Events of Thursday 1st May 2014
So, once again it was back on the Air Bagan tubo-prop from Mandalay to Yangon. Shortly after take-off, I got a decent view of the North – South dual carriageway highway which now links Mandalay and Yangon. I’d used the road route last year, when I’d stopped off for one night at the new capital, Naypyidaw. Driving along that section of road is described here (that whole trip to Viet Nam, Australia and Burma is described in a series of posts here).
Leaving Mandalay - view of the North-South Highway.
I hadn’t realised until the ‘Fasten Seat Belt’ sign came on that my flight was making an intermediate stop at the attractively-named Heho. This is a gateway for air travellers to Shan State and, in particular, the amazing Inle Lake, which I’d visited on an earlier trip. Quite a few European tourists got off, a few passengers got on and within fifteem minutes we were airborne again, headed for Yangon’s Mingalardon Airport. On arrival, I was quickly re-united with my checked baggage and located my waiting driver who, having located me, disappeared to fetch the car. This time, I notice that the busy Pick-up and Drop-off area which is always a scrum had acquired a large steel portal framed shed – a transit shed for people. It at least makes the interchange cooler if not much more pleasant as you’re still likely to be assailed by freelance porters, taxi and hotel touts.
An unusually quiet moment at the Pick-Up & Drop-Off area at Yangon's Domestic Terminal.
It was only a short wait before my car appeared from the car park, my luggage was loaded and I was in the rear seat of a decent saloon imported from Japan. For once, I was happy to leave the air conditioning on.
I’ve always found the traffic in Yangon horrendous during the day but I’m sure it’s getting worse and it took us well over an hour to reach my home for the next two nights, the Strand Hotel.
For me the Strand is up there with the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok and the Raffles Hotel in Singapore. It’s regular guests included all the ‘usual suspects’ like Somerset Maugham and Noel Coward. I rather think the Strand is my favourite as it performs its tasks unobtrusively. I had room 210 on this occasion and immediately started to relax after my journey.
Room 210 at Yangon's Strand Hotel.
However, I always feel I should be outside, trying to look and learn about this fascinating country. I thought that a walk to Yangon Central railway station would enable me to combine “people watching” with making further study of the railways. There is always so much going on in the streets, all at once, that it simply defeats my attempts at description. Some people seem oblivious to their surroundings and sleep or get on with the minutiae of life apparently unaware of other people. But the majority of people seem industrious, engaged in the business of buying and selling to just get by. I noticed an elderly man sitting on the kerb, with a battered pair of bathroom scales in the gutter in front of him – bingo! You have a self-employed businessman.
A novel 'I speak your weight' concept.
Of course, there’s always plenty to watch at Yangon’s Central Station. I’d read a report that the Station Master had placed a steam locomotive on a plinth at the station, since he thought it would be of interest to foreign visitors. I’d seen the exhibit from a distance but wanted to make a better record. It’s one of the handsome 4-6-4 ‘Baltic’ tanks, running number 'As 144'. My more technical thoughts, I’ll defer until another post.
'Alsthom' Bo-Bo-Bo diesel-electric passing the plinthed steam locomotive.
Well-toasted by the afternoon sun, I started to walk (stagger?) back to my hotel, recording some of the architecture from the 1920s and earlier. When I reached the MahaBandoola Park, I noticed lots of people sitting in the shade of the various ornamental shrubs on the coarse grass so I selected a vacant bush and flopped down. The sight of an elderly European lady on the ground caused some amusement with passers by but my smile was invaribly returned.
Along one side of the park, protesters were encamped along the pavement, The pavement was covered by a flat fabric roof erected over a framework of bamboo supports apparently serving the kitchen and sleeping area. An adjacent strip of road had also been fenced off with string and traffic cones and most of the mainly middle-aged protesters were in this area, talking quietly. The encampment had the appearance of having been established for some time and the protesters appeared ready to continue for some time. Most of the banners were in Burmese (logical) but a couple were in English. One read:-
“Our land is our life” Compensation is NOT the solution!
Protesters' encampment outside the MahaBandoola Garden.
I’m afraid the Myanmar Government still has a reputation for ‘land-grabs’, for instance, New Bagan came into being when the Government announced that Old Bagan was being requisitioned. Road, Rail and Industrial projects all appear to have ridden rough-shod over the wishes of local people.
Of course, we consider ourselves far more democratic in the U.K. (HS2, anyone?).
My Pictures
Mandalay International Airport.
Yangon Airport.
Strand Hotel, Yangon.
Around Yangon, 2014.
Yangon's Railways.
More
Next Post describing this trip.
[Revised 27-May-2014, 28-May-2014]
