Events of Tuesday 27th November 2012
Interlude on Gozo
On Tuesday, we made a trip by car to the island of Gozo. On the way to the ferryport, Dean detoured to Anchor Bay, where the set constructed for the 'Popeye' film of 1980 remains as a Theme Park. There's more information on the 'Popeye Village' website (look for the 'stop sound' button on the top left of the screen to silence the irritating singing). The village certainly looked the part, nestling against the cliffs.
We carried on towards the ferryport. Major road improvements are underway and a completely new ferryport is being used whilst still under construction. This is another project being supported by European Union funding.
A modern Ro-Ro ferry was just arriving from Gozo and, within a few minutes, the hinging bow section had been raised, the loading ramp 'unfolded' and foot passengers and vehicles were streaming off.
We were in a queue of vehicles waiting to board and, looking at the length of the queue and the capacity of the car deck, it was clear we'd have no problem boarding. We parked the car and made our way up to the main deck. Ann settled here and Dean and I prowled the ferry independently looking for photographic opportunities.
Our ferry was the "Melita", built in 2002 by Malta Shipbuilding Company Limited as their 'HULL-180'. The ferry is basically double-ended, with a hinging bow section at each end and two bridges for control. So we were able to depart with the minimum of fuss, as what had been the 'stern' on arrival became the 'bow' for our crossing to Gozo and the helmsman moved to what was now the 'Forward' bridge. I noticed that the vessel wasn't completely symmetrical as an anchor was only provided on one of the two ends.
We left the dock, rounded the breakwater and set off across a very calm Mediterranean under a hot sun. After about ten minutes sailing, we passed a similar ferry, the "Ta' Pinu" heading away from Gozo.
Another ten minutes saw us approaching the dock at Mgarr Harbour and before long we were driving onto Gozo, still not having paid. We decided (correctly) that they now collect fares on the return journey. Dean drove to the major town, Victoria (also called Rabat) and parked near Pjazza Indipendenza where there was a small tourist market. Ann had a drink at an open-air cafe whilst Dean and I went exploring the Cittadella 'the old fortified city of the Island of Gozo'. It's built on high ground surrounded by tall walls. Like many of the old parts of the mainland, the Cittadella is being restored by grant money but, in this case, the grant is supplied by Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway through the EEA Financial Mechanism administered by EEA Grants and the Ministry for Gozo. Within the Citadel, there's a Cathedral with a 17th-century Baroque facade, Courts of Justice and Armoury together with Museums of Folklore, Natural Science and Archaeology.
We'd only time to visit a small museum dedicated to the (rather improbable) co-operation agreements between Gozo and Japan and Gozo and China (why did I think of the film 'The Mouse that Roared'?). Climbing the Battlements gave splendid views across Gozo in all directions. Noticeable is the way the undulating land has been terraced to assist crop cultivation and the fact that the landscape is dotted with fairly grand, domed churches.
We then drove to Gozo's Craft Village at Ta' Dbiegi, in the west of the island near Gharb. Unlike the mainland's converted Nissen Huts, Ta' Dbiegi is purpose-built with a number of stone buildings.
A short drive took us to Dwejra Point, a popular tourist destination because of nearby free-standing Fungus Rock, the Azure Window and the Inland Sea.
The Azure Window is a rock in the sea still linked to the main cliffs by a 'bridge' of stone. Despite the 'DANGER' signs, quite a few people were climbing up and crossing the 'bridge', so Dean aqnd I did likewise.
The Marketing Department just about got away with 'The Azure Window' but I think they rather oversold the 'Inland Sea' which is a pool, almost completely surrounded by boathouses and dwellings built in stone, separated from the sea by massive cliffs. A tunnel pierces the cliffs joining the Inland Sea to the Mediterranean.
We next went to Ta' Pinu Church, which seemed a very elaborate building for such a rural area.
This became a place of pilgrimage following accounts of Our Lady speaking to a local woman where people can give thanks for blessings received or ask for help. Hundreds of framed testimonials are displayed. The Church (a minor Basiiica) is now called Ta' Pinu National Shrine, according to its website here.
Returning to Victoria, we passed a preserved section of aqueduct, now isolated in a field. Dean drove to the ferryport at Mgarr by a circuitous route, allowing us to see a little more of the island. A toll booth collected the fare and we were immediately waved onto a waiting ferry - the 'Melta' again. By the time we'd parked on the car deck and made our way onto the main deck, the ferry had left the dock for the twenty minute trip to the mainland. Since the morning, a wind had developed and the sea was 'livelier'.
By the time we were back on the mainland, it was fairly dark. There remained only a fairly short journey back to Golden Bay at the end of a splendid, but tiring day.
Photographs:
Malta.
[Revised 28-Nov-2012}
