Saturday 12th September 2009
On Saturday, I was to attempt the hike to the famous Tiger’s Nest Monastery which clings to the cliffs in an improbable fashion 800 metres above the surrounding plain. All Bhutanese are expected to make a pilgrimage here at least once in their life – it is a very special place. The ascent typically takes two to two and a half hours – the descent is about half an hour quicker. It is possible to take a horse most of the way up but I thought I’d risk it on foot. Tashi had, very sensibly, suggested we set off a 7.00 a.m. whilst it was still cool and this proved excellent advice. Karma drove us to the car park near the collection of houses at the bottom of the track, passing a number of horses on their way to wait for customers. Tashi and I began the ascent at 7.20 a.m. The start of the track was quite easy – steps had been provided using small round wood as ‘risers’. The track climbed steadily through a wooded area, passing three water prayer wheels. Emerging from the trees, the track was harder to follow and I was glad that it was still cool. After 20 minutes, I stopped for a five-minute ‘breather’. I’d intended to carry on like this, with a ‘breather’ every so often, but as I continued I found I could keep moving at a steady pace without resting.
After about an hour of climbing, we came to a flat area with a single, large prayer wheel and a group of six small prayer wheels. There were a number of Bhutanese sitting around the large prayer-wheel – these were the first people we’d seen on the mountain. Even in this remote location, there were about five dogs lying around. From this clearing, we had our first, intermittent views of the monastery since starting the climb as the mist swirled aound the mountain top. Tashi pointed out a short path to the right leading to a cafeteria offering good views of the Monastery. Tashi said that a number of foreigners are happy to stop at the cafeteria and then descend again. Needless to say, your observer is made of sterner stuff and I set off again at a reasonable pace.
The track was undoubtedly steep in places and the footing uncertain but I found I was quite happy to keep going. Beyond the prayer wheels we were joined by a number of the dogs who either showed the way, investigated the interesting scents or tagged along behind. Climbing steadily, we entered another wooded area. Here, because of the higher elevation, Spanish Moss hung from the tree branches. This delicate, rootless plant looks very attractive, if a bit ‘other-worldly’. We came to a large cleft in an exposed rock decorated with hundreds of the pottery ‘miniature stupas’ placed by pilgrims. Tashi said that this was one of the places used for meditation. Still climbing, we came to a more exposed place where the path was near a sheer drop. Strings of prayer flags festooned the area. A small spring bubbled up right in the middle of the track and then drained off down the mountain. Next, we came to a small building, presumably built on the opening of a cave where a sign in English and Bhutanese identified the location as the birthplace of H. H. Khenpo Jeshey Guenden Rinchen. We arrived at a viewpoint which was actually higher than the monastery. There was quite a gathering of dogs here, some already there, some who had travelled up with us. A small house was nearby and two old ladies appeared from within the house to give the dogs some scraps, which caused some excitement amongst the animals.
The last challenge was now clear. To reach the monastery, there are first over 400 steps to descend so as to cross a bridge over a gorge and then as many steps to climb to reach the monastery on the other side of the gorge. Part way down the steps, there was a small building where pilgrims can light butter lamps. At the lowest point, there’s a short bridge at the base of an impressive waterfall where everything gets quite wet. Beyond the bridge, there’s another meditation lodge wedged against the rocks. Finally, at the top of the steps, there’s an unfriendly looking security check manned by staff in military camoflage dress, but with 108-bead Buddhist rosaries. Apparently, we were the first visitors of the day. You have to leave all your possessions at the security check (including, of course, cameras) before being allowed to proceed.
At last, we entered the monastery and the caretaker unlocked the main temple which has a door to a famous cave now opened only one day a year. Prostration to the altar was required, after which the caretaker administered the Holy Water blessing and we gave the required small donation. We then went up stone steps to a second temple where a different, perpetually smiling caretaker explained that visiting monks had recently started a special ritual which would last 15 days. There were about a dozen monks in the small temple, chanting from a text, accompanied by trumpets, cymbals and drums. The effect was electrifying. Because this temple has a chair for the lama, prostration to this chair is required before honouring the altar.
