Tuesday, 6-Feb-2007:
I took my travel agent's advice on a hotel in Ushuaia, so we have about 5 miles to go out of town to get to the Tolkeyen. In the last 25 years Ushuaia has achieved incredible growth, from a population of a few thousand up to around 85 thousand. The Argentinian Government has introduced various inducements to bring people here. Tourism is a major part of the local economy. To the West, there's a National Park, which extends to the border with Chile.
As we leave the town, we pass through the posh area of Ushuaia with quite large wooden-clad houses which look quite attractive. The weather is very changeable here, so heating is important. Argentina has its own oil and gas supplies and the Government has put in a pipeline, 200 km long I think, to bring gas to Ushuaia. We pass through rather inhospitable-looking scrub land and come to a small township, where a drive leads us to the Tolkeyen Hotel.
The hotel is single storey, log-clad lodge-style, very spacious and nice and warm. My room is, I suspect, the best in the place, with a bay window commanding splendid views of the Beagle Channel. I decide to have dinner in the restaurant, nice high gable roof, stone floor. Although there are a fair few people already there (a German party), service is prompt and attentive. I have cream of asparagus soup, with crusty bread just right, codfish (small fillets in a light sauce with a boiled potato - excellent) and an ice cream to finish. Replete, I return to my room, bathe in the whirlpool bath, fall into the large bed and sleep soundly.
Wednesday, 7-Feb-2007:
There's an excellent buffet breakfast in the dining room looking across the Beagle Channel to the snow-covered mountains on the other side, which are part of Chile. I walk down to the foreshore to take in the view. On the landward side there are also snow-covered mountains. There's a light drizzle and a rainbow is forming. All sorts of birds are flying aound the water line, foraging for food. It truly is a magical spot. This unlikely, remote spot is the first place I've managed to send e-mail via the hotel's Wi-Fi. Sadly, I can't post a blog. Dunno why.
The hotel has a free shuttle bus into Ushuaia a few times a day. I catch the 9.00am (I'm the only passenger) and he drops me on the waterfront. The main area 'Centro' extends about 15 blocks along the waterfront and four blocks inland on land which rises up steeply. The land agents in Ushuaia are Rumbo Sur (www.rumbosur.com.ar/. I go to the Rumbo Sur booking office to find out more about embarkation on my Antarctic Cruise, but the right people don't seem to be there. I also enquire about the narrow gauge 'Tren Turistico' steam train which starts a few miles out of town and takes people to the national park. I can't really get answers, so I find out where the taxi rank is and get a taxi up to the railway.
Well, the morning trains have gone but I make contact with their charming lady commercial manager, Natalia Assandri, and she introduces me to (I think) the stationmaster and their workshop manager, Hugo del Valle, who provides a tour of the workshop facilities, during which I meet one of the drivers. The whole operation is very impressive. Before I get a taxi back to Ushuaia, they offer me a footplate ride if I can get to them on the day I return after the cruise. I'll certainly try! Nice people. See their website www.trendelfindelmundo.com.ar.
Back in Ushuaia, I've more time to look around. The harbour is one straight jetty with moorings on both sides plus provision for the large day-trip boats. Two large cruise ships on one side of the jetty mask the view of my ship 'Antarctic Dream' which I spotted berthed on my way in by taxi.There are lots of tourist shops, lots of tourists - Americans, Europeans, not many Japanese. Another taxi then took me back to the hotel, ready to be picked with my luggage and taken to the Albatros Hotel near the harbour for check-in to the cruise. There was then an enforced wait of nearly 2 hours before joining the coach for the short journey to the ship. Cynically, I assumed that this was to encourage you to spend money in the hotel restaurant and bar. I didn't - I passed the time in the town.
In Buenos Aires, people seemed predominantly fair skinned and very European looking, many with blonde hair. But in Ushuaia, the dark-skinned look of South America is commoner. There is an Aboriginal Museum devoted to the Yamana people but, with limited time, I opt instead for the Maritime Museum. This is situated next to the present Navy base in the former prison, the Presidio. Although parts of this large building are distictly run down, an awful lot of trouble has been taken in the staging of the artefacts and I found it charming. Six wings of cell blocks radiate from the centre, some of which are used for displays. There are some marvellous ship models, many by an award-winning model-maker whose workshop has also been preserved here.The last surviving locomotive and coach from the original prison railway have also been preserved, sadly outside but at least available for inspection. One wing of cells is unrestored, showing all the original architectural features. The most modernised wing is now an art gallery. After a fascinating, if rather hurried tour, I make my way back to the Albatros Hotel where a coach is waiting.
Finally, once all the stragglers have arrived, we drive in the rain to the harbour. We get off the coach for hand baggage X-ray, get back on the coach to drive along the jetty and, finally, approach our home for the next 11 days, 'Atlantic Dream'.
Click for my pictures of Ushuaia
Click for pictures of the original Prison Railway vehicles and the modern 'Tren Tourstico'
