Friday, 13 August 2010

Arctic Adventure - 6

Friday 6th August 2010

My Arctic pictures are here.

Around 6.00 a.m. we anchored off Palanderbukta and a couple of Zodiacs went ashore with the Expedition Team to check-out the landing site. It had been a bright morning with mist on the tops of the surrounding hills but, as we took breakfast, the mist came down leaving very poor visibility and so it was no surprise when the proposed landing was cancelled and the ship moved away to give us a close view of a glacier front.

The foredeck was opened to passengers. On the way to the glacier front, we'd spotted a bearded seal just resting on an ice floe so, when we'd finished taking pictures of the glacier, the Captain re-traced his route and very gently brought the bow of the ship within a few dozen yards of the seal and stopped. The image of the seal in a 'face-off' with a relatively-huge ship crammed with humans in red parkas was irresistible but the seal was quite unfazed and remained on the ice as the ship backed away, turned and continued to Alkefjellet.

While the ship was positioning, there was time for lunch in the restaurant, today sitting with with a young couple from England I'd met earlier in the cruise and the couple from Sydney who'd been on the Captain's Table the other night. Equipped with warm clothing, binoculars and camera I then went on deck.

The ship cruised past the cliffs which are home to a large colony of Brunichs Gillemots. The Captain pointed the bow at the almost-vertical cliff and gently brought the ship to within a few dozen yards of the cliff face, making full use of the bow thrusters. Using occasional power, the Captain 'drifted' the ship across the cliff face, keeping the bow pointed at the cliff - a most impressive piece of seamanship. The cliff face was split by a number of vertical fissures, some quite deep and with waterfalls cascading into the sea and a series of very narrow generally-horizontal 'shelves'.

There were thousands of breeding pairs clinging precariously to the cliff, with hundreds flying in an out continuously and some bobbing on the surface of the sea. They made quite a racket and, once we got downwind, the smell of guano was obvious. My camera hasn't got the lens for wildlife photography, but many of the passengers were sporting cameras with massive lenses I'm sure I'd have had trouble carrying, let alone using.

The ship then carried on, working its way around the coastline until we came to our Anchorage at Augustabukta. The survey Zodiacs went ashore to make sure we could make a landing. Having set things up, groups 4 and 1 were landed whilst groups 2 (mine) and 3 waited on the ship.

Eventually, it was time for my group to go ashore and we made a 'wet' landing in a few inches of water on the shingle beach. We dumped our lifejackets in a large blue plastic bin. Colleen briefed us on the need for silence and the avoidance of sudden movement. We were to walk along the shingle a few hundred yards to a position where we could take photographs of an occupied walrus 'haul-out' near the sea. When we got there, there were a few tons of Altantic Walrus lying in the sun, occasionally raising a tusked head, slight altering their position or using a flipper for a scratch. There was one juvenile in the group, easily identified by the much shorter tusks. We stood there in wonder until Expedition Staff hustled us back to the Zodiacs with an air of urgency. At the time, we thought that this was because a sea mist was quickly rolling in and our ship, although only a few hundred yards away, was becoming hard to distinguish. We donned lifejackets and clambered aboard the remaining Zodiacs in record time then stood offshore a few yards whilst the Expedition Staff distributed themselves amongst the Zodiacs. The last person off the beach was one of the armed Bear Guards who had had to run back from their observation position a little way inshore.

It was only when we were safely back on the ship that we discovered that the real reason for our hasty retreat was the spotting of a Polar Bear just a mile away - the mist was only a secondary concern.

After this little adventure, I decided to have Afternoon Tea in the Panorama Lounge. I had tea with excellent raisin scones, clotted cream and strawberry jam. Whilst I was enjoying this, I was joined by a number ofr my American friends and discovered that it was Pauline's birthday. Her husband immediately invited us all to dinner with them and we decided to invite Chris Srigley and Victoria from the Expedition Staff as well. For some reason, I was delegated to make the invitations and confirm the arrangements with Marcello, the Maitre'd.

We enjoyed a very special meal but it did finish a little abruptly. We had started to cruise along the glacial edge - the longest in the Northern Hemisphere - and the sun was shining on the wall of ice. Robin came on the Public Address and, in excited tones, said "You REALLY ought to be out on deck", so we dutifully trooped outside to watch the passing scene. It was 11.0 p.m. before I returned to my cabin.

Thursday, 5 August 2010

Arctic Adventure - 5

Thursday 5th August 2010

My Arctic pictures are here.

I woke around 5.0 a.m. with the sun already high in the sky, obscured by mist. At 6.0 a.m. the information channel on the television reported our position as 76 degrees north, 20 degrees east, heading a few degrees east of north at 14 Knots. The map display showed us on course for the island of Edgeoya but we were not scheduled to arrive until around 2.0 p.m.

The morning was made up of a talk on geology, a cocktail party for passengers who, like me, were making their first voyage with Silversea and another lecture by the Ship's Photographer on taking better photographs.

In the afternoon we were scheduled to make a Zodiac landing on Edgeoya, near Kapp Lee. Because they rotate the timings for the different groups, I was not scheduled to go ashore until 4.0 p.m.

However, the sighting of two polar bears near the landing site precluded landing - the bears are strictly protected and may not be disturbed. The ship 'parked' offshore and, with the aid of binoculars, I've now seen my first polar bear lumbering around. But it did seem incongruous to watch the polar bear moving across a green field since they're so associated with ice and snow. This year, the pack ice has not come this far south.

At lunchtime, I was still on deck watching the polar bear through binoculars. I noticed that some of my American friends had decided to take lunch at the 'Outdoor Grill' and they invited me to join them. After a pleasant light lunch, I returned to my cabin to do some more writing whilst groups 3 and 4 made a Zodiac cruise to see the bear and a group of walruses.

They brought forward our disembarkation time so that by four o'clock, the fleet of Zodiacs carrying groups 1 and 2 was quietly approaching the bear. The bear was sprawled on the black rocks near the water's edge. The lack of ice had made it a difficult year for bears and this specimen didn't look very plump or healthy. It certainly wasn't moving a lot, just occasionally lifting its head.

A little way off, a single walrus was languidly swimming near the shore. There are around 50,000 Atlantic Walruses left. I hadn't realised just how big they are. They can be thirteen feet long and weigh a ton. We then moved our position to be just offshore the beach where four male walruses we lying side-by-side. They seemed fairly relaxed - one of the group would lift his head from time to time before snuggling down again. The Zodiacs then returned to the ship in convoy and we cautiously clambered onto the pontoon at the base of the landing steps.

At 18:45, there was a 'Recap and Briefing' in the Theatre by members of the expedition team. When this finished, we all trooped down to the restaurant, presenting them with a sudden surge of diners which they handled with their usual efficiency and courtesy. I was at a table with my lunchtime companions and Katerina, one of the two Bear Guards. Shore parties are always accompanied by armed Bear Guards who keep a look-out for bears and, if the various deterrents (like a flare) fail, will ultimately shoot. After dinner, I made a brief visit to the Bridge as the vessel headed north towards Palanderbukta island. The Captain has an 'Open Bridge' policy. Whilst I was there, I was joined by an English couple who have done some serious sailing and one of my American friends.Then it was back to my suite to prepare for bed although it was still broad daylight outside.

Arctic Adventure - 4

Wednesday 4th August 2010

My Arctic pictures are here.

I went for breakfast around 7.30 a.m. as we continued north towards Bear Island. and was surprised to find most people were taking a late breakfast after the exertions of the previous day. I was eventually joined by a nice American couple and we chatted for a while before I returned to my cabin to do some computer work.

At 9.45 a.m. we were all to attend the Mandatory AECO Briefing in the Theatre. AECO (normally pronounced 'eye-ee-co' is the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators and it seeks to ensure responsible, environmentally-friendly and safe tourism in the Arctic. AECO was set up in 2003 and has 11 members operating a total of 16 vessels. The offices are inbLongtearbyen (where this cruise will end). For more information, goto www.aeco.no.

The Briefing was interrupted by news that whales had been sighted ahead of the ship and we were invited to go out on deck. I saw spouting and a mother and calf breaking the surface a number of times as the captain sailed in circles to try to keep us near the action. Although it was sunny, there was a bit of a wind so, at the earliest opportunity, I went to my cabin for a parka and my camera. By this time, they'd opened the doors to the foredeck which houses the anchor winch so I spent some time there. Over the next half hour, we had a number of brief sightings of the original or perhaps other whales. A tail displayed out of the water indicated a diving whale, after which there were no further sightings so the ship resumed course for Bear Island and the public address summoned us back to the Theatre to complete the briefing.

After the AECO Briefing, there was a description of the afternoon Zodiac trip we were to take to study the cliffs at Bear Island. We then returned to our cabins to await the summons, deck by deck, to reception for distribution of rubber boots to those that required them. The whale watching had put us a little behind schedule - most of the passengers returned to the Theatre for an illustrated talk entitled 'Scandinavia in the Viking Age' given by Collen but some passengers prepared for lunch. After the lecture, I took a late lunch at a table with an American couple I'd met the previous day and three Americans I'd not met before. All the checked luggage belonging to these three had gone missing en-route so they'd had to spend a day in Oslo shopping for a complete new wardrobe at the airline's expense.

Around 2.0 p.m, we anchored off Sorhamna on the south-eastern corner of Bear Island where we could see sheer cliffs rising up to 400 metres above sea level. As usual, Zodiacs were put in the water to check conditions and the amount of swell precluded any tentative plans to make a landing on this nature reserve.

I run out of superlatives to describe the Zodiac trips. If yesterday's was 'mesmerising' Bear Island is perhaps 'spiritual'. The Zodiac puts you close to nature in a very special way. Charging over the wave crests is plain good fun and demonstrates the awesome power of the sea. Drifting close inshore shows the grandeur and sheer scale of the cliffs, whilst allowing the family life of the thousands of nesting birds to be studied at close quarters without distressing them. We went inside a cave a little way - we went through a tunnel. I was at the front of the Zodiac and caught a good soaking as a wave rebounded at the entrance to the tunnel. The driver was most apologetkic but I regarded it as part of the experience. We looked at the wreck of a Russian freezer ship which was abandoned against the cliff face a year previously. since then hull plates had been ripped away, revealing the framing and the hull had completely broken in two.

But what I found most moving was watching thousands of birds, of various species, filling the air, many flying at low level and close to the Zodiac. Those flying in more or less the same direction as the Zodiac stayed in view for some seconds. It's the closest experience to 'flying with birds' I've had.

After around 90 minutes at sea, we returned to 'Prince Albert II'. A warm bath soon restored me, in time for Victoria's lecture in the Theatre on the History of Svalbard. By this time, Bear Island was slipping astern as the ship headed north once again for the islands of the Svalbard Archipelago.

Around 7.00 p.m., everybody was invited to a 'Welcome Cocktail Party' in the Theatre where the Ukrainian Captain Alexander Golubev introduced his officers. Then, at 7.30 p.m. it was two decks down to the 'Captain's Welcome Dinner' in the Restaurant. I had been formally invited to the Captain's Table (a proper R.S.V.P. invitation the day before) where I joined a young Italian couple on their honeymoon, an older couple from Sydney and the history lecturer Victoria. We enjoyed a splendid meal with lots of wide-ranging conversation.

At any time, we may lose the satellite computer connection so I may be rudely silenced!

Wednesday, 4 August 2010

Arctic Adventure - 3

Tuesday 3rd August 2010 (continuation)

My Arctic pictures are here.

Nordkapp is a pretty bleak location and an unlikely tourist destination - I was reminded of Land's End in England and John O'Groats in Scotland which seem to exercise a similar fascination for people. Apparently, its designation as the most northern place in Europe (at 71 degrees 10 minutes and 21 seconds North of the Equator) is also wrong - we were told a slightly more northern point exists a few kilometres away to the west but, lacking road access (and, presumably, a visitor centre) doesn't get many visitors.

The post office was deserted the first time I passed but later it was thronged with visitors buying postcards and stamps so as to advise their friends of their arrival at the unlikely spot. There were some rather nice displays of the birdlife that can be found on the cliffs and panels describing the World War II sea battle of North Cape which took place in 1943. Every half hour, a large cinema displays a film on three huge screens about the site. It looked a bit arty and was certainly extremely loud so I'm afraid I didn't persevere with it. So far, the steps led down in a large concrete-lined shaft which rather gave the impression of a nuclear bunker. Past the cinema, there was a wide tunnel with a wooden floor angled down into the cliffs. Periodically, there were dioramas showing scenes from the long history of Nordkapp. Cut into the rock is St. John's Chapel - the world's northernmost chapel. Even more unlikely, in another rock chamber, is the Thai Museum commemorating King Rama V of Thailand.

The tunnel then opens into a huge high-ceilinged theatre-like chamber, with tables and chairs arranged club-style in tiers overlooking huge windows giving a view out to sea. A number of passengers from the ship were already seated, enjoying the complimentary glass of champagne to celebrate our visit. Large loudspeakers were in evidence and behind the long bar, I spotted a cubicle of electronic equipment with impressive audio amplifiers so I imagine that, like the cinema, it can get a bit loud at times. Outside the glass windows, where you'd expect the stage in a theatre, there was a flat area exposed to the elements. This is called 'The King's View' and access is via a pair of doors, arranged like an airlock, so you can imagine the weather gets pretty violent at times. On my visit, it was quite warm and you could look over the railings at the sea below although the mist gave low visibility.

I chatted to some of my fellow-passengers before returning to ground level for the 16:30 bus. Although it was only 16:15, the bus was already full and I watched it disappear into the mist. A second bus was brought up but it was about 16:45 before it was full, causing some grumbling from passengers (including me) that we didn't expect to have to wait until the bus was full. Whilst we waited, the sun suddenly came out and the mist began to clear. One or two of us dashed across to the globe sculture to take some final pictures before the bus left.

We had one more stop on the way to rejoin the ship. At the side of the road was a large timber shed (the souvenir shop), three of the traditional Sami tents and a Sami man wearing sunglasses and the traditional clothing tending a reindeer which peacefully ate from a wooden trough whilst the tourists took photographs and asked questions. On the opposite side of the road were two modern houses which, I suspect, is where the owner and his family actually live.

We then carried on to the village of Skarsvag, still a fishing village with a fleet of fishing boats in the harbour but also now encouraging tourism with a number of motels or small hotels with names like 'Midnight Sun'. A number of our Zodiacs waited at a modern landing stage and they quickly transferred us to our ship which had anchored just outside the harbour breakwater.

By 6.30 p.m., everybody had returned by bus from Nordkapp, allowing the ship to commence the journey north to Bear Island, a further 230 nautical miles north.

Wednesday 4th August 2010

At any time Wednesday, we may lose the satellite computer connection so I may be rudely silenced!

Tuesday, 3 August 2010

Arctic Adventure - 2

My Arctic pictures are here.

We were back at the ship shortly after 9.30 a.m., ready for the remaining passengers to have a similar Zodiac Tour. Once they were back on board, the Zodiacs were lifted back onto the ship using a powerful electric crane so that the ship could sail to Hornvika, near the top of the Norwegian mainland. Perhaps you've heard of the North Cape (Nordkapp in Norwegian)? It's credited with being the most northerly point in Europe and a metal sculture representing a globe stands at the top of the 300 metre sheer cliff at this point.

They'd offered the passengers two ways of visiting the Nordkapp - disembark by Zodiac at Hornvika and make the 'strenuous' hike up a zig-zag cliff path to the summit and then along the top of the cliffs to Nordkapp or continue on the ship to Skarvag and catch a bus. Guess which I chose, along with 40-odd other passengers?

Lunch was served from noon for the hikers so that they would be ready to go ashore by Zodiac at 1.30 p.m. Before we'd finished lunch, an announcement was made that the ship was about to pass the Nordkapp so I hastened outside, just in time to recognise the globe sculpture, 300m up and a few ant-like visitors before the sculpture was hidden from view and all we could see was the imposing cliff. A little further on the Horn, a massive, pointed rock sticking out of the cliff was visible. The Horn was revered by the Sami people who populated the area centuries ago and still exist in small numbers as farmers, reindeer herdsmen and souvenir salesmen.

The ship dropped anchor in the bay at Hornvika and Zodiacs went out to prepare the landing site for the hikers. The route was just visible from the ship and it did look a little daunting. The signifiance of the spot is that a road was only built to Nordkapp in 1956. Before this, most visitors arrived by sea at a now-derelict landing stage and then made the climb we were to attempt.

The Zodiacs laned near a large rock on a beach strewn with rounded stones. Near the waterline, large blue towels had been laid on the stones to improve the going but after a few yards you were walking on rounded stones, crossing rusting ironwork (mainly railway rails) and the rotting remains of wooden steps. A new path had been trodden on the grass interspersed with rocks, heading straight up until the gradient steepened, after which it ascending through a series of zig-zags. It was fairly sunny and the cliff was sheltered from the wind, so I quickly found I was rather overdressed and started to overheat. With the occasional breather, I managed to keep going although the numerous damp patches were a bit tricky.

Eventually, the path emerged onto a flat plateau and the road, still a scar on the landscape, was visible with various vehicles passing. We joined the road and walked along it about half a kilometre until we came to a row of four ticket booths of which only one was in use. A herd of fifteen or so reindeer was wandering around the scrub to our left. We ignored the ticket booth and wandered on to a large car park filled with cars, camper vans and a lot of Harley-Davidson motor cycles. Mist was swirling around at this elevation.

The first odd-looking building we came to was marked 'Private House'. Further on was a much larger building which I correctly assumed was the visitor centre, restaurant and souvenir shop. Since visibility seemed to be getting worse, I decided to first find the globe sculpture. Hundreds of Harley Davidson fans, most in leathers, and a few of the motor cycles were swarming around the sculpture in a good-natured photography session. It was all quite surreal.

At ground level, there was a huge souvenir shop with eye-watering prices (but all prices in Norway strike me as eye-watering) and a large cafeteria, polygonal in plan, which would have offered excellent views had it not been misty. Steps then led down a number of floors to toilets, a post office, a cinema and the entrance to a wide tunnel which took you furthner inside the cliffs to a large bar cum performance space looking out to sea.

Arctic Adventure - 1

Tuesday 3nd August 2010

My Arctic pictures are here.

I slept pretty well and was up before six, discovering some other early risers in the Panorama Lounge where self-service tea and coffee with light snacks had been provided. Breakfast started at 7.0 a.m. with hot and cold buffet plus specially-prepared items to order. We were still sailing north as I started breakfast but around 7.30 a.m. we anchored off Storstappen Island on schedule.

We were to take a Zodiac Cruise around the island which is a wildlife sanctuary and passengers had been divided into four groups. I was in Group 2 which, with Group 1, was to board the Zodiacs at 8.00 a.m. There was a little delay filtering us in groups of about eight onto each of the Zodiacs. The 'suites' each have a credit card electronic room key which is also used to monitor your leaving the ship. A member of the crew 'swipes' your room key as you leave and again as you return.

My Zodiac had a driver, the ship's official photographer, an American couple, a young British Couple, the British couple I met at dinner last night and myself.

We spent a mesmerising hour and a bit sailing close to the rocky cliffs, studying the bird life. At this time of year, there can be up to a million puffins on the island. They dig shallow burrows for the single egg the female lays each season and the air is full of puffins flying out from the cliffs to catch sand eels. They can store around 20 fish in their bill, returning to the burrow to deposit the fish for the chick. There are many other species including sand pipers, guillemots, cormorants and kittiwakes. Perhaps most impressive was the sea eagles, always cruising around up high on the lookout for food. During our trip, we saw at least a dozen of these magnificent creatures. On the way back to the ship, we cautiously approached a large flock perhaps one thousand puffins, just sitting on the water. Eventually, they flew away, wave after wave of these rather improbable creatures passing overhead. It was dry for most of the trip but a heavy drizzle started on the way back. This didn't diminish my enjoyment of a remarkable experience.

Up North

Monday 2nd August 2010

I don't like Heathrow. Despite arriving at the ungodly hour of 5.30 in the morning, it was chaos. The scrum around the car drop-off point was nothing compared with the solid mass of people blocking the check-in hall around the SAS desks. Harrassed staff were trying to keep some semblance of order. I politely asked about the SAS Business check-in and was told to wait where I was. A bit later, I asked somebody else and he waved vaguely in the distance and said "Go straight to the desk". I pointed out that there was a extending tape barrier in the way so he moved this. I then had to negotiate people who thought they were waiting in a queue and initially didn't appreciate somebody cutting across. Then I was stopped by a permanent metal barrier forming part of the queuing lanes. But by then I'd spotted a completely free business class check-in so I managed to insinuate myself through the gap between two sections of barrier and hoist my hand baggage over the top of the barrier. Not elegant but very soon I was checked in on the 07:20 flight to Oslo. Up the escalator and my boarding card got me into the 'Express' security lane. The usual officious staff were on duty as I partially disrobed and unpacked my computer for the X-ray. I apparently failed passing through the metal detector so a rather grim-faced woman carried out a very thorough search. This time, I didn't have to take my shoes off, but the grim-faced woman poked and prodded each shoe for a while.

Having run this gauntlet, I was allowed into the duty-free area. I wanted a newspaper but W.H. Smith was still closed, with a short queue of people waiting outside. So, not possessing sunglasses which were strongly recommended by the tour operator, I had a look at a couple of sunglasses boutiques. I couldn't believe the prices so ended up with Boots Polaroid sunglasses on a 'buy one get one free' basis. By this time, Smiths had opened but there was a pretty long queue waiting to pay.

Next, I made my way to the SAS Business lounge which I knew was quite reasonable. There was time for a glass of orange juice and a quick blog post. As is often the case, the mouse would only reach to suit a right-handed user. Then it was time to make my way to the gate where passengers were being processed rather slowly onto the waiting 737 (-500 or -600). The aircraft has the first 5 rows as premium - the first two rows are 'Business', the remaining rows 'Premium Economy'. All five rows are 3+3 like the rest of the aircraft, but I think they allocate the business rows 2+2.

It was a rather care-worn aircraft but the cabin crew were friendly. Problems started when they tried to remove the airbridge. For some reason, it wouldn't move and the Captain announced there would be some delay because of a problem with the airbridge. After about ten minutes there were some thumps and bangs but we didn't move. The captain confirmed they'd tried to push back anyway, without success. After a few more minutes, the airbridge slowly moved away and we were able to taxi away, about 15 minutes late. I assumed we'd lost our take-off slot but, in fact, we took off heading west without delay, performing a climbing right hand turn directly overhead Windsor Castle before heading out across the ripe cornfields of East Anglia towards the North Sea. The flight to Oslo took around two hours and they served a very decent hot breakfast

The airbridge seemed to work at Oslo and I was soon through passport check with a smiling welcome from the lady immigration officer. I then followed the signs for 'Transfer to Domestic'. It's not a big airport but big enough when you have to walk with your hand baggage through a long, straight corridor running the length of the combined International and Domestic Terminal to get to the baggage reclaim. After a few minutes, my bag arrived so then it was through the 'Green' customs channel and up in a lift to Domestic Departures. My bag was already checked through to Tromso and I had my boarding pass, so all I had to do was find the 'Bag Drop'. Initially, I went to the bag drop for the wrong airline but that was soon corrected and, having disposed of the bag, I proceeded to the departure gate where they were already boarding the flight. Some passengers were being asked to provide fingerprints but I was not, presumably because of the brand-new biometric passport I was using. The aircraft was another 737, this time the -400 version, and an all-economy flight. I was right at the back with a window seat.

The flight north to Tromso took about a hour and three quarters but it seemed longer because, having got up at 2.30 a.m., I was starting to get tired. I had a couple of cups of tea on the flight (tea and coffee were complimentary, everything else was chargeable). En-route, we'd been above the clouds in bright sun but on our descent we broke through low cloud to a rainy, gloomy Tromso Airport.

Once again, my bag turned up quite quickly so I went outside to find a taxi. The short queue was soon dealt with and the next returning taxi was mine. The drive to the harbour only took about ten minutes but the usual cruise terminal was occupied by a large ship, with no sign of the smaller vessel I was to join, so the young driver radioed his base who were able to explain where Silversea's 'Prince Albert II' was berthed. A few more minutes driving took us to the right vessel. I was made to feel very welcome by the crew, boarding formalities were completed very quickly and I was shown to my well-appointed cabin (which they call a 'suite').

It was around 2.0 p.m. and buffet lunch was being served until three in the restaurant, so I thought I'd check it out. The brightly-lit room can accommodate around 125 diners but there were only a few dozen eating and chatting as many of the guests had not yet arrived. The scene was one of quiet luxury - linen tableclothes, bone china crockery, heavy silver cutlery and sparkling glasses. Plenty of attentive staff were on hand although the meal was buffet-style. I had chicken soup, a small portion of steak and ale pie with some vegetables and bread and butter pudding with cream, finishing with a couple of cups of tea.

Tromso from the deck of 'Prince Albert II'

I explored the ship a little and wandered round on deck looking at the mainly-modern town of Tromso around us. Although the weather was dull, I was warm enough in a tee-shirt. Donning a parka and cap, I left the ship for a short walk in the vicinity of the berth before returning in time to work on the computer in my cabin before the compulsory Lifeboat Drill and Zodiac Briefing at 17:00 hours in the Theatre which, like the Restaurant, caters for the full passenger complement. It was rather reminiscent of schooldays as a roll-call was taken. A few passengers had missed their flight and the ship was making arrangements for them to join the ship the next day at Nord Kapp.

At around 6.0 p.m. we slipped away from the dock and headed north through a wide channel with good views of Tromso as we passed. I didn't bother with the Sail Away cocktails but we were all back in the Theatre at 18:45 for an introduction to the staff by Robin West, the Expedition Leader, after which it was time for dinner in the restaurant where I joined an English couple and three Americans at a table where I had a good view of our progress north. From the varied choices on offer, I took the Cold Beetroot Soup, Canneloni and Sea Bass, followed by Eton Mess.

After a jolly meal, I took a turn on the deck before finishing off with tea in the Panorama Lounge. After a lot of fiddling about unpacking, working on the computer is eventually got to bed. It's too late in the year to experience the Midnight Sun [Shows what she knows about it: Ed], but at present it gets dusk and stays that way until morning (what I think the Scots call the "simmer dim").

My collection of Arctic pictures is here.
My set of pictures around Tromso is here
.

Saturday, 31 July 2010

Lionsmeet 2010

Intense activity around the Steaming Bays at the Kinver track

The 2010 'Lionsmeet' was held on Saturday, 31st July at the Kinver and West Midlands Society of Model Engineer's track at Kinver.

I understand that the track at Kinver dates back over 40 years and the Society itself, through various changes and amalgamations, traces its origins back over 100 years!

The elevated 3.5-inch and 5-inch gauge track gives a continuous run of around 2,200 feet. It's in the form of a 'folded dumb-bell' The one end of the dumb bell encircles a bowling green. The bowling green wasn't in use that day but a footbridge is provided so as to give access to the bowling green when the railway is running. If the railway isn't running, there's a moveable bridge giving ground level access to the bowling green at the expense of interrupting the railway. The other end of the dumb-bell encircles a circle of 7.25-in gauge track.

The 7.25-in gauge track makes a triangular connection to a single line branch ending in a turntable opposite the 3.5-inch and 5-inch gauge steaming bays. There is an 'inspection pit' for 7.25-inch gauge with a moveable traverser.

This was of more than academic interest, because John Dalton of Chelmsford club attended with his 7.25-in gauge Lion which was in steam and giving demonstrations for most of the day. John had brought an open wagon and GWR 'Toad' brake van to run with his locomotive. These were fibreglass-bodied and nicely-detailed. The open wagon had a seat to act as a driving trolley.

But lifting the seat revealed the 'works' of a functional vacuum brake system. The wagon body had a sealed lead-acid battery to power a proprietary vacuum pump. This, with the ancillary components, controlled the brake on the wagon and (through a flexible vacuum hose connection) any other vacuum-fitted vehicles in the train. The brake was controlled by a small control panel fitted to the end of the wagon.

In addition, Harrye Frowen was there with his magnificent 7.25-in gauge 'Lion'. He steamed his locomotive but, unfortunately, a mechanical failure prevented him from running. Members will be aware that Harrye's model has been based on John Hawley's series of drawings of the prototype so it is dimensionally more accurate than most 'Lion' models. But there are places where, to get enough strength into parts under load, some liberties have to be taken and this process has not quite been completed. We were all disappointed not to have the opportunity of seeing Harrye's 'Lion' running.

John Brandrick, the Chairman had sent apologies but Alan Bibby was on hand, with Peter Dawson, Chairman of the host club, to ensure that matters ran smoothly. Since the last 'Lionsmeet', OLCO stalwart Bill Stubbs has passed away and Alan made a tribute to this "Gentleman of the Tracks". This year, there were four competitors on three 'Lion' models. By convention, the previous year's winner (Jon Swindlehurst) runs first. Young Sophie from the host club then drew names to determine the order of the remaining contestants (David Neish, Andrew Neish, John Mills).

Kinver Dynamometer Car with the seat removed to reveal the 'works'

This year, it had been decided to use the host club's Dynamometer Car. The design features an electronic counter accumulating pulses from a sensor detecting slots in a photo-etched disk. The disk is rotated by the road wheels but, when there is no drawbar pull, the sensor is held clear of the slots and no pulses are seen. At minimum drawbar pull, the sensor arm is pivoted so as to 'see' the longest slots, counting just four pulses per disc revolution. As drawbar pull increases, the sensor detects additional (shorter) slots and the number of pulses per disc revolution increases. The total number of pulses is thus proportional to distance run and drawbar pull applied - that is, work done. However, there was some doubt about converting the 'number of pulses' into a credible 'foot pounds' figure. Alan Bibby determined that, for this contest, the prize would be awarded on the unconverted 'number of pulses' figure. Once again, Jan was 'volunteered' as Observer, riding the Dynamometer Car which was attached to a small driving trolley for the competitor, with the competing 'Lion' at the front. Each competitor was allowed an untimed lap to determine what load he wished to carry behind the dynamometer car, followed by ten minutes to try to produce the maximum work done. Competitors were subject to the 8 m.p.h. Line Speed imposed by the host club so a good run could expect to complete about three laps during the ten minutes of competition running.

Jon Swindlehurst ran first. He elected to attach one bogie coach with three passengers. He made a good start and ran hard until his third lap when he suffered a problem which slowed him somewhat.

David Neish ran second, attaching two coaches with two passengers. Unfortunately, a rain shower made starting on the wet rail very difficult. The time lost getting away meant that, even with consistent running to follow, he could not equal Jon's performance.

Andrew Neish ran next, with two coaches and three passengers. Conditions at the railhead were much improved and Andrew was able to run hard.

Finally, John Mills ran, with the same load as Jon Swindlehurst. He had a very successful run, producing almost exactly the same 'pulse count' figure as Jon.

The performances are summarised below:-

Name Pulse count Position
Jon Swindlehurst 21267 2
David Neish 13436 4
Andrew Neish 23871 1
John Mills 21167 3

Everybody had put up a good performance but it was Andrew Neish who received the cup from Peter Dawson, Chairman of the host club.

Jan's pictures of the event are here.

Additional material added 18-Sep-2010

Thursday, 22 July 2010

'Inner Wheel' visit to Brewood Hall

The ladies of Inner Wheel made an evening visit to Brewood Hall on Wednesday, 21st July 2010. The 44 guests almost managed to fit into the Dining Room whilst Jan Ford talked about the history of the Hall. The ladies then embarked on the serious business of eating.

The meal was a Faith Supper, where each guest contributes a dish of food to be shared among the group, like a 'Potluck'.

Jan Ford then took around half the guests on a conducted tour of the principal rooms, whilst the second half chatted and wandered around the garden. The remaining guests were then taken on the tour whilst the first group had an opportunity to chat or walk in the garden.

With everyone re-united in the dining room, the customary raffle was held. Everybody seemed to enjoy their evening and this must be the first visit by an all-female group to the Hall in over 40 years.

There are more photographs taken during the evening here.

Inner Wheel was formed in 1923 to complement Rotary, which at the time did not admit women. Although women may now be admitted to Rotary, Inner Wheel membership is only open to eligible females. For more information, see the Association of Inner Wheel Clubs in Great Britain & Ireland website.

On the Footplate (Part 1)

The Mutual Improvement Classes of the old steam railways continue for today's preservation volunteers. This is one of a series of articles about working on preserved railways. To find them all, select label 'MIC'.

Jan Ford with 8624 at Peak Rail.

Introduction

I consider myself very fortunate that I've been able to work on the footplate at a number of preserved railways. Of course, speeds are rather limited and journeys tend to be quite short so it's nothing like the old days of main line steam. But it's quite similar to the operation of some of the short branch lines which proliferated until Doctor Beeching decided that there was no future in feeder lines.

Some enthusiasts prefer modern steam on the main line, with longer distances run and speeds up to 75 m.p.h., presumably as being more like "real steam railways". I've done a little main line support in the past, but I find the situation rather artificial, with so many modern requirements that, for me at least, it doesn't evoke the steam railway as I remember it from the 1950s and 1960s.

We can't turn the clock back, those times have gone forever, but preserved railways with all their restrictions allow us to pay homage to that very special group of men (and, in certain grades, women) who once ran our railways.

Most preserved railways these days offer some sort of driving experience course where people can pay to come along for a few hours and learn a little about working on the footplate. It's quite a popular present to somebody with a 'significant birthday'. I strongly approve of these initiatives and I've personally had thousands of students on numerous locomotives at various railways.

On most (but not all) driving experience courses, the locomotive is already prepared and steam raised before the trainees arrive and few trainees remain to see the dirty and hot tasks involved in disposal at the end of the shift. To really understand footplate work, you need to spend a fair bit of your spare time as a volunteer working through the footplate grades. The old grades of Cleaner, Passed Cleaner, Fireman, Passed Fireman, Driver are still in use on most preserved lines. Although shifts for footplate crews in preservation today are generally not as demanding as in the old days, they can still extend to 11 or 12 hours so a certain stamina is required. Some preserved railways allow volunteers to work half-day shifts.

The idea of this talk is to give you some insight as to what footplate crew on preserved railways get up to and contrast that with the "old days".

Raising Steam

View of the fire during preparation of 8624. Left and right, sliding firedoors. Looking through the round firehole, the baffle plate is clearly seen at the top.

Most commonly, the locomotive fire will be lit fresh each morning so, even on a small locomotive, the fireman will need to be there three or four hours before the locomotive is needed in traffic, to allow steam to be raised. Larger locomotives need around eight hours to "brew-up" - these are quite big 'kettles'. Steam can be raised more quickly but this will cause rapid expansion of the boiler and may encourage leaks, giving rise to increased boiler maintenance Sometimes a 'warming fire' may be left in from the night before, intended to get the boiler hot without actually producing steam. It is possible to leave an engine in steam overnight but it really needs somebody in attendance to make sure there's sufficient water in the boiler. A friend of mine left an 'A4' unattended overnight in a shed on a preserved railway. There was rather too much fire - the boiler pressure increased until the safety valves lifted and the steam discharge blew a hole in the roof!

Back in B.R. days, locomotives would usually be left in steam continuously until the next 'washout', when sediment and scale produced by boiling water would be flushed from the boiler. Other maintenance work could be done at the same time as the washout. The period between washouts would depend upon the quality of the water being used and the work done by the engine - 14 to 21 days was typical. There would be a 'Steam Raiser' in attendance to go round maintaining the fires and boiler water level, ready for when the fireman 'booked on'. The fireman would then bring the boiler up to working pressure ready for leaving shed.

Oiling Round

The driver of a preserved locomotive will need to 'book on' an hour or so before the locomotive is required in traffic. The driver is responsible for oiling round and examining his engine. Lubrication on locomotives is by various 'total loss' systems - oil is used once and then allowed to drip onto the ground (or adhere to the frames, wheels and motion so as to attract any airborne dirt and coat every surface with a black slurry - this is why Cleaners are required).

In producing his semi-streamlined 'Merchant Navy' class, Bullied tried to copy automobile technology by enclosing part of the chain-driven valve motion in an oil bath but the experiment was not a total success. When Riddles set about rebuilding the class, peculiarities like the chain-driven valve gear were removed and oiling reverted to 'total loss' systems.

It can take some time to apply oil to all the right places, particularly on a larger engine with one or two inside cylinders. Getting at inside motion usually involves climbing between the engine frames. The Great Western only used two sets of motion for four cylinders on the 'Stars', 'Castles' and 'Kings'. Rocking shafts were used to supply valve movements to the other two cylinders. Unfortunately, it was the two inside cylinders which were provided with Walschaert's valve gear, making oiling especially difficult. When Stanier moved to Derby, he copied the rocking shaft idea on the first of the 'Princess' class, but sensibly put the two sets of Walschaerts gear on the outside so that the rocking shafts provided the valve events for the inside cylinders. On later designs, each cylinder was given its own set of valve gear.

There were a number of good reasons why enginemen liked Stanier's two-cylinder designs such as the 'Five' and the 'Eight Freight' but ease of access for oiling was one of them.

The driver should not be hurried during preparation as examination whilst oiling is important - a driver needs to develop a sixth sense to spot something that's not quite right. Early detection can avoid subsequent failure 'on the road'.

In B.R. days, some drivers would allow fireman to help with oiling round as being good practice for their subsequent promotion. Some drivers were unable, by reason of size or impaired mobility, to complete the oiling round without help from the fireman. Some drivers were simply unwilling to perform the task themselves.

Route Knowledge

All drivers must be familiar with the route they're required to drive. This is much less of a task in preservation as railways tend to be fairly short and not too complex but, nevertheless, drivers must have an intimate knowledge of speed restrictions, gradients, signals and all aspects of the line.

This was a much bigger task in the old days of steam, where a driver might travel hundreds of miles over a multiplicity of routes with frequent signal boxes, a bewildering array of semaphore signals and ever-changing permanent and temporary speed restrictions.

All drivers had to periodically sign a 'Route Knowledge Card' which acknowledged which routes a driver was competent to drive without a 'Conductor'. A 'Conductor' is a second driver provided for at least part of a journey because the booked driver did not sign for that route. A driver with wide route knowledge was clearly more valuable because he was less likely to require the uneconomic use of a Conductor Driver (often called a 'Pilotman' although strictly that term should be reserved for a Single Line Pilotman).

Again, a main line driver was more use clocking up miles than oiling round so some 'turns' enjoyed the luxury of the locomotive being prepared for them. A pair of more junior men on a 'P and D' turn (Preparation and Disposal) would be responsible for getting a number of locomotives ready for traffic and receiving a number of incoming engines which would need coaling, watering, fires cleaned and ash disposed.

These were mainly post-war developments when the 'Common User' engine policy was adopted. 'Common User' meant that the first available engine would be allocated to a turn, so a crew working the same train for a week could have a different engine every day. Before the war, it was more common for an engine to be allocated to a single driver who would take personal pride in keeping "his" engine in good condition. But, of course, this caused problems in fully utilising the driver when "his" engine was not available.

In preservation, the footplate crew are normally responsible for their own Preparation and Disposal, although some railways utilise 'Passed Cleaners' (a cleaner who is allowed to fire when required) as 'Steam Raisers'. In addition to actually cleaning locomotives, Cleaners may be involved in preparation and disposal duties as part of their training.

Leaving the Shed

All being well, the driver and fireman will be ready to come "off shed" at the booked time. The mainstay of most preserved railways is a passenger service so, most likely, the engine entering traffic will move to the coaching stock ready for the first departure. Depending on the railway, there may be hand operated points or a ground frame to be operated to leave the shed area.

Richard at Darley Dale South Yard Ground Frame. Before locomotive preparation moved to Rowsley, this Ground Frame gave access to the running line for an engine coming 'Off Shed'

This is usually the fireman's job. Climbing down to ground level and then back onto the footplate at the beginning of the day is not too bad - by the end of the shift both driver and fireman will probably be heartily sick of it, particularly if the weather is poor.

When the locomotives reaches its train, it will normally stand clear until called on by the Guard. The Guard "owns" the train and is responsible for deciding when the engine can couple up.

In Part 2, we'll talk about attaching to the train to be worked.

[Link to Part 2 added 8-Oct-2016]

Tuesday, 20 July 2010

Peak Rail 'Anything Goes' Weekend

In July 2010, Peak Rail held an 'Anything Goes' weekend. This featured two-train running with the passenger and demonstration freight trains passing at Darley Dale using steam and diesel traction. On Saturday 10th July, I was the driver of 68013 all day, with Dave firing in the morning and Dougie in the afternoon.

68013 on the freight waits in Darley Dale Up platform as the Down Passenger surrenders the Train Staff for the Darley Dale - Matlock section.

We prepared 68013 on the outside pit at Rowsley and came 'off shed' around ten o'clock to attach to the south end of the 6-coach train standing in the platform. We'd shunted via the 'Third Line' or 'Slip Road' because the loop was occupied by the demonstration freight train, headed by a Class 14, with the '37' and 'D8' behind. A second Class 14 followed us off shed and coupled onto the front of the '14' already on the freight. The two '14s' would haul the first Up Freight of the day, due to leave Rowsley about half an hour after we'd departed with the 10.45 a.m. Up Passenger.

We were fairly busy on our first trip. On the return leg, I made sure that we were back at Darley Dale on time so as not to delay passing the Up freight on the two-track section. The freight was a little late, so we stood for a few minutes at the down home waiting to be 'loosed in' to the platform. When we arrived back at Rowsley, we surrendered the Church Lane - Rowsley single line staff to the Class 37 which was hauling the second passenger train. After watering, we made our way to the new turntable to be turned before our second passenger trip. The vacuum hose on the locomotive was connected up to the long hose on the turntable. Last time I'd used the turntable, it worked well (see report) but this time we had to resort to the handcrank. The mechanism is nicely arranged and properly oiled so, to my surprise, one person can easily turn 68013 manually. By this time, the '14s' had returned with the freight and D8 had moved onto the freight. We stood on the loop until the Class 37 returned with the passenger train.

It was then our turn to make another passenger run to Matlock Riverside (this time with the engine facing south). At Darley Dale, we stood whilst D8 cleared the single line with the freight. Once again, I made sure we arrived back at Darley Dale on time, so as to pass the Up freight. In the distance, we could see the freight, headed by the two Class 14s, but he wasn't moving. Figures in High Visibility Vests could be seen milling round the locomotives. Eventually, we were called into the platform with a yellow handsignal, as the freight still hadn't moved. At last, the freight re-started and crawled into the Up platform, allowing us to proceed. Apparently, there had been some problem with the locomotive brakes. At Rowsley, we came off the train and stood in the loop, until our last trip of the day.

Brake Van rides

D.2000, nicely turned out, giving Brakevan Rides using a long-wheelbase LMS brake.

Brakevan rides were a popular attraction, with D.2000 looking very smart in green livery coupled to a Bauxite Brown brake van. These trips ran from the Loading Dock down into the Engineer's Sidings.

Steam Crane Demonstrations

In the afternoon, Rob gave demonstrations of the steam crane. Once, all major Motive Power Depots had a steam crane, for use following accidents or during civil engineering or track relaying. Now, you can only see them in preservation.

The Peak Rail crane has a 36 ton lifting capacity. A vertical boiler provides steam for a tiny two-cylinder steam engine then a series of clutches allow the various crane motions to be engaged - lift and lower the load, alter the radius of operations of the jib, rotate and travel along the track. Rob showed the delicacy with which vehicles could be lifted and set down on the track, using a ballast hopper wagon. More pictures of the Steam Crane: here.

The Steam-hauled freight

The last freight run from Rowsley to Matlock and return was to be steam-hauled. Working loose-coupled freight trains requires skill and co-operation between the driver and guard, but our guard knew what he was doing, so we had no problems. We had only a short train: from the South end, the 'SHARK' plough brake, Engineer's low-sided wagon, two 'DOGFISH' ballast hoppers, long wheelbase wooden-sided wagon, 'LONGFIT', 'LONGLOW', 5-plank open wagon and an LMS brakevan.

The problems of managing a loose-coupled freight increase with increasing train length. In the '60s, the working of 50 or 60 wagon unfitted trains (or longer) over undulating routes with only the engine brake and the guard's handbrake was commonplace and that certainly 'sorted the men from the boys'.

With our lightweight freight, we had to wait at Darley Dale for a few minutes whilst the two Class 14s brought the Down passenger clear of the single line to Matlock. Then, we completed our run to Matlock Riverside, ran round and were back at Darley Dale in good time to cross the last Up passenger of the day, this time with the Class 47 at the head. We stopped at the South ground frame at Rowsley, so that we could turn ourselves 'inside' onto the loop, leaving the platform line clear for when the Class 47 returned with the passenger train. Once our train was 'tied down', we uncoupled and took the engine onto the outside pit for disposal.

A most enjoyable day!

More pictures of the event: here.

Monday, 19 July 2010

Traffic Movements at Sedgeley Junction 1962-1963 (Part 7)

This is one of a series of posts describing traffic movements I observed whilst unofficially working Sedgeley Junction signal box.

As described in Part 1, you can find the passenger timings here and the freight timings here. The notes are intended to go with a copy of the Train Register Book which is missing so, forty seven years later, the meaning of some of the original notes is not very clear. The original notes appear in italics with minimal editing, sometimes followed by my recent comments attempting clarification. The numbers in brackets have been added to assist in locating entries.

Sedgeley Jn. Wed 20th March 1963

A weekday, rather than Saturday, visit this time, but rather brief.

(1) The 7 o’clock down is a ‘Prairie’ with 4.
(2) The 7.25 a.m. down is a ‘Prairie’ with 4 corridors.
(3) A single-unit railcar goes down to Dudley Port – set 103.
(4) ‘47’ comes up “31 equal to 37 for Stourbridge.” ‘8766’ is on the front with sheeted mineral wagons, open wagons, coal, Plate wagons, Bolsters, a Well wagon, more bolsters, coal, ‘Conflat’, low-sided wagon and an LMR fitted brake. ‘5410’ (T39) is banking and working well.
(5) Set 331, the Western, rushes up the bank in the wake of T47.
(6) The Up Dudley Port local follows and is held at our ‘peg’ whilst Dudley disposes of T47 and the Western.
(7) The Down Western at 8.17 a.m. is set 331 returning.
(8) The Parcels Engine, 46456, goes down to Dudley Port.
(9) 3H47, the Diesel Parcels Unit goes Up.
(10) Dudley has got T39 for The Port but there’s no traffic for him.

Sedgeley Jn. Sat 23rd March 1963

(1) The Down Engine at 7.15 a.m. is 44875 tender first off T39.
(2) The Up ‘Special’ is a train of slack with 48674 on the front. The train engine slips three times as he struggles into the loop, letting the train rock back onto the Banker (48726), who also loses his feet for a moment.
(3) The Dudley Port local is a twin – set 103.
(4) Having assisted the ‘Special’ up to Dudley, 48726 backs down to Great Bridge at seven minutes past.
(5) ‘47’ is reported as “40 equal to 42 for Round Oak”. He comes up behind 48256 with 3 mineral wagons, 4 container wagons, an open wagon, two more container wagons, a lot of open wagons and a Western brake. T39 is slogging away at the rear.
(6) After some delay, the Parcels goes up to Dudley behind 46429 with one GUV and one Full Brake.
(7) The light engine on the Down is 90585 off the ‘Cuckoo’, turned and Right Away Burton. Nice to see an ‘Austerity’ but we just stop the following 'Western' at our home signal.
(8) WR1 goes down with 48459, brake van, open wagon, open wagon full of spoil, brake van, open wagons of spoil, foundry rakings, scrap, one open wagon with 'Experimental Macgregor Sliding Roof and an LMR piped brake.
(9) T39 follows, tender first, with four mineral wagons of scrap and a BR brake.
(10) The Down Parcels at 10.08 a.m. comprises one full brake.
(11) Parcels Up is one GUV (again) and a full brake.
(12) T65 is '32 equal to 38' Stourbridge, hauled by 44910 with Container Flats, Vans, Scrap, ASMO (?), 20 coal and a BR Brake. "Duck 8" 49406 is banking - tender first!
(13) The Parcels Engine returns to Bescot on the Down.
(14) The engine off the 'Special' (48674) does down behind the Parcels Engine. (15) There is to be a Sunday turn the following day: 9 loads of pigs coming from Heysham, due to arrive Heysham 6.30 p.m. Saturday. So Palethorpe's must be cleared of empties on Saturday. Control say use T63. T63 up is the 'D' 49406 tender first arriving with flats, vans, open and a BR Brake. We go down with him to pick up three Cattle Vans which are attached to the front of the train before he departs for Dudley.
(16) WR2 passes on the down, 48402 with 4 mineral wagons loaded with coal, 5 nearly empty and a BR brake van.
(17) There's a '1-1-3' following WR2 - T63's engine propelling his brake van at a fantastic speed.
(18) Next, 48256 (off T47) belts down the bank, tender first.
(19) 44910, having worked T65, speeds downhill. He hasn't bothered to turn, either.
(20) WR1 goes up "32 equal to 40 Stourport" with 48459 on the front, LMS fitted brake on the back and the 'D' making real music as he struggles to assist the train.
(21) 1X46 is a Swindon 3-car set, displaying '1X46' in (my) top left window and with an 'LCGB' headboard on (my) right buffer. An interesting conclusion to my period of observation!

Friday, 9 July 2010

D8 'Penyghent'

D8, deputising for failed 68013, pauses at Darley Dale with a down train

On 27th June 2010, I was driver on 68013 at Peak Rail which, sadly, became a total failure, as described here. This left me 'spare' and so I helped out in the efforts to provide alternative motive power. Both the Class 31 and the Class 37 were ruled out so it was the Class 44 'Penyghent' which ran the (somewhat delayed) service.

Now, I know I've (perhaps unkindly) referred to people who become too enamoured with diesel traction as 'Turning to the Dark Side' but I've never denied that there's much of interest in modern traction. Compared with the relative simplicity of steam locomotives, diesel locomotives require more complex systems and learning the principles involved can make an absorbing study. It's also true for diesels, as it is for steam, that whilst it's easy to drive badly, it's a lot more difficult to drive well.

So, I was happy to spend most of the day on D8 as a 'Supernumary' sharing Secondman duties.

References

Ian Allen published a useful book by Stephen R. Batty in 1985 called "The Last Years of the 'Peaks'" (ISBN: 0 7110 1493 0). It's mainly photographs but there's some interesting text. The book is still available on the secondhand market.

On the Web, Wikipedia is a good first stop.
There's an excellent history with lots of pictures here.
One the same site, the Sulzer diesel engine has its own history here.

My small collection of pictures of D8 are here.

The Best Laid Schemes ...

On 27th June 2010, I was marked as driver on the six-coupled 'Austerity' at Peak Rail. This locomotive has received a 'makeover' recently, being transformed from WD150 'Royal Pioneer' in green livery (a historically correct identity) into '68013' in black livery with British Railways transfers. Although she looks handsome in black, this locomotive was never taken into British Railways stock so this is an 'assumed identity'.

In another development, after years of stabling locomotives in the South Yard at Darley Dale, the Locomotive Department has finally moved to the new engine shed at Rowsley.

Derek the fireman and Colin the cleaner had matters well in hand when I arrived so I was able to concentrate on oiling round and the daily examination of the locomotive. I've described these duties before in 'Driving Turn at Peak Rail', although this description was based on preparation at Darley Dale, rather than Rowsley. The standard oiling diagram for this class of locomotive is shown below but, of course, the work is carried out from memory of what's required.

Standard Oiling Diagram for 'Austerity' 0-6-0T

Oiling round gives the driver an opportunity to get 'up close and personal' studying all parts of the mechanism. There's a collection of pictures showing this class of locomotive in detail here.

Previously, when we stabled at Darley Dale, it was an easy matter to start the day with Driving Experience courses using the line between Darley Dale (South Yard) and Matlock Riverside. Now we stable at Rowsley, we still use the Darley Dale - Matlock section of line for the Driving Experience courses, but it's necessary to first 'position' the locomotive from Rowsley to Darley Dale. This is currently done under an 'Engineering Possession' as signalmen do not book on until later in the morning. The single line staff for the Church Lane to Rowsley section is issued to the driver by the person-in-charge, allowing the locomotive to make its way to Church Lane. The person-in-charge opens the level crossing gates, calls the light engine over the crossing and collects the single line staff. The locomotive is then authorised to travel to Darley Dale Station on the double-track section.

On the 27th June, Rob was the person-in-charge and we made our way bunker-first to Church Lane and were loosed through the crossing at Church Lane without incident. I decided to stop at the motor-operated points at the entrance to the double-track section, since the move had been authorised by handsignal, rather than a fixed signal with the benefit of point detection. I shut the regulator and applied the steam brake.

Not a lot happened.

There was some retardation, so the brake blocks had clearly come on, but the insistent 'chuff-chuff-chuff' from the chimney indicated that the regulator had not closed. I checked the regulator handle, opening and closing it firmly without effect. I considered whether the regulator valve had become 'gagged' in second valve, but that didn't seem a likely explanation (for a little more information on how the regulator is arranged, see 'Locomotive Regulators'). Next, I swung on the pole reverser to 'link-up', sometimes hard to do once the regulator is open and steam is flowing. 'Linking-up' (or 'Notching-up') cuts the steam off earlier in the piston's stroke, reducing the torque at the wheels and giving the brakes a better chance of taking effect. A combination of linking up and actually getting the pole into opposite gear for a while allowed me to bring the locomotive to a stand, wreathed in steam escaping from the open drain cocks.

I decided to see what happened with the reverser in 'Forward'. As soon as the brake was released, the locomotive started to move and I used the "apply brake and swing on the reverser" technique to stop. Once I was satisfied we could stop, I put the engine in back gear, released the brake and carried on to Darley Dale platform where our antics were being observed by Stationmaster Ian, our driving trainee and Rob.

We agreed to make an attempt to get the engine on 'main valve' and then close it but the response seemed to confirm that we were not controlling the actual valve with the handle. By removing the regulator handle and attempting to turn the rectangular section of the regulator rod with an adjustable spanner, we reduced the flow of steam a little, but we did not regain control of the regulator valve.

Of course, trying to diagnose a problem on a regulator is harder because the valve itself is usually inside the boiler and completely inaccessible. You just have to imagine what's going on from a knowledge of the construction. The 'Black Book' (the locomen's 'bible' published by British Railways as a training manual) shows the following diagram of a typical dome-mounted slide valve regulator.

Illustration of a typical dome-mounted vertical slide-valve regulator

With reluctance, the engine was declared a complete failure and apologies were made to our driving trainee. A number of 'phone calls ensued to advise management of the problem. I agreed that I could move the locomotive to the pit in Darley Dale yard, where we would dispose and wait for Rob to bring a diesel shunter which would move the failed engine back to Rowsley for attention. Meanwhile, management were seeking a 'scratch' diesel crew who could operate a diesel passenger service. Since Derek had been nominated for secondman duties, once we'd moved our engine to the Darley Dale pit, Derek made his way back to Rowsley to assist and I disposed.

A little later, Rob appeared with the diesel shunter, attached my 'dead' engine and propelled it to Rowsley, stabling it on the pit outside the shed to cool down. By this time, the boiler pressure was down to about 20 p.s.i. It was clear that the steam dome would have to be opened but it would be some hours before this could be achieved so I went to see if I could help with getting the diesel service instituted.

When I returned in the afternoon, Paul and Rob had removed the dome cover and the bolted-on inspection cover, to reveal the inside of the boiler and the regulator but it was still very hot in there!

The open dome giving (limited) access to the Regulator Valve

The problem had been confirmed. Moving the regulator handle in the cab turns the regulator rod, turning a crank fixed to the regulator rod. This crank moves the regulator valve via a link attached by turned steel pins to the crank and the valve. The two turned steel pins should be held in position by split pins. Although the upper split pin was in place, connecting the link to the valve, the lower split pin was missing, allowing the turned steel pin to become displaced and the link to become detached from the crank on the regulator rod.

View of regulator valve, showing 'U' shaped pilot valve in front of the broad main valve.

View of linkage

It's the first time I've had to 'fail' an engine for a defective regulator. I do know of two problems with the regulator which happened to other drivers in preservation - in one case the handle fell off and in the other case it broke off!

Saturday, 3 July 2010

Observation Car E1719E

E1719E in Platform 2 at Shackerstone

The Coronation of King George the Sixth was held in Westminster Abbey on the 12th May 1937. In the same year, the London & North Eastern Railway introduced a new high-speed service between London Kings Cross and Edinburgh and it was logical that the service should be called the 'Coronation'. Gresley's streamlined 'A4' Pacifics provided the motive power for the specially-built lightweight, fixed-formation trainsets. Two streamlined Observation Saloons were built at Doncaster to form the last vehicle of these striking trains. The saloons were called 'Beavertail' because of the original bodyshape.

After less than two years of very successful operation, the outbreak of War suspended the 'Coronation' service and the trainsets were stored. In 1948, various vehicles returned to occasional service.

The observation cars were transferred to the West Highland Lines in 1956 as a tourist attraction. The 'Beavertail' observation windows gave a rather limited view and Cowlairs Works rebuilt them with a more functional (but arguably less attractive) profile. In this form, 1719E remained in use until 1968.

This poster for the Battlefield Line is adapted from an original British Railways poster advertising the Observation Car trains

Observation Car E1719E was acquired by Railway Vehicle Preservations Limited and restored to its 1959 condition. The Observation Car is spending part of 2010 at the Battlefield Line.

More pictures here.

Monday, 28 June 2010

Traffic Movements at Sedgeley Junction 1962-1963 (Part 6)

This is one of a series of posts describing traffic movements I observed whilst unofficially working Sedgeley Junction signal box.

As described in Part 1, you can find the passenger timings here and the freight timings here. The notes are intended to go with a copy of the Train Register Book which is missing so, forty seven years later, the meaning of some of the original notes is not very clear. The original notes appear in italics with minimal editing, sometimes followed by my recent comments attempting clarification. The numbers in brackets have been added to assist in locating entries.

Sedgeley Jn. Sat 23rd February 1963

(1) The down ‘Western’ at 7.25 a.m. is set 317.
(2) The up Local gets the full treatment – red flag, red handlamp. He just manages to stop in time. The driver and guard are verbally informed
[of what?]. The Dudley end of the unit is number 56184.
(3) The down Dudley Port local is set 108 – today, a Driving Trailer with a ‘Bubble Car’ at the rear.
(4) The ‘Western’ comes up – a 3-car unit on set 312. Dudley shows that he knows the ‘3 pause 3 pause 5’!
(5) Dudley takes the returning up Dudley Port with the ‘3 pause 5 pause 5’
(‘Under the Warning’). The train seems to get lost while we are waiting to warn him, eventually appearing and hooting crossly as he passes the box.
(6) The ‘Western’ (set 312) goes down.
(7) The up Walsall at 8.32 is slowed as we wait for the road from Dudley but nonetheless, the driver acknowledges us in a friendly fashion as he passes.
(8) The Parcels comes up with the road set towards the loop but Dudley decides to take him up the main ‘Under the Warning’.
(9) On the down 48733, a ‘Class 8’ with a Fowler tender, is the engine off T39 running tender first.
(10) Behind him is another down light engine – 48539 facing Bescot.
(11) The Western Parcels comes up but Dudley is not yet in a position to ‘Take’ him. We attempt to bring the Parcels ‘Under Control’ at the up Home, then clear the signal and display both a red flag and a red lamp at the box. The Parcels sails right by but the guard notices and waves to us then the driver stops and sets back to wait at the box. Adding insult to injury, while this is going on Dudley now accepts the train ‘Under the Warning’, so we’re able to give the Parcels a green flag and watch him disappear towards Dudley.
(12) The down ‘Walsall’ is stopped while the two light engines clear the down line at Great Bridge. The DMU guard carries out ‘Rule 55’ and “signs the book”.
(13) T47 is to go up the Loop. 44910 is the train engine sounding more like a ‘Super D’ with a very odd exhaust. In contrast, 48733 (T39) banking sounds like a real engine with a crisp exhaust.
(14) The nine o’clock down is set 108 again.
(15) The up ‘Walsall’ is now vehicle 56162.
(16) We refuse the Parcels
(from Dudley Port?) until the down ‘Walsall’ has passed. Then we accept the Parcels and bring it to our home, refusing the down freight until we’ve had ‘Obstruction Removed’ (from Dudley Port?). We get the Parcels away (to Dudley?) – 46457 with one ‘BG’.
(17) The down freight initially refused above is ‘WR1’. A handful of wagons, double-braked with two BR brake vans and 48734 on the front.
(18) The Parcels goes down to Dudley Port fairly early.
(19) The ‘Walsall’ goes up.
(20) The ten o’clock down runs by late (set 326, a 3-set).
(21) The up ‘Western’ is set 108.
(22) T39 goes down to Great Bridge with three Ferry wagons, BBCs, Plate, ‘Hybar’ and an LMR brake.
(23) Set 108 passes on the down, heading for Snow Hill.
(24) 3H47 comes to a stand on the down while we run the Dudley Port – Dudley Parcels (engine, two vans and a ‘BG’).
(25) Since it’s briefly got rather foggy, we refuse the up ‘Walsall’ until the Parcels has cleared Dudley.
(26) The parcels engine returns down and is sent to Bescot, as the up ‘Western’ (another 3-set, set 312) follows the ‘Walsall’ up the bank.
(27) The train of tanks on the down is headed by 92210.
(28) The Engine and Brake on the down is 48459 tender first dragging a BR brake, reported as ‘WR2’.
(29) The 12 o’clock down is set 312 (the 3-car unit).
(30) The up ‘Western’ is still set 108.
(31) T65 goes up with 45263 on the front of a train of scrap, coal, slack, box van, tube wagons and a BR brake and 45336 (T63) banking.
(32) Soon, 45336 returns downhill ready for his next duty.
(33) The up ‘Saturdays Only’ ‘Western’ is set 326.
(34) The one o’clock down is set 108 with one driver.
(35) The light engine on the down is 48516 facing Bescot.
(36) The up ‘Western’ at 1.22 p.m. is set 308, a 3-car unit.
(37) ‘WR1’ goes up with a train of slack behind 48724. 45336 (T63) provides assistance.
(38) A train of ‘Pools’ passes on the down with 44910 in charge and an LMR brake on the end.
(39) T63 comes up with his own train this time – about 10 tube wagons, two loads of coal and an LMR brake.
(40) The 3-car DMU (set 308) forms the two o’clock down ‘Western’.
(41) Set 108 is the up ‘Western’ at 2.20 p.m.
(42) At 2.24, having disposed of his train, T63 (45336) propels his brake down the bank.
(43) ‘WR2’ comes up the bank, into the loop. ‘8F’ 48459 is on the front, emitting plenty of black smoke, but T63 on yet another banking turn is only showing exhaust steam at the chimney.
(44) On the down, the Engine and Brake is T65 (turned), blowing steam from the injector overflow, dragging his LMR brake.
(45) At three o’clock, set 108 heads downhill once again for Snow Hill.
(46) Set 308 (the 3-car unit) comes up the bank for Dudley.

Sedgeley Jn. Sat 9th March 1963

(1) T39 goes up with 42974 hauling four vans, an open wagon, one load of scrap, three ‘BBCs’ loaded with square-section bar, a tube wagon and a BR brake.
(2) The down ‘Western’ at 7.25 a.m. is set 320.
(3) At 7.37, the up ‘Walsall’ comprises vehicles 50402 (Dudley end) and 56162 (Walsall end).
(4) The down Dudley Port local is a Western twinset – set 111.
(5) The 8.00 a.m. up ‘Western’ is set 308.
(6) We manage to get the “back ‘un” off for the up Dudley Port local but there’s not one passenger aboard – he might as well be ‘Empty Stock’!
(7) Control says “There’s trouble at Pleck. Try to ring when the Tanks are offered”. However, there’s no answer from Birmingham Control as 20 ‘Regent’ tank wagons roll downhill slowly behind 92210, with a WR brake van at the rear.
(8) The down ‘Western’ (set 309) is well-patronised this morning. We stop him for about half a minute, waiting for the Tanks to clear.
(9) T39 follows the down ‘Western’. He’s got as good head of steam and is blowing off enthusiastically.
(10) The rain is sluicing down as the ‘Walsall’ goes up.
(11) The up ‘Western’ is offered behind him but, shortly after, the train is re-described as the Leamington. He rushes past towards Dudley.
(12) The ‘Walsall’ heads back to Walsall.
(13) T47 is offered on the up. 48514 is steaming well on the front end. The train has the customary mix of loads but, this morning, the Midland Tar Distillers tank wagons are split into three portions near the front of the train. T39 (42974) provides banking assistance.
(14) On the down, 48407 is the ‘Cuckoo’ engine, turned.
(15) The nine o’clock down is set 111; stopped a while.
(16) The up ‘Walsall’ is initially refused by Dudley while T47 clears.
(17) The Parcels is 46457 with an old-looking BG.
(18) T39 returns downhill to Great Bridge to bank another train.
(19) ‘WR1’ is offered on the down behind T39. ‘Class 8’ 48459 is on ‘WR1’ with four mineral wagons loaded with scrap, then a brake van, a ‘Hybar’ loaded with carboys, scrap in tube wagons, loads of coal and a second brake, ten loaded mineral wagons of coal, opens loaded with wire bales and a final brake van.
(20) A ‘Special’ comes up and into the Loop. 48734 is working well at the front with 40 loads of slack. T39, doing an extra banking turn, is helping at the rear. Great Bridge says “The banker wants water at Dudley”.
(21) The down ‘Western’ is set 302.
(22) 46457, tender first, takes his BG down to The Port, passing the up ‘Walsall’.
(23) The up ‘Western’ is still set 111.
(24) The up Dudley Port Parcels at 10.55 is two vans (detached from the down Stockport) and the BG.
(25) Dudley accepts the next freight up the Loop. It’s T65 with 44873 on a mixed train with a BR brake and T63 putting up a good performance banking.
(26) As T65 blasts uphill, T39 (now watered) drifts downhill tender-first with one plate wagon and a BR brake.
(27) Set 111 forms the down ‘Western’.
(28) Having left his train at Dudley, the Parcels engine, light for Bescot, follows the down ‘Western’.
(29) 48725 (T63) returns downhill, light engine to Great Bridge, after assisting T65 up to Dudley.
(30) Set 309 goes up to Dudley.
(31) The ‘Western’ DPU (3H47) passes on the down, carrying the odd WR headcode ‘P4’.
(32) We take on a ‘mystery’ light engine on the down. When it passes, we see it’s the engine off T47, turned.
(33) At noon, ‘WR1’ goes up the Loop. The fireman is leaning out of the cab gesticulating that he would have preferred main line. The load is 27 slack with a ‘Class 8’ (T63) banking.
(31) The down ‘Western’ is set 309.
(32) A ‘Westernised’ ‘Class 8’ takes his train up the main – a loaded tube wagon, BBC, tube wagon, BBC, tube wagon and WR brake.
(33) Dudley informs us that ‘WR1’ is now ‘stranded’ in the loop until two o’clock, because Round Oak has two trains waiting and no motive power to deal with them.
(34) Set 312 goes up at 12.38.
(35) The down ‘Western’ at one o’clock is set 111.
(36) The up ‘Walsall’ at 1.09 is now changed – vehicle 50534.
(37) The ‘Western’ DMU up at 1.16 is set 302.
(38) The banker (T63) clanks downhill after being stuck behind ‘WR1’ in the Loop. (39) At two o’clock, set 302 returns on the down for Snow Hill.
(40) The other ‘Western’, set 111, passes on the up at 2.15 p.m.
(41) Next, we have a down train of ‘EMWs’ (Empty Mineral Wagons) with a BR brake hurried along by ‘Black 5’ 44873.
(42) On the up, ‘WR2’ is another train of power station slack with an LMR brake. ‘8F’ 48424 is in charge with 48725 (T63) banking.
(43) Set 111 forms the three o’clock down ‘Western’.
(44) We get a telephone report: “WR2 is 2.02 Norton. The 2.0 p.m. special from Great Bridge is starting from Norton and left at 2.44”.
(45) Set 302 puts in another appearance on the up ‘Western’ at 3.20.
(46) The ‘Special’ comes up with a black exhaust from the train engine. It’s a dirty ‘5X’, 45555 ‘Quebec’, with a long train of slack and T63, the banker, really forging away behind the LMR brake van, getting the train up the Loop.
(47) We sneak the Parcels up to Dudley before T63 passes on the down, returning light engine to Bescot after doing two special banking turns.
(48) Another light engine on the down is the engine off the morning ‘Special’.
(49) The four o’clock down ‘Western’ is set 302.
(50) The up ‘Western’ at 4.15 p.m. is set 111.
(51) ‘Quebec’ passes on the down at 4.50, light engine. Control have the engine stopped at Great Bridge so that the crew can be asked if they’re willing to either take the Hartlebury’s forward or, alternately, bank the train which is just making up at Essington. I never found out how the crew responded, as that was the end of my period of observation.