Buffet breakfast at the St. Regis Lhasa Resort.
I had time to write some more about my trip and e-mail it before making my way to reception where my guide was already waiting. Outside the driver was ready with the car so we set off into the traffic. The population of Lhasa is only 140,000, I believe. The population of the whole of the Tibetan Autonomous Region is around three million but a proportion of these are immigrant Chinese.
The driver stopped near the Potala Palace and the guide and I walked to the entrance, which was thronged with visitors, mainly Chinese. The view of the massive bulk of the Potala Palace is an iconic image I've known all my life – it was remarkable to actually see it for myself. It's now a World Heritage Site and attracts large numbers of visitors. From ground level, we made our way up the broad, stone steps which zig-zag up the front of the building to the entrance to the White Potala.
The Potala Palace, Lhasa.
The Potala Palace, started by one of the early kings of Tibet, came to represent the two powers of religion and politics. The White Potala is the name given to the lower floors which deal with civic administration – political power. The upper floors – the Red Potala - are devoted to religious matters. I'd previously seen this dual structure on my visit to Bhutan for there the Dzongs incorporate both religioua power and civil administration. The entrance to the White Potala is wooden, heavily carved and with painted decoration. Inside, the lobby contained huge wall paintings. We started to ascend the complex internal structure by stairs and along passages. At various points, there were openings in the outer wall to let in light, revealing the substantial construction and great thickness of the walls which have resisted earthquake damage for centuries. We reached an open square which was the last point at which photography was allowed.
As we continued to climb within the Red Potala, the press of visitors became more intense. Admissions are strictly timed, but the authorities still cram in so many visitors that it is difficult to obtain a proper perception of what is an enormously important building. Continually being buffeted by unmannerly visitors (and, particularly, being hit by swinging backpacks) rather weakens spiritual considerations. I'm afraid commercial considerations rule under the current administration. A few monks, around ten I think, sit in various parts of the Palace. I can only imagine their thoughts on the continuous stream of humanity passing before them but in one room we received an 'assembly-line blessing' from one of the monks. In places there are window openings to let in light but, generally, the rooms are gloomy. There were large Butter Lamps everywhere. The broad metal bowls were filled with butter made from yak's milk, in which a row of perhaps ten wicks were positioned. These lamps appear to serve the dual purpose of providing illumination and devotion. At many points, visitors made donations and showed respect. I commented to the guide that many of the visitors seemed to have religious beliefs and were pleased to make donations, yet seemed rather lacking in good manners. My guide shrewdly commented that giving money comes from "the outside, not the inside". She went on to say that few native Tibetans now visit the Potala, resenting the fact that a charge is now levied. We processed through a number of temples and past impressive stupas holding relics. It is an amazing rabbit-warren of a place. With so much wood used in the construction, fire is an ever-present danger. I noted the odd fire main or canvas fire hose and there were frequent wooden cupboards with hand-held fire extinguishers. Many of the rooms had a Fire Watchman, easily recognisable by their orange overalls. My guide started looking at her watch and I asked what the problem was. She explained that not only are entrances strictly timed but you are allowed one hour to complete the tour of the upper rooms. If you are even one minute late checking out, a fine of 100 Yuan is levied, she explained.
Well, we made it on time to the checkpoint, then descended the steps at the rear of the Potala Palace to ground level. A short walk reunited us with our driver and transport.
All three of us had lunch at a Tibetan Steak House. The menu had English translations and I saw you could order Yak Steak, Yak Fritters, Yak Burgers, a Yak Sizzler (which my guide opted for) and other Yak specialities. I had a Tibetan vegetable soup and Spaghetti Carbonara (very Tibetan). The food arrived quickly and was good. My guide insisted I sample her yak meat and I agreed with her that it was similar to beef.
After lunch we drove to the Sera Monastery in the north east of the city. This is a major training centre for monks and the atmosphere was immediately different from the pressure of the Potala Palace. Now, there were many Tibetan pilgrims and most of the foreign visitors were westerners. We took a leisurely walk along the road which leads past the various buildings comprising the monastery. My guide pointed out the building where elderly monks are looked after by younger monks.
This monastery is famous for its religious debates which happen at 3.00 p.m. daily and I was keen to see a debate. We came to a crowd of people, mainly westerners, waiting next to a closed door in the wall alongside the road and joined them. A little before three, the gate opened and we all filed into an open courtyard. The centre of the courtyard was gravel and it was surrounded by a roughly circular raised pavement. There were a number of trees around the outside and a couple on the gravel. Most of us set on the edge of the pavement dangling our feet into the gravel. Others remained standing. At three o'clock promptly a couple of young monks and an older, dignified monk whom I took to be the pupil master entered via another gate. Over the next few minutes, more monks arrived from all directions, some carrying a square cushion, until the must have been 30 monks present.
The monks broke up into groups of three or more. In each group, one monk remained standing, all the others sat on cushions facing the standing monk who would declaim some religious question in a theatrical tone and the seated monks made reply. Frequently, the standing monk would perform a stylised movement ending in a loud handclap accompanied by a cry (my guide informed me) of "wake up from your ignorance". With so many groups all performing in a small space, it was a fairly noisy affair. Of course, I couldn't understand a word but it was still hugely entertaining and very good-natured. There was a lot of smiling from the participants which I found infectious. Visitors were coming and going all the time so, after half an hour or so, my guide and I left, although I would happily have stayed longer.
The religious debate at Sera Monastery.
You can see a short video of the debating here. When you've seen the video, the Back Button will return you to this post.
On the way back to my hotel, we stopped at a Tibetan carpet workshop and showroom. I was very impressed with the intricate work involved and spent some time looking at carpets for sale but in the end, I did not make a purchase.
Back at my hotel, I spent a quiet evening checking my e-mails, writing up my recollections, backing-up my photographs and even doing some "work work" for Ford Electronics
My Pictures
St. Regis Hotel, Lhasa, Tibet.
Lhasa, Tibet.
The Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet.
Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet
[Video of Sera Monastery added 23-Jul-2015]
