Tuesday 8th September 2009
The Phobjikha Valley is at an elevation of 2,900 metres and the flora is Alpine. Rice cannot grow so potatoes are the main cash crop. It's a generally poor agrarian community although some Bhutanese maintain second homes here because of the beauty and peace.
I slept well and awoke at 5.00 a.m. The sky was already getting light and by the time I’d dressed, the sun was out and it was a wonderful morning. There were still clouds hanging over parts of the valley. Later in the morning, there was intermittent rain but nothing too harsh until around lunchtime.
The Phobjikha Valley is one of the locations where the Black-necked Cranes winter. These birds have a great spiritual significance for the local people and when electrification using overhead lines was mooted, there were fears that the eagerly-awaited arrival of these migrants would be effected. Eventually, the Government agreed to use buried cables and this work is now in progress but, at present, homes are either without electrical power or provided with limited power from solar arrays.
After a leisurely breakfast, the first visit was to Gangtey Goemba. Electricians were working at installing outside electric lights in anticipation of the arrival of mains electricity. The monastery is old and extensive renovations have been necessary recently because of beetle infestation in the ancient timbers. This work is ongoing and we saw wood carvers and painters at work. We were not able to visit the main assembly hall because examinations were in progress and the caretaker was one of those being examined. In contrast to the imposing grandeur of the main buildings, the kitchen where the monks' food is prepared was a series of rather ramshackle wooden buildings outside the main perimeter. My monastery pictures.
There’s a small village immediately outside the monastery and Tashi and I took a walk looking at the variations in style and speaking to some of the residents. We met the ‘Farmtrac’ tractor and trailer we’d seen the day before, continuing its task of bringing out the potatoes for shipment. We exchanged friendly waves with the tractor driver and his helpers. Many of these potatoes are exported by lorry to India. Pictures of Gangtey Village.
Tashi and I next set off on the 4km-long Gangtey Nature Trail. This is an easy trail, passing through various environments, pastureland with cows grazing, muddy tracks churned up by tractors where smallholders eke out an existence, forests of Blue Pine, marshland. Finally we crossed the meandering river where the Black-necked Cranes winter to meet our car by the local school. As we approached, the bell rang for the end of morning school and children began to play or walk home for a meal.
By now, the rain was pouring down so I was glad to get back into the car. However, we’d not gone far before we stopped and Tashi invited me to take a walk up a rather muddy track by some houses, where he showed me a hot stone bath-house with its wooden tub and outside fireplace for heating the stones. A little further on, we reached our destination – a small weaving shed where four young women were engaged in various processes of carpet weaving. Another short journey took us to the Black-necked Crane Information Centre, a modern, octagonal building. In addition to various displays about the bird, there is a large observation lounge overlooking the valley, equipped with powerful field glasses. Pictures along the nature trail.
It was still raining as we returned to the Lodge for lunch and it looked as if my planned horse ride for the afternoon would be cancelled. In the event, just after 2.00 p.m. the weather cleared and they said the ride could go ahead, but along public roads rather than cross-country.
A local horsewoman in national dress teamed with blue gumboots was waiting with a handsome young horse. The horse was equipped with a delicate wooden frame and a couple of blankets which apparently is the Bhutanese saddle. The stirrups were loops of rope. There should be two small loops of rope to hang on to at the front of the saddle but one was broken so I reached behind to find the strap going around the rear of the horse. It was clear the horse was going to be led by the woman so it would be a very gentle ride. Tashi walked alongside in case of difficulties. Despite my doubts, I found the horse's gait quite comfortable and soon found the confidence to hold on with one hand, using the other to operate the camera or wave at the locals who seemed delighted at this unexpected entertainment. I’d have carried on all afternoon but Karma was waiting with the car at the primary school so we stopped there and I was whisked back to the comfort of the Lodge. Pictures of the horse ride.
I had the rest of the day for work on the computer, dinner, packing and contemplation of this remarkable place. My initial appelation of ‘Land of Dreams’ still seems valid. I’m clearly not the only person to feel like this, because the ‘Lonely Planet’ introduction talks about ‘a way of life you thought had been swept away or that you’d imagined’. The dramatic scenery seems destined to be a location for a ‘Sword and Sorcery’ movie or a ‘Lord of the Rings’ tale. How can a country of 700,000 people sustain twenty huge Dzongs with their elaborate decoration and innumerable temples and religious structures? Bhutanese Nationals are expected to wear national dress and adopt the appropriate scarf when entering a Dzong. There is great respect the two (!) kings and religious beliefs are at the core of their day-to-day existence. Everything seems a bewildering mixture of Myth, Magic and Mahayana Buddhism. It’s hard for a Westerner to believe that what you see is real but it has a bewitching charm.
The Amankora Lodges have been called ‘Uber Luxury’ and you’re cosseted beyond belief from the moment you enter making rational judgements about the country even harder. So, my conclusion about Bhutan? You would have to spend a lifetime here to understand the country, but I like it.
