Tuesday, 20-Feb-2007: This is the quick version. Arrived safely in Auckland, taxi to hotel but room not available for hours (even for money - they're fully booked). Buy railway ticket and make a round trip on the Eastern Line to Papakura. Railway web site http://www.maxx.co.nz/ refers. Go to ferry and make round trip to Bermondsey. Catch a 'bus up to Museum and have a really excellent breakfast there, then spend an hour or so in the splendid museum. Back to hotel - magnificent room now available. Shower, then go and check out the Western Line which goes to Waitakere. Then the trains stop 'cos a contractor has cut through a signal cable. Start to panic since Waitakere is tiny and miles from anywhere. After an hour or so, train arrives and the charming driver of the diesel multiple unit leaves the door to the cab open, so I can take photographs. When stationary, we chat about railway things. Possible disaster turns to triumph! Off to Perth tomorrow afternoon.
Additions Thursday, 22-Feb-2007:
The overnight flight from Santiago was due in 04:15, and it was on time. The airport was so quiet, I got through immigration very quickly. The was a little wait in the deserted baggage hall for the luggage, but it came through safely. Customs and quarantine didn't take long and soon I was outside, looking for a taxi. At that time of day, the drive to the hotel didn't take long. So, before 5:00 am, I was in the Heritage being told my room wouldn't be available 'till midday. Since every room was taken, even offering to pay extra didn't help. They gave me a pot of tea in the lobby and after a reasonable wash and a change, I was fully revived and set off to see what I could do in the city.
I wanted to try out the suburban railway system, so I went to the newish terminal station, Britomart, and caught the next train out, just before 5:30 and still dark. The station ticket office doesn't open until 7:30 am, but you can buy tickets on the train. There's only about six people on this early train, so the friendly Maori lady guard has time to discuss the ticket options. I settle for a 14 dollar bus/train/ferry day ticket, which turned out to be excellent value. The train was going to Papakura, on the line to the South and Wellington and the journey took around 50 minutes, including a number of stops. By now, it was getting light (although none too warm), so I had a walk round the suburban town centre. Buildings are fairly modern and undistinguished plus the inevitable large supermarket open 24/7. When I get back to the station, there's a lot more activity with people arriving to go to work or school and three trains are waiting to depart. I catch the second train and, although I get a seat, people getting on at each stop take the numbers up to 'crush loading' conditions.
When we arrive back in the city, I decide to see if my ticket really does work on the ferries. Britomart station is surrounded with bus stops on various routes and the ferry terminal is less than five minutes walk, so multi-modal journeys are quite practical.
I choose Bermondsey as a destination, because I'm sure it'll be nothing like the Bermondsey I know. Because I'm going 'against the flow' of commuters coming into Auckland, I'm the only passenger on a catamaran which can carry perhaps 150 people. Then, there are three crew. A ten-minute sail across the harbour takes us to the landing stage at Bermondsey where there are around 30 commuters waiting to go to work. I explore for half an hour or so. The day's starting to warm up and I watch some people fishing from the jetty. An old Maori woman isn't using a rod - she's just hand-casting her line. There's a huge marina here, with the sorts of businesses to support boating, like chandlery. As you leave the marina, you come to an extensive residential area. All detached houses, gardens not as large as I expected, obviously well looked after but a bit bland for my taste. I return to the landing stage and catch the next ferry back to Auckland. It really is delightful to be on the water in such a beautiful location.
There is a circular bus, called The Link, that runs round the city. It's particularly aimed at tourists, but a lot of locals use it, too. I take this service to the museum stop which is nowhere near the museum. In fact, I and about four others aiming for the museum have a little trouble interpreting the brief instructions given by the bus driver. A final, stiff climb takes us to the commanding, hill-top position occupied by the huge classical style building. The new Grand Atrium was only opened a couple of months ago. Within the confines of a building with heritage status, Noel Lane has constructed a multi-story bowl of Fijian Kauri wood. By this time, I was starting to flag a little, so I decided to stop for an all-day breakfast and pot of tea at the Atrium Restaurant. The food was nicely presented and absolutely delicious. Thus fortified, I tackled the museum exhibits, spread over three floors. In general, I was very impressed. The top floor forms New Zealand's National War Memorial and such exhibits as are on this floor relate to the various wars in which New Zealand has participated. I found that I rather approved. See Museum web site.
Another bus returned me to the city centre and, on arriving back at the hotel I was initially disappointed to find that my room was still not available. But all was forgiven at one o'clock when I got the key, because they'd upgraded me to a suite with a large lounge, separate bedroom and bathroom with both bath and generously-sized shower cubicle.
