By Rail to Maymyo

On Tuesday, 19th February 2013 I travelled from Mandalay to Maymyo (as the British called it - we should now say 'Pyin Oo Lwin') by train. A general description of the day is given in my post here. This article covers more technical aspects of the journey.

Whereas Mandalay is situated on the plain adjacent to the River Ayeyarwaddy, Maymyo is up in the mountains, at an elevation of 3506 feet above sea level. It required some ingenuity on the part of the builders of the railway to build a line suitable for normal locomotives. Beyond Sedaw, they used a zig-zag where trains shuffles backwards and forwards between four 'Reversing Stations' in order to gain height before completing the journey to Maymyo. The layout of the zig-zag section is shown below.


Plan of the Zig-Zag railway in the line to Maymyo.

The timings for my journey are given below.

Station	Distance*	Arrive	Depart
Mandalay	390	-	6.17
Shan Zu	389	pass	6.25
Myo Haung	383	6.30	6.37
Thoe Gyan	385	6.45	6.46
Tonbo	392	7.13	7.16
Sedaw	396	7.32	7.53
Sa Tu Ta Lun Hto	400	8.27	8.32
Zybingi	405	9.02	9.05
Thondaung	411	9.36	9.37
Anisakan	415	9.51	9.54
Maymyo (Pyin Oo Lwin)	422	10.17	-

* Distances are approximate in miles from Yangon, given by Wikipedia. They decrease between Mandalay and the junction at Myo Haung, then increase towards Maymyo.

As the table shows, the departure from Mandalay, scheduled for 04:00, did not occur until 06:17. I never found out why. The locomotive to haul our train (DF.2048, one of the Bo-Bo-Bo types with automatic couplings and air brakes which seem to be favoured in the mountains) was waiting at the south end of platform 4 when I arrived at 03:20 but the station pilot didn't arrive with our coaches until around six. Then, we had to wait while the porters loaded the waiting freight into the box car and guard's van at the rear. Admittedly, they did this very smartly.

Waiting for the train at Mandalay Central.

It was still too dark to see much as our train made its way to our first stop - Myo Haung. I'd visited this station by car the previous day so there's a separate set of pictures showing this station. This is quite a large junction station with extensive yards. I suspect it was the location of a locomotive depot in steam days - there were plenty of diesel locomotives littered around the sidings during my visits. Up until Myo Haung, we'd been on double track with colour light signals (actually searchlight signals at Myo Haung). Here, we turned left onto the single line which would take us to Maymyo so there were no more colour lights and train control reverted to the methods outlined in the post Manual Control of Points and Interlocking.


Leaving Myo Haung, entering Lashio line.

We passed some pretty impressive rubbish dumps - the Burmese don't seem to have yet fully grasped the concept of recycling. We should have passed the junction with Mandalay's Circle Line but I'm afraid I didn't spot it. I did see the turnouts leading to two short branch lines which I think serve quarries. Elsewhere, points have been controlled from single lever ground frames but, on the line to Maymyo, you can also see counterweighted 'lift-over' point levers, accompanied by the usual battered point indicator and often surrounded by whitewashed stones.


Passing Loop Points at Thoe Gyan. Counterweighted point lever and battered point indicator.

We paused at a couple of small but neat stations at Thoe Gyan and Tonbo before stopping at the more important station at Sedaw, nestling near the mountains we were about to climb. We stopped here about twenty minutes and passengers were able to de-train and examine the food offered by the numerous hawkers who had set up stalls on the platform. There was also plenty of freight to be offloaded here from the last two vehicles. In addition to a passing loop, there was an additional siding here. As we left, I saw two abandoned water cranes, conjuring up images from the steam era of locomotives 'topping off' their water tanks before the assault on the fierce gradients ahead.

The train made the usual slow start away from the station, then the locomotive was 'opened up' for the initial climb to the First Reversing Station. This only took about seven minutes.

Looking back, entering the First Reversing Station. The line to Second Reversing Station climbs away to the right.

When we stopped, the pointsman changed the points so that the locomotive could propel the train to the next reversing station. The guard moved to the footstep on the end of his Guard's Van, which was now the front of the train, so that he could keep a lookout ahead. Although the guard could not be seen, the driver could watch the waving green flag peeking around the Guard's Van.


Being propelled from the First Reversing Station to the Second, with the Guard's Van now leading. The Guard is on the footstep at the end of the vehicle, brandishing a green flag.


Approaching the Second Reversing Station. The Guard is still displaying a green flag.


Looking towards locomotive as the train is propelled into the Second Reversing Station. The line climbing to the Third Reversing Station is on the left. The single lever frame is for a Home Signal. A Home Signal is visible behind the locomotive.

It only took a few minutes to reach the second reversing station and the guard regained his usual position in the Van whilst the pointsman changed and secured the points. Then we were away again, with the locomotive leading. The track clings to the edge of the mountain and, looking down, it was clear how far above the plains we'd already climbed.

The Zig-Zag has already lifted us far above the line we started on.

As you can see from the plan above, the leg from the second to third reversing station is the longest and it took around twenty minutes to cover the distance, the diesel working fairly hard on the front. At first, the jagged rock wall was on our left, with stunning views across the mountains to the right. We passed through two short tunnels and then curled to the right, with the views now appearing on our left. We then passed the third tunnel with the Fourth Reversing Station directly above us! A fairly primitive white-painted elevated ground frame appeared on our right as we entered the Third Reversing Station. Very soon, we stated to move with the Guard's Van leading again as the locomotive propelled its train onto the right hand line to the Fourth Reversing Station. Both arms of the 2-doll bracket signal (an upper quadrant using the strange 'lower quadrant' arms common in Burma) remained 'on' - I assume the pointsman was giving us a green flag on the other side of the train.

Leaving the Third Reversing Station with the Guard's Van leading.

It was only a short distance to the Fourth Reversing Station which is a public station called Sa Tu Ta Lun Hto). Here, a scissors crossover allows ascending and descending trains to pass one another.

Looking back as we pass over the scissors crossover and enter the Fourth Reversing Station with the line continuing to Maymyo on the left.

Although I'd imagined we were in a remote spot, there seemed quite a few passengers waiting to board and we stood for five minutes whilst they sorted themselves out.

The modest station building at Sa Tu Ta Lun Hto.

With our locomotive once again leading, we set off, passing another abandoned water crane. We continued to climb, passing through a couple more tunnels before emerging on a high plateau but still climbing. Another half hour saw us arriving at Zybingi (1884 feet above sea level) and, I admit, after the early start and the excitement of the Zig-Zag, I wasn't paying too much attention. A further half hour took us to Thondaung. There was a rather odd windlass here, which I assume probably operated a home signal but soon we were off again.

Thondaung: An unusual windlass.

Another fifteen minutes took us to the last stop before Maymyo - Anisaken.

Anisaken station building.

Another half hour, and we were running into Maymyo, where my guide and driver were patiently waiting for my delayed train. After Maymyo, the train would then continue to Lashio but, on this occasion at least, without me.

A fascinating, if exhausting, trip.

DF.2048 on arrival at Maymyo.

References

List of railway stations in Myanmar.

My pictures

Railways in Myanmar (Mandalay on earlier visit).
More Railways in Burma (Maymyo on earlier visit).
By Train to Maymyo.
Myo Haung.

Railway Signalling in Burma - Part 6: Signal Boxes with Electrical Interlocking

The British built the extensive metre gauge railway network in Burma. 

Around Yangon and on main lines there's double track which is being extended but much of the network is single track with passing loops.

  Whilst the majority of the railway has fairly simple arrangements for the control of trains (see Railway Signalling in Burma: Part 3 - Control of Trains there are a number of areas with colour light signals and power operation of points.

Yangon Central

On my first trip to Burma in 2008, I travelled on the Circle Line in Yangon (see my post The Circle Line, Yangon) and that got me hooked on railways in Burma. Yangon Central was clearly controlled from a Power Box and the signalling was in a familiar, British style. All the signal numbers were prefixed 'R', which I was confident stood for the old city name 'Rangoon'. Although I suspected it was a Westinghouse Brake and Signal installation, it was some years before I got confirmation. Yangon Central had been severely damaged by bombing in the Second World War and I discovered that in January 1946, an order was placed with Westinghouse Brake and Signal Company for a Style 'L' miniature lever frame for Yangon Central (see my post here). I'm ashamed to say, I failed to find the Power Box itself until my visit in February 2013. The building is integrated with the post-WWII station buildings immediately over the north end of the main footbridge. Once spotted, its function is clear.

Yangon Central Power Box hides at the north end of the main footbridge.

Having found the Power Box, the next question was does the 1946 frame survive? Confined to public areas, this was hard to determine but a series of pictures using the power of the zoom on the Fujifilm F770EXR convinced me that the Style 'L' frame is alive and well.

The left hand end of the Westinghouse lever frame.

Insein

Insein is a fairly complex station area fully signalled by colour light or position light signals and with power-operated points. I noted that some signal numbers were prefixed 'R', which I initially assumed meant a satellite interlocking controlled from Yangon's power box. I abandoned that idea when I realised that signals reading away from Yangon were coded 'R' but signals reading towards Yangon were coded 'L'. So my candidate for the Insein Power Box is now the 3-storey building on platform 1 shown below.

Insein station. I believe the upper floor of the building in the background is the signal box. Note the radio mast.

My post Yangon Area Railways describes the Westinghouse Style 'L' miniature lever frame intended for 'Kemmendine' but not used there. Is it possible the frame was adapted for Insein? Yes, it is (there's precedent - the frame ordered for Preston was stored until after WWII and then modified for use at Euston). But, at present, I have no evidence. Can anyone help? The outside equipment at Insein doesn't look very British. Remembering that Myanmar has been largely closed to the West since the military takeover until the recent liberalisation, I believe Chinese involvement is possible - certainly some of the diesel-electric locomotives in use are from China.

Mandalay

Mandalay is the second largest city in Myanmar and it has a large railway station. The present station is quite modern and the whole station area has colour light signals and power operation of points. I'm pretty confident that the 3-storey building at the north end of the station (shown below) is the power box, but I don't know the extent of its control area or, indeed, the type of control panel. Bearing in mind the isolation of Myanmar described above, I believe Chinese supply of the signalling equipment is possible.



Signal Box at the north end of Mandalay Central station.

The next signal box I've identified going south from Mandalay is at Myo Haung, a few miles south. Myo Haung has a reasonably modern 2-storey concrete signal box with a low-slung gabled roof. The area is controlled by searchlight signals with position light subsidiary and ground signals. There is no route indication so I suspect a non-British influence. As at Mandalay, I believe Chinese supply of the signalling equipment is possible. Main line points appear to be power-operated but, to confuse the issue, there's also some point rodding which, if still in use, may mean that Myo Haung retains mechanical interlocking. I'm afraid more information is needed.

Myo Haung, showing signal box (centre) and searchlight signal (right).

Photographs

The Circle Line, Yangon (2013).
Myo Haung.
By Train to Maymyo

The above sets of pictures form part of the Collection Railways in Burma.

Railway Signalling in Burma - Part 4: Manual Control of Points and Interlocking

In the previous article on railway signalling in Burma Part 3 - Control of Trains, I reviewed my understanding of the origins of the systems in use. But I started to work out the methods in use much earlier, from observations I made from the cab of a diesel locomotive described in the post Cab Ride from Katha (and the associated posts and links to pictures).

Single Line Passing Loops

At passing loops, the only signals are normally a splitting home signal at each end of the station, situated at the toe of the points, allowing movements onto either Main or Loop line. The signal arms may be arranged as upper-quadrant or lower quadrant but both types are operated by push rods from the ground, interlocked with the loop points. Normally, a single lever ground frame operates the signal with the appropriate arm 'selected' by an interlock with the points. There are also various 'EIC' lock boxes in between the rails at points and mounted near the base of the signals. Apparently, some areas have elevated, multi-lever ground frames by MacKenzie and Holland but stations and junctions I've seen to date use a single-lever ground frame adjacent to the points, provided with a (usually rather derelict) point indicator.

'Trapped Key' Interlocking

The 1930s article refers to 'Simplex' interlocking which I haven't traced but I assume refers to the 'EIC' equipment. I haven't identified 'EIC' either so if anyone has any information it would be appreciated. By studying my photographs, I'd largely decided how the interlocking was intended to work but then I found a Paper by R. C. Rose titled 'A Survey of Indian Signalling' in the 1924 Proceedings of the Institution of Railway Signal Engineers (available online here) which seemed to confirm the philosophy. 'Trapped Key' Interlocking is still widespread in industrial safety as Castell Interlocks (introduced by James Harry Castell in 1922 adapting ideas first used on the railways).

Consider the simplest form of the railway passing loop. A single line splits into two through the station and then the two lines re-converge into the ongoing single line. There are just two sets of points. To reduce cost, both sets of points are operated local to the switch by hand. In Burma, a Single Lever Ground Frame is provided adjacent to the toe of the points and a Point Indicator may be fitted.

Ywa Taung: Single Lever Ground Frame which operates the points via the 'L' crank and Drive Rod on the right. Note that the long arm of the 'L' crank is adjustable, allowing the 'throw' to be adjusted. The Point Indicator on the left is operated directly from the points via a separate delector rod.

The Station Master has two Pointsmen who can be despatched to the handpoints to set them as required. But if the pointsmen make errors, trains can arrive on the wrong track, departing trains can 'trail' incorrectly set points or points can be changed as a train is passing over them.

So, various forms of key-locking apparatus were produced with the aim of giving the Station Master confidence that his instructions had been correctly carried out. The EIC Locking Box is one method of establishing this confidence, using the 'Trapped Key' method.

Detail of EIC Locking Box fitted between the rails on the Loop Points at the south end of Naba station. The Loop Handles on the two lock slides are at opposite ends of the box. The interlocking key is clearly visible on the left of the box. (In addition, the points have been clipped in the normal position - the point clip is on the left hand stock rail).

View of another Point Locking Box fitted between the rails (this one at Ywa Taung). Note the slot on the right of box for the interlocking key. There are two lock slides with loop handles. Each switch rail appears to have a separate detector blade.

What I've called the 'Lock Slides', manually moved in and out using the loop handles, serve the function of locking the points normal or reverse. In normal British Practice, there is one 'Lock' which can pass through either of two notches in the Point Stretcher. But in the EIC Locking Box, there is one notch, allowing one 'Lock Slide' to pass through the notch when the points are set to 'Main' and the other 'Lock Slide' to pass through the notch when the points are set to 'Loop'. As a further refinement, on some designs, each switch rail has its own notched detector blade so that both switch rails are separately detected.

If the 'Main' 'Lock Slide' can be pushed in, the 'Main' Key in the side of the Lock Box can be extracted. Once the Key is removed, the 'Lock Slide' cannot be pulled out and the points are held in the 'Main' position until the 'Main' Key is re-inserted. In a similar way, the 'Loop' Key can only be removed if the points are proved in the 'Loop' position.

Ignoring the complication of signals, if two Pointsmen each present 'Main' Keys to the Station Master, he may be confident that the points are set for the 'Main' at both ends of the loop.

In India, a further development allowed splitting home signals to be worked from a ground frame on the platform. In Burma I've not (yet) seen such an arrangement but at many passing loops splitting home signals are provided but worked locally.

Interlocking between Loop Points and Push Rods for selecting the signal arms of the Down Inner Home at Naba. Note the two 'EIC' lock boxes.

My Pictures

Burma: Control of Points and Interlocking.

The above set of pictures is part of a Collection Railways in Burma.

Railway Signalling in Burma - Part 5: Signal Boxes with Interlocking Frames

The British built the extensive metre gauge railway network in Burma. 

Around Yangon and on main lines there's double track which is being extended but much of the network is single track with passing loops.

  Whilst the majority of the railway has fairly simple arrangements for the control of trains (see Railway Signalling in Burma: Part 3 - Control of Trains there are some signal boxes with conventional interlocked mechanical lever frames. I've seen two at Bago and two at Kyee Myin Daing on the Circle Line in Yangon.

Bago

Bago is on the double-track main line from Yangon to Mandalay and has two mechanical signal boxes - Bago South at the Yangon end of the station and Bago North, controlling the junction with the single line to Mawlamyine at the other end. The area has mechanical operation of points and semaphore signals.

Signal Box at south end of Bago Station.

Signal Box at north end of Bago Station.

I've only seen these boxes from a passing train or, in the case of Bago South, from a roadbridge but more details of both can be found on the International Steam Pages site here ("The Old Order Changeth" by Rob and Yuehong Dickinson) and here (Melvin Haigh's photographs on Rob Daniel's interesting 'Flickr' site).

Kyee Myin Daing

Kyee Myin Daing (called 'Kemmendine' by the British) is an important station on the Circle Line to the West of Yangon Central and retains two mechanical signal boxes. This is rather odd because in January 1946, an order was placed with Westinghouse Brake and Signal Company for a Style 'L' miniature lever frame for Kemmendine (see my post here). I've not been able to find out what happened to this frame although a hunch is that it might have been deployed instead a few stations up the line at Insein. The area has mechanical operation of points and retains some semaphore signals but the main line signals have been converted to colour light signals (the rest of the Circle Line has colour light signals), necessitating electrical detection of facing points in the main line. Whilst the rest of the Circle Line is track circuited, the facing points at Kyee Myin Daing retain locking bars on the facing points and track circuits do not seem to be provided in the area. The box at the north end has a gabled roof and spartan appearance, as shown in the picture below.

Mechanical signal box, north end of Kyee Myin Daing. The building next to the track in the foreground is probably a relay/equipment room since the main running lines have colour light signals.

The box at the south end is adjacent to the clockwise Circle Line and has a hipped roof. I don't yet have a picture.

Mechanical Operation of Points

Points are operated mechanically using steel tubes (as some British practice), as shown below.

Point rodding, showing tube couplers and vertical roller frames at Kyee Myin Daing.

Mechanically operated facing points at Kyee Myin Daing, with separate facing point bolt and locking bar (on left rail). The grey box on the left is electric point detection to control the 2-aspect colour light signal with two line-of-lights route indicators in the background.

Photographs

  Bago Station.
By Train to Maymyo.
The Circle Line, Yangon (2013).

The above sets of pictures form part of the Collection Railways in Burma.

Back to Yangon

Events of Friday, 22nd February 2013

The Aureum Palace Hotel provided a good cooked breakfast so, by the time my guide and driver arrived, I was checked out and ready to leave.

The Lobby of the Aureum Palace Hotel, with Reception on the left.

We returned to the Mandalay-Yangon Highway by backtracking along the route we'd travelled on our arrival the day before. I'm not a very good car passenger, so I found the long journey south rather tiring. I anxiously counted down the distance markers (provided every 100 metres, I think). Once again, there was very little traffic.

The Highway south.

There was a Rest Stop about halfway to the end of the Highway, where I expected us to stop but, after some hesitation by the driver, we kept going. I think he missed the turn. Shortly after, we did turn off to reach a modern petrol station I'd spotted a few hundred yards from the highway.

The petrol filling station, just off the Highway. Ours was the only vehicle on the forecourt.

As we approached distance marker '0', I sadly realised that it merely denoted the end of the Highway. We were still a good way from our destination and, although we were still travelling on a dual carriageway, because of all the local traffic, our speed had reduced. I thought that we were near Bago and, after a few minutes, I had confirmation. The nearer we got to Yangon, the worse the traffic became. Our driver attempted some diversions but it seemed that these alternative routes were known to all the other drivers.

I'd agreed with the guide that, on the way to the Park Royal Hotel where I was to spend the night, we'd stop at the Taw Win Centre on Pyay Road. This would allow me to return to the Tab Book Centre where, on my previous visit, I'd purchased some interesting books written in English on Burmese History. That earlier visit is described here. Eventually, we reached the Taw Win Centre and, once we'd located the bookshop, I spent a hectic time going through the bookshelves and selecting a number of books for purchase. We then made somewhat better time on the last part of the journey to the Park Royal Hotel. I released my guide and driver for the day, arranging the final transfer from the hotel to the airport on the following morning.

I'd intended to just relax in the hotel but, after a shower and a change of clothes, I thought it a pity not to find out a little more about the railway - Yangon Central Station was only ten minutes walk away and I had a tantalising view of the station buildings from my room.


The view of the gilded towers of Yangon Central Station from the
Park Royal Hotel.

So I walked to the station, took some more pictures around the station to pore over on my return and decided to walk east a little way on the road parallel to the railway on the north side. The road quickly deteriorated into a track between a number of fairly humble wooden buildings. I was definitely "on the wrong side of the tracks". Most of the buildings had rusting, corrugated galvanised iron roofs, but at least one (in need of repair) was tiled.

Roof tiles on a dwelling near Yangon Central station.

I was intrigued, because the design was very similar to tiles I'd seen in Myanma Railway Museum the day before.

Tiles exhibited in Myanma Railway Museum.

The track continued, weaving between wooden homes before coming to an abrupt stop at a brick wall dividing the houses from the railway. A home-made bamboo ladder was leaned against the wall indicating that it was no 'dead-end' to the locals.

View of the railway from the 'dead-end'.

There was no ladder on the railway side of the wall so, although I could see the footpath worn in the grass by passing feet, I decided it might be unwise to risk injury on the evening before I flew home. I back-tracked and continued east on a more major road, before turning right to take pictures from the bridge where the road crossed over the railway.

Then I continued east on the south side of the railway along the main road to Pazundaung, with multi-storey buildings on both sides of the road providing commercial premises on the ground floor and apartments above. It took me a few moments to realise the function of the many thin ropes which dangled from the upper stories, necessitating frequent avoiding action on my part. Each rope was weighted with a bulldog clip or, in one case, a small moulded plastic basket. Of course! They were "letter boxes" allowing residents to collect mail or other small deliveries without the tiresome necessity of descending perhaps seven floors and then climbing up again.


Ingenious letter boxes.

Along this road, part of the width of the pavement had been built-up a foot or more above the road, forming a causeway. Here, the intention was clear - the road was clearly subject to periodic flooding and the causeway gave some protection to ground floor premises.

Turning left off the road, I came to the footbridge crossing the railway at Pazundaung. The station buildings are actially located on the footbridge. The bridge provided a good vantage point for a few more photographs. By this time, I didn't relish the walk back to my hotel, so I decided to purchase a ticket and return by train (giving more photographic opportunities). The booking clerk called for the stationmaster who had quite good English. Of course, I had to pay one U.S. Dollar for a 'Foreigner Ticket' to travel just one stop - the same fare would have taken me all round the Circle Line!

I was soon back at Yangon Central Station where I'd just enough energy to take a few more pictures. The signalmen at the Power Box were clearly intrigued by a European woman taking photographs and they all posed on the balcony.

Yangon Central Power Signal Box. All the signalmen came onto the balcony to have their picture taken.

And so the holiday was almost over. The following morning, I was to fly by Thai to Bangkok, change, and make the long flight back to London. Perhaps not a trip to everybody's taste but, for me, another wonderful set of experiences.

My Pictures

Aureum Palace Hotel, Naypyitaw.
Myanmar's Highway.
Park Royal Hotel, Yangon.
Yangon (2013).
Yangon Central Station.
Pazundaung Station.
By train: Pazundaung - Yangon.

An Evening in Napyidaw

Events of Thursday Evening 21st February 2013

We'd driven down from Mandalay that morning and spent the afternoon looking for, and finally looking at, the railway museum, as described here. By the time we arrived at the hotel, I was shattered and envisaged a quiet evening.

Entrance to the Lobby at the Aureum Palace Hotel, Napyitaw.

But my guide asked if I wanted to visit the Uppatasanti Pagoda that evening. This was the huge Golden Pagoda I'd seen from a distance as we'd driven around Napyidaw earlier. I try to work on the basis of "I may not pass this way again" and so I agreed to be picked up in a couple of hours, after I'd had a shower and changed and, hopefully, revived a little. The evening trip was a great success.

Napyidaw probably qualifies as the oddest city I've visited. Construction didn't start until 2002 and will probably continue for some time. Four years ago, the population was said to be 900,000 but, from my experiences driving around the deserted roads in the afternoon, it is a very carefully-hidden 900,000.

It was already dark when we left my hotel by car to drive to the Uppatasanti Pagoda. A number of the traffic roundabouts we traversed had strings of coloured fairylights and the artistic features on the central islands were floodlit. It was all a bit reminiscent of Blackpool and I found it rather attractive. Soon, I spotted the Pagoda, massive and floodlit. As we got nearer, we actually started picking up traffic - not enough to slow us down but much heavier than anything I'd seen during the day. We parked near the Pagoda and joined the pedestrians, mainly young people, moving to and from the Pagoda. Hundreds upon hundreds of people were happily milling around in the warm evening and the atmosphere was very inviting. The air was filled with the voice of a monk, intoning from the Buddhist scriptures using a public address system, adding to the sense of occasion.

Construction of the Pagoda was started in 2006 and completed in 2009. I expected to be appalled by this 'modern upstart' of a Pagoda but ended up being charmed. The Uppatasanti Pagoda is built on a large, square plinth and is approached by broad steps or, on one side, a lift. It would be impressive at any time but, floodlit at night, the effect is stunning. The size and shape of the Pagoda is based on the revered Shwedagon in Yangon but at least this young Pagoda has the good grace to be a few inches shorter.

The approach to the Pagoda from the lift tower.

Pagodas of this design are normally solid but the Uppatasanti Pagoda has four entrances leading to a huge, bell-shaped cathedral-like space. The walls are decorated with deep-relief marble carvings illustrating events from the Buddhist scriptures. Four elaborately-decorated shrines surround a central, square core and the soaring ceiling is a riot of complicated patterns and Buddhist writings in gold on a green background.

Four shrines surround a central, square core inside the Uppatasanti Pagoda.

The guide and I walked around the terrace outside the Pagoda, where there are separate shrines for each of the astrological birth-signs, before descending to ground level using one of the broad stairways.

Here, we struck the only off-note of the evening. Near the Pagoda, there's a large open-sided building where they keep the White Elephants. White (or, more accurately, albino) elephants exist but are rare. In Burma, historically they are "regarded as a sign that the monarch reigned with justice and power, and that the kingdom was blessed with peace and prosperity" (Wikipedia article). Napyidaw has its own white elephants (you'd say 'pink' rather than 'white', looking at them) being stared at all day by visitors to the Pagoda.

One of the Napyidaw white elephants.

The elephants were on a hard floor sparsely covered with straw, tethered and at least one was engaging in repetitive displacement activity which is usually a sign of stress, so I didn't approve. Elephants are magnificent beasts and I believe a partnership with man is possible. In Burma, I've twice seen demonstrations by logging elephants where I was sure the elephants were willing participants (Burma 2010 and Burma 2012). In Thailand, I spent a day with an elephant without having reservations (Thailand 2008). Then, on safari in 2012, I saw elephants in the wild (Botswana 2012) so I'm afraid the elephants of Napyidaw worried me.

After an interesting evening, I was returned to my hotel. I had a simple meal in the splendid restaurant before getting to bed. The next day, I had to be up fairly early for our road trip back to Yangon.

The restaurant at the Aureum Palace Hotel.

References

Naypyidaw (Wikipedia).
Uppatasanti Pagoda (Wikipedia).

Related Posts in this Blog

Napyidaw.

My Pictures

Aureum Palace Hotel, Naypyitaw.
Uppatasanti Pagoda, Napyidaw

Lunar New Year Preparations at Than's Home in Vietnam

The Lunar New Year (often called the 'Chinese New Year') is a very important festival in Vietnam. My visit to Vietnam in 2013 coincided with preparations for that festival which seemed to become increasingly frantic as the date approached. Than had been my informative guide for the segment of my trip from Hoi An to Hue. The whole trip (including visits to Western Australia and Burma) is described in a series of posts here.

On 3rd February, 2013, at the end of the Hue segment, the driver was to transfer me to Hue Airport for the evening flight to Hanoi . However, before leaving for the airport, Than had invited me to his home, where (like all Vietnamese) they were getting ready to celebrate the approaching New Year with a special meal. I met Than's wife, their young son Robbie, Than's Mother and Father and other members of the family.

Robbie with his Mother and Grandmother.

Everybody was engaged in preparations for a special meal that evening, to be attended by family and friends. The celebratory feast was first set up on two tables in the front yard but after a while it started to rain, so everything had to be hurriedly brought back into the house.


The celebratory feast was first set up in the front yard, before rain forced a hurried removal back into the house.

I was made very welcome and, although I could not stay for the meal itself, they insisted that I took a bowl of the delicious soup before leaving for my flight.

My Pictures

Than's Home in Hue.

Manchester Piccadilly Station - Behind the Scenes

Manchester Piccadilly, showing the restored trainshed and a 'Virgin' Pendolino.

On Tuesday, 12th March 2013, I joined a group from the Museum of Science and Industry in Manchester for a tour 'behind the scenes' at Manchester Piccadilly Station. This had been arranged by Adrian Bailey, a regular volunteer on the railway at the Museum having retired from the 'Big Railway'. Thanks go to Adrian and the Network Rail staff we met for a most interesting evening.

We met just after 6.00 p.m. on the Concourse, near the Network Rail Reception. Before the tour could start, we each had to provide a 'Photo I.D.' to the receptionist who entered our details onto the computer system and took a photograph. Seventeen individual passes were then printed, fitted into a holder and issued. Security is taken very seriously.



Once we all had our passes, we were welcomed by the Station Manager and Duty Station Manager. After a brief introduction, we moved upstairs to the station control room.

Announcer's Room

The Announcer's Room.

The station control room is often called the Announcer's Room but its duties are much broader and, in the event of an incident, it takes command of all actions. Train announcements are now issued by a computerised system. All possible announcements are pre-recorded, stored digitally and then issued automatically according to the timetable, unless the operator intervenes on his computer screen as is frequently necessary. The operator not only has access to displays showing the identity, location (and lateness) of all trains in the immediate area but also further away. The operator can examine in detail the planned and actual timing of any train throughout its journey. The Station Manager was proud of the fact that the announcements are recorded not by a professional actor but by a lady Network Rail employee from the offices with a suitable voice. The system also controls the large number of PIDs (Passenger Information Displays) around the station.

A large station like Manchester Piccadilly (whose 14 platforms handle more movements daily than Euston with 18 platforms) is a potential terrorist target. The whole station is searched for suspicious packages every hour. The effectiveness of these searches is tested periodically by the Department for Transport, who place test 'suspicious packages' on the station for the staff to find. Manchester Piccadilly has a good record for promptly locating such test packages.

Closed Circuit Television plays an important part in keeping passengers safe. The station has over 400 colour cameras, all available on the various monitors in the Announcer's Room. The smaller monitors normally cycle through a number of cameras. The whole system is controlled from computer screens which can display scale plans of each area showing the location and identity of the cameras.

Comprehensive Fire Detection systems are installed throughout the station area. In the event of an alarm, the first action is to detail a member of staff to investigate. Evacuation only occurs after a confirmed alarm or multiple alarms. Again, computer screens display scale plans of each area showing the location, identity and status of detectors.

The Announcer's Room also controls the staff who provide assistance to disabled or elderly passengers.

Manchester Piccadilly Undercroft

The Trainsheds covering the platforms and the Undercroft on which they're built are listed structures and efforts have been made to retain as much as possible. In contrast, the concourse, offices and retail outlets are very modern. We descended to the Undercroft from the Announcer's Room via modern, grey-painted steel stairs.


View showing original columns supporting the Trainshed above and access road for delivery vehicles.

In areas built using brick arches, the original arches have been restored and then modified for their present uses with blockwork. The Undercroft has allowed a secure road network to be created allowing the retail outlets to receive deliveries by road and hold the stock in individual store rooms underground. As required, stock is taken to the shops by wheeled crates, minimising disruption in public areas. The undercroft is a rabbit warren of roads, car parks and passages and, by the time we had finished, I was thoroughly disorientated. We left through a pair of doors directly onto Piccadilly 'Metrolink' tram station, and I felt a little like the rabbit emerging from the hole in 'Alice in Wonderland'. We walked back to the concourse of the main station and took a non-public lift up to the third floor.

Manchester Piccadilly Signalling Control Centre

Manchester Piccadilly Signalling Control Centre.

A huge illuminated display of the area controlled dominates the room. The control method is 'NX' ('eNtrance-eXit') but, whereas a 'classic' control panel would combine the indications and control pushbuttons in a single track diagram at which the signallers worked, at Manchester all indications are presented on a very large, vertical illuminated track diagram of the area with the control pushbuttons grouped onto five smaller non-illuminated track diagrams, one for each of the five control zones. These pushbutton panels are arranged horizontally in front of the five signallers, allowing the signaller to work whilst seated, if preferred. Each signaller has a desk immediately to their left, with a computer screen enabling a wide range of data to be readily accessed. Presumably the separation of the pushbuttons from the illuminated diagram was intended to make the signaller's task less strenuous - a large 'classic' 'NX' panel involves a lot of walking up and down and reaching up to access pushbuttons as required.

The pushbutton panel controlling Manchester Piccadilly station area.

Of course, there are plenty of other computer screens for various purposes. Each signaller has a touch-screen telephone concentrator (the screen top right in the picture above).

Another view of Manchester Piccadilly Signalling Control Centre.

One further extension to the area controlled by the Signalling Control Centre is in hand. The Atherton Line to Wigan Wallgate will be controlled from Piccadilly, abolishing existing boxes at Crow's Nest Junction, Atherton Goods Yard and Walkden. By complete co-incidence, I'd travelled that line from Wigan Wallgate earlier in the day to reach Manchester. Display screens at the Shift Manager's desk were displaying the future extension.

Display of the Atherton Line, which will become part of the area controlled.

References

Manchester Piccadilly (Wikipedia).
Manchester Piccadilly (Network Rail).

My Pictures

Manchester Piccadilly Announcer's Room.
Manchester Piccadilly Undercroft.
Manchester Piccadilly Signalling Control Centre.
Manchester Area Rail.