My first trip to India

My first visit to India was a business trip in 1992. Ford Electronics had supplied telecommunications equipment to G.E.C. for the Delhi Ring Resignalling Project and I'd agreed to go to Delhi for a couple of weeks to assist in commissioning. In fact, I was there for almost seven weeks! We were very comfortably settled in a large, modern hotel in New Delhi invariably referred to as 'Taj Man Singh' because of its location in Man Singh Road. G.E.C. had a car and driver and each day we would be ferried through the city to the various work sites as necessary.

I had experienced the Far East a number of times in earlier trips to Hong Kong and Taiwan and expected India to be similar. But most people agree that India is unique. The combination of the heat, the people, the culture can overwhelm Westerners. I was told that people either love India or hate it - indifference is not an option. For a couple of days as I coped with it all, I wasn't sure which camp I'd be in. Then I decided I loved it. One of the ex-patriate wives told me "I've been here for five years, but India still has the power to shock or delight me with some new discovery".

There was a different shock for me on the first morning going to work. As the car passed under a railway bridge, a train was passing over the top. To my amazement, it was hauled by a very run-down steam locomotive - a class 'WP' broad-gauge 'Pacific'. I'd assumed all steam had been eliminated and yet here I was, transported back to the '60s when steam was being eliminated in Britain.

We started work in a telecommunications equipment room surrounded by railway lines at Delhi Junction. Working practices were so different from the U.K. - no high-visibility clothing, public and staff wandering all over the railway at will. On one side, we had the broad gauge through platforms with an incessant procession of trains, electric, diesel and (occasionally), steam. On the other side, the metre gauge terminal platforms were served a by a series of diesel- and steam-hauled services.

I could hardly believe my eyes and it was hard to keep my mind on the job in hand! But this, of course, was only the first of the shocks and surprises in store for me. You can read a little more of my adventures here.

[Link to continuation added 15-January 2013]

Thai Railfan Club

Jan working on the mural described below

During my earlier business trips to Thailand, I'd met Sanpasiri Viriyasiri who was involved in the Thai Railfan Club. He was carrying out an ambitious plan to open a railway museum in an existing warehouse building in Chatuchak Park, Bangkok. I'd agreed to go out there in the last few days before the official opening to try to lend a hand. It was a remarkable visit.

The first thing that struck me on visiting the museum was that it was a rather large building for the number of exhibits on hand. Sanpasiri assured me that more exhibits were expected imminently. He had high-level contacts in the Thai State Railway and had used them to good effect. But it was agreed that I would be despatched to the railway to seek out further exhibits of signalling equipment. Arrangements were made for me and I met the General Manager of the railways, who spoke excellent English. My friend Sanpasiri did not accompany me, because there were so many other arrangements to be made, but it was clear that he was regarded with great respect.

I was received with all courtesy and, at the end of a pleasant interview, I was taken to the Signalling Workshops to make detailed arrangements, with the full backing of the General Manager. There followed a fascinating tour of the workshops, where I felt rather like a child in a sweetshop. My eyes would light on something and I would stop and say "that would make a suitable exhibit!". My idea was to re-create a simple signal box, so that the method of signalling a train could be interpreted to museum visitors.

Most of Thailand then used semaphore signals, manually worked by wire from a lever frame in a signal box or station building. The equipment largely followed German practice. Points were double-wire operated from the same 'turnover' lever frame as the signals. In general, the section of track between stations was single, with electric tablet instruments at each end of the section interconnected over an open wire telephone route. The tablet instruments ensured that only one tablet at a time could be extracted from the pair of instruments as authority to a driver to enter the single line. This tablet had to be replaced in either of the pair of instruments before a further tablet could be withdrawn to allow a second train to proceed. At a regional level, the sequence of trains was controlled by a Train Despatcher who was in telephone communication with every signalbox and station in the region over the open wire telephone route. The Train Despatcher telephone equipment had originally been supplied by Standard Telephones and Cables in England but, by the time the museum opened, this life-expired equipment had been replaced by Ford Electronics equipment installed by G.E.C.

It was agreed that the Signalling Workshops would recondition a couple of tablet instruments, a small lever frame and a number of associated artefacts to form one of the displays in the museum. It was the first (and only) time I'd had the authority to commission work in this way.

I had another idea to 'decorate' the museum and this involved me directly. We agreed to paint a full-sized mural of the front view of a British locomotive on one of the end walls of the hall, hopefully to look as if the engine was just entering from outside. We purchased a number of sheets of plywood and fixed these to the end wall to form a 'doorway'. In a magazine I'd brought with me for my Thai friends, there were scale plans of an LMS 0-6-0T shunting engine, the ubiquitous 'Jinty'. I scaled up the front view to full size and drew the outline on the plywood in pencil. Then, using poster paints, I produced the mural, assisted by one of the members of Thai Railfan Club. It was, literally, a huge task. I had never produced a mural before - certainly not a full-size representation of a locomotive! When we were finished, I was amazed at how impressive it looked. The mural survived for a number of years, but when I went back last, it had gone.

Meanwhile, Sanpasiri had achieved tremendous results and artefacts were arriving and being set up hour by hour. The nationalised railway had made a splendid effort with the signalling display and the whole hall took on the appearance of a rather jolly museum. Just as well, as opening day was upon us and all sorts of celebrities were expected.

The opening ceremony was to be just outside the hall (Thai weather is usually rather more reliable than England, except in the rainy season). Microphones were set up, facing a row of huge leather armchairs for the VIPs. Behind the armchairs, a number of rows of folding chairs were provided for the 'lesser lights'. Everyone else was to stand. A number of television news crews were on hand, with Sanpasiri moving effortlessly from one to another giving interviews. To my astonishment, I was to participate in one interview. Since I neither understand nor speak Thai, my contribution was limited to nodding frequently in what I hoped was an intelligent manner whilst studying a plan of the exhibition.

As the VIPs arrived, I was solemnly introduced to each one. They all seemed disproportionately impressed by my presence but I never found out what they had been told. My final embarrassment was when it was made clear that one of the armchairs was for me. I sat through the opening ceremony, completely oblivious to what was being said, apart from the occasions when my name was spoken with far to much respect, for my contribution had not been great. But everyone was happy, we had a great day and, like Sanpasiri, I believe that anything which encourages people to delight in railways, particularly steam railways, is a good thing!

I still prize the Thai Railfan Club tee shirt they presented me with as a souvenir. It has a picture of one of the preserved Japanese-built 'Moguls' on the front and 'I LOVE TRAINS', in English and Thai, on the back.

My pictures

I have a few photographs of this wonderful visit. They were on 35mm film but they have been scanned and you can find them at Bangkok Railway Museum (1990).

[Photograph link added 29-Oct-2015]

Train Dispatcher Project - Thailand

A picture taken at the 'I & C Seminar' held at the conclusion of the Project

The first three or four visits I made to Thailand were on business. We'd concluded an agreement with G.E.C. to design and supply selective call telephone equipment for use on Thai State Railways.

The specification was clearly written around electro-mechanical equipment and much later I found some details of a quite old Japanese system which I imagine formed the basis of the Japanese tender. But we'd come up with what we thought was a fairly elegant approach using a microprocessor, enabling us to show quite significant cost savings which may have helped G.E.C. to secure the main contract.

I quite looked forward to the possibility of visiting Thailand as the contract proceeded. I was placed in a very good hotel - the Hilton at Nai Lert Park. The only down side was the mosquitoes, particularly in the evening, which were attracted by the number of canals in the vicinity. G.E.C. had a resident Project Manager, Phil, supported by a number of engineers based at the offices of the local agents, Summit Engineering. I made a number of good friends within Summit, especially Dheb and Kamthorn and I was treated with great courtesy. In addition to technical work carried out at the offices, I attended a number of meetings with the client, Thai State Railways, and the Japanese consultants. Sometimes there were clashes of culture and things could become difficult but my role was principally advisory and technical so I avoided the real rough-and-tumble.

As the installation work got under way, we ourselves had an Installation Manager, Peter, on site, to assist with installation problems and train the large numbers of staff who had to become conversant with the new equipment. Equipment was installed at over 600 locations throughout Thailand so there was quite a lot a travelling within Thailand.

On my various visits to Thailand, I was always based in Bangkok but I myself made trips to Chiang Mai in the North, Hat Yai in the South, Ubon Ratchathani in the East and along many of the branch railways. Of course, this travelling gave me the opportunity to study the railway, which delighted me. Steam had been eliminated some years earlier but there were occasional steam-hauled enthusiast specials, although I never managed to synchronise my visits with one of these trips.

Occasionally, when problems arose, I went out in the field to carry out tests or investigate the difficulty. I well remember one branch line where unacceptable levels of noise were present on the telephone circuits, despite the circuits themselves testing correctly. Eventually, we persuaded the railway to lay on a motorised inspection trolley so that we could drive along this branch looking for possible external factors. About halfway along the branch, we found one of the largest electrical substations I've ever seen, right next to the railway and with numerous overhead cables crossing or running parallel to the railway. The induction from this installation was more than enough to account for the problems but people were either unaware of its existence or failed to see its relevance. Once we'd identified the problem, we were able to mitigate the effects.

Eventually, after a great many 'alarums and excursions', the project was completed towards the end of 1989 and a conference was organised at a Bangkok hotel where G.E.C. outlined what had been achieved to a large group of senior managers from the railway. I was in charge of setting up a comprehensive working demonstration of the equipment which we'd supplied and I also addressed the conference briefly about our involvement. You can see pictures of this event here.

All-in-all, it was a wonderful experience, leaving me with a number of new friends and an abiding love of Thailand.

I've been back to Thailand a number of times since (for instance, see Thai Railfan Club and various posts on subsequent travels through the Far East, particularly Far East Tour, 2005).

My pictures

My 35mm pictures taken around Thai Railways as we commissioned the train despatcher equipment and pictures of the I&C Seminar have been scanned and can be found below:-

Railways in Thailand (1989).
Train Despatcher Project I & C Seminar: 1-Sep-1989

[Links to pictures added 29-Oct-2015]

Lion

It should be clear, from even casual inspection of this blog, that steam railways form an important part of my life. People often ask how I became actively involved. The short answer is 'Lion', the longer answer follows.

I was always interested in railways and engineering. That probably partly derives from my grandfather, who was an engineer and liked nothing better than explaining how things worked with an enthusiasm which was infectious. When I was quite young, I saw the comedy film "The Titfield Thunderbolt" which made quite an impression. I originally hoped to go into railway signal engineering. British Railways offered me a post, but not quite what I was after so I went into industrial electronics with a local company instead and rather turned my back on the railway scene. I could have joined the railway preservation movement then but I chose not to. After a few years, I started my own business and that left little time for hobbies. But I always retained a rather distant interest in railways.

I was already in my mid-40s on one fateful day in 1988 when I went to Manchester on business. The train I took to Manchester was routed via Crewe, instead of by the more usual Stoke-on-Trent line. As we clattered over the pointwork at Crewe North Junction, diverging onto the Manchester line, I glanced across at the site of Crewe Locomotive Works. Part of the largely redundant site had recently been converted into what was then called 'Crewe Heritage Centre' and visible above the fencing was the tall chimney of an ancient locomotive. I recognised it as the locomotive I'd seen 35 years earlier in Ealing Studios film 'The Titfield Thunderbolt', which I remembered was actually called 'Lion' and had survived from the early days of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway.

I went about my business during the day and eventually returned to Manchester Piccadilly station for the journey home. I made my way onto the platform for the express back home via Stoke on Trent, then I noticed a local train for Crewe on the adjacent platform. "Oh!", I thought, "Shall I get the express and get home quickly, or shall I get the local to Crewe and see if I can look at 'The Titfield Thunderbolt'?".

Well, I went to Crewe, walked to the Heritage Centre and found the 'Lion' supporters group, the Old Locomotive Committee (or simply OLCO) still running 'Lion' up and down the demonstration line. They gave me a ride, let me stand on the footplate and the Chairman said "You seem to be interested. Why don't you join our group?" To my surprise, I found myself saying "Why not?" and the rest, as they say, is history.

I didn't know at the time that they were short of a Secretary, so I served in this role and others for a number of years. But they let me fire the locomotive and occasionally drive before the locomotive was finally 'laid up' so I think myself very fortunate. With no great prospect of 'Lion' steaming again, I'd rather devote my efforts to working steam, so I resigned from my Secretary's role, but resumed it later.

All my posts on 'Lion' and the Old Locomotive Committee can be found here.

All my photographs of 'Lion' and the activities of the Old Locomotive Committee can be found here.

There's quite a collection of technical photographs of the prototype 'Lion' at Lion (Up close & personal).

[Links added: 9-Oct-2016]

Work

I still work more or less full time, but this important part of my life doesn't figure very strongly in these blogs. Considerations of commercial confidentiality mean that lots of things I'd be inclined to talk about can't be aired. Probably just as well, as my readers would probably find many of the topics even more mind-numbingly boring and obscure than my usual musings. My interest in engineering probably partly derives from my grandfather on my mother's side, who liked nothing better than explaining how things worked with an enthusiasm which was infectious. Prior to his retirement, he had been Chief Jig and Tool Designer at the Sunbeam Motor Company. I had originally hoped to go into railway signal engineering. British Railways offered me a post, but not quite what I was after, so I went into industrial electronics with a local company instead. In 1966, after a few years with the industrial electronics company, I started my own business in electronic engineering. I remained on good terms with my previous employer and they provided me with a number of our early orders. Since then, we've seen periods of growth, periods of contraction, good times and lots and lots of bad times. But overall, it's given me a fascinating and often challenging life. The business is now settled, at a very intimate scale, in a 350 year old barn next to my home. The commuting is better than it's ever been for me!

2018 Update:

Well, I'm still working and I have added a few more posts labelled 'Work'. There's an index of 'Work' posts here.

[Link to index added 16-Nov-2018]

Poland

The photograph, by Mike Leatherdale, shows Jan on the Ol 49 bringing the afternoon train from Posnan into Grosdysk (Click on picture to enlarge).

To celebrate a major birthday, my friend Mike Edwards had been given the present of an engine-driving holiday in Poland organised by the Wolsztyn Experience. Mike had already invited two of his motor bike enthusiast friends to join him and he asked if I'd like to make up a foursome. After some hesitation, I booked. In September, 2003, I met up with the three other participants at Stanstead and we had an excellent flight with Air Berlin to Berlin.

We'd a number of hours in Berlin before catching our train to Poland, so we caught the shuttle bus to the city to see some of the sights like the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag and the remains of The Wall. We travelled on the subway system and ended up at the excellent Museum of Technology where we spent a fascinating few hours. Suspended above the entrance to the museum is a complete aircraft - a Douglas C47, the military version of the famous DC3 'Dakota'. This is the aircraft which was the mainstay of the post-war Berlin Air Lift when the Russians tried to break the spirit of West Berlin by imposing a supply blockade. The splendid collection of railway locomotives was of particular interest to us all and outside there was even a working railway giving rides to a nearby museum site, sadly using diesel haulage. Eventually, we made our way to Berlin Zoo station, to catch the electric hauled express which was to take us to Poland. As the train made its slow departure from the city, we passed through areas which not so long ago had formed part of East Berlin and been virtually inaccessible.

An uneventful journey took us into Poland and we got off at the station where we were to be met, to continue by road to Wolsztyn. We were allocated rooms in the Wolsztyn Experience Clubhouse and a nearby flat. During briefings by Howard Jones, the organiser, the week was mapped out for us.

Mike and I volunteered go 'on the cushions' (travel as passengers) to Posnan to help fetch back a 2-8-0 freight locomotive which was returning from another part of Poland. We caught the early train from Wolstyn to Posnan, crewed by other people on the experience. There wasn't too long to wait before we heard the clank of an approaching steam locomotive and the class 'Tr5' stopped to pick us up. The Polish crew had some English so, once introductions were made, we set off light engine for Wolsztyn. On this leg, Mike drove and I fired. It had been decided, at some stage, that we would be combined with the following steam-hauled passenger train, so we were stopped to wait for the passenger train and shunted onto the front so that we made our first entry to Wolsztyn doubled headed in fine style!

On each day, we would work one of the 'diagrams', sharing the driving and firing and, of course, under the supervision of the Polish crew as we were handling public services on the PKP nationalised railway. When we were there, there were three basic 'diagrams':-

- an early service from Wolsztyn to Posnan, returning in the middle of the day.
- an afternoon service from Wolsztyn to Posnan, returning in the early evening.
- an afternoon service from Zybaszynek via Wolsztyn to Leszno.

Wolsztyn to Posnan is 50 miles reasonably flat, with about 21 stops, ending up 'under the wires' at the major station at Posnan, for which two hours is allowed.

Zebaszynek to Leszno is 50 miles, with a fair bit of 'collar work' (uphill), with 18 stops, for which one and three quarter hours is allowed.

The diagrams are designed for diesel haulage so, when using steam, there's no time for hanging around.

We were lucky in that we got to work on three different tender engines on the various diagrams:-

4-6-2 Pm 36-2 'Piekna Helena'
2-8-2 Pt 47-65
2-6-2 Ol 49-111

Of course, I also got to fire the Tr5 2-8-0 freight locomotive.

Jan, with Peak Rail driver Mike Edwards, on the footplate of Ol49 111 at Wolsztyn (Picture: Bob Roberts)

All of the trips were special, but I remember two particularly. First, an early train to Posnan which I drove from Wolsztyn with the massive Pt47. It was dark, it was raining, and we thundered towards Posnan, whistling for the many level crossings. Secondly, the afternoon train from Zybasynek to Lesno with the Pm36 'Piekna Helena' ('Beautiful Helen'). Mike had driven light engine tender first from Wolsztyn to Zybasynek to pick up the stock and I took over just after Zybasyn. We had to drive quite hard to meet the required sectional timings. As we passed through the forest section, the wailing of the whistle echoed back from the trees at each minor crossing. All too soon, we were at Lesno, dropped the coaches and then Mike drove light engine, tender first again, from Lesno back to Wolsztyn for disposal.

My photographs of this trip are at Polish Railways (PKP).

China

Back in 2002, when I read about the Three Gorges Project in China and how the completion of the hydro-electric project would permanently alter the appearance of the famous Three Gorges (raising the water level some 300 feet), I determined to see the area for myself before the flooding commenced.

I flew to Beijing (Peking) and was amazed at the huge modern airport. My guide took me to an equally modern American-style hotel in the centre of the city. Later, my guide took me to Tiananmen Square, crowded with tourists from every part of the huge country which is China but with very few Westerners. Despite the historic associations, I found it unthreatening. The huge parliament building lies on one side of the massive square, but the natural focus is the massive outer walls and gatehouse of the Forbidden City, carrying a large painting of Chairman Mao.

Along with hordes of tourists, we entered the Forbidden City, on payment of a few Yuan. For centuries only the highest castes of Chinese had been allowed into this palace (hence the name) and, when the Communsts took over, they lost no time in throwing it open to the people in a highly symbolic act. China has been criticised for its former poor standards of conservation and, it has to be said, some parts of this incredible city are rather down at heel. But there is a lot of work in progress and it appears to be of high qualty. The city is arranged as a series of concentric walls with hundreds of guest houses and palaces, becoming more important as you reach the centre of the city where only those closest to the Emperor were allowed. The overall effect is mind-boggling. One jarring note as we were fairly near the centre of the Forbidden City was a building attracting queues of people. "Starbucks!" said the guide proudly and he seemed quite disappointed that I had no desire to visit this particular building.

On an evening walking tour on my own of the brightly-lit city, I found modern shops representing all the Western designers and it was hard to believe that you were not in Europe. But I managed to work out how the Subway works and I went further afield where the lights were not so bright and the department stores more modest. I saw very few Europeans but I did not feel uncomfortable. Of course, I had some technical interest in how the Subway was built and operated. At the front of the train, it was possible to get a restricted view into the driving cab and along the track ahead. The trains are Driver Only Operation and the drivers follow the Japanese practice of pointing at each signal as they approach it and declaiming out loud the aspect displayed. I also visited the huge main line station which, even late at night was thronged with people. Eventually, I returned safely to my hotel to prepare for the organised private tour the following day.

First, we went to the Ming Tombs, out in the country, where successive emperors were buried. The scale of the place is impressive, particularly the underground tomb chambers. There were plenty of tourists, both Chinese and overseas visitors. Next, a visit to a Chinese 'hospital'. Coachloads of tourists were arriving for a brief consultation with a Chinese doctor, resulting in the prescribing of various herbal remedies on sale in the adjacent dispensary. Diagnosis is principally by the taking of the pulse on both wrists simultaneously, together with a careful assessment of the patient's appearance. The male doctor only spoke Chinese but a 'nurse' was on hand to translate the doctor's comments. The Chinese idea of 'chi' flowing through 'meridians' in the body is contrary to Western medicine, but the effectiveness of some Chinese techniques is slowly being accepted in the West. We then moved on to a factory where Cloisonne work was being produced. It's a fascinating and very labour-intensive process and I was happy to make some small purchases before being whisked away to see the Great Wall of China, where we arrived late afternoon.

All the pictures I'd seen of the Wall didn't prepare me for the sheer scale of the construction, as it snaked away into the distance following the contours of the exceptionally hilly terrain. In many places, the Wall has been lost or is in a poor state of repair but here, North of Beijing, a lot of work has been carried out and this is the section of the Wall that the majority of tourists see. I would have been content to have spent a lot longer walking the Wall: most tourists are happy to walk a few hundred yards and return so it's fairly easy to get to quieter spots where you can readily imagine the patrols charged with guarding the empire, so many centuries ago.

I took an internal flight to the city of Xian (pronounced 'see-ann'), which is a major modern city with an ancient core still surrounded by a massive brick-built wall. After studying the walls, which have survived remarkably well, we travelled through the noisy, bustling city to the quiet of a Bhuddist monastery. Helped by the number of visitors, they have been able to fund a new temple, built in the traditional style. The other attraction is the medieval Big Wild Goose Pagoda which you can ascend, on payment of a modest fee. From the top level, there is a marvellous panorama of the city.

I spent one night in a very pleasant Western-style hotel in the suburbs, before moving on to view the Terracotta Army. The Emperor Qin ('chin') prepared a huge mausoleum for himself during his lifetime, with thousands of clay soldiers, life size, to guard his remains. This prototype strong man of China was so reviled that his body lay undisturbed for only a few years before the whole complex was sacked and burnt. The extent of the works were forgotten until a few years ago, when three farmers digging a well started to uncover fragments of the soldiers. There are already three different museum buildings covering the excavations so far. The largest is built like an aircraft hanger, filled with excavated trenches containing rank after rank of clay soldiers. Each soldier's head was individually modelled and, originally, painted. Most of the figures currently on display have a brownish, clay appearance. It is a truly amazing site. My visit was out of season and I was able to get around the museums quite easily. But, be warned, I'm told it can be a real scrum at the height of the season. The international airport at Xian was built specifically so that China could exploit the tourist potential of the Terracotta Army. I also visited a factory in Xian where they produce wonderful furniture and, in various scales, models of the terracotta warriors using the local clay. I was so impressed, I arranged for the firm to ship back a full-size kneeling archer and full-size senior officer. These replicas invariably attract a lot of interest when people visit me.

Then on again, by another internal flight to the city of Chungking, where I arrived late at night. I think Chungking is currently the largest city in the world, as people leave the poverty of the countryside to try to achieve a better standard of living in the city. China's remarkable growth rates are being fuelled by this flight from agriculture but life in manufacturing is very tough, by Western standards.

We drove through the city to the banks of the Yangtse River, where I was to join a cruise ship for a trip through the Three Gorges. There's a series of concrete steps leading down to the water's edge, difficult to negotiate in the dark when you're tired. Worse was the very insubstantial-looking duckboards stretching right out into the river, ending at the brightly-lit cruise ship. Members of the crew were positioned on the duckboards every so often, holding rather ineffective electric torches by way of encouragement. At least my luggage was brought out for me. The ship, the 'Pinghu' was modern and spacious and within a few minutes I was able to collapse in my very decent cabin, re-united with my luggage.

Next morning, we bade farewell to Chungking and slipped our moorings to cruise downstream to the Three Gorges. It was raining and a heavy mist lay over everything, but I braved to upper deck to see what could be seen. The rain continued for quite a bit of the journey - it was certainly atmospheric, even if perhaps I didn't see the Three Gorges at their best. I hadn't realised that the Yangtze is such a vital communications artery in this part of China. The river traffic was amazing with large and small vessels of all descriptions. There is a wide variety of passenger ferries and quite large cargo vessels. The oddest and fastest vessels are perhaps the hydrofoil ferries, which appear to follow the Russian design, looking more like an aircraft with the 'fuselage' set in a sit-up-and-beg attitude on the hydroplanes. These noisy craft overtake everything on the river, throwing up a huge plume of spray at the stern. Quite a lot of coal is loaded into barges for river transport - the working practices would shock a European Heath and Safety Inspector. All sorts of towns are visible, mainly of modern construction. Once the dam is in service, the river level will rise to inundate most of the adjacent land, so newer towns have been built on higher land. I got a better look at this when we tied up for a shore visit.

We left the ship by the usual duckboards leading to the shore and were taken by bus to an ancient temple on high ground. Looking down towards the river, we could see a moonscape, where the old town was being demolished, a bleak vista of great lumps of broken cement, all covered in dust. When we returned to river level, I walked in the old town where hundreds of workmen were engaged in the demolition work. Although there were a few machines involved in the work, most of the demolition was being done by hand. I saw men precariously balanced on the remaining parts of the building under attack, flailing at the structure with large hammers. The rubble and reclained material is loaded onto large lorries, often by hand, and carried away in a swirl of concrete dust. After a day working in these conditions, the men eat and sleep in home-made tents dotted around the site. This was just one town - this pattern is being repeated all along the length of river affected by the dam project. The scale of the project is enormous.

Let's break off there, cruising down part of the Yangtze, longest river in Asia, third longest in the world. The rest of the trip was described (but not until 2020!) in the post China (part 2).

My pictures of the 2002 trip

Beijing, China
Xian, China
Yangtse River, China

[Link to part 2 added, pictures linked 26-Nov-2020]

Ukraine 2005

My friend Mike Edwards announced his intention of going on a steam driving holiday in Ukraine late in 2005. The more I thought about it, the more I became intrigued and I ended up booking myself following a late cancellation with the U.K. organisers East Europe Railtours. They had organised the visit in partnership with Dzherelo SPK in the Ukraine. The opportunity to drive Russian-designed steam locomotives on Ukraine's 5-foot gauge network seemed too good to miss.

The trip was nearly a washout for me as, exhausted by trying to complete various tasks at work before I left, I seriously overslept on the departure date. Telephone calls failed to alert me and I only got up at all because my dear friend Marion drove six miles to physically rouse me. Although it seemed hopeless to even attempt boarding the booked flight, I was driven to the airport, still in a stupor, and to my amazement was accepted on the flight. I have never been processed through an airport (with checked luggage) more quickly!

The flight took me to Schipol with a connection onwards to Kiev, where I met up with the organisers and the other participants. We spent some time at Borispol Airport, as other participants arrived on other flights. We then joined a coach for a short road tour of Kiev, disembarking at the main railway station for an overnight journey to Ivano Frankovsk.

A slight wobble: although the organiser had attempted to book a sleeping compartment for a 'lone female', the arrangements had been made on the basis of sharing with one of the male participants. It was explained to me that, in Ukraine, it is quite normal to share with a stranger of the opposite sex. However, I explained that it wasn't normal for me and I felt it was a bit late for me to change my ways. The compromise was to move me to a compartment with three Ukrainian ladies and we had an interesting evening of mis-communication. The tradition seems to be that each compartment sit around drinking, eating and talking until quite late, then the beds are deployed and everyone goes to sleep. I was with two middle-aged ladies and a teenage girl. All three were in some sort of conservation society and they'd been up to Kiev for a National Conference. The teenage girl spoke reasonable English and one of the ladies, a schoolteacher, understood English and was able to assist the girl. From time to time, Galina from the Ukrainian tour company joined us and we had a pleasant evening with wide-ranging (if rather stilted) discussions.

It was a long and fairly slow journey but early morning saw us disembarking at the busy station at Ivano-Francovsk. Ivan Franco was a poet and patriot and the communists renamed the city after him presumably as the "acceptable face of communism". A coach was waiting for us and another drive took us to the base of our operations at the town of Kolomiya, where we stayed at quite a reasonable hotel next to what I imagine may be the world's only decorated egg museum, which is built in the shape of an egg. Elaborate, decorated eggs - 'pysanky' - are a tradition in Ukraine.

We saw the following steam locos:-
Em 735-72
Er 797-86
Su 251-86
Yea 2026
b 2137
L 3535
L 5141

I got to drive the first three of these locomotives. During the trip, I was also able to visit the Motive Power Depot at Chernovtsy, look at Russian railway signalling at Mikulichin and visit two Locomotive Repair Works in Kiev. There are links to my pictures below.

I'm afraid it was some years before I added more posts describing the trip in more detail, but you can find these starting at Driving Steam in Ukraine (Part 1)

Photographs:

Ukraine Steam.
Ukraine Modern Image.
Chernovtsy Motive Power Depot, Ukraine.
Signalling at Mikulichin, Ukraine.
Kiev Locomotive Works (Passenger).
Kiev Locomotive Works (Freight).

I wasn't totally single-minded about railways on the trip - my travel photographs are at Ukraine.

[Links to pictures added 1-Jan-2013: Link to 'Driving Steam in Ukraine (Part 1)' added 7-Jan-2015]

Far East Tour, 2005

A special first-class offer from Eva Air, the Taiwanese carrier, encouraged me to go back to Taiwan after a break of more than twenty-five years. I also determined to stop off in Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. It was another wonderful trip. There follows my original e-mails produced on the trip, only lightly edited and preserving, I hope, the original breathless style.

Sunday, 19-Jun-2005: In the 'front cabin' upstairs on an Eva Air 747 - just 8 of us. After take-off they served a reasonable dinner (starting with caviar) and then expected us to sleep (their seats, whilst not very modern, recline almost flat). And the supply of a duvet, rather than a blanket, was a distinct improvement. Watched 'Be Cool' and half of something else, then slept a bit. A couple of hours before Bangkok, they served a sort of breakfast, although it was mid-afternoon local time. Didn't go through immigration at Bangkok 'cos I had a connection to Saigon on an Air France flight. Some confusion because they don't man the transfer desks at quiet times (like Sunday afternoon) so eventually I and a young Vietnamese returning from Holland managed to check in at the Air France lounge. They made it up to us, though, because when we got to the gate they upgraded us both from economy to 'Affaires' (business class). Only a short flight but excellent with a very edible light meal. Arrived at dusk on time at Saigon or 'Ho Chi Minh City' (or, as Air France call it, 'Ho Chi Minh Ville'). Met the agent and transferred to the 'Sofitel Plaza Hotel'. I was glad to get a shower and change then decided to go for a walk, armed with a small map.The population is about 8 million, with about 3 million motor bikes (mainly Honda C50 or similar, either imported or made in Vietnam under license, but there are some 'Vespa' style). Road discipline is non-existent and the traffic never stops, so you just have to brave it crossing roads. Quite interesting in the dark with just a mass of headlights bearing down on you. Temperature still in the nineties Farenheight and Sunday's a day off (although most of the shops and cafes are open) so everybody's out, sitting around everywhere, talking. I found the British Trade Mission, the Post Office (open and thronged) the brick Notre Dame cathedral, City Hall (very over the top, presumably French colonial but nicely restored), a small Opera House (poor man's version of the Paris Opera), office blocks, shopping streets and the Saigon River. Lots of people at riverside cafes until the rain started. Then they instantly disappeared, huddled under voluminous plastic macs, driving away on scooters whilst the staff cleared away the chairs. Passed the Bason Shipyard and then navigated straight back to the hotel (I'm pleased to say - I was a bit wet when I got back). Well, that's enough for today - tomorrow I go on a tour up-country then Tuesday, I fly to Cambodia.

Monday, 20-Jun-2005: By car this morning south on Highway 1A to the important fishing port of My Tho in the Mekong. Everything from one man trawling from a small boat to much larger ocean going vessels. We charter a boat crewed by two (the helmsman steers the tiller with his foot) around islands in the river, passing large sand barges, each propelled by a powerful tug, taking away dredged sand for building purposes. We land on another island (pop. 300) which is now a tourist destination. Take honey tea at a bee farm (excellent, but I suspect you need the fresh limes they use to give it that 'kick'). Compulsory photograph with python around shoulders (didn't find out what connection between bees and pythons is). Then on to sample local fruits. Most not to my taste but the tiny bananas (called ladies fingers) are good.Then on to see coconut candy being made. Finished result had too much peanut for my palate. Then trip on a small boat along a quiet and attractive canal - one woman sitting on the bow paddling, one man in the stern also paddling. Then from little boat to pontoon, pontoon to our first boat and back to My Tho. Weather excellent during trip and during return to Saigon.

I visit the curiously-named 'War Remnants in Vietnam' museum - essential but harrowing.

Population now is about 10% Catholic, rest Buddhist, Taoist or Confucian or a mixture. In the 1920s the Cao Dai (say "Cow Die") religion was founded to fuse these four beliefs - we visited one of their temples. But it was the 200-year old Confucian temple visited in the afternoon I found really spiritual.

There's an ongoing problem from injuries due to uncleared land mines and deformed children born to mothers who were affected by Agent Orange defoliant. The government has a programme to place such people in work so we visited 'Handicapped Handicraft' where they make beautiful inlay and lacquerwork. Watched the processes - it is incredibly intricate and time-consuming. Then, when I was in the showroom there was such a heavy tropical storm that the workshop flooded to a couple of inches and the showroom staff had to move some of the stuff of the floor because of water coming under the doors!

Back to hotel, shower, rest and meal then out for a walk in the dark again. It's the most terrifying place to be a pedestrian (or driver). Although there are some traffic lights, most junctions are uncontrolled and everybody just pushes ahead in a fairly good-natured way with a lot of horn blowing (as a warning - not out of irritation). I managed to walk as far as the railway station. As I expected, not much going on but there is one preserved steam locomotive outside (apparently French-built 2-8-2). Then managed to get back by taxi (driver had no English and couldn't read a map, but it was OK). And so to bed. I could easily spend a lot more time looking at Vietnam but tomorrow morning I fly to Cambodia.

My photographs of Vietnam are at Vietnam.

Tuesday, 21-Jun-2005: Breakfast in HCM City, quick walk around local area to watch people going to work (a 2-chair barber 'shop' on the pavement doing good business caught my eye) then transfer to the airport. Vietnam Airlines flight by Airbus A340 to Siem Reap - only 1 hour in the air but a lot more hanging around on the ground.

I had been warned to bring a passport photo to apply for a tourist visa on arrival. A long counter had about 8 men behind. You deliver your visa application, passport, money, photo to the first man and then go to the last man while the application moves from man to man. Amusing, but quite speedy. Armed with the visa, through immigration, checked baggage was waiting for me, through customs and met by tour guide for transfer to Seam Reap.

It's hard to believe there was bloody civil war waging in Cambodia less than 10 years ago. Once again, it's a constitutional monarchy, pop. 11 million, I think, and allegedly 90% Buddhist. Siem Reap is a provincial town re-inventing itself as a major tourist destination because Angkor Wat is less than 4 miles away.

I'm at 'La Residence', a joint Thai-Orient Express operation. Rooms are off open galleries on two stories arranged around a quadrangle with a swimming pool discreetly hidden amongst the palms. The building is modern but Khymer-style, massive wooden construction (probably reinforced concrete underneath). Very appealing. Room huge, tasteful, balcony overlooking quadrangle. Staff very friendly, always smiling. Today, hotel is quite empty (suits me), parties leaving and arriving on different dates, they say, but being rainy season it's also tourist low season. Good. Hot when I go for a walk round the town - about 35 C. There are now 200 hotels in Siem Reap, many new buildings, many shops catering for tourists. But an interesting Central Market and the usual plethora of roadside stalls plus an internet cafe (which I didn't stop to use - I'm in the hotel which is far more expensive for internet).

It's an agrarian society with plenty of poverty as evidenced by the street beggars. It prompts the usual philosophical ponderings. Is it right that we have so much and some of them so little? I can see how being a Buddhist might help, if you can believe you are suffering this for a better life in your next incarnation. Then on the way back there's these insistent but charming children selling postcards. Mao, On and Jimmy, two girls and a boy around 11, born entrepreneurs, full of life, intelligent, excellent command of English, with their own e-mail address. I have great hopes for Cambodia in the future if she can turn out people like this. That's meant to sound admiring, not condescending. On my return to the hotel, the rain started and was very heavy, then eased off and has now stopped.

This evening, treated myself to dinner in the hotel restaurant. I went outside on the terrace. With the traditional electric fans going, very pleasant and only me. I don't like all this air conditioning. Consomme followed by sea bass 'nouvelle cuisine' - really good. Tomorrow, I visit Angkor Wat. Then we'll see how many tourists are around! I'm here tomorrow night as well, so I may well give you my impressions.

My photographs of Cambodia are at Cambodia.

Wednesday, 22-Jun-2005:

Short version: Jan looked at a load of old temples.

Longer version: A thousand years ago the Khymer empire was much larger than modern Cambodia. The king first established a city on a mountain at Phnom Bakheng (see below) but later a new city was built nearby at Angkor Thom. The city was 2 miles square, with 20 ft stonewalls pierced by 5 elaborate stone gatehouses. The population of around 1 million lived in wooden houses of which nothing remains - the wooden king's palace was also lost. But the stone walls, gatehouses, temples, terraces and certain other buildings remain in ruined form. This morning, I clambered over them in the 37 degrees Celsius sticky heat with my guide.

In the temples and elsewhere, there is little plain stone - it is all elaborately carved, sometimes in shallow 'bas relief', sometimes in deep relief. It's a mind-blowing experience, although there were too many other tourists for my preference! By noon, I was happy to return to the haven of my hotel for a shower, a change and a snack. Thus revived, we went back to Angkor Wat. This is the temple everybody knows. It's huge - a rectangular site enclosed by a wall 3.5 miles long, outside which there's a moat (still wet) 600 feet wide. A causeway leads you across the moat to a massive gatehouse with 5 entrances (1 for king, 2 for priests, 2 for elephants). In the middle of the site is the temple itself, 700 feet by 600 feet at the first level. Inside the wall but outside the temple 20,000 workers lived during the construction phase! All around the first level are galleries with bas relief of thousands of figures depicting both Hindu legend and Khymer life. Preservation is variable but the effect is still stunning. There is a second level, smaller than the first, then a third level, still smaller. On the third level are the one large and four smaller towers you must know from photographs, arranged in a 'Quincunx' (like the face of a dice). But it's the exquisite proportions, the smaller but equally elegant buildings like the libraries, the bathing pools, reflecting pools, unexpected views and interconnections and stairs which make the whole so bewitching and so spiritual (if you can avoid the Japanese tour guide with the bullhorn - I kid you not).

With great reluctance I left the Wat and climbed the hill to the ruins at Phnom Bakheng mentioned above. This climb, on top of all the 70-degree-to-horizontal stairs I'd earlier climbed almost finished me off, and a lot of others climbing the hill to watch the sunset. On a good day, there are spectacular lighting effects on the view of Angkor Wat, but today was overcast and not a good sunset. Still worth the climb but, discovering that there's a zig-zag elephant track, I came down in a howdah on an elephant. The steepness of the elephant track threatens to throw you out at every turn, but the elephants are remarkably sure-footed (and the company claims to have insurance!).

Back to the hotel, another shower, a meal and this session on the internet. Now 10.25pm. And so to bed. Tomorrow, more temples then in the evening I fly to Bangkok.

Thursday, 23-Jun-2005:

Now in the departure lounge in Siem Reap airport, waiting for Bangkok flight. Thursday started with a 20 minute helicopter flight over Angkor Wat and other temples in the vicinity. Then, we proceeded by car. I haven't got all the temple names clear yet but we started with a marvellous, delicate small temple with few visitors. I spent some time exploring as it got hotter. Then went on to a much larger pyramidal temple, with lots of climbing up the usual steep steps to reach the top. Ended up at the exquisite Banteay Srei - the 'Ladies Temple' so called because of the delicacy of the carving and elegant proportions. By now running late. Back to hotel for quick shower and check-out, leaving again at 3pm for the final visits to the Roluos group of temples. Ended up at Bahkeng (another pyramid, of course) with lots of locals in festive mood. Then straight to airport and check in. We've just had the call to board, so goodnight!

Friday, 24-Jun-2005:

The one hour flight to Thailand was in a twin turboprop ATR (never been in one before). We arrived about 8.45pm in the dark and heavy rain. But baggage,immigration and customs was quick, the Oriental hotel picked me up as arranged and I was soon on the 8th floor of their River Wing overlooking the 'River of Kings'. The hotel was established in the 19th century and was quite the place for authors and the like. The original building survives as a restaurant/reading room (not been there yet) but most of the hotel is new.

I've had a more gentle day today. Leisurely breakfast on the terrace watching the phenomenal traffic on the river which always fascinates me. Small, tough tugs dragging 2, 3 or 4 barges which can be quite large, with crude shelters on each barge for the crew and often with the gunwhales awash. Sometimes, 2 tugs abreast haul the load - one fleet had a tug ahead and astern (the back one to help with the steering of four large barges, I assume. Then there's 100-seat water taxis racing up and down the river, smaller ferries and the major hotels like the Marriot, Peninsular and Oriental have their own 30-seat ferries with elaborate superstructures built like Thai houses. Finally, there's the small water taxis, long and thin with a high prow and a lorry engine mounted on a pivot at the stern. A long propshaft ends in a propeller about 8 feet behind the boat and the boatman wrestles the engine to achieve amazing speeds, with spray from the prop sometimes thrown 6 feet in the air to the accompaniment of roars from the engine. I got the hotel ferry to Taksin for the Skytrain. This is the overhead mass transit. I spent some time at HSBC Bank, took a walk in Lumpini Park and then took the Subway - a conventional underground which wan't opened last time I was here. It's very similar to the underground systems in Hong Kong and Singapore. I went to Hua Lumphong, the main railway station to check out the changes, then rode the subway to Chatuchak Park. Temperature about 34 degrees Celsius by then so, starting to tire, I returned to the hotel for a late light lunch (again watching the bustle on the river). A nice contrast with yesterday, in the countryside climbing temples. I was really sorry to leave Cambodia.

I've made contact with my Thai friend Dheb and he's taking me out this evening. I've also made contact with the people at the railway museum and I should see them Saturday or Sunday. What else I'll do, I don't know - I'm quite enjoying the breathing space. There's been a thunderstorm whilst I've been doing this but it seems to have stopped now.

My photographs of Bangkok are at Bangkok.

Saturday, 25-Jun-2005:

Well, Dheb took me for a Chinese last night (a very posh Chinese). I managed fairly well (including the chopsticks) and the grouper was superb.

Saturday, I went to see Jim Thompson's house - a museum. He was one of those larger-than-life Americans, went to Thailand at the end of the war for OSS (now CIA) and brought six old Thai houses to Bangkok and assembled his own villa. He developed the Thai modern silk trade more or less single handed and at one time ran the Oriental Hotel. Then, on holiday in Malaysia in the '60s, he disappeared. But the buildings he rescued are full of character and I enjoyed the visit.

Then by Skytain again to Chatuchak where there's a famous, huge weekend market with a free electric shuttle buggy to get you around (did not try). The live fish - presumably for aquaria - and the puppies for sale were a bit disturbing. Whole place heaving with Thais and tourists.

Next, to the 'Railway Museum'. Another shock, because my friend Sanpasiri is now too old to be involved. I'm afraid it's gone downhill and is now also the respository for all sorts of interesting but non-railway things. Anyhow, they were friendly and are trying to educate children so good luck to them.

Returned to hotel a little tired, so short rest then to the original hotel building where they still serve Afternoon Tea, with a resident pianist. I very much enjoyed that.

Then, another trip on the hotel ferry to the nearest Skytrain station (I almost think that's the best bit) and explore another part of the city, watching crowds of mainly middle-class Thais going to a major temple then checkout some of the shopping malls for contrast.

Back to the hotel for 7pm to send this e-mail, then I don't know what I'll do (probably not much). There was a super string quartet in the foyer last night - I hope they play again tonight.

Monday, 27-Jun-2005:

Well, when I got back on Sunday, I composed a long report on my day trip to Ayutthaya. It was detailed, authoritative, witty, insightful with correct Thai spellings. I hit 'send' and it disappeared, no trace, so you'll never know if I was fibbing about how good it was.

I'll try again. Sunday was 1 hour drive to the former capital of Thailand, a World Heritage Site because of the ruined temples. So the short version is "Jan looked at a load of old temples (again)". I can expand on that when I get back. Learnt about training elephants and use of elephants in warfare. Also had (another) elephant ride. Visited a restored temple with worshippers chanting plus four busloads of school kids being lectured by their various teachers. Oddly, the effect was charming. You can imagine the pile of shoes outside (one does not wear shoes in the temple). Buffet lunch in a large tourist hotel then ride round the canals in a longtail boat to visit more temples. I thought we were doing a fair lick until three Thais on jet skis roared past us! Very hot.

My photographs of Ayutthaya are at Ayutthaya.

Thunderstorm on way back, then cleared up so I had a long walk in the evening. Today, out early riding up and down the river on the water taxis. Then trip to a bookshop near the notorious Patpong (clubland) using the Skytrain (gosh, not more books, Jan?). Transfer to Don Muang airport and I'm now in the Eva Air lounge waiting for the flight on to Taipei, Taiwan at 1615. That's my last destination, then it's back home.

Tuesday, 28-Jun-2005:

Excellent flight from Bangkok to Taipei yesterday (seemed to be eating all the time and saw the bits of the film I'd missed coming from London - a lightweight children's adventure called 'The Pacifier' - quite good fun). Baggage, customs all painless, met by driver with limited English and promptly transferred to Taipei. Agora Garden is a newish rather yuppiefied large hotel in the new part of the city. I was last in Taipei about 25 years ago so, as you can imagine, the developments are staggering. 10pm by the time checked in, so retire to bed as being picked up 6.10am Tuesday for Taroko Gorge trip.

Picked up in a bus as planned and go to the 'city' airport a short ride away. When I was last here, this was still the international airport. Meet up with around 15 others and board a TransAsia Airways ATR twin turboprop for the 35 minute hop to Hualien on the East coast. Here, board large Volvo coach with tour guide who does English, Japanese and Mandarin explanations so fast, half the time I'm not sure what language he's in (I was not the only one in that predicament). It had been dry and dull in Taipei but on the East coast, it was hosing it down as we made our way up the Marble Gorge, pausing to look at a factory where they prepare granite and marble for building use.

The Gorge is a staggering place made of granite, limestone and lots of marble. Every time we got out to look at some feature, we had to cower under umbrellas and feet were soon quite wet. But the 2,000 feet from river to mountain top gives some spectacular views. Since I was last here, some of the more hair-raising bits of road have been turned over for walking and new tunnels cut for the road traffic. We do quite a bit of walking, ending up at Tienhsiang, with the prospect of a stiff hike up the hill to Hsiang-Te temple, but the rain's stopped. I made it to the temple and, for good measure, climbed to the top of the pagoda as well. Quite warm when back on the bus.

We return to Hualien, stopping for Chinese lunch at a large 'marble factory' and, what do you know, it just happens to be owned by our guide Mr Su. Then, we check out the carved marble and jewellery on offer. Twenty minutes on the beach, looking East across the Pacific then it's back to the recently-opened new airport terminal at Hualien, this time for a Far Eastern Air Transport twin jet (MD80) back to Taipei.

My photographs of the Taroko Gorge and Hualien are at Taroko Gorge and Hualien.

Another coach ride back to the hotel, arriving about 6pm. I immediately fall asleep for 4 hours, so that takes care of the rest of the day. It's now around midnight and I'm in the business centre, a booth with 4 PCs, overlooking the fairly grand (but fairly quiet) marbled entrance hall. Not decided about tomorrow yet. Mea culpa: The e-mail that got lost included an apology, which I'd better repeat, for the various typos and mis-spellings which have occurred in these messages. I'm sorry for the drop in standards but I've usually been working against the clock and (more to the point) having to pay extortionate hotel rates for use of computer!

I admit, when I arrived in Taipei at night, it seemed rather unfriendly. One thing, the Taiwanese face (probably most Chinese) tends to settle into something of a scowl in respose. The same has been said of me. But they are quick to smile and seem anxious to help (the same has not been said of me). I felt more relaxed after the trip to the East coast and a good buffet breakfast this morning.

So I set off on foot for the nearest MRT (subway) station, this morning only getting slightly lost on the way. Armed with a 1-day pass, I set off for the main railway station, which has been rebuilt since I was here last (in fact, the whole railway through the city was put underground, eliminating a number of horrendous level crossings). Didn't travel on the main line railway, but had a good look round before setting off North on the MRT again, then a taxi to the National Palace Museum. It's under major rebuilding so the exhibition space is restricted but the quality of the exhibits is outstanding. Pity about the hordes of Japanese. There was a fascinating exhibition of old (European) maps of China. Superb Chinese pen and wash paintings. The draughtsmanship is superb, but they hadn't mastered perspective and everything looks like an isometric projection.

Then caught a 'bus to Shilin MRT and after a walk round the town off North again, ending up at Hsin Pei Tou (that's the old Romanisation - Wade? - I can't cope with the new Romanisation they now use which is similar to, but not identical with, mainland China). Walk round the park, deafened by cicadas.

Then back to the city, change and out to Lungshan Temple station to look at, you've guessed, Lung Shan Temple. It always amazes me how the Buddhist/Confucian temples combine devotion with crowds of people walking and talking everywhere. But it works and I find such places very spiritual. Had a walk to look at another station (Wanhua) then further South to explore another district, then on a branch line across to Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall.

The Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall is is a huge marble building that would serve an emperor with a large statue guarded by two soldiers. Underneath, a huge museum showing features of the man's life (including his two bullet-proof 'Caddys' and the myriad decorations awarded by Nationalist China - no surprise - and all sorts of European, Middle Eastern, African and South American countries). I need to learn more about the convoluted history of the Nationalist Movement and Taiwan. Sadly, the gift shop there had got lots of tacky souvenirs but no books! Outside, on the huge parade ground, two school marching bands were practising, more or less alternately. The one was particularly good - I enjoyed that.

Getting tired by now, but determined to check out one remaining MRT line. Very interesting: driverless, fully overhead, rubber tyred with side rails for steering, 4-coach trains built by GEC Alsthom in 1992. By now getting really tired and the light's gone, so abandon walk to Taipei 101 (still the world's tallest building, I think) and return to hotel. Just had their buffet dinner (fine apart from the Japanese diners - do you see a pattern emerging?). This will probably be my last message from abroad - at 6am tomorrow I head to the airport for the long journey home. I intend to send a postscript when I'm home, so that y'all know I'm back.

My photgraphs of Taipei are at Taipei.

Well, I had to get up early but the First Class lounge at Chiang Kai Shek Airport nearly makes up for that. Yamaha player piano tinkling in one corner, a fairly full breakfast service in another corner and four swish internet machines (Sampo computers? Never heard of 'em) where I am. It's 7.25am, we board in an hour.

Twelve days of contrasts - partly engineered, partly 'cos that's the way the world is. Ho Chi Minh City was more cosmopolitan and less French than I expected, 'though the French influence is there. They spent ages trying to get rid of the French (who were financially aided by USA in the latter stages) and then the Americans hit them. The domino theory was in vogue - if Vietnam becomes communist, the whole of South East Asia will fall. The damage done was immense and the use of defoliants like Agent Orange leaves a legacy with ongoing impact. HCM City teems, like Bangkok. The usual story of country folk attracted to the big city by the (relatively) big bucks. Visiting the Mekong was a wonderful contrast - the regular flooding as the snow melts on the Himalayas makes the area very fertile - up to three rice crops a year (other areas can struggle to make one) and a more laid back way of life. Mind you, I got some nasty insect bites which were painful for a time.

Cambodia was a delight. I'd like to go back and see more. The people are friendly and struggling to improve their situation. I only saw the countryside. Again, they are suffering from a long drawn out civil war in which USA played a dubious role. Large areas of the country are still mined and, on average, two people a day are injured by mines going off. The sheer scale and sophistication of the ancient Khymer culture was an eye-opener. They achieved feats of civil engineering on a scale we'd have trouble duplicating today. And the interplay of Buddhist and Hindu belief was interesting. It was very hot and I got heat rashes all over which were a bit troublesome.

Bangkok I've always liked and I enjoyed the Oriental. The level of service is excellent. For instance, they pour your tea for you and, as you drink it, come back to top it up. They also address you by name, which is a good trick (particularly when I'm sure all Westerners look the same to them: ha ha). If you approach a lift and there's staff around, they rush to press the call button for you. One lobby porter would call the lift, hold the door for you and greet you by name. On entering the lift, you'd find he'd reached round and pressed your correct floor button as well! I enjoyed the water travel - they take their river seriously and I found it fascinating just how much traffic there is. The mass transit is convenient and gives an excuse for people-watching without being too obvious. There are an awful lot of Westerners in Bangkok.

After a while, I fell in love with Taiwan again. The city teems, just like Bangkok, and the myriad small businesses in the ground floor front of most buildings or stalls on the pavement is similar. But the culture is somewhat different. I don't know how far politics is responsible for those differences. I found it odd that Dr. Sun Yet Sen is revered both in communist China and Taiwan (Chiang Kai Chek was an aide to the doctor initially). At first, the West's approach was plucky little Taiwan, holding firm against the communist hordes - that was certainly the case when I was here before and America was piling money into Taiwan manufacturing. But now, Taiwan is an embarassment as we try to cosy up to the mainland for trade reasons or realpolitik. The World Trade Organisation has just published its 6-monthly directory of representatives after a three year delay in which China wrangled over how the Taiwanese delegates should be titled. The recent edition uses a compromise formula which has pleased no one. Oh, I nearly forgot, having a wonderful time, wish you were here.

Saturday, 2-Jul-2005:

As promised, my final message to confirm back safe and well. The flight back on Thursday was good but long. 7,500 miles with a short stop at Bangkok. Watched films, read, slept and ate. We would have been right time into Heathrow if we'd not been 'stacked' for half an hour. Baggage, immigration and customs was painless so I was soon on my way back by road arriving 10.45pm. Slept well, up early Friday. Just as well, 'cos I had an all day meeting (here, fortunately). Friday evening I went very tired but after another night's sleep I'm not too bad today (Saturday) apart from some backpain. Now, I'd better start planning again - so many countries, so little time!

Christmas 2006

Christmas this year was a little quieter but I managed to catch up with a number of friends (photos at Family and Friends). We had some severe rainstorms and fierce winds but, once the wind dropped, it wasn't cold.

On most preserved railways, the 'Santa Specials' in December are a major source of revenue and I had a couple of days driving 'Royal Pioneer' at Peak Rail (photos at Peak Rail).

This year, the Battlefield Line had B1 'Mayflower' on the 'Santa' trains (photo above) but this immaculate locomotive came with its own crew so I didn't have the opportunity to work on the engine but did manage a round trip on the footplate (more photos at Mayflower).

Best wishes to all my friends for a happy and peaceful 2007.

The Jelly

Ann decided to make me an 'Engine Jelly' for my last birthday (don't ask) and, after I'd added a little decoration, I took this photograph. At first, the prototype appeared to be an American-style 0-4-2 but the size of the trailing wheels convinced me that it is, in fact, a 4-2-0. What appears to be a coupling rod must be outside framing on the leading truck. The absence of a connecting rod on the large driving wheel suggests inside cylinders. The generous American loading gauge allows the footplate to be pitched high enough to accommodate a cranked driving axle under the cab. But such a design must have been a rough rider once the engine was run-down. Or perhaps I should get out more?

Hong Kong, 2004

In November, 2004 my friend Rita was examining students in Hong Kong. I agreed to go out for a long weekend so that we could spend some time together. The Air France flight out was not an unqualified success - they managed to lose my luggage at Charles de Gaulle and it arrived in Hong Kong in time for me to bring it back again! I arrived on Friday, 26th November 2004 and used the new airport railway to get into Hong Kong, followed by a free bus to get to my hotel. I'd decided to stay in the old part of the Peninsula Hotel, although the views are more spectacular in the new tower block (which boasts a helipad on top).

On Saturday, 27th November it wasn't long before Rita and I were making the classic trip across the harbour to Hong Kong Island on the Star Ferry. I know there are lots of alternatives these days but to me the Star Ferry means Hong Kong.

Then we went to Macau, deciding that the hydrofoil was the best option. To make good use of our limited time in Macau, we hired a taxi to take us around. Macau was, of course, a Portuguese colony and it still has a rather different 'feel' to Hong Kong. The various islands are linked by bridges to a small enclave on the mainland, where there is a border with China 'proper'. Its economy is sustained by legalised gambling. Large numbers of Chinese travel to Macau to play the Casino. All too soon, it was back to Hong Kong by hydrofoil and an evening meal in the Peninsula.

We planned an even more ambitious trip for Sunday 28th November - to Guanzhaou (Canton) in China. We were taken to the Hung Hom terminal of the famous Kowloon Canton Railway to catch the express electric train through the former New Territories to our destination. We formed part of a small group in the charge of a guide who sorted all the formalities of admission to China. The pace of building all along the route was staggering. On arrival, we joined a tour bus for a trip around the city which included a visit to the massive hall dedicated to Dr. Sun Yat Sen and an old temple. Back on the bus, we headed South by motorway to a 'country park' overlooking the Pearl River. The 'country park' includes a number of temples which do a brisk business in what one imagines is a rather uneasy partnership with the communist regime. It was a beautiful place and a joyful place and it was intriguing to glimpse how faithful many people have remained to the old beliefs, whilst also embracing communism. Another lengthly bus trip returned us to Guanzhaou for our train back to Hong Kong. A tiring but fascinating day.

On Monday, 29th November my friend Rita was back at work, so I'd promised myself a trip to one of the 'outer islands'. The Star Ferry took me to Hong Kong Island and a walk took me to the Ferry Terminal for the Outer Islands. There are a variety of destinations served by conventional and fast ferries. I decided on the conventional ferry 'Xin Chao'. These ferries carry a fair amount of wheeled-on or carried on cargo. There was also a fairly excited school party. We pulled away from the dock and slowly sailed by the improbable-looking skyline of Honk Kong Island, all skyscrapers and mountain, threading our way through a variety of water traffic from hydrofoils to sampans. As the skyscrapers fell behind, we passed various small islands, mountainous and lush and passed through the 'roads' where numerous large ships waited their turn in the huge container port at Hong Kong.

In less than an hour, we were docking at my chosen island (sorry, I've currently mislaid the name) and I disembarked at a small fishing town, obviously Chinese but as different from the high rise of Hong Kong as you could imagine. I walked through the town to discover a beautiful, sandy and deserted beach. The quiet was briefly disturbed by the school party from the ferry, happily marching to some sort of camp a little further on. Then I explored more of the town and docks, watching the coming and going of various boats. The arrival of a small ferry proved too much of a temptation and I took it, not knowing the destination which proved to be Lantau Island. We had a wonderful cruise in the late afternoon and I took the 'arty shot' which accompanies this post. On arrival at Lantau, I was lost for a while, before discovering that the ferries back to Hong Kong left from a completely different ferry terminal about 3/4 mile away. And so, tired but happy, I was whisked back to the bustle of Hong Kong on a large, fast catamaran.

Of course, I fitted in other explorations by the Hong Kong Mass Transit subway system and by tram before I had to return to the airport for my flight home.

More photographs here.

The Trials of Sam

As part of the engineering acceptance process, 'Sam' was steamed on 27th December 2006. After boiler filling and all checks, the fire was started with dry wood, adding smokeless fuel once a reasonable fire was established. Steaming time was significantly reduced by feeding the blower ring temporarily from a source of compressed air. Whilst working pressure was being obtained, the locomotive was examined and oiled. Once in steam, various tests were carried out on the performance of the boiler and locomotive. Alistair, Jan and Alan were on hand and we are grateful to Ted for the facilities provided.

Toronto, 2004

Back in July 2004, my friend Rita wanted to visit her daughter, Liz, in Canada, and I accompanied her. It was my first trip to Canada, the first time I'd flown Air Transat. I was impressed by both the country and the airline. I only got to see Toronto and its environs, plus a trip we made through the wine country to Niagara to see the falls, but that was enough to make me want to go back. Toronto is a cosmopolitan city with over 80 ethnic groups, speaking 100 languages and I found the residents very friendly. Once I'd worked out how the streetcar system worked, I was able to get around by "Riding the Rocket", as Toronto Transport Commission markets the tram and subway system. The subway is underground in the city but on the surface as you leave downtown and I used it as much as possible. I also explored parts of the commuter train system. I stayed at trendy 'Drake Hotel' on Queen Street West, midway between the city centre and the house where Liz and her partner Jen were then living, with Jen's father Ben staying in the basement flat.

We made sure of a trip by road to Niagara, taking the 'pretty route' through the wine-making area, stopping at one of the wineries for lunch and a wine tasting. As expected, Niagara is commercial and dedicated to the tourists who flock to look at the falls. To my surprise, I was not offended as you can just walk along the road to a low wall giving a close view of the Canadian Falls without paying anybody. Our time was limited but we decided to go on a trip boat. This involved a walk downstream to where a steep path leads down to a dock at water level. A series of tough little ferry boats, called 'Maid of the Mist' then 'I', 'II' and so on, take you upstream, past the American Falls and up close to the foot of the Canadian Falls. Everybody was issued with a plastic mac and, as we approached the Falls, the effect was not so much disappearing into a mist spray, rather having a fire hose turned on you. But everyone seemed to accept this with good humour and the effect of looking up at the thundering wall of water was truly 'awesome'. We disembarked rather damp but thrilled with the experience. Returning to Toronto, we stopped at a 'Diner' set in a clearing in a forested area - an idyllic, tranquil spot.

Next morning, I took the streetcar and Metro to Sheppard & Leslie Metro station, then walked to the nearest 'GO Train' (commuter train) station for a trip back to Toronto. The train was 'push-pull' with a small driving cab in the leading end of the first double-deck car of the set and a massive General Electric diesel-electric locomotive propelling from the rear. Seeing me taking photographs, the driver very kindly invited me into the cab for the journey back to Toronto Union Station.

The first time we visited the CN Tower, we found the queues daunting so instead booked lunch for the following day when the queues were even longer but the lunch reservation gave us immediate access to the express elevator to the revolving restaurant 1,150 feet above the ground. We enjoyed an excellent lunch with friendly, attentive service and, since the restaurant was only about half full, there was no hurry to leave. The restaurant makes a complete revolution in 72 minutes, giving panoramic views of the city and lots of photographic opportunities. We checked out the windy outdoor observation deck and stood on the glass floor, both 1,122 feet above the ground, but the numbers of visitors discouraged me from standing in line to catch the elevator to the Sky Pod at 1,465 feet above ground.

Returning to ground level, we looked at the outside of a preserved engine shed, a typical 'roundhouse' with concrete coaling plant alongside. Part of the building has been taken over by the 'Steam Whistle Brewery' which produces a popular premium beer. We toured the plant, all stainless steel and shiny, enjoying an informative commentary from one of the young guides. The rest of the roundhouse is not open to the public but is reputed to house a number of preserved steam locomotives.

I established the pattern of rising early and going downtown on the streetcar, each day exploring a different part of Toronto using various streetcar and subway lines, usually taking in a trip on one of the commuter trains before joining Rita and Liz for the rest of the day. My friends found this behaviour odd, but it enabled me to find out a little about the city and look at the public transport systems as well. One day Rita, Liz and I took a trip on Lake Ontario on a modern sailing ship - another great way to view the city. Another day, Ben and I tried out a preserved cargo ship which also gives trips on the Lake. Although we were under sail for part of this trip, most of it was on the auxiliary engine.

In an attempt to convince my friends I was not a complete 'anorak', on my last day I made an early morning trip to Toronto Island, set in Lake Ontario just offshore of downtown Toronto, to take 'arty' photographs of Canada Geese flying low over the lake against the rising sun. Toronto Island is a nature reserve and recreational site, about 4.5 miles long, linked to the city by three ferry routes. I turned up at the dock bright and early, to find the place deserted. Eventually, I found one employee who said he didn't think the ferries started so early on a Saturday. A ferry arrived and enquiries were made - yes, they'd take me. Another panic - all the ticket machines were locked! The employee waved me aboard with a laconic "You're one lucky lady - you get to go for free!". There was only one other passenger and when we docked on the island, he was met by a fire truck, as he was apparently one of the island's firemen! Some people live or stay on the island, but it was pretty quiet and I was able to take some nature photographs. Halfway along the island, I saw another ferry at the second dock, but I'd determined to carry on to the third dock at the far end of the island. When the ferry arrived, it was the 'Ongiara' - the ferry I'd come over on. The deck hand welcomed me aboard with "You're hard to get rid of!"

It was a great trip and I hope to return to see more of Canada.

So where are all these photographs? At the time, I was still using my trusty Canon EOS with real film and I've not yet had the pictures scanned in, but they'll be posted as soon as possible.

You can find the pictures I've so far scanned here and pictures of railways, subway and streetcars appear in a number of sets in the collection Present-day Railways (Overseas).

Review of the Year, 2006

Well, it's conventional at this time of year to summarise the high spots of the year. Trouble is, as I get older, it's hard to remember earlier than last Wednesday (although odd experiences when I was about nine stand out in stark clarity). The holiday in February was definitely a high spot. Just imagine, Mexico, Ecuador, Galapagos, Chile, French Polynesia, Australia and India! The photograph above shows blue skies over the old British-built prison in Fremantle, Western Australia. For more details, refer to my travel post on this trip here).

Returning to work, 2006 became quite manic, so this took up a lot of my energy. But there was still a little time for engine driving at Peak Rail ('Royal Pioneer', technical photos here), The Battlefield Line (mainly 'Thomas the Tank' events, technical photos here) and Manchester Museum of Science and Industry ('Planet' replica, technical photos at here).

In August, I attended the annual 'Lionsmeet' event in Southport, where live steam models of 'Lion' compete (photos here). As far as the real 'Lion' is concerned, it's been a quiet year. Although I remain a member of the Old Locomotive Committee (the locomotive's supporters group), I've had to give up the task of producing the group's newsletter 'Lionsheart' because of the various demands on my time. (technical photos of 'Lion' are here).

I've also had to give up my roles on the 2-foot gauge Derbyshire Dales Railway where I've been helping for the last few years (photographs here).

During 2006, I became involved in the project to bring a 2-foot gauge live-steam locomotive, 'Phoenix', from Australia to the United Kingdom. Well, the locomotive has arrived and engineering acceptance is proceeding (more details here).

And so we approach Christmas, full of thankfulness for the good things this year and hope for the year to come.

West Bridgford Christmas Market

West Bridgford is hard by a well-known cricket ground in Nottingham. This year, there was a Christmas Market to co-incide with the switching-on of the Christmas Lights (thank goodness, they still celebrate Christmas and not some strange 'Winterval').

It had been arranged that the 2-foot gauge steam locomotive 'Sam' would make an appearance although not, sadly, in steam. Well, it took a lot of effort by a lot of people (thanks to all of them) but it happened. As the day wore on, more and more children came to visit 'Sam' and climb into the cab. 'Sam' had a big working headlight and a cheery face but the best part was being able to ring the bell! British steam engines didn't normally carry a bell but it's still mandatory even with modern diesels in some countries.

Malcolm and Anne Sales of Buttercross Photography were on hand to produce souvenir photographs - more details at Buttercross Photography.< /p>

There was a large Craft Fair organised by Alan Woolley. Alan revealed some details of Sam's Secret Fudge Mine. It appears that fudge is mined at a secret location and Sam is sometimes employed in drawing out the freshly-mined fudge. To prove the point, he had a model of the actual fudge mine (although its precise location remains a closely-guarded secret). On demand, a 'G' scale model of Sam would emerge from the mine entrance hauling a single wagon loaded with fudge. I tried the fudge, which was available in various flavours (presumably according to the strata it was extracted from) and confirm it was good. I'm sorry I couldn't photograph the model but Alan is anxious that the details of the mine remain secret.

More photographs of Sam's Big Day Out at West Bridgford.

Sam

'Phoenix' is a 2-foot gauge live steam locomotive built by Keith Watson and Keith Tingle in Australia in 2001. It has recently been imported into the U.K. and is currently undergoing engineering acceptance with a view to visiting suitable railways here.

I've been involved in standard gauge preservation for over twenty years but a few years ago I also joined the 2-foot gauge Derbyshire Dales Railway and these smaller gauges are starting to grow on me. I'm old enough to remember when most trains were steam trains and I think myself fortunate for that experience. But, as time goes on, people who remember these steam days become fewer. If the preservation movement is to continue, we need to bring in younger people with no direct experience of steam trains. Miniature railways and narrow-gauge lines are a good way of introducing younger children to the excitement of railways because, being smaller, the locomotives are less intimidating.

'Phoenix' is a locomotive with great character which appeals to adults and children alike. It's based on the small H.K. Porter design of contractors and mining locomotives built in large numbers in the United States in various sizes and various gauges. To make life easier for our younger friends, 'Phoenix' has been informally called 'Sam the Steam Engine', or simply 'Sam'.

You can find more photgraphs of 'Sam' at 'Phoenix'.