The day before my trip, I'd managed to book train tickets, after some difficulty with the online 'app'. The government advice was strongly recommending social distancing (and mask-wearing in crowded locations) so I decided to travel First Class.
Our local buses were operating a reduced service and I decided I'd better take the 07:30 service from Brewood, not being quite sure whether the next bus (the 08:35) was actually running. I was the only passenger on the 07:30 bus, although two other passengers had joined before we reached Wolverhampton. The usual walk to the railway station followed, through the seemingly perpetual obstacle course of roadworks affecting the station approach road from the town. Technically, Wolverhampton is now a city but it has never managed to generate the sense of excitement that a decent city evokes. The road approach to the station is now via a very indirect and congested route (for which my company's former premises in Corn Hill were sacrificed). The original approach has been converted to carry a double-track extension to the station for the West Midlands Metro which the operators claim will open later in 2021.
The new station buildings at Wolverhampton Station are now in use but manage to appear, to me, even uglier than the British Rail brutalist structure they replace. Pedestrian access at present is a convoluted passage through ongoing building works. Refreshment facilities are currently limited to what appears to be a 4-wheel converted horsebox parked outside the new building. Brave new world!
The 08:21 to Liverpool arrived on time - two 4-car Class 350 'Desiro' Electric Multiple Units. I found a seat in the First Class section of the leading 4-car set. There was one other passenger already there and two more passengers joined at later stops but with good soundproofing I found it quite pleasant, although the 'swishing' of the air conditioning (possibly turned well-up as a Coronavirus infection mitigation measure) was noticeable. With 'air bag' suspension the Class 350 ride well and the route has Continuous Welded Rail virtually throughout. We had an uneventful run through the familar territory and rolled into Liverpool Lime Street on time at 09:40.
I walked to the main booking office to purchase a 1-day All Areas 'Saveaway' ticket which would cover whatever travels I decided to take. I knew I would start with a descent to the underground Merseyrail station at Lime Street, taking a train on the single-line 'Liverpool Loop' two stops to James Street. The 'Liverpool Loop' was an ingenious solution by British Rail to the problem of improving access to the underground system which originally only went to Central Station, not serving Lime Street at all. Traversing the deep level 'Loop' meant that incoming trains were 'reversed' to become outgoing trains.
Liverpool Loop 1977 (Wikipedia)
Click for larger image
In common with all transport enterprises, Merseyrail was operating a 'Coronavirus' schedule which, on the Wirral Line, meant three trains an hour from Liverpool to Chester, West Kirby and New Brighton and two trains an hour to Ellesmere Port, so having descended to platform level by escalators I didn't have long to wait as all trains from Lime Street go to James Street. The fleet is still 3-car EMU Class 507 and Class 508/1 built between 1978 and 1980 but new Statler-built 4-car Class 777 are starting to arrive for pre-service testing. Merseyrail have announced that Class 777 'ghost trains' have been added into the service pattern, stopping at all stations but not boarding passengers. At James Street, a short flight of steps led from the platform to the 'mezzanine' level immediately above the tunnels and then a series of large electric lifts returned me to ground level.
Outside, there was bright sunshine and it was a pleasant walk of half-a-mile to the Museum of Liverpool near Pier Head. Strand Street appeared to be undergoing major alterations so it took a moment to determine the best way to cross into Mann Island but I still reached the Museum at ten o'clock, as the doors were opened. My visit, as usual, was to check on one of their major exhibits, the locomotive 'Lion', dating from 1838. I'm still Secretary of the 'Lion' supporters group The Old Locomotive Committee but the Covid Pandemic has cancelled the group's face-to-face activities for two years. The locomotive was secure (if a little dusty) and the video interpretations on-demand appeared to be in order. A note adjacent to the selection pushbuttons claimed that a special coating had been applied to reduce the chance of contact infection.
Liverpool (again): Locomotive 'Lion' in the Museum of Liverpool (yes, that's me pontificating on the left hand small screen).
Should you wish to find out more about 'Lion', both prototype and models, or the Old Locomotive Committee, all my posts on this topic are here.
Having completed my 'inspection' I was soon back outside. It was sunny with a bracing wind coming off the river and I had an enjoyable walk along the quay and around the elegant Old Pilotage Building as I watched Mersey Ferry 'Snowdrop' (still in her 'Razzle-Dazzle' livery) make her way to Birkenhead Woodside on the opposite bank of the Mersey.
Liverpool (again): View looking south along King's Parade showing the rear of Albert Dock Warehouses.
Liverpool (again): Mersey Ferry 'Snowdrop' dwarfed by the Stena Line Ro-Ro ferry preparing to depart.
I watched as the Stena Line ferry eased away from the Twelve Quays berth and turned through 180 degrees so as to point seawards. I assumed she would stay more-or-less mid-channel en route for Belfast but a little later I could she that she'd manoeuvred towards the Liverpool shore. I didn't solve the puzzle as I could also see 'Snowdrop' making her way back to Pier Head and I wanted to catch her 11:00 departure. By the time I'd walked to the Mersey Ferry booking office, secured my ticket and queued for boarding (the sailing seemed very busy), the Stena ferry was out of sight, my view blocked by the alien-looking bulk of the 96-metre long HSC 'Manannan', the High Speed, wave-piercing passenger/Ro-Ro Catamaran at the berth just north of Pier Head used by the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company.
Liverpool (again): View from Mersey Ferry 'Snowdrop' of the bow of the 96-metre long HSC 'Manannan', the High Speed, wave-piercing passenger/Ro-Ro Catamaran
Normally, the Ferry sails from Pier Head to Seacombe in a generous loop downstream, then proceeds upstream to Birkenhead Woodside and finally returns to Pier Head in a generous loop upstream. However, I'd learnt that Seacombe ferry terminal was closed for major maintenance and redevelopment. The Mersey Ferries site reports:-
The works will see the linkspan bridges, which are over 130 years old and coming to the end of their operational life, replaced and the landing stage undergo a major refurbishment, including upgrading the mooring bollards and installing new powered gangways. The pontoon will be removed from the water to carry out these works.'Snowdrop' slipped away from Pier Head a few minutes late, having waited for passengers, and we headed downstream passing the familiar features on the Liverpool side whilst the pre-recorded commentary explained some of the history of the city and its landmarks. Level with Wallesey Town Hall, we turned across channel and I could see the Stena ferry making its way downstream near the deepwater port Liverpool2, equipped with eight massive container cranes but untroubled by a container ship that day. Modern large container ships are rarely alongside at a port for more than a day, whilst multiple container cranes unload and load shipping containers, then the next voyage commences, making best utilisation of the expensive asset.
Liverpool (again): Outbound Stena Line Ro-Ro ferry passing the deepwater port Liverpool2, with its 8 Chinese-built container crames.
The ferry turned upstream and sailed imperiously past Seacombe ferry terminal, looking very odd with both linkspan bridges removed, isolating the pontoon.
Liverpool (again): Seacombe ferry terminal looking very odd with both linkspan bridges to the pontoon removed
We continued past the Ro-Ro ferry berth at Twelve Quays, empty following the earlier departure of the Stena Line ferry.
Liverpool (again): The empty Ro-Ro ferry berth at Twelve Quays, with the buildings of Birkenhead Docks behind
'Snowdrop' passed Birkenhead Woodside ferry terminal, then made a 180 degree turn to starboard so as to come alongside the pontoon against the incoming tide, moored, and the manually-operated gangway was aligned and lowered into place. I disembarked and walked through the linkspan bridge. This was fairly inclined because the tide was still coming in and the Mersey has a tidal range of 4 metres (neap tides) to 13 metres (spring tides). I afterwards looked up the Gladstone Dock predictions for that day which gave low tide a little before 10:00 with the level rising by 7.5 metres by high tide just after 15:00. At each ferry terminal, the floating pontoons and the hinging linkspans allow ferries to operate at all states of tide.
Having passed through the terminal building, I then had a walk of a few hundred yards to the Merseyrail station at Hamilton Square, where my 'Saveaway' ticket allowed me to take one of the large, electric lifts to the mezzanine area then I took the steps to the platform for trains to West Kirby and New Brighton. I boarded the first train which was bound for West Kirby but then decided to change at Birkenhead North (before the two routes diverge) and wait for the following New Brighton train. I thought that I might catch a glimpse of one of the new Class 777 trains as we passed the depot just past Birkenhead North station but all I could see was a row of 'old' trains. We made brief stops at Wallasey Village and Wallasey Grove Road stations and, looking north, the sea came into view. My enjoyment of this sight was somewhat reduced by the sight of the Burbo Bank and Burbo Bank Extension offshore wind farms.
The Burbo Bank wind farm, owned by Ørsted, came into use in 2007 and can produce up to 90 MW of power from 25 wind turbines. Power comes ashore via an undersea cable to a substation in Wallasey.
The Burbo Bank Extension wind farm, to the west of the original installation is 50% owned by Ørsted together with PSA and 'Lego' owners Kirkbi and was commissioned in 2017. It can produce up to 258 MW of power from 32 wind turbines. Power comes ashore near Rhyl via an undersea cable which then connects to a substation at Bodelwyddan.
New Brighton station is a neat, 2-platform affair. The original staion building in red brick built by the Wirral Railway survives and extensive external scaffolding pointed to repairs being carried out. The platform has a reinforced concrete umbrella roof, which I assume is an L.M.S. legacy. With staffed booking office, toilets and a small cafe it's a reminder of what railway stations should be like.
Liverpool (again): New Brighton station, view looking towards Birkenhead North
The shortest walk to the sea is to the north-facing promenade but I always prefer the longer walk along Victoria Road to the east-facing promenade looking across the Mersey to Seaforth and its docks. I stopped to record the post box outside Wallasey Post Office which has acquired an eleborate, knitted hat featuring 'Olly Octopus'.
Liverpool (again): The post box outside Wallasey Post Office has an eleborate, knitted hat featuring 'Olly Octopus'
The fish and chip shop which I've used before was firmly closed but Victoria Road offers a number of alternatives for food and drink so instead I stopped for a light meal at the Smuggler's Cave cafe, which was enjoyable and excellent value. Somewhat restored, I completed my walk to the familar seafront, emerging near what was, when I was young, the entrance to the pier. The beach looked inviting so I made my way down the ramp onto the sandy shore I'd first visited over 70 years previously. Looking to the north, Fort Perch Rock (the fort built in the 1820s to protect Liverpool) and the now-decommissioned New Brighton lighthouse were visible.
Liverpool (again): New Brighton beach with Fort Perch Rock and New Brighton lighthouse in the background.
Wikipedia has an article on Fort Perch Rock here.
Liverpool (again): The older Liverpool Docks viewed from the beach at New Brighton
The view across the River Mersey from New Brighton has changed considerably since my first visit. Seaforth Dock was opened in 1971 and, more recently, Liverpool2 has added deepwater berths and the eight massive, red container cranes which dominate the view.
Liverpool (again): View from New Brighton Promenade showing Liverpool2 with Seaforth Dock behind as a dredger heads upstream
I left the seafront and headed back up Victoria Road towards the railway station. Rockpoint Leisure have been involved in a regeneration project seeking to create a new cultural heart for New Brighton and the 'Victoria Quarter', as they term it, is certainly home to an eclectic mix of premises. I was intrigued by a display of historical photographs from a previous art exhibition by Devil's Nest showing New Brighton Pier, finally lost in 1972.
Liverpool (again): Historic aerial view of New Brighton with Fort Perch Rock near top, New Brighton Tower building intact but tower demolished. Victoria Road runs left to right, terminating near the entrance to the Pier with its ferry landing stage (from a picture displayed by Devil's Nest)
There's some information about the pier on the National Piers Society site here.
When I arrived at the railway station, a train was already waiting, with a number of passengers already aboard and still a few minutes before departure, so I settled myself for the journey back to Birkenhead Hamilton Square.
Liverpool (again): The landward view leaving Wallasey Village station
I'd not yet seen one of the new Class 777 trains, so I kept a good lookout as we approached the depot at Birkenhead North, in the hope of parhaps catching a glimpse. There was one odd trainset, part hidden hehind a row of the usual EMU but it was a Vivarail Class 230, now used on the Transport for Wales Bidston - Wrexham services.
Liverpool (again): Transport for Wales Class 230 at Birkenhead North Depot. Various versions have been created by Vivarail, completely remodelling redundant London Underground 'D' stock
The train would have taken me directly to Lime Street Station, passing under the Mersey in the tunnel opened in 1886 (described in a post here) but the lure of the Mersey Ferry was too great so I left the train at Birkenhead Hamilton Square and re-traced my footsteps back to Woodside Ferry Terminal.
Liverpool (again): Birkenhead Woodside Ferry Terminal Building
Once again, I was lucky with my timing as the ferry was due in just under 10 minutes. I watched a red-painted 'UNIBALTIC' petrol/chemical tanker, riding very low in the water, head downstream and then 'Snowdrop' appeared and passed the landing stage heading upstream before turning 180 degrees so as to make a final approach to the pontoon.
Liverpool (again): 'Snowdrop' approaching the Landing Stage at Birkenhead Woodside
Unusually, 'Snowdrop' came against the landing stage with an audible 'clang' and, as the gangway was lowered, there was noticeable movement between the ship and the pontoon but passengers disembarked and boarded without too much difficulty. We were quickly underway again, pulling away from the pontoon heading downstream then turning upstream to give views of the Cammell Laird Shipyard on the Birkenhead river bank. I managed to identify Royal Fleet Auxiliary A139 'Tideforce' in the Wet Basin. Launched in 2017, 'Tideforce' is the last of four Tide-class replenishment tankers built for the British Royal Fleet Auxiliary by Daewoo in South Korea. On my previous trip to Liverpool in 2020 here, I'd seen A137 'Tiderace' and A138 'Tidesurge' in the same Wet Basin.
Liverpool (again): Royal Fleet Auxiliary A139 'Tideforce' in the Wet Basin at Cammell Laird Shipyard, Birkenhead>
We continued upstream as far as Tranmere Oil Terminal which receives all the crude oil processed by the Essar Oil Refinery further upstream at Stanlow. There's more information on the Essar Oil site here. An unidentified tanker was moored. Crude oil arriving at Tranmere reaches the Essar Oil refinery at Stanlow via a 15 mile pipeline.
Liverpool (again): Unidentified tanker moored at Tranmere Oil Terminal. Note tug near port bow.
Liverpool (again): View looking upstream from 'Snowdrop' as she heads across the river to the Liverpool side, with Stanlow refinery in the distance.
We made the customary smooth approach to the pontoon at Pier Head and, as I disembarked, I could see that there was a good crowd waiting to board. I spent a little while wandering around the Waterfront area, enjoying the good weather. I was amused by a Rolls Royce car which arrived, decorated in rather 'fairground' style, delivering its passengers to Pier Head.
Liverpool (again): A Rolls Royce, in flamboyant livery, delivering its passengers to Pier Head.
Once again, I was impressed with the appearance of the Grade II* Port of Liverpool Building, now in private ownership. There's a Wikipedia article here. The elaborate cast iron gates face the Waterfront and shields incorporate the initials 'MDHB' in script characters for the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board who erected the building, which was finished in 1907. The larger, stone gate piers are topped with large balls, decorated with outlines of the continents, forming a globe of the earth.
Liverpool (again): Port of Liverpool Building
I then walked back to James Street Merseyrail station, descended to platform level and caught the arrival next from Birkenhead. I still had well over an hour before the train I had booked back to Wolverhampton. I toyed with the idea of taking a ride on the Northern Line (one way or another) but was reluctant to risk running out of time so I travelled to Lime Street station, where I found an imminent departure to Crewe via Manchester Airport whose first stop was just five minutes out of Lime Street at Edge Hill station. Unable to resist this temptation, I made my way to platform 2 where I found a Northern refurbished EMU already 'full to the gills' with a stream of passengers still trying to join the train. I managed to squeeze onto the first coach but a few people decided against using the cramped train. A few minutes later, I got off at Edge Hill. It was my first ride on one of Northern's second-hand EMU.
Liverpool (again): Edge Hill station. The freight train standing in Tuebrook Sidings on the left is imported biomass via Liverpool Docks for Drax Power Station
I discovered there was a train to take me back to Lime Street in just a few minutes so, rather than risk getting stranded waiting for a later service, I decided to take it. This train comprised two 4-car sets of Class 331 EMU built by CAF in Spain and brought into service in 2019. Although I'd seen the Class 331 in various locations this was my first ride on this class. Fairly comfortable (and not crowded as my outbound journey).
Safely back at Lime Street, there was still some time before catching the 16:47 Avanti service to London so I had a walk around the St. Johns shopping district before puchasing a drink and a snack at Marks and Spencers inside Lime Street Station before finally boarding the Class 390 'Pendolino', reporting number 1A57, at platform 9. This service stops at Liverpool Parkway, Runcorn and then Stafford arriving 17:40, so I had the experience of speeding through Crewe on the Up Through. After Stafford, this train then takes the Trent Valley line to Rugby. At Stafford I changed to the West Midland Trains service which was following from Crewe to complete my journey back to Wolverhampton.
Whilst waiting on Stafford platform 4, a down Freightliner train going well hurried through platform 5, hauled by a pair of Class 90 electric locomotives. Impressed by the sight, I afterwards used Railcam UK to identify the train as 4M88, a regular service from Felixstowe (departing 09:32) via Ipswich, Stratford, Willesden, Northampton, Nuneaton and Crewe terminating at the O'connor Freightliner terminal at Ditton. I hadn't realised that Freightliner were 95% owned by an American company, Genesee & Wyoming. Wikipedia has a useful article here.
West Midland Trains quickly returned me to Wolverhampton and finally a taxi took me home, where I arrived very tired but very pleased with the day.
My pictures
Liverpool (again)
Depending on the display device, the right hand edge of pictures may not display. To see an uncropped image, click on the picture. Alternately, you can find the image by following the 'My pictures' links and display or download the image in various resolutions.
[Minor edits 24 Aug 2021, 26-Aug-2021]
