Driving Turn at Peak Rail - Part One: Preparation

Visitors to preserved railways are often interested in what's involved in becoming a working volunteer, so here's a description of a recent turn.

As a driver, I normally 'book on' rather later than the fireman but, on this occasion, the fireman and I travelled to Peak Rail together, so that meant I left earlier than normal and arrived just after 5 a.m. when it was still dark. There's a Mess Hut where volunteers 'Sign on' on arrival and, having changed into overalls and safety boots, we made our way to the locomotive, an 0-6-0T 'Austerity', standing in the open, over an inspection pit. There are a couple of electric lights near the stabling point which help a lot, but a good torch is still a necessity. We were lucky that the morning was reasonably mild - it can be a bit miserable when it's cold and positively unpleasant when it rains.

The engine had been used the day before so, despite standing in the open overnight, the boiler was still fairly warm. This considerably reduces the time necessary to raise steam. From cold, you need to allow around 4 hours for this size locomotive, eight hours or more for bigger engines. There are all sorts of techniques for speeding steam raising, but they are generally frowned upon as they can adversely affect maintenance costs. Sometimes, engines are kept 'in steam' overnight but, apart from the cost of fuel, this normally requires staff to be on hand through the night so it's not too common.

Before a new fire can be lit, a series of checks are necessary to ensure the safety of the boiler. Two gauge glasses allow the level of water in the boiler to be deemed sufficient and the boiler is examined outside and inside both the firebox and smokebox to check for leaks. The integrity of the fusible plug in the roof of the inner firebox is also checked. This device melts and discharges steam into the firebox in the event of the boiler water level falling dangerously. 'Dropping the plug' is one of the worst sins a fireman can commit.

The firebox still had the ashy remains of the previous day's fire, so some time was spent removing this, using various shovels and implements manipulated through the firehole door from the cab A bad sign was that some of these remains had fused onto the cast iron firebars, requiring the upper half of the operator's body to be inserted through the firehole in order to wield various implements to dislodge the sheets of fused slag from the firebars so that it could then be shovelled out. The fireman and I shared this task, taking turns. The boiler was hot enough that after about a minute it was necessary to have a breather. You can imagine that you ingest a fair bit of dust and ash in the process, even if you decide to look for a facemask first. In the meantime, the inside of the smokebox could be examined and, where necessary, the 'char' removed.

On completion of these unpleasant and dirty tasks, a new fire could be set. Various techniques can be used. On this occasion, wood was placed on a thin layer of coal then more wood was ignited from rags soaked in used oil carefully added on top. Having established a decent wood fire, further coal was added until a raging fire resulted. It's essential to have a big enough fire to produce enough heat. An engine like the 'Austerity' will have around half a ton of water in the boiler - that's quite a big kettle to bring to the boil, even if the water is warm to start with!

Having helped the fireman get the fire started, I was able to carry out the tasks of examining the mechanics of the engine and 'oiling round'. The 'exam' is carried out at least daily and oiling daily or more frequently, depending upon the duty. Although the 'Austerity' has some grease points provided with nipples, the majority of lubrication on a steam locomotive uses mineral oil in a 'total loss' system - there's no collection, filtration and re-use. Most of the oiling is done with a fairly 'thin' oil with a viscosity of around SAE220. This is often called 'motion' oil or 'bearing' oil, but other names are in use. I find the term 'lubricating' oil, which some people use, particularly confusing, so I avoid that.

To make sure everywhere gets dealt with, it's desirable to be methodical, so I usually start with the six crankpins (remove screw cap, top up oil, replace cap, also adding a little oil to the oil holes on the gradient pins. Then, mounted on the foot-framing near the smokebox is an oil box either side to feed the piston glands and valve spindle glands. Lying on the foot framing, you can reach between the frames to get at four oil pots with hinged lids on each set of slidebars, then remove screw caps, oil and replace caps on two little ends (where each connecting rod is articulated to its crosshead) and two valve rods. From this position, I normally also deal with the four oil holes at the top of the lifting links and the two holes of the weighshaft trunnions.

I find the best way to get at the inside motion on this class is to lower yourself between the frames from the footframing on the left side of the engine (access on the right side is prevented by the reach rod), standing on the brake rigging or whatever foothold you can find to avoid dropping down into the pit below. How difficult this process is partly depends how the engine was left by yesterday's driver. If the right-hand crankpins have been left at 'seven o'clock' (for this class of locomotive), the job is rather easier. There's not usually steam to move at this stage so, if the engine is on a 'bad angle', you normally oil as much as you can and remember to come back later once you have steam to reposition the locomotive. It is possible to move the engine manually using a pinch bar but there's not usually much enthusiasm for this - it's easier to grumble about yesterday's crew.

Before you enter the motion, it's vital that you ensure that the engine is secured by following the mantra "Reverser in mid-gear, drain cocks open, regulator properly shut, handbrake hard on". Once you're in the motion, it's not easy to get out, so it's important that the fireman knows your whereabouts and that you both keep a good lookout for any other movements - many men have been killed or badly mauled when a locomotive being prepared in this way has been accidently struck by another engine. Setting a 'NOT TO BE MOVED' board (as shown in the photograph at the top) is a good precaution, but it doesn't actually prevent an accident.

Climbing into the motion so as to face towards the rear of the engine, it should be possible to remove the screw caps, top-up with oil and replace the caps on the left big end and the two eccentrics for the left cylinder, as shown in the picture. Reaching across, you have to do the same for the right big end and the two eccentrics for the right cylinder. If the weather is cold, it's all too easy to drop one of the screw caps, slowing down the process whilst the missing cap is located, cleaned (anything you drop gets covered in ash from the pit) and screwed back in.

If the big ends and eccentrics are worn, your oil feeder is sure to need replenishing at some stage, so it's a good idea to remember to put the oil 'bottle' (shown above - it's actually made of tinplate) within reach on the framing. Otherwise you have to try to attract the attention of your fireman or, failing that, extricate yourself from the motion, get some more oil and insert yourself back into the motion. Once the big ends and eccentrics are done, it's necessary to turn round to face the front of the engine - easier said than done in the restricted space between the frames.

From this new position, the various oil holes on both expansion links and both dieblocks can be dealt with. Once this is done, you can haul yourself up onto the footframing and climb down to ground level. I normally do my 'exam' underneath the locomotive next. Again, it's important that the fireman knows your location. There are some oiling points on the handbrake screw, steam brake piston and brake rigging I look to and sometimes I add a little oil to the damper linkage and the linkage to the cylinder drain cocks (usually referred to as 'taps').

Most important is to study everything you pass, looking for anything unexpected - something becoming detached, unusual wear, missing split pins or nuts, anything broken, loose or showing signs of cracking (particularly on the springing), anything out of alignment. Careful examination during preparation greatly reduces the chances of suffering a failure 'on the road'. Since, by this time, the engine is warming up, this process is usually accompanied by being engulfed in drifting steam and having hot water dripped down your neck.

Back at ground level, the six axleboxes have to be attended to. On an 'Austerity' the top of each axlebox is formed into an oil reservoir covered by a sheet metal plate. From each reservoir, three tail trimmings deliver oil to the crown of the axlebox and the two hornguides which allow the axlebox to move up and down under the control of the spring. There's not much space to reach through the spokes of each wheel and prise-up the metal cover plate so as to attend to the reservoir and it's necessary to remove any water which has collected in the reservoir with a syphon before 'topping up'. If the locomotive is on a 'bad angle', either the crankpin or balance weight will stop the job being done until you've 'set' the engine in a better position.

Returning to the footplate, there are a couple more oil pots with hinged lids and I usually apply a little oil to the reverser and its rack, the lower slides of the firedoors and the various moving parts of the arrangement of levers which opens the firedoors.

A much thicker oil is used for parts in contact with steam requiring lubrication - usually the two cylinders, the two valve chests and the steam brake cylinder. A compound oil with a viscosity of SAE 600 or above is used. This oil retains adequate lubrication qualities at the high temperatures expected where there's steam. Again, there are various names for this oil - 'thick' oil, 'cylinder' oil, 'steam' oil, 'black' oil and, because this oil is often dispensed by a lubricator, 'lubricating' oil (now you see why I don't call 'thin' oil 'lubricating' oil).

There's a small, brass globe oiler near the boiler backhead, positioned in the steam line to the steam brake cylinder. A little 'thick' oil will help to avoid the embarrassment of the brake piston siezing in the brake cylinder the first time you try to stop (I often tell people "Always brake as if you expect the brakes not to work, 'cos one day, you'll be right!"). However, caution must be used in filling this oiler. If the steam brake application valve is 'passing' at all (often the case), rather than the oil flowing obediently into the oiler, hot water and oil may spray out all over you.

Cynics may think that this is why the job of filling the globe oiler on the steam brake line is often given to the fireman, but the explanation is probably more prosaic. I mentioned that 'steam' oil is often dispensed by a lubricator. Where fitted, this is usually mounted on the fireman's side so that makes it more logical for the fireman to look after the 'steam' oil. The Great Western (of course) were the exception to this convention. Lubrication was (quite correctly) regarded as so vital to the running of the engine that the lubricator was always fitted in front of the driver and was the drivers responsibility.

So, why the need for a lubricator? The problem is to provide a supply of oil from a suitable reservoir to cylinders and steam chests pressurised at boiler pressure. Without digressing too far, two simple types are the Displacement Lubricator, where steam condenses to hot water in the oil reservoir and thereby displaces oil into the steam/oil line, and the Sight Feed Lubricator, as fitted on today's engine. The Sight Feed Lubricator is a more sophisticated form of the Displacement Lubricator offering better control of the oil supply. The condensing steam supply is independently controlled, the oil supply can be shut off when the locomotive is stationary and a needle valve in each outgoing oil line allows the feed rate to be accurately set by observing the formation and breakaway of oil globules through a glass window. Excellent when working, but they can be temperamental.

I should mention in passing that modern locomotives tend to use mechanical lubricators where a series of small pumps, one per oil line, are driven from some oscillating part of the motion. This type of lubricator can be used to dispense both motion oil and steam oil. We'll leave the question of 'atomising', to try to obtain a more regular oil film on the parts to be protected, for another time.

The locomotive should be about ready for traffic by now. The fireman should certainly check that both injectors are capable of delivering water to the boiler. This can be done by deliberately raising the boiler pressure until the safety valve 'lifts' and ensuring that this occurs within a few 'pounds per square inch' of the registered pressure. Putting on an injector will then 'cool' the boiler, lowering the pressure and allowing the safety valve to close.

The driver should also check that the vacuum ejector for the train brakes is capable of creating the correct partial vacuum (21 inches of mercury for this locomotive) and that there are no blockages in the brake pipes to the flexible hoses on the front and rear bufferbeams. If time is short, this last test is sometimes deferred until the locomotive is actually in traffic but this is not to be recommended.

Oh, and if you're very lucky, there may even be time for a "brew" before movements commence!

Click to see Part 2.

The Panama Canal Railway

I travelled on the Panama Canal Railway in March 2008. It's a most interesting operation and the history of the railway is unusual.

History

The geography of Panama has made the area strategically important for centuries. The Spanish originally developed a mule track through the rainforest between the Pacific and Atlantic coasts to allow them to bring treasure back to Spain. Despite the rigours of the passage through the jungle, this route became part of the best method of getting from the East Coast to the West Coast of North America - a ship South to Panama, a fifty mile land crossing and then another ship North.

So it was inevitable that, with the development of railways, a railway should be constructed across the Isthmus of Panama. The appalling conditions and the disease claimed thousands of lives during the construction phase but, in 1855, the single-line, 5 foot gauge Panama Railroad opened and became the first trans-continental railway in the Americas. The Gold Rush in California and the subsequent rapid development on the Pacific side of North America brought initial prosperity to the Panama Railroad. However, the Trans-continental railway was completed in the U.S.A. in 1869 and this siphoned away traffic until the Panama Railroad was virtually bankrupt.

In the 1880s, the French started to build their Canal in Panama, under the control of the charismatic Frenchman Ferdinand de Lesseps who had triumphed in creating the Suez Canal. The Panama Railroad was acquired by the French, but the canal construction was dogged by an initial poor choice of route and failure to learn from the experience of the original builders of the Panama Railroad the sheer scale of the problems they would face from disease and difficult engineering conditions. Eventually, the French abandoned the project and sold out to the United States of America.

The attraction of a canal to the U.S.A. was a rapid means of transferring their fleets between West and East in a time of crisis. In 1902, work re-started but the initial emphasis was on sanitation. Only when they had obtained relatively safe working conditions did they commence canal building. They also adopted the main elements of a plan originally proposed by Baron Godin de Lepinay in 1879 which had been rejected out of hand by the French canal builders. The design had the canal about 85 feet above sea level with locks lowering ships to the ocean at each end. The Chagres River would be dammed and the water level thus raised to create a large man-made lake (Lake Gatun), avoiding significant excavation. The waters of the Chagres would also power the locks. Major excavation was unavoidable to cut through the 'spine' of hills dividing the North of Panama from the South in the vicinity of Culebra. Much of the original railroad would require re-location further East to avoid the Canal and Lake Gatun - see the map below.

The railroad played a vital role in the construction of the canal but, with the successful opening of the Canal in 1914, much of its importance was lost and the railway became very run down. In 1977 the railway was transferred to the Government of Panama but continued to lose money. Eventually, in 1998, the Government gave a 50-year lease to a new Joint Venture between the Kansas City Southern Railroad and Mi-Jack Products (an inter-modal terminal operator). After the expenditure of eighty million dollars, the Panama Canal Railway opened, to passengers and freight, in November 2001. The Company has an excellent website with more historical information and a description of the modern-day operation.

A Journey on the Railway

In March 2008, I travelled on the 07:15 train from Panama City to Colon, taking a number of pictures of the railway. When the present railway was constructed after the 1998 agreement, the original line along the breakwater South of Balboa and the line into the terminus at Panama City were abandoned (refer to the map above). A new passenger station, called Corozal, was created near Balboa Port. This appears to have originally been a rail-connected transhipment building. It was used by the United States Armed Forces as a Commissary before refurbishment for its current role. The train was already waiting when I arrived, consisting of five remodelled bogie passenger coaches and a restored 1938 Southern Pacific Dome Car. The stock was top-and-tailed by two of the railway's ten 3,250 horse power F40 diesel-electric locomotives which operate the passenger service push-pull (1863 at the rear and 1861 leading).

The F40PH (I later discovered) is a General Motors Electro Motive Division B-B diesel-electric originally introduced in 1976 for use on Amtrak, using the EMD645E3 2-stroke V16 diesel engine. For use on passenger trains, Head End Power (HEP) was produced by an auxiliary generator giving 480 volts a.c. 3-phase at around 500kW, but this required the EMD645E3 to run at 900 r.p.m. even with the locomotive stationary, hence the class nickname 'screamers'. Some later variants had a separate diesel engine for HEP.

On adjacent tracks were some of the railways container wagons, awaiting loading. The Company website says that these were originally built by Gunderson and are 'articulated 5-well double-stack bulkhead rail cars'. Later in the day, I saw some of these cars loaded with two-tiers of containers, but I didn't see one of the 'fast freights' on the move. The Company can tranship containers 'in bond' across Panama.

Tourists boarded the train early but as departure time approached, regular business travellers appeared. Right on time, the bell (which is sounded within station limits) started up, the air horn gave a blast and the train slowly moved out onto the main line, over a remote-controlled switch (turnout) and past an LED running signal showing a green. Once clear of station limits, speed increased. The first few miles are uphill to the summit near Culebra then the line is reasonably easy. The train is allowed one hour to Colon, so it does not hang about. There is one passing remotely-controlled passing loop with signals and a second loop where I couldn't determine the facilities. The train is a good way of seeing the Panama Canal, Lake Gatun and the Dredging Division at Gamboa - there are a few pictures of the railway. In some areas, you can only see the jungle through which the railway passes. At one point, there is a prison adjacent to the line.

As we approached Colon after our non-stop run, speed was reduced as we entered Station Limits and the locomotive bell started to sound. On our left extended the container port adjacent to the Canal, where I spotted the yellow open-top hopper cars used for ballast. A branch diverged to the right to the second container port, Manzanillo International Terminal (locally just called 'MIT') where the railway also has its maintenance shop. The train came to a stand at the curving platform of the Atlantic Passenger Station, Colon.

The new permanent way is in excellent condition. The rails are 136 pound 'flat bottom' from Canada, continuously welded. These are laid on concrete ties (sleepers) supplied from Columbia. The ballast came from Nova Scotia. Remote control and monitoring of switches and crossings is over a digital UHF radio channel. Train despatching uses RailComm's Domain Operations Controller (DOC), a remote, hosted service marketed as 'SaaS' (Software as a Service): see Railcomm's site but the Company is also implementing 'Train Sentinel' from Quantum Engineering.

I found the whole operation impressive and professional.

The Jackass & Western Railroad

The Nevada Railway Museum at Boulder City has a diesel locomotive with an interesting history. It was built by General Electric in March 1953, makers number 31827. It's described as a 'B-B-160/160'. The customer was the United States Navy and it carries its 'Navy Plates' - 'LOCOMOTIVE DE 80 TON 56-1/2 IN GA 0-4-4-0 CLASS'. It took me a moment to realise that '56-1/2 IN GA' just meant standard gauge.

The locomotive was eventually transferred to the Atomic Weapons Testing Site in Nevada, which had its own internal railway. The lighthearted title of 'The Jackass and Western Railroad' stuck and the name appears in black on each side of the yellow-liveried locomotive.

In the Atomic Testing Museum in Las Vegas, there is a model of the railway on the test site which seems to have been used as a training aid. I also found the 'Certificate of Public Convenience and Necessity' authorising the operation of the railway on the test site. This was issued on 7th April 1975 by the Public Service Commission of Nevada and allows the Jackass and Western Railroad to operate a freight and passenger service within the confines of the Nevada Test Site. It's not thought that a passenger service was ever operated. A copy of this certificate is held at the Railway Museum at Boulder City.

On the day I visited the railway museum, the locomotive was 'stopped' due to problems with the water pump.

My pictures of the prototype, the model and the certificate.

Round the World Five - Afterword

It would be nice to tell you that, after five countries in just over three weeks and a fairly demanding schedule, I took a little time out to sort out my impressions. It didn't quite work out like that.

During the holiday planning stage, after I'd already acquired some preserved railway commitments, the travel dates were put back. Instad of the short respite I'd planned between returning from my trip and working on preserved railways, having arrived home a little before 9 p.m. on Saturday, I was faced with getting up at 4 a.m. on the Sunday, to do a morning driving turn at Peak Rail. This worked out alright, but I then had to get up at 5 a.m. on the following day to do a driving turn on the 'Planet' replica at the Museum of Science and Industry in Manchester. Tuesday was just a day in the office but a client had, at a rather late stage, finally confirmed a training course we'd provisionally agreed to run in London on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. For various reasons, I decided to commute to London each day so that meant getting up at 3.30 a.m. for three days on the trot.

I survived that but I didn't do much during the following weekend, when we were blessed with about three inches of snow which made me think that my return to England had perhaps been premature! Now, I am starting to think through my conclusions after my fairly epic journey. It amazes me that such a journey is possible at all and that the arrangements made by my agents, Wexas, in general worked so well. It makes Jules Verne's fictional trip around the world look positively pedestrian.

Union of Myanmar

Before the fact, I had doubts about my visit on two counts: Would I be safe? Was I providing support to an unacceptable regime? It was a well-organised, high quality tour so the time when I would be alone was limited but I went off on my own when I could. At all times, I felt safer than at home. I discussed the issue of providing support for the regime with people in the territory whom I respected. Whilst there is major corruption, I was told that the tourist industry is too diffuse for government control and that the majority of the tourist dollar actually gets to ordinary people and does some good. There's certainly poverty in Myanmar - I was impressed with the charitable initiatives that the 'Road to Mandalay' ship is involved in covering education and medicine. I came away feeling hopeful. Although life is tough for many people, there is a real sense of spiritual belief (Buddhism is very strong) and there is a cheerfulness I didn't expect. Kipling wrote "Burma is different from anywhere you have ever seen" and in his poem 'Road to Mandalay' he describes how the country draws you back. He was right - I intend to return to Myanmar.

First of a number of posts on Myanmar.
My collection of pictures of this trip to Myanmar.

Las Vegas, Nevada

I didn't expect to like Las Vegas and, for once, I was right. At least, I've been to see for myself. A city which bills itself as "Sin City", with the sub-title "Everything to Excess" is hardly likely to commend itself to me. The city might have been merely 'naughty' but I had a sense of a darker undercurrent. The city also delights in its rather inelegantly expressed promise - "What happens in Las Vegas, stays in Las Vegas", which seems to invite the suspension of normal standards of behaviour. On every street corner, men push 'flyers' with telephone numbers to ring for a bewildering range of sexual services. At each intersection, there are long rows of bins with free newspapers with titles such as 'Barely Legal Asians, Blondes and Personals' and 'Young Blondes to Your Room'. The disclaimer that "All models are at least 18 years old and where applicable comply with 18 U.S.C. 2257" did not console me. Listening to the conversations of regular visitors on the bus, it was clear that most people don't share my distaste. Indeed, one of my friends in England thinks that Las Vegas is his favourite place on earth. Just in case I was over-reacting, I purchased a book about the city by Sally Denton and Roger Morris called 'The Money and the Power' (ISBN 0-375-70126-5) which had received good reviews. This book is harsher than even I could imagine in indicting the city. However, I got to see the Grand Canyon and the Hoover Dam and met some very nice people at the State Railway Museum, Boulder City.

First of a number of posts on Las Vegas and Nevada.
My collection of pictures of the United States, including sets covering Las Vegas and Nevada.

Chichen Itza, Mexico

I'd enjoyed my previous visit to Mexico and I enjoyed this trip, staying at the 'Mayaland' resort next to the ruins of the Mayan city of Chichen Itza, but I was surprised at how different the Yucatan is from the area North of Mexico city I'd visited before. But, be warned, Chichen Itza gets very busy with tourists during the day.

First of a number of posts on this trip to Mexico.
My collection of pictures of Mexico, including sets for this trip.

Cuba

Another surprise. Having visited a few Communist states, I didn't expect to enjoy Cuba, but I loved it. I enjoyed wandering around Old Havana and Old Trinidad on my own and felt perfectly safe. Parts of the country are very dilapidated and many people are poor but education and medical facilities appear to work. One person I talked to suggested that adopting communism was a ruse at the time to get support from the Soviet Union. Certainly, there's not much sign of people embracing communist ideals although I believe that the informer system typical of communist states is still in place and that 'bad things' do happen. The people do seem genuinely proud of their struggle for freedom, but if I'd suffered under the Spanish for generations, only to have those colonists replaced by the 'Americanos', I think I might be proud of finally gaining independence. The freedom of religious worship appears genuine, but the hold of the church does not seem very strong. But music (if not live, then from a 'Ghetto-Blaster') and dance is everywhere, day and night. The trip I made one evening on the local train from Trinidad has left me with powerful memories of the life of people in that part of the country.

First of a number of posts on Cuba.
My collection of pictures of Cuba.

Panama

The Canal was the appeal for me - I'd always wanted to see it and it did not disappoint. I'm currently working through an excellent and detailed history of the Canal by David McCullough, 'The Path Between the Seas' (ISBN 0-671-24409-4). But the earlier, colonial history of the country is so much more complex and interesting than I had realised. Once again, the Spanish held the country for strategic reasons for generations and one third of the world's gold passed through Panama. The transcontinental railway opened as early as 1855 (a 5-foot gauge affair) and transformed the passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic. It was clear that a canal would follow but the French attempt failed and it was the Americans who triumphed in 1914, with their own strategic objectives in mind, of course. The Americans retained the Canal and the 'Canal Zone' until the riots of the 1960s, after which the Canal was transferred to Panama. Panama is now a bewildering mix of different influences, ancient and modern.

First of a number of posts on Panama.
My collection of pictures of Panama.

Many of my friends find my rather intensive trips a bit odd, but I find them stimulating and educational and I intend to continue as long as I am able. If you want some 'serious reading', selecting 'RTW5' (Round The World Five) in the "Labels" list at the top right of the Blog will display all the posts describing this trip.

Round the World Five - Day 24 (Sat, 29 Mar)

Itinerary:
Arrival: Frankfurt International Airport Time: 14:20 TERMINAL 1 Stops: 0 PNR: LGHJFY Journey: 10.30 Airline Ref: Z9LBOB Baggage: PC
Seat Info: Ms Jan Ford Seat Nr 03A Non smoking
Airline: Lufthansa Flight: LH4856 Status Confirmed
Departure: Frankfurt International Apt Time: 16:50 Seats: 1
Terminal: TERMINAL 1 Class: Business
Arrival: Manchester Time: 17:30
Terminal: TERMINAL 1 Stops: 0 Journey: 1.40
Baggage: PC

Slept reasonably well on the almost flat bed on the Lufthansa flight, arriving Frankfurt on Saturday afternoon. Just one more flight and I'm home! Explored the terminal aimlessly at Frankfurt for a while then made my way to the splendid Lufthansa lounge to await that final connection to Manchester. We arrived at Manchester on time. I was getting a bit bleary-eyed by then, but I did notice that Manchester was about the dirtiest airport I'd been through on this trip. There was only one immigation officer on duty but, since I was the first in the queue, that was no problem. I expected to find a delay in the baggage hall, but my case was one of the first to arrive within a few minutes (so, Manchester, you may have been scruffy on that occasion, but at least you were functional).

Alan had just walked into the arrivals hall to run me home and was amazed, like me, that I'd got through the terminal so quickly. I was very grateful for a quick trip home. An excellent end to a wonderful trip. Well, there was a touch of farce as well.

I mentioned briefly earlier that I'd lost my purse in Cuba (losing credit cards which I had to 'stop', a little money, the visiting cards of various people I'd met on my travels and my front door key). Before leaving Cuba, I'd remembered where I'd hidden a front door key in the garden at home, so I thought I'd be alright. By the time we arrived home, it was pouring with rain (welcome back to England, Jan), so I got a little damp before I triumphantly recovered the key, pleased that I'd correctly remembered the hiding place. Alas, what I'd not remembered was that, since burying the key, I'd had the lock replaced, so the key I'd found was useless. Bemused and bedraggled, I contemplated my possible actions when Marion arrived by car with my dog, Tai and, most importantly, her key. All dampness was forgotten in the happy reunions which followed after the door was opened and the security alarm turned off. So, I really was home!

Round the World Five - Day 23 (Fri, 28 Mar)

Itinerary: At the appropriate time, transfer from your Panama City hotel to the Tocumen International Airport. Note Departure Tax is $20.00 per person for Panama.

Airline: Mexicana de Aviacion Flight: MX382 Status Confirmed
Departure: Panama City Tocumen International: 12:55 Seats: 1 Class: Economy
Arrival: Mexico City Benito Juarez International Airport: 15:40 TERMINAL 1 Stops: 0 PNR: LGHJFY Journey: 3.45 Airline Ref: EOL4KE Baggage: 20K. Seat Info: Ms Jan Ford Seat Nr 12F Non smoking.

Airline: Lufthansa Flight: LH499 Status Confirmed
Departure: Mexico City Benito Juarez International Airport: 20:50 Seats: 1
Terminal: TERMINAL 1 Class: Business.

After a simple breakfast, I had a little walk in the city (managing to get lost temporarily in the process) before my driver picked me up at 10 a.m. We went to the airport, with a brief detour to see the extensive remains of the original stone built settlement sacked by the British then checked in at a fairly quiet airport for my flight to Mexico City by a Mexicana A318. Here, I transferred to a Lufthansa 747-400 for the almost eleven hour flight to Frankfurt at 20:50 hours.

Round the World Five - Day 22 (Thu, 27 Mar)

Itinerary: Panama Canal Partial Transit.Today after breakfast one of our drivers will meet you in the hotel lobby for an early morning transfer to Flamenco Island. There you will board a Panamanian vessel for a Canal Transit. As you approach the canal, you will be able to observe the Bridge of the Americas. Breakfast and snacks are included while you are aboard the ship. An English-speaking guide is onboard the ferry and will narrate the dramatic history of the building of the Panama Canal, which was completed by the US between 1904 and 1914. A partial crossing is scheduled, allowing you to enjoy the cruise all the way to Gamboa Dredging Division. Upon arrival, transfer to your hotel.

Once again, it's an early start. Pick up at 6.30 a.m. for transfer to Flamenco Island.

When the Canal was built, stone was used to make a causeway about 5 km long on the Eastern side of the approach to the Canal at Panama City. The intention was to prevent silting-up of the Canal approach and I believe it was successful. The causeway now links three former 'islands' to the mainland - Isla Naos, Isla Penco and Isla Flamenco. There's a major marina and shopping plaza on Flamenco and the 'trip boat' which goes into the Canal starts there.

Checking-in resulted in passengers being equipped with one of two colours of wristband. I was trying to work out the fiendish purpose behind this division but, in practice, it only seems to be used to operate a system of two 'sittings' for the buffet breakfast and lunch we were later offered. My transport had got me there for 6.50 and there were plenty of other passengers already waiting. In fact, we didn't actually sail until just before 8 a.m. We started to make our approach to the canal but then had to stooge around waiting for the Canal Pilot, which all ships must have. We watched as a huge 'PANAMAX' 'Ro-Ro' car carrier preceded us towards the canal. 'PANAMAX' is the term applied to a ship design which is a large as the canal can handle (leaving just two feet clearance between the hull and the lock chamber wall each side). 'Ro-Ro' is an abbreviation for 'Roll-on, Roll-off' and two massive ramps are provided on these ships which are lowered when berthed, allowing the cargo to be driven on and off the ship. As we closed up to the 'Ro-Ro' vessel, we could see that it was the 'New Nada', registered in Panama. Two of the powerful tugboats were preparing to 'nuzzle' the 'New Nada' into the locks. Larger vessels may need some distance to change direction or stop unaided, and their tall profile makes them tricky to handle in windy conditions.

After a while, a launch approached, came alongside, and the pilot jumped aboard. The approach to the canal is spanned by a huge arch girder bridge, the Bridge of the Americas, so we had good views of this as we passed beneath. By this time, we had received our call sign for the day '21CZ' from Miraflores Control Centre, indicating both our 'running order' and type of vessel. We were not to enter the first lock until 10:50, so we had a while to wait. The Port of Balboa comes up on the starboard side before the locks so we went fairly close to the quay and watched a couple of container cranes at work on the 'Maersk Valparaiso'. Before you get to the locks, there are a number of mooring buoys for waiting vessels to use, so we made fast and waited.

The 'New Nada' continued its careful approach into the first chamber of the Miraflores Locks, using the left of the two parallel locks. As we waited, we were overtaken by a smaller container ship, the 'Green Brazil'. She was set to enter the right-hand lock and her size allowed room for us to 'tuck-in' behind her. As we approached, the 'New Nada' was almost in position, filling her lock chamber, and the 'Green Brazil' was gently moving into the right-hand lock chamber. We were entering at sea level, the low level, so the walls of the lock chamber loomed high above us as we approached the stern of the 'Green Brazil'. In the lock to the left of us, the immense bulk of the 'New Nada' was even taller than the lock walls, although this vessel, too, was still at sea level. Our passengers responded to the excitement of the situation and the foredeck was now thronged. With one or two others, I climbed onto part of the superstructure so that I had a less obstructed view for taking photographs.

A special railway track runs parallel to the locks on both sides and the electric locomotives, the 'mules' are connected by cables to each larger ship, not for towing purposes, but purely to position the ship in the centre of the lock chamber to avoid contact with the lock walls. The 'Green Brazil' had four attendant 'mules' - left and right at the bow, left and right at the stern. The 'mules' were moving forwards, keeping pace with the ship, whilst a winch on the 'mule' maintained the cable ternsion. 'PANAMAX' vessels, like the 'New Nada', require eight mules for positioning. The Canal Pilot on the bridge controls the whole operation. He uses radio to instruct each 'mule' and, rather oddly, the 'mule' acknowledges each command by sounding a bell. The whole process is accompanied by a series of 'clang-clang' rings from the 'mules'.

Our smaller vessel required no 'mules': we simply passed ropes ashore and made fast to the right-hand wall of the lock chamber. One of the canal tugs, the 'Herrera' followed us into the lock and tied up behind us and then the massive mitre lock gates closed behind us, the valves were opened and millions of gallons of water flooded into the lock chamber, raising all three vessels in the lock over 25 feet in less than 8 minutes. Simultaneously, to our left, the 'New Nada' was being raised.

As the lock chamber filled, we rose above the lock wall, adjacent to a grassed area with a 'court' marked out and a large 'bulls-eye' target erected at one end. An important part of the locking process is passing lines between ship and shore. This is done by throwing the weighted end of a thin 'messenger line' from one to the other, with the actual cable then being attached to the messenger line and hauled across. The 'court' is for the 'Line Handlers' to practice their throwing skills and there is an annual contest between men from the three lock sites on the Canal. Two men practised as we waited for the lock chamber to completely fill. Of course, as the vessels rise and fall, the lines need continuous adjustment. The 'mules' have an electric winch for this purpose but other lines are adjusted by the vessel itself, either manually (in our case) or using winches (in the case of the tug behind us).

The lock gates ahead of the 'Green Brazil' now opened, revealing the second lock chamber, with lock walls even higher. A ramp between the lower lock and the upper lock allows the 'mules' to get to the higher level. The 'Green Brazil', with her attendant 'mules' slowly eased forward and we and the 'Herrera' followed. To our left, the 'New Nada' matched our progress into the second chamber. To our right was the modern building of the Miraflores Control Centre. The public galleries were thronged with visitors, but I don't think the spectacle from the building would have matched our experience on our ship. One of the original 1913-built 'mules' produced by General Electric in the U.S.A. is on display outside the Control Centre. The present 'third generation' 'mules' were made by Mitsubishi in Japan.

We made our way through the second Miraflores Lock, then on to the single lock at Pedro Miguel and through the narrows of the Gaillard Cut as far as Gamboa Dredging Division, where we disembarked and were returned to Flamenco by bus, where my regular driver was waiting to take me back to the hotel.

Photographs

Partial Transit, Panama Canal.

Round the World Five - Day 21 (Wed, 26 Mar)

Itinerary: Historical Portobelo - San Lorenzo & the Transcontinental Railroad Tour. In the morning at 6.30 a.m. you will be transferred to the Railway Station to ride the train to the Atlantic side. Upon your arrival to Colon you will be met by an EcoCircuitos Tour Guide to begin your tour to San Lorenzo Fort located in the Atlantic Side of the country. The Castle of San Lorenzo was constructed by the Spaniards in the 16th century, and it was besieged by British pirates over the years due to its strategic location guarding the entrance to the Chagres River. Sir Henry Morgan captured San Lorenzo and used it as the entrance point to sack Panama City in 1671. Thereafter return to Panama City.

This turned out to be a very tiring but very satisfying day. Arise at 5.15 a.m., breakfast in the room at 5.45 a.m., picked up by car at 6.15 a.m. to be dropped off at the station about 6.35 a.m., where there´s already a crowd of tourists waiting. A few minutes later, they actually open the station and allow us to board the waiting train. I eschew the preserved ´Vista Dome´ car (where all the tourists hang out) in favour of standing on one of the open observation decks (which are actually provided for smokers because the train itself is non-smoking). The train doesn´t leave until 7.15 a.m. and as departure time arrives, the train starts to fill up with local business people taking the one hour trip to Colon.

I´ll keep the technical stuff for a separate post (for this relief, much thanks, I hear you say). Suffice to say, the train ran on time and gave some fascinating views of the Canal, Gatun Lake and the forested, jungle area that the railway traverses. We arrived at Colon, sandwiched between two container ports, and I quickly found my guide for the day, Jose, together with our driver and a smartly turned out SUV. Colon, about 50 miles from Panama City, is a small city with a population of about 400,000 which includes the important Colon Duty Free Zone. However, we made our way towards the National Park area to the South West.

This means crossing the canal, where we stopped at traffic lights at Gatun Locks. Just a hundred feet away, the special electric locomotives called 'mules' were easing a massive Maersk Line container ship from the Atlantic approach passage into the first of the three lock chambers at Gatun which would together lift the vessel eighty-odd feet on its journey to the Pacific. Immediately behind this vessel, a similar ship was being simultaneously moved into the second, parallel set of locks. I was transfixed by the scene. Once the two ships were safely in the lock chambers, the massive mitre gates closed behind them and the process of filling the lock could commence. Smaller intermediate gates were closed and our roadway, across the top of these gates, was reinstated. As we crossed, we had an awesome view of the immense lock gates and the stern of these two ships.

We avoided the marina area and took the road into the National Park. The rainforest is a thick, impenetrable jungle, much heavier then the 'Bush' type of forest. In fact, we passed through the accommodation areas of a long-abandoned U.S. Army Camp where they formerly undertook jungle training. We parked on a headland overlooking the Atlantic commanding splendid views of the Chagres River to our left. There was some sign of the old Spanish fortification but, as we explored, the full extent of the major fortification of San Lorenzo became clear. Spain derived immense wealth from its American operations and its history is a complex tale involving slavery, exploitation, piracy and enough skullduggery for a host of Hollywood movies. We saw lizards and some of the local birds. We could hear the Howler Monkeys calling but did not actually see them. Only with reluctance did I leave this fascinating area.

Returning to the locks, we only had a short wait this time before the lights cleared and we headed North East towards Portobelo National Park, where our route lay close to the Atlantic shore. When we stopped for lunch at a restaurant featuring the traditional architecture of the region, it was no surprise that seafood featured heavily. After a pleasant lunch, we carried on to the small town of Portobelo itself. Despite its small size, the port held immense strategic importantance for the Spanish and three forts defended the area. After visiting the church with an unusual and revered black Christ, we studied the remains of the nearby fortification then visited the restored Customs House. The large size of this building hints at the fact that, at one stage, one third of the world's gold supply was passing through this modest seaport. The convoluted history of the area was interpreted through displays and an audio-visual presentation. None of the European protagonists acquitted themselves with much honour, as you may imagine.

We then made our way back to Panama, my mind reeling with the events of the day. We became caught up in the 21st century miseries of road works and traffic jams on the main road to Panama City. Finally, we became embroiled in the rather agressive, apparently uncontrolled business which is the city centre traffic. To the accompaniment of a lot of horn sounding, vehicles appear to head in all directions at once but it actually seems to work rather well. At the hotel, I said goodbye to my guide and driver. Jose had been a well-informed guide and excellent company. Finally, I walked to the nearby shops where I was able to purchase a couple of excellent maps of Panama plus a 'heavy' book on the building of the Canal before collapsing in my comfortable suite for the rest of the evening.

Pictures of the Canal.
San Lorenzo.
Portobelo.

Round the World Five - Day 20 (Tue, 25 Mar)

Itinerary - Depart Havana on Copa Airlines flight CM231 at 07:57. This economy flight to Panama City Tocumen International Airport takes 1h 35m, arriving 10:32. Arrive to Panama. A representative of EcoCircuitos will meet you at the international airport for your transfer to your hotel in Panama City. 3 nights - Hotel Bristol - Suite Room.

The hotel for my last night in Cuba is a great success. It´s an old building in the Spanish style. My suite has to massive French windows with views of the Plaza dos Armes. During the day, it's fairly noisy with the children playing and the music but at night, only the sighing of the wind can be heard. The staff are very good but there's the occasional language problem. I tried to order a 'wake up call' by telephone and, I finally realised, I'd been transferred by the first person to room service, who were trying to work out how to cook a 'wake up call'. We eventually got it sorted.

I slept well and woke to my alarm. The wake-up call followed shortly afterwards. The night man on the bar rustled up orange juice and toast, so that was alright. My taxi turned up early and it was still dark when we got to the airport. I started to panic because I couldn´t find any documentation for my flight to Panama and I wasn´t sure that it was supposed to be an electronic booking. I managed to find a Havanatur representative and she found me on her passenger manifest taken from Copa Airlines computer. There´ll be no problem, she said, and it proved so.

We left on time but the flight was longer than I expected because there´s a one hour time difference at present between Cuba and Panama. Panama airport was fairly deserted - I breezed through Immigration and only had a few minutes to wait before the checked bag arrived. I was met by a pleasant young man from the local agents Eco Circuitos Panama and we were soon on the Mexican-built toll road heading for the Bristol Hotel (oh, alright then, I have to say it: "I wonder if there´s a Panama Hotel in Bristol?"). It was decidedly cool this morning when we left Havana but it´s very hot and sticky in Panama.

Although the Bristol is located in a modern building, the furnishing and decorations are in very traditional style and it works quite well. Most importantly, the staff are friendly and attentive and I´m in a suite of generous proportions. Much as I feel ready to relax, I just have a quick shower and determine to explore a little.

Central Panama City is all high rise but, in parts, scruffier than I was expecting. The Bristol is located in a quieter side road not too far from the Centre. I´m carrying some Sterling and intended to change some into dollars for the Panama segment. The hotel are unable to oblige but direct me to the Scotia Bank who also can´t do it and suggest Western Union. Setting aside the currency problem for a while (I have a few US dollars to keep me going), I walk a few hundred yards to Avenue Bilboa and there, on the other side of the road, is the Pacific, with waves breaking on the rocky shore.

My intended destination is the World Heritage Site of El Casco Antiguo, the colonial town founded in 1673 after the first settlement (Panama la Vieja, the Old Town, started 1519) was destroyed by pirates. It must be at least a couple of miles but I keep walking - at walking pace you can learn so much more. Perhaps most interesting was my route into the peninsula which the old town occupies which was via a very scruffy Fish Market area with not a tourist in sight. Various dilapidated boats lay on the seaward side and run-down housing on the land side. Both sides of the road were lined with tin shack market stalls mainly selling all sorts of engineering items - automotive spares, electrical wire, stall after stall loaded with bits that already look very second hand. I passed one pavement barber and I dare say you could find any service if you knew your way around.

That area led on to what I presume the Heritage Inscription was based on - a core of churches and administrative buildings restored to reasonable condition. The work´s not completed, though, and there are plenty of roofless derelicts still to be dealt with, some with restoration in progress. Very reminiscent of Havana. There were plenty of tourists in these áreas (I beg your pardon, I mean areas - where did that accent come from?) and, consequently, a lot of souvenir vendors. There were also a lot of upmarket restaurants and bars. Cars and SUVs were parked all over the place and there was a continuous drone of air conditioning systems as the drivers keep the vehicles nice and cool whilst waiting for their passengers to return.

I visited the Panama Canal Museum which is housed in one of the restored buildings then visited a downmarket Chinese restaurant frequented by locals and backpackers for a restorative Coca-Cola, then hailed a taxi to come back. I was surprised that I chased off a local who tried to ´pinch´ my taxi - I think I must get more aggressive when I get tired. The taxi driver didn´t seem too happy that I didn´t speak Spanish, but he took me where I wanted (Western Union) and charged me the proper ´local price´. He cheered up considerably when he got a tip for his honesty. I looked at Western Union but, not wanting to wait in line, I changed my mind and successfully drew dollars instead from a nearby ATM using my one remaining credit card. It was then a short walk back to my hotel for a shower. I slept for a couple of hours, decided not to go out again, had soup and ice cream from room service and went to bed. A tiring but enjoyable day.

Photographs

Bristol Hotel, Panama City.
Panama City.

Valle de los Ingenios Railway, Cuba

Trinidad, in Cuba, is a world heritage site. There is a railway operation from Trinidad towards the East, terminating at Mayer. There´s a diesel railcar service provided for the locals which I think does a round trip morning and evening. There´s also a steam train for tourists which does a round trip starting at 9.30 in the morning.

Unfortunately, the steam locomotive had failed sometime before I arrived and the steam trip was not running. I found the locomotive in the yard at Trinidad - number 1432, a fairly modern Baldwin ´ten-wheeler´ 4-6-0 oil-burner. I also had a conversation with one of the drivers (if you can call it a conversation when I don´t speak Spanish and he didn´t speak English). So, I didn´t get to see working steam in Cuba, but I was able to look at the Valle de los Ingenious Railway operation.

The ´station´ at Trinidad is a short, low platform provided with a small awning. On the other side of the minor road which runs parallel with the single railway track is a simple building with a waiting room and an office for the booking clerk and railway operator. I presume the line to the West does (or did) connect up with the rest of the network, but I couldn´t confirm that. To the East, the line continues to Meyer where it stops. To the West of the station, there are three parallel loops where the stock is stabled - there is also a reversing ´wye´ or triangle which allows locomotives, railcars or whole trains to be turned. On one road I found a 4-wheel coach, a 4-wheel open wagon converted for use as a coach and a diesel locomotive 34C71. This was next to the steam locomotive with two coaches and a motorised platelayer´s trolley with its own wagon. On the other siding was an open-sided passenger coach, an apparently converted freight car which now has windows down the sides, a fairly big diesel locomotive made in Russia and a 4-wheel trailer passenger car. There was also a lightweight railcar without autocouplers by ´IFA´, numbered 637 apparently based on a bus design. Finally, there was a fairly new open-sided but fenced-off shed provided with a pit and a lifting crane, with a bogie diesel railcar numbered 4021 ´at home´ and giving the impression it did most of the work.

Since 4021 only had a cab at one end, it was obviously intended to run with a trailer car to provide the second cab. The trailer car I´d found looked the right size, but the 4-wheel (as opposed to bogie) construction seemed odd. Also, 4021 had had a tail lamp ostentatiously fitted on one side of the non-driving end. That evening, all would be revealed.

Sunday evening, I travelled in the cab of 4021, as described in my travel blog for Sunday.

Pictures of the railway at Trinidad.

Stop Press (again)

'Again' in that I showed you a few pictures like this in earlier travels. I won't bore you with details, but I can't upload pictures at present in the way I'd want. Here are a few to be going on with (oddly in reverse order, latest first). Updated to show Cuba. There's also a few pictures of cuba on the Travel Photograph site.

Trinidad (above)

Havana viewed from Casa Blanca.

Havana (above)

Jan standing next to the main temple at Chichen Itza. You are, sadly, no longer allowed to climb the pyramid.

This is what Las Vegas is about. A corner of one gaming room at the Wynn when it was very quiet.

This pre-war diesel electric was running the passenger service at the Museum.

One of the genuine Venetian gondolas giving rides outside the famous Venetian casino/hotel in Las Vegas.

The 'River of Kings' in Bangkok always teems with activity. This was the view from my hotel room.

The famous Golden Temple in Yangon.

Round the World Five - Day 19 (Mon, 24 Mar)

Itinerary - Private transfer from Trinidad to Havana via Santa Clara, another interesting town. On arrival in Havana your will be taken to your hotel. One night Santa Isabel Hotel then on 25th March, private transfer from hotel to airport.

I'm afraid today wasn't quite unalloyed joy. The transport was over two hours late and then I managed to lose my purse with some credit cards during a toilet stop. Eventually got to the Santa Isabel and it's rather nice (see pictures). I've managed to get internet in my room so I could upload a lot more but I don't have the energy at present. We're still planning on an early start in the morning to catch the flight to Panama. I'll update you when I can.

Round the World Five - Day 18 (Sun, 23 Mar)

I think a suitable title for this section of the trip would be ´Cuba - the power to amaze´. I´ve just had the most surprising Easter Sunday ever and I might get used to it.

I got up early, enjoyed a decent breakfast (they´re very big on eggs in Cuba, but that works for me). The last information I received was that the steam train was running. I decided to go down to the station early to see if there were signs of a steam locomotive "brewing up". I found the station, I found a fairly modern Baldwin "ten-wheeler" cold. After a few minutes, a railwayman with reasonable English arrived and introduced himself as a driver. He said the locomotive had failed and there would be no steam today. I had thought to bring some Peak Rail postcards showing me on a steam locomotive, so I was able to ´establish my credentials´. We spent some time looking at the steamer and other rolling stock and I took plenty of pictures. The driver introduced me to the Railway Operator cum Booking Clerk who had just arrived by bicycle. When I left the driver, I went to the station to try and confirm what trains, if any, were running.

In the small waiting room, I met an English couple on holiday, Helen and Mick from Exmoor. Since Mick speaks fluent Spanish, he was able to confirm that the next train was 5 p.m. - too late for them, so they´d hired a taxi to take them to the Valle de los Ingenios (Valley of the Sugar Works) which was where they wanted to visit. They kindly invited me to tag along and we spent a very pleasant morning together. As we chatted, I discovered that they formerly lived in Codsall, have friends in Brewood and that we share some friends in common! Small world, as the English say. Mick informed me that the Spanish say ´The world is a handkerchief´ - I think that´s far more poetic.

Their taxi first stopped at a natural viewpoint overlooking a large, fertile valley once devoted to sugar cane. In modern times, the profitability of sugar has fallen, so much smaller areas are under cultivation. Cuba is looking to tourism as their growth industry. Of the two million visitors a year they´re currently getting, 1.5 million are Canadian (so maybe the French I´ve been hearing is Canadian French, not French French).

We then went on to Manaca Iznago, famous for the watchtower used for supervising the slaves. I made it to the top. We had a drink in the cafe then tried out a huge machine for extracting sugar. The sugar canes are simply crushed between two serrated rolls which extracts the sugar juice, just like an old washing mangle (if you´re old enough to remember such things, dear reader) extracted the water from wet clothes.

The taxi returned us to Trinidad and we toured the military museum. Cubans are intensely proud of their various struggles to achieve independence and the roles played by Che, Fidel and their followers. This, and other, museums meticulously chronicle these activities. Various artefacts were on display, including an army lorry and a speedboat equipped with radar and machine guns. We would have visited the parish church but a sign said a service was in progress and tourists were not admitted. At another museum we climbed the belltower and were rewarded with marvellous views across the town and surrounding countryside.

Two little cameos spring to mind. We found a Chevrolet in splendid condition, signal red and polished chrome. I think Mick said it was a ´59 ´Impala´. The proud owner told Mick, with a laugh, that he took better care of his car than his wife. You often find gnarled old men sitting and taking their ease whilst enjoying a large Cuban cigar. One fellow, who was 83, had a fine looking cockerel standing on his lap, with a piece of string as a lead. He said the bird´s name was Pedro and that he was two years old. We then ´repaired to my hotel´ for a snack lunch before I temporarily said goodbye to my new friends.

In the afternoon, I set off on my own to visit more museums. Yesterday, I may have sounded a bit ´sniffy´ about all the tourists but today there seemed fewer and they were quieter. Is it because it´s Sunday, because it´s Easter Sunday, or is it just me? Two of the Museums are based in houses enjoyed by the Spanish colonists Brund and Cantero. Seeing the princely style in which they lived, you can understand why Spain was so reluctant to give up its possession of Cuba. A more modest dwelling is now the Museum of Architecture, detailing some of the materials and techniques used.

Only parts of the town have surfaced roads - stones are used elsewhere. Cars still tackle these streets but it´s very unkind to suspensions. There´s a type of motorised taxi rather like the ´Tuk-Tuk´ you find all over the East. In Cuba, these usually have a round Fibreglass, I think, body. The driver wears a safety helmet, but not his passengers. You find various designs of bicycle taxis in the streets, plus the horse-drawn people-movers with two or four rubber tyres. There may be a second horse tethered, trotting alongside. Goods are also moved around by men with simple 4-wheeled trucks who can often be found talking to friends. Some Trinidadians unselfconciously ride around on horseback. I saw a few leather saddles but many riders use a large ´cushion´ as a saddle.

There´s music everywhere, sometimes live, sometimes from a ´Ghetto Blaster´. I watched the years drop away as one old lady, all alone, swayed to the infectious rhythm in an elegant manner. Many of the people will exchange a ´Hola!´ (informal ´Hi´). Sometimes it´s just friendliness, sometimes it´s a precursor to a little bit of private enterprise - samples of local money offered in exchange for the ´Convertible Peso´ (CUC) used by the tourists or requests for soap.

There was time for a quick shower before I set off, with some trepidation, to catch the train which was supposed to leave at five o´clock. There were already a number of people waiting in the small station and more were drifting towards the station. I managed to purchase a return ticket from the man I´d met in the morning and, a little after five, a single diesel railcar pulled in, so I quickly ´bagged´ a seat at the front. Now was the moment to whip out another postcard of me on an engine and commit virtually my entire Spanish vocabulary in an appeal to the driver. Something like ´Disculpe´ (pardon me), ´Inglaterra´ (England), ´Machanista´ (engine driver) combined with pointing at me and pointing at the driving cab.

It might not be grammatical, but it worked. I was invited up front and given the right hand seat (the second best seat in the house. The best - come on, the driver´s seat, of course). Then followed an incredible 3 hour journey up to the end of the line and back. The diesel engine is underfoor mounted in between driver and secondman and quite deafening. A crude wooden box formed the engine cover. This cover had partially disintegrated and was topped by a loose piece of vinyl floor covering. Each time the vinyl started to slip off, it was carefully moved back to the proper position. It was, as you can imagine, also quite hot so near to the engine. On gradients the engine would scream its head off, as the driver advanced the throttle and the vibration was intense.

The track is in pretty poor condition and, in places, I was convinced we were about to derail. The driver just carried on, perfectly nonchalent. On the trip out, a ´Ghetto Blaster´ was played in the cab, loud enough to be heard above the engine's roar. Of course, the railway is completely unfenced, so there´s much blowing of the loco horn to warn people or animals. Frequent stops are made for people to get on and off, often loaded with produce and all sorts of packages. The service is more like a bus. Some stops are provided with a small shelter but, in most cases, the train will stop on a road crossing where the people congregate. The horses, chickens, cattle, goats and oxen will normally get out of the way just in time, but my heart was in my mouth as a goat ran alongside on my side for hundreds of yards before suddenly jumping in front of the of the train. I was sure we would hit him but there was no ´thump´ and the driver said he made it. Later on, a hen with her brood decided to cross in front of us 'chickens playing chicken'. Again, I believe they all got out OK. The line is as spectacular as the publicity claims. I only saw one short tunnel but bridges abound. They're usually trestle but the larger ones are impressive girder structures. The line twists and weaves through changing countryside, sometimes downhill, sometimes up.

We stopped near the Watchtower I´d climbed in the morning then contined, with frequent stops, to our destination, Mayer, where the tiny platform was crowded with passengers for our return trip. Some minutes of confusion followed as people got off with all their belongings whilst others got on.

The driver allows the second man to drive back to Trinidad. I´m allowed to stay in the right hand seat, so the driver supervises from a bench seat at the back of the cab. There´s only a driving cab at one end of the railcar, because there should be a second trailer coach with its own cab, so we set off, rather disconcertingly, backwards. After a few hundred yards, we reach the triangle of lines (or ´wye´) I´d spotted on the way in. Now, the ´third man´ (guard, shunter, perhaps) jumps onto the ground to set the points. When we regain the main line, the cab is leading again.

We were busy coming out but, going back, we find some large crowds waiting to board. We have plenty of space in the large driving compartment, but it´s getting packed back in the coach. The driver does allow some of the parcels forward into the cab, but no passengers (making me fully realise the privilege being extended to me). We´re travelling more or less West, watching the sunset. Each station stop gets longer and longer as the new passengers try to squeeze on. At one stop, the driver chats to two very old-looking ladies, who then sell me the most overpriced banana I´ve had. But why not - it tasted good.

More luggage comes into the cab, generally through the window. Most unexpected was a white piglet, trussed up in nylon sacking, which was placed on the floor alongside me. It was the very image of ´Babe´. The heat and the noise each time we started away set the pig off crying and struggling, so I quickly had to develop my pig communication skills to try to keep him settled during the rest of the journey. I think I was reasonably successful - the crew were certainly amused. By now, fully dark, the headlights lit up the track for fifty yards or so. At the last few stops, I think we turned passengers away. It was hard to tell in the dark and with all the people milling about. Finally, we arrived back at Trinidad (where my piglet friend was unceremoniously returned to his owner) and all the passengers got off, leaving the crew and some hangers-on (who might have been relatives of the crew).

But we were not quite finished, yet. I knew the likely moves - turn on the triangle at Trinidad ready for the next day's departure then stable in the fairly new railcar shed I´d seen in the morning. The driver asked if I wanted to ´take the chair´ and, of course, I did. I moved away slowly, whistling for a level crossing, just stopped short of the points which were changed for us to turn onto the ´wye´. Draw over the points and wait for the third man to put the points back to the main line and jump on again. The third man signalled when we were clear of the points at the ´top´ of the wye, the business of changing, moving through and retoring the points was repeated then I gingerly backed round the sharp curve, stopping short because the points were not yet set for us to rejoin the main line. Reverse clear of the points, wait for them to be set for the shed then, gently forward and into the shed. The driver eased up the last couple of feet, because I´d been a bit too cautious. But in the dark, on a line I didn´t know and in a railcar I only half understood, I was reasonably happy.

More goodbyes and thanks from me, then I walked back to the hotel, pausing only to buy some blank CDs from the camera shop, so that I can make yet more copies of my treasured photgraphs. What a day!

Photographs

Trinidad, Cuba.
Valle de Los Ingenios Railway.
The Watchtower: Manaca Iznaga, Trinidad, Cuba.
Journey on the Valle de Los Ingenios, Cuba..
Railcar 4021, Valle de Los Ingenios, Cuba..

Steam Heritage, Havana

I think regular steam has now been eliminated in Cuba, apart from tourist trains. I found locomotives (in 'Barry' condition, or worse) on display in a couple of places.

Whilst exploring Havana, my unerring 'nose for steam' (well, sometimes) led me to a car park adjacent to Parque Central in the city centre where a number of locomotives had been 'dumped'. I was told afterwards that these locomotives had turned up in this impromptu museum a few months ago. I found:-

1306: A Baldwin 2-8-0 dating from 1920.
1302: An American 2-6-0 built 1901.
1122: Porter 0-4-0 side tank, works number 4437 built 1909. This is the nearest thing to a working engine at this site.
1351: Another 2-8-0 built 1919.
1172: An 0-4-0 fireless steam locomotive, built in Germany in 1898.
1501: A 2-6-0 built by Rogers in 1904.

There are a number of photographs of these relics: Pictures.

When I got to Estacion Central in the afternoon, I found the 'museum' I'd heard of before my trip - a fenced compound with some interesting relics. I found:-

1207: An elderly 2-4-0 side tank.
1308: An elderly 2-8-0 tender engine.
1403: A Rogers 2-6-0.
No ref: An elderly narrow gauge 0-6-0, together with a well-preserved 4-wheel tender.
1112: An 0-4-2.
1413: Another 2-6-0, this one with a Chinese air pump.
1311: A 2-6-2 side tank.

In a container, I found a miniature live-steam 4-4-0, numbered 1182.

There is a collection of photographs of these locomotives: Pictures.

None of the above appear to be in steamable condition and, I´m sorry, I haven´t even sorted out the gauges yet but, when I´m able, I´ll try to add some more details.

There's a collection of pictures of the Valle de los Ingenios Railway, including a 'working' Baldwin which was 'stopped' during my trip: Pictures.

There are a few pictures of diesel and electric traction and a small collection on the diesel railcar I managed to drive.

Round the World Five - Day 17 (Sat, 22 Mar)

Itinerary: Private transfer from Havana to Trinidad. Your driver and guide will take you via Cienfuego, a town worth a short visit. On arrival in Trinidad you will be taken to your hotel for two nights - the Iberostar Gran Hotel, junior suite (no website found). The Iberostar Gran Trinidad Hotel is a five star hotel located in the center of Trinidad city, the third town founded by DiegoVelázquez and whose rich historical, cultural and artistic value was declared UNESCO Heritage of Mankind in 1988. This city is considered as the best-preserved colonial city in Cuba. Gran Trinidad Hotel has 40 rooms (36 standard rooms and 4 junior suites) is only for adults (over 15 years). The rooms overlook the main square and they have furniture specially designed in combination with the elegant and colonial style of this city. There is a Tourist Steam Train from Trinidad to the Sugar Mills Valley - Valle de los Ingenios, Cuba. Explore Valle de los Ingenios near Trinidad, by fantastic old steam train dating from 1906. Picturesque striking green Valle de los Ingenios was once centre of the sugar and slaves trades, home to the plantations that brought prosperity to Trinidad region in 18th centuries. Nowadays steam train is a main tourist attraction. The train track is incredible through small tunnels and over few huge bridges, right through the sugar cane fields to the hacienda of Pedro Iznaga at Manaca, even continuing to the colonial hacienda Guachinango. Today sugar mills and other remnants are visited by tourists who are attracted by the history of slavery and the beauty of the valley. The main site is the remarkable Manaca Iznaga Tower, that was used by one of the wealthiest men in Cuba, Pedro Iznaga to watch over his African slaves. Rumbos operates the Historic Steam Train, tel:419-6495. Departing daily from Trinidad at 9:30am and returning at 2pm costs $CUC10 round trip.

It´s three o´clock in the afternoon and I´ve just arrived in Trinidad, near Cuba´s southern coast after an interesting 4 hour drive from Havana. It appears the Sugar Mills Railway may not be operating. The hotel is trying to confirm. So far, the hotel appears excellent. More below.

I got up early at the Saratoga in Havana and packed ready to leave for Trinidad. Good Breakfast in the Anacoada Restaurant, then I determined to go back to Casa Blanca. Old Havana isn´t particularly clean. This morning I passed an industrial size wheelie bin standing in one of the squares, with most of the rubbish in plastic bags (or not) on the ground. A couple of people were turning over the contents, looking for useful things. There´d been more rain overnight so some of the streets were a bit muddy. There´s usually at least one pavement but they´re often narrow and with all sorts of obstructions. I reached the ferry jetty, passed through the security inspection and stood in line waiting for the ferry to arrive. It was called ´300 Anniversio´ (dunno, I must look up my Cuban history).

Like a lot of countries, construction in Cuba often uses bits of metal welded together. I was intrigued that the superstructure of the ferry seemed to be rectangles of plate, only about 2 feet by 1 foot, welded together like a brick wall. The welding varies from excellent to poor. You can usually find flame cut raw edges on things. I couldn´t see whether the hull was the same construction but it didn´t sink when I was on it, so that´s all right.

We made the crossing in bright morning sun but still pleasantly cool. Next to the ferry there´s a run down electrified railway line. Yesterday, I couldn´t decide whether it was still in use but, today, there´s an antique 3-car electric train standing there and a dozen or so passengers waiting for the doors to open. Apparently, this was the 8.35 to Matanzas. I hadn´t time to try it out, so I walked up the hill away from the ferry, ignored the main part of the town, and carried on up the hill past the old fortifications to the statue of Christ in Havana. Not as large as the famous one in Rio, but quite impressive and with splendid views across Havana Bay. I caught a glimpse of the electric train leaving, then retraced my steps to the ferry.

Another staple of Cuban building is ´Rebar´ - reinforcing bar, the round steel rod used the world over to reinforce concrete. In Cuba, they use this stuff for everything. Many of the window grilles on buildings are made from rebar as are gates and all sorts of things. Two straight parallel bars with a ´wiggly´ bar welded between them form a simple truss. I found these used as roof purlins but I was amused that, if a roof truss got in the way, they would simply cut away part of the purlin to clear it, weakening the purlin and leaving raw ends on the rebar. I also saw rebar trusses embedded vertically in the columns of concrete buildings. You only know they´re there when the concrete crumbles away, exposing the reinforcing. The ferry jetties are mainly reinforced concrete. These are crumbling away as well so you need to check your footing quite carefully when getting on and off.

I´m not sure how extensive the piped water system is, but there are plenty of water tankers threading their way through some of the narrowest streets.

Back at the Saratoga, there was just time for a shower and check-out before I was picked up by a taxi driven by a young lady with passable English. We headed through the city North then took the road tunnel which crosses the narrow strip of water joining Havana Bay to the Caribbean. There are two 2-lane tunnels which lead to the main dual-carriageway road to the East. The two carriageways have a wide, grassed central reservation, with rectangular beds of flowering bushes at regular intervals. Much prettier than ´Armco´! Each carriageway is a broad strip with little in the way of road markings accommodating at least four lanes plus a hard shoulder. It´s more like driving down an airfield runway. I suspect this was a Russian project, from the time when Russia was investing heavily in Fidel´s regime.

My driver was not hanging about, maintaining 140 kph most of the way (the limit is 110). This is quite adventurous, because in many places the road surface is badly broken up, so you either have a punishing attack on the vehicle suspension or a sudden swerve to find a better surface. We did both. The road´s not exactly busy. There were less than 3 vehicles a minute going in the opposite direction and, since we were overtaking everything on our side, we passed about 3 vehicles a minute. We stopped at a ´services´ and drove to the tyre place. My driver had the spare ´pumped up´ but seemed unconcerned about the lack of tread on the rear wheels. We stopped at the next services and I got my driver a coffee - very strong, small cup, chocolate sprinkled on the top. I stuck to orange juice. At the washroom, you are issued with a bit of toilet roll by the attendant, in exchange for a suitable coin. The stalls had very low doors, reminding me of some school toilets.

We turned off the main road and headed for the regional capital of Cienfuegos. It all became much more rural and there were almost as many horses and cart or horse drawn taxis as motor vehicles. Large hoardings appeared again with various political exhortations. One was painted to look like a computer ´screenshot´ with a alert box saying, roughly, ´George Bush Genocide Plan Delete´ then ´Confirm Delete´ (except that, in Spanish, ´Delete´is ´Eliminar´, which sounds far more threatening). I think we took the by-pass because I only saw dreadful, modern multi-storey flats and the University Campus, before we were on our last leg running over hills then along the South Coast of Cuba where there are a number of resorts before turning inland to our destination, Trinidad. 347 km in just four hours, including stops.

Trinidad is a low-rise colonial town. My hotel forms one side of the town square - traditional outside but quite nicely modernised inside. My suite is well-appointed and overlooks the square. After a shower, I explore on foot. Yes, it is charming but sadly dedicated to the hundreds of tourists milling around (French, German, Japanese - I didn´t see many obvious English). I know I´m a tourist, too, but there´s only one of me and I´m quite quiet. I think of Heisenberg´s Uncertainty Principle which states that an observed system is changed by the observation. The act of visiting to see this colonial town has, inevitably, changed it. The market today sells only craft items: the shops sell postcards and souvenirs: the square is full of air conditioned tour buses.

Photographs

Iberostar Grand Hotel.
Trinidad, Cuba.

Round the World Five - Day 16 (Fri, 21 Mar)

Here we are in Habana (Havana) at the Saratoga Hotel. I'm up early and it's still dark. The rumble of traffic outside is starting to increase, but it's still fairly quiet. The room has two very tall French windows opening onto small balconies above the traffic. It doesn't get light until about half past seven, so I decide to have buffet breakfast first. The Anacaona Restaurant is supposed to open at seven, but didn't open until the front desk chased them up at 7.10. The meal was very good and I was definitely the first in. What do you mean, you've never heard of the famous girl band of the 1930s, the Anacaona Sisters? Neither had I, I'm afraid. Check out Times article.

Armed with a not-very-good city map supplied by the hotel, I set off on foot. You can't see Havana Bay from my room, so I headed for the water through 'Old Havana'. It turned out to be a good time for a walk - still cool but the place coming to life in the rather leisurely way that seems typical of countries with hot climates. A lot of shops and offices open from 8.30 'till one, close for extended lunch and re-open from four p.m. to 7 p.m. I've never seen a city with so many decent buildings in desperate need of repair. The colonial period has left Cuba with some grand public buildings but also street after street of, to my mind, quite elegant buildings. In hot climates, correct building proportions are crucial. Even quite humble housing has a ceiling height of at least twelve feet, often much more. Street level is normally reserved for commercial use or entrance stairs. People live on the floor above, which the Americans call the second floor but the British call the first floor. This living floor often projects forward across the pavement, supported on pillars, forming a shady and cooler colonnade for pedestrians. The front living room invariably has a tall window facing the street, or a window with balcony, and the locals seem to like nothing better than standing at the open window watching the world go by. This design aims to provide reasonable living conditions without fancy modern tricks like air conditioning. This approach is called 'passive thermal design'. During the day, I saw a number of people visiting houses. Each time, the visitor would stand in the middle of the road and bawl out the name of the person required. Some buildings are just two-storey, as described but others are three or more storey, accommodating more living floors. Domestic buildings often have stucco with quite elaborate reliefs, but grander places appear to be stone. Some buildings had the rough surface I associate with volcanic stone.

But there's been chronic under-investment in maintenance over a long period of time. Once water gets into the fabric of a building, the consequences can be seen all around Havana. The buildings either become partially uninhabitable or they fall down completely. Some of the collapsed building sites are now in use for car parking - a bit reminiscent of the bomb-sites in England after the Second World War. It's not just the buildings. Except on main roads, road surfaces have crumbled and cracked. Pavements demand wariness - deep holes abound.

There are plenty of old cars about - not just the 'Chevvy' that you hear of but Fiats, Ladas, all sorts. There are quite of lot of the old 'GM' bus design that I always associate with American yellow school buses. Lorries vary from old Fords through to new. You can be sure anything new is imported. It's not as romantic as in the films of Cuba - some of these old vehicles look as if they've just won a 'Destruction Derby' (they must have won, 'cos they're still moving). Most of the engines are perpetually misfiring so are difficult to start. There are some newer vehicles of all sorts of makes and the more modern buses are 'Bendy Bus' type, just like London.

My route took me East on Muralla (there are small, cast street signs fixed high on the buildings at each intersection - just enough to keep you on track. I assure you it was quite by chance that I came upon the preserved Presidential Railway Coach. You can go inside but I was too early for that: I took some technical record shots instead.

I came out at the middle of three piers which appear to have been built for the big passengers ships. Two appear disused but Northernmost one has been refurbished as a pier for cruise ships. No cruise ship today, but a large sailing vessel is tied-up. After a while, I turn left, away from the bay, to soak up the atmosphere in some of the quieter streets like O'Reilly. I commented some time ago on Avenue Pernardo O'Higgins in Santiago - now we have O'Reilly. Then I go to Parque Central and follow my nose to a parking lot with, in addition to clapped-out cars, clapped-out steam locomotives. Pictures in the parking lot. Then back to the hotel, a little rest and refreshment then purchase a couple of better street maps now that the in-hotel tour office is open.

I'm determined to look at the main railway station and my new maps take me right there. Here, there's another 'museum compound' with more clapped-out steam locomotives. The attendant is a retired locoman and when he sees how interested I am, he follows me from exhibit, chattering incomprehensibly. He shows me very nasty scarring (from a long time ago which, he explains, was sustained when an injector steam pipe fractured. Pictures in the Museum Compound. After I've taken my pictures, we shake hands and I tour the busy concourse of the terminal station. Pictures of Havana Station & the Electric Railway.

Next, I carry on to the waterside and head North past a series of warehouses. An older set of warehouses is currently being restored - newer ones are left to rot, like some of the housing stock. Then I come to a small jetty with a ferryboat moored. No marking on the street to say this is a "Ferry 'cross Habana Bay", except a sign about enhanced security. I notice the ferry is going to 'Regla' which doesn't even appear on my maps. One peso to the man on the jetty and then I'm on the ferry. No nonsense about gangplanks here - the boat ties up and then you scramble on. Strong hands are poised, should anyone need assistance. The crossing is only about five or ten minutes, then we disembark and I walk up into the town, where the pace is even more relaxed than early-morning Havana.

I walk back to the ferry by a different route and am press-ganged by a couple of young women staffing the Regla Museum Annexe. I am given the guided tour in fluent 'Espanol', so it's a good job it's a small annexe. They recommend I check the church next door: 'Free' they proudly say. Uneventful trip back to the jetty on Havana side. There's another ferry to Casa Blanca (no, not that one), just across Havana Bay in a different direction. I decide to cut my visit short because I'm getting tired so I take the ferry back as two powerful tugs escort a Panamanian-registered oil tanker to the oil terminal. Walk back to the hotel for a shower, a meal and an internet session.

Pictures of Havana.

Round the World Five - Day 15 (Thu, 20 Mar)

Itinerary: Private transfer to Cancun airport. Depart terminal 2 12:40 on Mexicana de Aviacion flight MX7574 (See Wikipedia entry). This economy flight of 2hr 5m arrives Havana, Cuba at 15:45. Operated by Click Grupo Mexicana. Then the Discover Cuba Tour operated by Havanatour UK Ltd. Stay Prado Suite at Saratoga Hotel in Havana for two nights, including breakfast.

Picked up OK by car and we set off for Cancun taking the toll road. Most of the Yukatan is covered by, well, it's not really jungle, more like the Australian Bush. You can't often see traffic going the other way because they've left the bush on the reservation. They opened the toll road 12 years ago, but most locals don't use it - they stick to the old, 'free' roads. I doubt if we saw a couple of dozen vehicles in about two hours on the toll road (if you don't count the locals on tricycles scavenging wood for cooking).

Cancun Airport is modern and pleasant, as these places go. I got checked in OK (using an e-ticket) and stooged around the Departure Hall. After the usual extra document checks, we walked a few yards to board our aircraft - a Fokker F100 seating around 100. The flight only took an hour but the approach to Havana was a bit bumpy. Landed safely, immigation, baggage claim and customs was painless. Found the Havanatur desk and fairly soon was on my way into the city by taxi.

When I've thought about my first impressions, I'll comment further. There are plenty of hoardings, but they're all exhortations to the proleteriat. There was one with a picture of a 747 going down in flames with the tag 'Justice!'. I didn't think that was very welcoming. But the hotel was very friendly.

The 'Saratoga' is an oldish building reasonably modernised. My suite is a 'duplex': quite nice sitting room downstairs with bedroom and bathroom upstairs. I'm a bit tired after the exertions of yesterday and travelling today, so I'm going enjoy my accommodation and have a simple meal in the room. Best of all, there's a high speed internet connection in the room that actually works.

Later on in the evening we had heavy tropical rainstorms so I was quite pleased I'd decided to stay in. I've promised myself I'll be up and about early tomorrow to explore Havana.

Pictures of the Saratoga Hotel.

Round the World Five - Day 14 (Wed, 19 Mar)

Itinerary: Today you will be collected early for a morning sightseeing tour of the archaeological site. Entrance fee included. Stay at Mayaland Lodge.

I went to see the Light Show at the ruins last night. Commentary all in Spanish. Well, that´s what they speak hereabouts, so not unreasonable. I should get a guided tour of the ruins this morning, before the tourists arrive by road from Cancun, about 200km away. The rest of the day should be 'at leisure' here.

Bit of a false start as guide didn't turn up at eight. I got fixed up with a different guide but then had to pay him. However, when I got back to the hotel, they refunded me, so that's all right. Jaime was an excellent guide with a remarkable English vocabulary so we had a good morning going round the Mayan ruins at Chichen Itza, right next to the hotel. So, the short version is the one you might have seen a few times before:-

"Jan looks round a load of old ruins".

In the afternoon, I make three more forays into the ruined city. The place now has thousands of tourists and the souvenir sellers ranged around the buildings and along the tracks connecting the buildings are on full alert. But its still possible to find the odd quiet corner.

The following notes are based on what Jaime told me but, of course, it's always possible that I misunderstood some details.

Chicken Itza has a history in some ways similar to Macchu Pichu - a huge city state built using amazing resources which flourished for a few hundred years and then became deserted, bring absorbed back into the jungle. Again, rediscovery was by European adventurers or investigators (the science of archaeology had not yet developed and some of the investigative techniques originally used leave something to be desired).

In the colonial era, Mexico was carved into huge estates, each controlled from the hacienda by the Spanish. The ruined city of Chichen Itza was owned by the hacienda near what is now the Mayaland Hotel. So, when Edward Thompson became interested in investigating the ruins, he acquired the hacienda and became the owner of the city. He explored the site between 1896 and 1907. Ownership of the ruins passed with the hacienda so that the owners of the present hotel also own the archaeological site. The museum site is actually administered by a government department and moves are afoot for title to pass to the government.

Before Thompson, the American lawyer and writer John Lloyd Stephens and English architect Frederick Catherwood jointly explored the site in 1842. Lloyd wrote about the Mayan civilisation and Catherwood produced a series of illustrations of what they saw. I hope his illustrations were accurate, because they were used as guidance in subsequent conservation work! The French Canadian Augustus Le Plongeon carried out investigations with his wife, but he was fond of using dynamite to gain entry to the more problematic ruins. In this way, many valuable artefacts were found and removed from Mexico. A few have since been repatriated.

Between 1924 and 1932 the Carnegie Foundation funded the restoration of about twenty of the most important buildings on the site.

Mayans believed that the universe could be represented by the Sacred Tree of Life, the Ceiba. Heaven was represented by the branches, the earth by the roots. There were a number of divinities, such as the God of Water and the God of Commerce. The early Mayans has acquired great knowledge and skills in building to great precision. They understood the cycling of the seasons and had developed a calendar to plan their activities. The Southern Group of buildings at Chichen Itza includes an observatory with some interesting properties. The equinoxes and solstices were particularly celebrated.

The priorities for Mayans were water, food, clothing materials and shelter.

Water: Although there are no rivers in the Yukatan, there is water underground and so cities were built near water supplies. Water was stored in lagoons or cisterns.

Food: The Mayans were predominmantly vegetarian, eating grains like corn, beans,leaves, squash, roots and tubers. They would eat meat like venison, wild turtle, wild boar but 70% of their diet was vegetarian. Even eggs were rarely consumed.

Clothing materials: The Mayans technical capabiliities had given them a variety of clothing materials li9ke kapok, sisal sabre, sansiberia and other hard and soft fibres.

Shelter: They needed buildings for shelter and for food storage. ould cultivate, gather the crop and store it. It was a highly developed society. As in modern cities, public buildings were in the centre of the site, with the ordinary people housed further out. Civic buildings displayed a mastery of stone working but ordinary houses were simple wooden-framed structures, often with mud walls and pitched roofs thatched with bamboo.

In this period, the population of Chichen Itza was around 70,000 and it's believed that most people worked - the suggestion that extensive slave labour was used is probably an exaggeration.

Local limestone is the main building material but, since this is permeable, walls were often plastered, inside and out, and decorated with polychrome, predominantly red. Flint and volcanic granite transported from other areas were also used. Early Mayan architecture features very precise masonry with high relief carved panels often applied as a cladding in the form of stone 'tiles'. Flint was commonly used for tools as well as the volcanic, glass-like obsidian. The Mayans used gold, silver and jade in their artefacts.

Photographs

Mayaland, Chichen Itza
Chichen Itza