Events of Friday, 1st April 2022
March straddles the end of winter and the beginning of spring in the U.K. and the old adage has it that the month 'Comes in like a Lion, goes out like a Lamb'. But that didn't seem to work in 2022 when we experienced unusually balmy weather in the middle of the month which turned bitterly cold with snow in places at the end of the month. The last day of March struggled to raise the temperature much above freezing where I live, despite weak sunshine, and we experienced a number of snow showers. None-the-less, I determined to make a day trip to New Brighton the following day, despite the possible weather conditions. I booked a First Class railway ticket on-line, partly because the early booking offered useful discount compared with booking at the station, partly to discourage me from changing my mind and cancelling the trip.
It was a cold, frosty but dry morning on 1st April. With some reluctance, I arose early and caught the first bus from Brewood to Wolverhampton at 07:30. This gave me plenty of time to walk to the railway station where the huge, new building on platform 1 appalled me yet again before I made my way over the older of the two footbridges to platform 2 to wait for the 08:21 to Liverpool Lime Street.
I believe passenger figures nationwide are still only around 60 or 70 per cent of pre-pandemic levels so I was fairly surprised at the numbers waiting to board the train, formed of two 4-car Class 350 'Desiro' Electric Multiple Units (EMU). I made myself comfortable in the First Class section and we made an on-time journey to Liverpool.
To my delight, on arrival, sunlight was flooding in through the impressive train shed roof at Liverpool Lime Street so, as usual, I purchased a 1-day All Zones 'Saveaway' ticket from the booking office on the main concourse. Although Railcards are not valid for this ticket, at £5.65 for virtually unlimited travel by bus, train and Mersey Ferry within Merseyside, this is an attractive choice.
Liverpool Area Rail: Lime Street station Main Concourse in 2017
Armed with this ticket, I went down the escalator to the pedestrian passage leading under busy Lime Street to access the deep-level single Merseyrail platform situated on the Liverpool Loop via another escalator. I'd decided not to visit Liverpool Museum first, but to head straight to New Brighton. Services are still provided by elderly Class 507 and 508, built by British Rail Engineering Limited (BREL) at York, since refurbished but overdue to be replaced by Statler Class 777. For more information on all these electric trains, see 'Related posts on other websites' below. On previous journeys through Crewe and on my way to Liverpool that morning, I'd seen Class 777 at Crewe Traincare Depot but I've not yet seen these units in the Liverpool area, where test running with 'ghost trains' is supposed to be happening prior to introduction on public services later in 2022.
New Class 777 at Crewe Traincare Depot (Return to New Brighton)
I boarded the first train to arrive, a careworn but game Class 507/508 heading for West Kirby. I pondered whether to stay on this service to West Kirby but as we made our way under the River Mersey through the remarkable tunnel first opened in 1886 (described in a post here), I decided to alight at Birkenhead Park and wait for the next New Brighton Train.
Birkenhead Park now has just one island platform but was originally the interchange between the Mersey Railway and the Wirral Railway and must have once been a frantic place with trains from both directions terminating and steam locomotives running round. The LMS electrification of the Wirral Lines in the 1930s ended this activity and allowed trains to run through to Liverpool. I walked up the long, stepped ramp to the street to check out the undistinguished modern station building but decided not to walk to the famous park (which claims to be the first publicly-funded park in the world) giving the station its name but instead returned to the platform for the New Brighton Service and a speedy (if noisy) journey to my destination. I always admire the simple, airy design of the booking hall at New Brighton station, but I'd not seen the piratical character swinging from the roof before, whose significance, other than to reinforce the maritime credentials of the location, eludes me.
Piratical figure hanging from the roof at New Brighton station (Return to New Brighton)
Immediately outside the station, the promenade is visible, about 400 yards away, looking north down Atherton street.
Looking north down Atherton Street from the station (Return to New Brighton)
I normally prefer to take the longer route east down Victoria Road, passing one of New Brighton's examples of modern public art (a series of mermaids). Bewilderingly, the figure near the staion is extensively tattooed and titled 'The Inked Siren of Black Rock'. The road leads past St. James Church (1856, Gothic Revival style by George Gilbert Scott) and Wallasey Post Office.
The Inked Siren of Black Rock (Return to New Brighton)
On my previous visit in August 2021, I saw my first knitted 'postbox topper' at Wallasey Post Office: I discovered it now showed a topical Easter theme.
Easter-themed 'postbox topper' at Wallasey Post Office (Return to New Brighton)
I continued on Victoria Parade to the promenade where it was near high tide but I still couldn't resist spending a few minutes on the small patch of golden sand remaining.
New Brighton Beach: Fort Perch Rock, Lighthouse and Seatruck Ro-Ro ferry departing for Dublin (Return to New Brighton)
This part of the beach provides views across the estuary of the River Mersey to Seaforth Docks just 1 mile away and the Liverpool 2 Deepwater Port where container ship MSC MANDY was berthed. Built in 1993 and Panama-flagged, this ship is 237m long and 32m wide with a DWT of 48,852. Afterwards, I learned she'd arrived late the previous evening and after a 2-day stay left for Portugal, Spain and Montreal.
MSC MANDY berthed at Liverpool 2 (Return to New Brighton)
Fort Perch Rock is still closed but a banner promises 'The Ultimate Live Action Escape Room Experience' once the website at 'escapethefort.com' is open. I made my way onto the north-facing beach to admire the lighthouse and then take in the less-admirable appearance of the Burbo Bank Offshore Wind Farm to the west. I still haven't identified the intriguing maintenance vessel in amongst the wind turbines.
New Brighton Lighthouse, decommissioned 1973 (Return to New Brighton)
Burbo Bank Offshore Wind Farm showing maintenance vessel with jack-up legs and crane (Return to New Brighton)
The pleasant weather had encouraged lots of people to take a stroll but the between-the-wars block of cafes and amusement arcades facing the Marine Lake remained firmly shuttered.
"... the between-the-wars block of cafes and amusement arcades facing the Marine Lake remained firmly shuttered." (Return to New Brighton)
I walked back to the station, pausing for an enjoyable English breakfast at the Smuggler's Cave cafe I'd used on my last visit. The timetable was showing four departures every hour to Liverpool but the next was shown as cancelled so, whilst waiting, I studied, with approval, the building repairs which have been completed.
The 3-car electric arrived and discharged quite a few passengers. By the time we left, there was a fair passenger loading and we returned, stopping at all stations, losing and gaining passengers at each stop. I got off at Birkenead Hamilton Square and took an electric lift to the surface. Originally, the lifts were hydraulically worked and the impressive tower housed the hydraulic accumulator.
Hamilton Square station, Birkenhead, viewed from Hamilton Square (Return to New Brighton)
Checking the time of the next ferry to Liverpool, I decided I'd time to first briefly re-visit nearby Hamilton Square which lends its name to the railway station.
The 63 elegant late-Georgian houses erected between 1825 and 1844 were designed by James Gillespie Graham and all are now listed Grade I. Even the parked cars, wheelie bins, rooftop television aerials and a myriad satellite dishes fail to destroy the impact of these well-proportioned buildings. The serried ranks of chimney pots atop the roof serve as a reminder of just how labour-intensive such dwellings were in the age of heating by coal fires, necessitating armies of servants.
Hamilton Square, Birkenhead (Return to New Brighton)
Satisfied with my short visit to Hamilton Square, I walked towards Woodside Ferry Terminal, passing Shore Road Pumping Station. This impressive building was built by James Brunlees and Charles Fox around 1886 to house two large Grasshopper Beam engine pumps supplied by Andrew Barclay needed to remove water from the Mersey Railway Tunnel. Following the installation of electric pumps in 1959, one of the original pumps was restored and, known as the 'Giant Grasshopper' the building was opened to the public as a museum. I was fortunate enough to visit once years ago and, despite being the only visitor, the attendant operated the pump mechanism for me (using compressed air rather than steam). Sadly, by 2014 public opening of the museum had ceased.
Shore Road Pumping Station, Birkenhead (Return to New Brighton)
I discovered that a number of wooden sheds had appeared adjacent to the Ferry Terminal at Birkenhead Woodside forming a retail initiative called 'Woodside Food & Market' and 'Woodside Makers Bakers & Creators Market'. It was closed on my visit but I believe opened over Easter (and, sorry, I think the organisers, Woodside Ferry Village, call the sheds 'chalets').
'Woodside Food & Market' and 'Woodside Makers Bakers & Creators Market' adjacent to the Ferry Terminal at Birkenhead Woodside (Return to New Brighton)
After a few minutes, the ferry 'Snowdrop' appeared, heading upstream towards the landing stage. Seacombe terminal remained closed so the ferry had come directly from Pier Head, taking a downstream loop so that passengers had had a view of some of the riverside features during the journey.
'Snowdrop' arriving at Birkenhead Woodside Landing Stage (Return to New Brighton)
On the ebb tide, the ferry came directly alongside (starboard side to the landing stage) and passengers quickly disembarked. Once on board, I took up my usual position on the upper foredeck ready to study the departure.
'Snowdrop' at Birkenhead Woodside Landing Stage (Return to New Brighton)
On the return journey, the ferry makes an upstream loop, whilst the pre-recorded commentary describes the riverside features. As we passed Monk's Ferry, I decided I really must plan a visit to the remains of Birkenhead Priory and St. Mary's Church. There's a detailed website here.
Monks' Ferry, Birkenhead with St. Mary's Church in background (Return to New Brighton)
There was the usual cluster of Royal Navy vessels at the Cammell Laird shipyard. In the Wet Dock, Replenishment Tanker A136 'Tidespring' was back. I'd seen it there on a 2019 visit (report here). Also in the Wet Dock was Type 45 Destroyer D33 'HMS Dauntess'. A second, unidentified Type 45 was in dry dock.
L-R: D33, A136, unidentified Type 45 at Cammell Laird, Birkenhead (Return to New Brighton)
The ferry continued past Tranmere, where EVA MAERSK was moored, with the usual attendant tug. Afterwards, I found that EVA MAERSK, a crude oil tanker, was built in 2017, registered in Denmark, 274m long, 50m beam. She'd arrived a couple of days before from Ingleside, Texas and departed later the day I saw her for Scapa Flow.
EVA MAERSK at Tranmere (Return to New Brighton)
The ferry then made a wide turn to port so as to cross to the Liverpool side of the river. A chill wind then hit the exposed deck and, within a minute or two, I was the only passenger left outside. Our turn offered a view of Seacombe Landing Stage with the new linkspan bridges fitted. Afterwards, I found pictures of the installation taking place in October 2021 in the 'Wirral Globe'. The heavy lift was carried out by Liverpool's resident floating crane, LARA 1 (mentioned in my earlier report here).
Seacombe Landing Stage, still closed but showing the new linkspan bridges installed in October 2021 (Return to New Brighton)
Tug/Fire Fighting Ship SVITZER AMAZONAS, going upriver, crossed behind us and I managed a reasonable picture. The Peel Ports website offered fairly comprehensive technical data here.
Tug SVITZER AMAZONAS, going upriver (Return to New Brighton)
Approaching the landing stage at Pier Head, I was surprised to see another naval vessel moored at the Liverpool Cruise Terminal. Although oddly anonymous and without flags, it still carried the identity A386 so, afterwards, it was a simple task to identify the vessel as the former Royal Fleet Auxiliary dry stores ship 'Fort Austin', decommissioned with sister ship 'Fort Rosalie' in 2021 and sold to the Egyptian Navy. I'd seen 'Fort Austin' in the Cammell Laird shipyard back in 2016 (see report here) and, previously in 2014, found 'Fort Rosalie' in the West Float at Birkenhead (see report here).
Former former Royal Fleet Auxiliary dry stores ship A386 'Fort Austin' at Liverpool Cruise Terminal, decommissioned and sold to Egypt (Return to New Brighton)
Because the tide was still ebbing, the ferry first went downstream of the landing stage and then turned to starboard so as to put the port side of the vessel against the landing stage. As we moored, I took (another) picture of the iconic Liver Building and noted that, once again, there seems to be a problem with the clock.
The Liver Building, Pierhead, Liverpool, with clockface facing river showing wrong time (Return to New Brighton)
Passing the statue of the 'Fab Four', I finally took my own picture showing the compulsion people seem to have to be photographed with the rather oversized figures of the Beatles.
Photograph with the Beatles, Pier Head, Liverpool (Return to New Brighton)
I made a quick visit to Liverpool Museum to check on the locomotive 'Lion' in the Great Port Gallery (discovering that not all the audio-visual presentations were working).
The Footplate of 'Lion' in the Museum of Liverpool (Return to New Brighton)
It was only a little after two o'clock and I pondered what to do next but, noting that my energy levels were falling rapidly, I decided that the sensible course would be to go to Lime Street and catch the 15:05 West Midland Trains back to Wolverhampton. It didn't take as long as I allowed to walk to James Street Merseyrail station, descend to the platforms by lift, catch the electric train to Liverpool Lime Street Low Level and take the escalators to the main station so I was back on the main concourse for about half past two with a while to wait for the planned 15:05 departure. The arrival of an Avanti 'Pendolino' prompted me to check its departure time (14:47) and stops (Runcorn, Crewe, Stafford). The second member of platform staff I asked confirmed my ticket was valid on Avanti (the first, although dealing with passenger enquiries didn't know) so I plodded down the platform towards the remote First Class section. I discovered Avanti now have a section of Standard Premium seating and, with legs aching, I decided that would do.
Avanti West Coast Standard Premium seating (Return to New Brighton)>
The journey to Stafford was comfortable and uneventful. I finally managed a reasonable picture of the now-decommissioned Fiddler's Ferry Power Station which could produce a staggering 1,989 MW of power from its four 500 MW alternators. Don't start me on the national self-harm caused by deliberately destroying proven plant like this before robust replacement solutions are in place.
Fiddler's Ferry decommissioned power station viewed from train approaching Runcorn
Apart from some expected wind chill on part of my ferry crossing, the weather had been grand but we arrived at Stafford on time in a heavy sleet storm. My intention had been to change at Stafford for a Wolverhampton train but I suddenly felt very cold so decided I'd take a taxi home. But it was not to be - there were no taxis - so I doubled-back into the station and located the platform for a Wolverhampton train in just a few minutes. At least there was no sleet on arrival at Wolverhampton and I gratefully climbed into a taxi for home having had a most enjoyable day.
Related posts on other websites
Class 507 (Wikipedia)
Class 508 (Wikipedia)
Class 777 (Wikipedia)
Birkenhead Priory
Svitzer Amazonas data.
Related posts on this website
A day trip to Liverpool (2021)
On foot around Liverpool Docks (2) (2014)
Merseyside in December (2016)
Birkenhead and New Brighton by train (Part 2)
To see all my Merseyside posts Click here or select label 'Merseyside'.
My pictures
Liverpool area rail Earlier pictures
Merseyrail Earlier pictures
Return to New BrightonPictures on this trip
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