On Tuesday, 19th February 2013 I travelled from Mandalay to Maymyo (as the British called it - we should now say 'Pyin Oo Lwin') by train. A general description of the day is given in my post here. This article covers more technical aspects of the journey.
Whereas Mandalay is situated on the plain adjacent to the River Ayeyarwaddy, Maymyo is up in the mountains, at an elevation of 3506 feet above sea level. It required some ingenuity on the part of the builders of the railway to build a line suitable for normal locomotives. Beyond Sedaw, they used a zig-zag where trains shuffles backwards and forwards between four 'Reversing Stations' in order to gain height before completing the journey to Maymyo. The layout of the zig-zag section is shown below.
Plan of the Zig-Zag railway in the line to Maymyo.
The timings for my journey are given below.
| Station | Distance* | Arrive | Depart |
| Mandalay | 390 | - | 6.17 |
| Shan Zu | 389 | pass | 6.25 |
| Myo Haung | 383 | 6.30 | 6.37 |
| Thoe Gyan | 385 | 6.45 | 6.46 |
| Tonbo | 392 | 7.13 | 7.16 |
| Sedaw | 396 | 7.32 | 7.53 |
| Sa Tu Ta Lun Hto | 400 | 8.27 | 8.32 |
| Zybingi | 405 | 9.02 | 9.05 |
| Thondaung | 411 | 9.36 | 9.37 |
| Anisakan | 415 | 9.51 | 9.54 |
| Maymyo (Pyin Oo Lwin) | 422 | 10.17 | - |
* Distances are approximate in miles from Yangon, given by Wikipedia. They decrease between Mandalay and the junction at Myo Haung, then increase towards Maymyo.
As the table shows, the departure from Mandalay, scheduled for 04:00, did not occur until 06:17. I never found out why. The locomotive to haul our train (DF.2048, one of the Bo-Bo-Bo types with automatic couplings and air brakes which seem to be favoured in the mountains) was waiting at the south end of platform 4 when I arrived at 03:20 but the station pilot didn't arrive with our coaches until around six. Then, we had to wait while the porters loaded the waiting freight into the box car and guard's van at the rear. Admittedly, they did this very smartly.
Waiting for the train at Mandalay Central.
It was still too dark to see much as our train made its way to our first stop - Myo Haung. I'd visited this station by car the previous day so there's a separate set of pictures showing this station. This is quite a large junction station with extensive yards. I suspect it was the location of a locomotive depot in steam days - there were plenty of diesel locomotives littered around the sidings during my visits. Up until Myo Haung, we'd been on double track with colour light signals (actually searchlight signals at Myo Haung). Here, we turned left onto the single line which would take us to Maymyo so there were no more colour lights and train control reverted to the methods outlined in the post Manual Control of Points and Interlocking.
Leaving Myo Haung, entering Lashio line.
We passed some pretty impressive rubbish dumps - the Burmese don't seem to have yet fully grasped the concept of recycling. We should have passed the junction with Mandalay's Circle Line but I'm afraid I didn't spot it. I did see the turnouts leading to two short branch lines which I think serve quarries. Elsewhere, points have been controlled from single lever ground frames but, on the line to Maymyo, you can also see counterweighted 'lift-over' point levers, accompanied by the usual battered point indicator and often surrounded by whitewashed stones.
Passing Loop Points at Thoe Gyan. Counterweighted point lever and battered point indicator.
We paused at a couple of small but neat stations at Thoe Gyan and Tonbo before stopping at the more important station at Sedaw, nestling near the mountains we were about to climb. We stopped here about twenty minutes and passengers were able to de-train and examine the food offered by the numerous hawkers who had set up stalls on the platform. There was also plenty of freight to be offloaded here from the last two vehicles. In addition to a passing loop, there was an additional siding here. As we left, I saw two abandoned water cranes, conjuring up images from the steam era of locomotives 'topping off' their water tanks before the assault on the fierce gradients ahead.
The train made the usual slow start away from the station, then the locomotive was 'opened up' for the initial climb to the First Reversing Station. This only took about seven minutes.
Looking back, entering the First Reversing Station. The line to Second Reversing Station climbs away to the right.
When we stopped, the pointsman changed the points so that the locomotive could propel the train to the next reversing station. The guard moved to the footstep on the end of his Guard's Van, which was now the front of the train, so that he could keep a lookout ahead. Although the guard could not be seen, the driver could watch the waving green flag peeking around the Guard's Van.
Being propelled from the First Reversing Station to the Second, with the Guard's Van now leading. The Guard is on the footstep at the end of the vehicle, brandishing a green flag.
Approaching the Second Reversing Station. The Guard is still displaying a green flag.
Looking towards locomotive as the train is propelled into the Second Reversing Station. The line climbing to the Third Reversing Station is on the left. The single lever frame is for a Home Signal. A Home Signal is visible behind the locomotive.
It only took a few minutes to reach the second reversing station and the guard regained his usual position in the Van whilst the pointsman changed and secured the points. Then we were away again, with the locomotive leading. The track clings to the edge of the mountain and, looking down, it was clear how far above the plains we'd already climbed.
The Zig-Zag has already lifted us far above the line we started on.
As you can see from the plan above, the leg from the second to third reversing station is the longest and it took around twenty minutes to cover the distance, the diesel working fairly hard on the front. At first, the jagged rock wall was on our left, with stunning views across the mountains to the right. We passed through two short tunnels and then curled to the right, with the views now appearing on our left. We then passed the third tunnel with the Fourth Reversing Station directly above us! A fairly primitive white-painted elevated ground frame appeared on our right as we entered the Third Reversing Station. Very soon, we stated to move with the Guard's Van leading again as the locomotive propelled its train onto the right hand line to the Fourth Reversing Station. Both arms of the 2-doll bracket signal (an upper quadrant using the strange 'lower quadrant' arms common in Burma) remained 'on' - I assume the pointsman was giving us a green flag on the other side of the train.
Leaving the Third Reversing Station with the Guard's Van leading.
It was only a short distance to the Fourth Reversing Station which is a public station called Sa Tu Ta Lun Hto). Here, a scissors crossover allows ascending and descending trains to pass one another.
Looking back as we pass over the scissors crossover and enter the Fourth Reversing Station with the line continuing to Maymyo on the left.
Although I'd imagined we were in a remote spot, there seemed quite a few passengers waiting to board and we stood for five minutes whilst they sorted themselves out.
The modest station building at Sa Tu Ta Lun Hto.
With our locomotive once again leading, we set off, passing another abandoned water crane. We continued to climb, passing through a couple more tunnels before emerging on a high plateau but still climbing. Another half hour saw us arriving at Zybingi (1884 feet above sea level) and, I admit, after the early start and the excitement of the Zig-Zag, I wasn't paying too much attention. A further half hour took us to Thondaung. There was a rather odd windlass here, which I assume probably operated a home signal but soon we were off again.
Thondaung: An unusual windlass.
Another fifteen minutes took us to the last stop before Maymyo - Anisaken.
Anisaken station building.
Another half hour, and we were running into Maymyo, where my guide and driver were patiently waiting for my delayed train. After Maymyo, the train would then continue to Lashio but, on this occasion at least, without me.
A fascinating, if exhausting, trip.
DF.2048 on arrival at Maymyo.
References
List of railway stations in Myanmar.
My pictures
Railways in Myanmar (Mandalay on earlier visit).
More Railways in Burma (Maymyo on earlier visit).
By Train to Maymyo.
Myo Haung.
