and marble for building use.
The Gorge is a staggering place made of granite, limestone and lots of marble. Every time we got out to look at some feature, we had to cower under umbrellas and feet were soon quite wet. But the 2,000 feet from river to mountain top gives some spectacular views. Since I was last here, some of the more hair-raising bits of road have been turned over for walking and new tunnels cut for the road traffic. We do quite a bit of walking, ending up at Tienhsiang, with the prospect of a stiff hike up the hill to Hsiang-Te temple, but the rain's stopped. I made it to the temple and, for good measure, climbed to the top of the pagoda as well. Quite warm when back on the bus.
We return to Hualien, stopping for Chinese lunch at a large 'marble factory' and, what do you know, it just happens to be owned by our guide Mr Su. Then, we check out the carved marble and jewellery on offer. Twenty minutes on the beach, looking East across the Pacific then it's back to the recently-opened new airport terminal at Hualien, this time for a Far Eastern Air Transport twin jet (MD80) back to Taipei.
My photographs of the Taroko Gorge and Hualien are at Taroko Gorge and Hualien.
Another coach ride back to the hotel, arriving about 6pm. I immediately fall asleep for 4 hours, so that takes care of the rest of the day. It's now around midnight and I'm in the business centre, a booth with 4 PCs, overlooking the fairly grand (but fairly quiet) marbled entrance hall. Not decided about tomorrow yet. Mea culpa: The e-mail that got lost included an apology, which I'd better repeat, for the various typos and mis-spellings which have occurred in these messages. I'm sorry for the drop in standards but I've usually been working against the clock and (more to the point) having to pay extortionate hotel rates for use of computer!
I admit, when I arrived in Taipei at night, it seemed rather unfriendly. One thing, the Taiwanese face (probably most Chinese) tends to settle into something of a scowl in respose. The same has been said of me. But they are quick to smile and seem anxious to help (the same has not been said of me). I felt more relaxed after the trip to the East coast and a good buffet breakfast this morning.
So I set off on foot for the nearest MRT (subway) station, this morning only getting slightly lost on the way. Armed with a 1-day pass, I set off for the main railway station, which has been rebuilt since I was here last (in fact, the whole railway through the city was put underground, eliminating a number of horrendous level crossings). Didn't travel on the main line railway, but had a good look round before setting off North on the MRT again, then a taxi to the National Palace Museum. It's under major rebuilding so the exhibition space is restricted but the quality of the exhibits is outstanding. Pity about the hordes of Japanese. There was a fascinating exhibition of old (European) maps of China. Superb Chinese pen and wash paintings. The draughtsmanship is superb, but they hadn't mastered perspective and everything looks like an isometric projection.
Then caught a 'bus to Shilin MRT and after a walk round the town off North again, ending up at Hsin Pei Tou (that's the old Romanisation - Wade? - I can't cope with the new Romanisation they now use which is similar to, but not identical with, mainland China). Walk round the park, deafened by cicadas.
Then back to the city, change and out to Lungshan Temple station to look at, you've guessed, Lung Shan Temple. It always amazes me how the Buddhist/Confucian temples combine devotion with crowds of people walking and talking everywhere. But it works and I find such places very spiritual. Had a walk to look at another station (Wanhua) then further South to explore another district, then on a branch line across to Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall.
The Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall is is a huge marble building that would serve an emperor with a large statue guarded by two soldiers. Underneath, a huge museum showing features of the man's life (including his two bullet-proof 'Caddys' and the myriad decorations awarded by Nationalist China - no surprise - and all sorts of European, Middle Eastern, African and South American countries). I need to learn more about the convoluted history of the Nationalist Movement and Taiwan. Sadly, the gift shop there had got lots of tacky souvenirs but no books! Outside, on the huge parade ground, two school marching bands were practising, more or less alternately. The one was particularly good - I enjoyed that.
Getting tired by now, but determined to check out one remaining MRT line. Very interesting: driverless, fully overhead, rubber tyred with side rails for steering, 4-coach trains built by GEC Alsthom in 1992. By now getting really tired and the light's gone, so abandon walk to Taipei 101 (still the world's tallest building, I think) and return to hotel. Just had their buffet dinner (fine apart from the Japanese diners - do you see a pattern emerging?). This will probably be my last message from abroad - at 6am tomorrow I head to the airport for the long journey home. I intend to send a postscript when I'm home, so that y'all know I'm back.
My photgraphs of Taipei are at Taipei.
Well, I had to get up early but the First Class lounge at Chiang Kai Shek Airport nearly makes up for that. Yamaha player piano tinkling in one corner, a fairly full breakfast service in another corner and four swish internet machines (Sampo computers? Never heard of 'em) where I am. It's 7.25am, we board in an hour.
Twelve days of contrasts - partly engineered, partly 'cos that's the way the world is. Ho Chi Minh City was more cosmopolitan and less French than I expected, 'though the French influence is there. They spent ages trying to get rid of the French (who were financially aided by USA in the latter stages) and then the Americans hit them. The domino theory was in vogue - if Vietnam becomes communist, the whole of South East Asia will fall. The damage done was immense and the use of defoliants like Agent Orange leaves a legacy with ongoing impact. HCM City teems, like Bangkok. The usual story of country folk attracted to the big city by the (relatively) big bucks. Visiting the Mekong was a wonderful contrast - the regular flooding as the snow melts on the Himalayas makes the area very fertile - up to three rice crops a year (other areas can struggle to make one) and a more laid back way of life. Mind you, I got some nasty insect bites which were painful for a time.
Cambodia was a delight. I'd like to go back and see more. The people are friendly and struggling to improve their situation. I only saw the countryside. Again, they are suffering from a long drawn out civil war in which USA played a dubious role. Large areas of the country are still mined and, on average, two people a day are injured by mines going off. The sheer scale and sophistication of the ancient Khymer culture was an eye-opener. They achieved feats of civil engineering on a scale we'd have trouble duplicating today. And the interplay of Buddhist and Hindu belief was interesting. It was very hot and I got heat rashes all over which were a bit troublesome.
Bangkok I've always liked and I enjoyed the Oriental. The level of service is excellent. For instance, they pour your tea for you and, as you drink it, come back to top it up. They also address you by name, which is a good trick (particularly when I'm sure all Westerners look the same to them: ha ha). If you approach a lift and there's staff around, they rush to press the call button for you. One lobby porter would call the lift, hold the door for you and greet you by name. On entering the lift, you'd find he'd reached round and pressed your correct floor button as well! I enjoyed the water travel - they take their river seriously and I found it fascinating just how much traffic there is. The mass transit is convenient and gives an excuse for people-watching without being too obvious. There are an awful lot of Westerners in Bangkok.
After a while, I fell in love with Taiwan again. The city teems, just like Bangkok, and the myriad small businesses in the ground floor front of most buildings or stalls on the pavement is similar. But the culture is somewhat different. I don't know how far politics is responsible for those differences. I found it odd that Dr. Sun Yet Sen is revered both in communist China and Taiwan (Chiang Kai Chek was an aide to the doctor initially). At first, the West's approach was plucky little Taiwan, holding firm against the communist hordes - that was certainly the case when I was here before and America was piling money into Taiwan manufacturing. But now, Taiwan is an embarassment as we try to cosy up to the mainland for trade reasons or realpolitik. The World Trade Organisation has just published its 6-monthly directory of representatives after a three year delay in which China wrangled over how the Taiwanese delegates should be titled. The recent edition uses a compromise formula which has pleased no one. Oh, I nearly forgot, having a wonderful time, wish you were here.
Saturday, 2-Jul-2005:
As promised, my final message to confirm back safe and well. The flight back on Thursday was good but long. 7,500 miles with a short stop at Bangkok. Watched films, read, slept and ate. We would have been right time into Heathrow if we'd not been 'stacked' for half an hour. Baggage, immigration and customs was painless so I was soon on my way back by road arriving 10.45pm. Slept well, up early Friday. Just as well, 'cos I had an all day meeting (here, fortunately). Friday evening I went very tired but after another night's sleep I'm not too bad today (Saturday) apart from some backpain. Now, I'd better start planning again - so many countries, so little time!
