After the magnificent visit to the Tiger's Nest Monastery, we returned to the luxurious surroundings of the Amankora Paro Lodge (Pictures). It didn't take long for me to be ready for the next, somewhat less physical, experience.
We drove to the elegantly-proportioned Dzong in Paro. The security guard here insisted that I wear a full-sleeved jacket before he'd let me in. We looked around the secular, 'town-hall' part of the Dzong. A plan in English showed how to find the correct department. The modern-sounding list of sections (Engineering, Education, Culture, Census, Planning, Human Resources, Administration, Forestry, Agriculture, Environment...) seemed odd, accommodated in a medieval building full of ancient timbers gaily decorated with traditional painted designs.
Equally incongruous, the other half of the fortress is a monastery with temples, schoolrooms, kitchens and toilets. A sign in Bhutanese and English outside one toilet warned "ORDER - OTHER THAN DRATSHANG, NO BODY IS ALLOWED TO USE DRATSHANG'S TOILET". Oddly, it was perfectly acceptable for us to enter the schoolrooms and watch the young monks at study. The hillside site of the Dzong gives commanding views of the river below, spanned by a traditional bridge leading to the town of Paro. Pictures of Paro Dzong
With some reluctance, I left the serenity of the Dzong and we walked down the hill, crossed the pedestrian bridge and explored the town. The traditional Bhutanese buildings contrasted with roof-mounted satellite dishes and the nearby mobile radio tower. Wooded hills lay in the background and a rainbow seemed to promise good fortune. One shop had a television set, surrounded by a crowd of people with more people watching from the pavement through the open windows. The programme avidly being followed was live coverage of the National Archery Contest being held in Thimphu. We completed our tour of the town (including a visit to an antiques shop) and then drove back to the Amankora Paro Lodge. Pictures in and around Paro.
There was one more excursion I wanted to make before relaxing on my last evening in Bhutan. There's a ruined Dzong not far from the Lodge which I wanted to have a look at. Tashi thought the Caretaker probably closed the site to visitors at 5:00 p.m. but, nonetheless we went up there by car with Karma.
There was nobody at the Caretaker's cottage, so we walked up the path leading to the wooden entrance gate in the outer wall of the Dzong. The gate was open and Tashi said he'd wait by the gate while I explored inside - he was clearly concerned that the Caretaker would suddenly appear and lock the gate for the night! I clambered around ruined walls and, more than any other Dzong, its defensive importance was apparent. It felt just like some of the English Medieval Castles I've visited. When I returned to Tashi, he was talking to two young girls playing cheerfully with a ball. He explained that the Caretaker was away and the girls had been made responsible for locking the gate but they were a little late attending to their task. So I was very lucky to have gained access at all. The Caretaker, it appeared, had gone to Thimphu to watch the National Archery Contest. Pictures of the ruined Dzong.
Soon, we were back at the Lodge. It was time for me to bid farewell to this remarkable, improbable country and prepare myself for the long journey back home on the next day.
