Once in the waiting car, we set off for Drepung Monastery, north west of the city. My admission ticket had a potted history on the reverse (in tiny print) which I think stated that Drepung Monastery is one the six largest monasteries of the Gelupa Sect, set at the foot of West Valley Mountain about 10 kilometres from Lhasa. It was built in 1416 by Jamyang Choje Tashi Phlden, a disciple of Tsong Khapa. Over ten thousand monks resided there before liberation. The six main temples are Gaden Palace, Tsochen, Ngakpa, Losaling, Gomang and Dyeyang. Many important relics are kept here. There are three monastic colleges for the study of philosophy and one for the practice of Tantric Buddhism. The monastery covers an area of over 20,000 square metres.
The Main Gate at Drepung Monastery.
The monastery is set on a steep mountain side and considerable new building work was going on. As we climbed to the main assembly hall, we passed rows of Prayer Wheels and two water-driven prayer wheels. We entered the main assembly hall which was impressive in size. The whole place suggested antiquity and spirituality. Neither the guide nor I could enter the one small temple marked 'PLEASE DON'T COME IN WOMAN THIS CHAPEL' in English (presumably the Chinese version above the English said something similar). Although there were a number of Tibetan pilgrims around, the place remained quiet and reverent. Once again, a big contrast with the Potala Palace. I found my first butter lamp powered prayer wheels. A small butter lamp is placed under a glass case and the rising warm air turns a fan attached to a lightweight prayer wheel suspended above. Soon I was suffering complete overload from the number of temples, images, thangka (religious wall hangings) and other treasures but I found it a wonderful visit.
One of the many chapels at Drepung with numerous Stupas (reliqueries) behind the painted statue.
A short car ride took us to Norbulingka. The name means 'Treasure Garden or 'Treasure Park'. My admission ticket here was imaginatively in the form of a plasticised card with an image of the buildings which appears three-dimensional as you 'rock' the card. It was originally built in the mid-18th century by the 7th Dalai Lama Kelsang Gyatso as his summer residence (the Potala Palace was the winter residence). Expanded over the years, the gardens cover 36 hectares and form the largest horticultural park in Tibet. The site became a World Heritage site in 2001. It was interesting to see the former residence of the present exiled Dalai Lama but, for me, the site lacked the impact of Drepung Monastery.
Completed as recently as 1956, the Dada Mingjur Palace was the residence of the present Dalai Lama prior to exile.
We drove back to the city centre and the guide and I were 'dropped off' by the driver. We walked through the commercial area near the Jokhang Temple to an upstairs restaurant where we sat by an open window offering splendid views of 'the passing show'.
At lunch the previous day, I'd been amused by the number of menu items incorporating Yak. It reminded me of a Monty Python comedy sketch called, I think, 'Spam' set in a restaurant where a diner was unable to find any item which wasn't 'Spam'. At lunch on Sunday, I wrote down the items on their extensive menu which included yak. I was amazed at the list:-
Yak Noodle SoupI thought that was an impressive list, but another dish caught my eye called 'Tashi Delek with Vegetables and Rice' because, in Bhutan, 'Tashi Delek' is a greeting, something like "How are you?". My guide said that 'Tashi Delek' meant the same in Tibet, but she couldn't tell me what it meant as the name of a dish. So we asked the waitress and I thought her answer made a perfect finale to my All-New 'Yak' sketch.
Yak Sizzler with Noodles and Chips
Yak Steak with Chips and Vegetables
Yak Pizza
Yak Burger
Yak Curry
Yak Chilli
Yak Biriyani
Yak BBQ
Yak Skewer
Yak Spring Roll
Yak Thukpa (?)
Yak Momo (?)
“Tashi Delek? It's Yak with extra rice”.After a leisurely, enjoyable meal, we walked round the corner to the Jokhang Temple. Started in the year 647 a.d. by King Songstan Gampo, it was subsequently extended to an area of 25,100 square metres. Because of its antiquity and its treasures, it is particularly special to Tibetans and regarded as the holiest site in Tibet – unlike the Potala Palace, Tibetans do not pay for admission. I believe foreigners are only allowed to pay and enter in the afternoon, leaving the Temple free for Tibetans in the morning. Recognising its importance, the State Council have listed it as one of the important cultural 'relics' to be especially protected. Not sure about the 'relic' tag. There were plenty of Tibetans around when I visited in the afternoon and the Temple appeared to have a vital significance to them which maintained the spirituality of the place, despite the large number of foreigners milling around. An excellent visit.
An inner courtyard at the Jokhang Temple, showing the gilded balcony where the Dalai Lama formerly appeared.
We concluded the day by walking along Barkhor Street, Lhasa's oldest commercial street and part of the Pilgrims's circum-ambulatory route around the Jokhang Temple. I saw two fairly young male pilgrims working along the route, chest protected with a stout apron and wooden-faced 'mittens' on each hand allowing them to fully prostrate themselves, flat to the floor, every couple of yards, oblivious of all the commercial activity around them. That takes some stamina and a strong belief.
The pedestrianised shopping area around Barkhor Street is a magnet for Tibetans and visitors alike.
We passed through the Muslim area of the city. There is quite a sizeable Muslim immigrant population in Lhasa and near the Mosque (rebult in 1960) many shops are operated by Muslims, including a number of butcher's shops where large sides of meat are displayed next to the pavement. I didn't enquire, but I imagine it's yak meat. A few yards further on, we came to my hotel and I said goodbye to my guide after an exhausting but very interesting day.
My Pictures
St. Regis Hotel, Lhasa, Tibet.
Lhasa, Tibet.
Dprepung Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet.
Norbulinka, Lhasa, Tibet.
Jokhang Temple, Lhasa. Tibet.
