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Introduction
It always seemed daft to me that the U.K. were involved in the Channel Tunnel Project (completed 1993), built a posh new London terminus at Waterloo International (opened 1994), acquired a fleet of French-designed high speed trains capable of speeds of 186 m.p.h. called TMST (Trans-Manche Super Train) and then ran these new trains for years on ancient third-rail electrified lines already congested with traffic. The complex new trains operated by Eurostar were introduced in 1993 and classified Class 373 in the UK. They could operate from 750v d.c. third-rail in England or from a number of overhead a.c. voltages. Various control systems were fitted including signalling systems TVM and KVB for use in the Channel Tunnel and in Continental Europe but only AWS was initially required to run on conventional lines in the U.K.
Class 373
The fleet of Class 373 was initially split into two types - 'Three Capitals' (to handle London-Paris and London-Brussels services) and 'North of London' (to deal with proposed feeder services within the U.K.). Trial running North of London was not encouraging - the existing electrified routes had difficulties supplying the new power-hungry trains and interference with signalling systems was problematic. As a stop-gap, conventional feeder trains, not available to ordinary passengers, were run to Waterloo to connect with services through the Channel Tunnel. I once managed to 'hitch' a ride from Wolverhampton to Birmingham on one of these restricted services from Manchester when the normal service was disrupted and I knew the Train Guard. This was a locomotive-hauled train with the coaches retro-fitted with central door locking. Load factors were disappointing on these feeder services, which were soon discontinued.
The enterprising GNER franchise leased some of the spare 'North of London' sets and, following the technical approval phase, managed to operate a service between King's Cross and, I think, York. At least some of the GNER sets were re-painted in dark blue, which suited them very well.
Raising speed from the Channel Tunnel to London
The Channel Tunnel Rail Link, also called 'High Speed 1' as the U.K's first high-speed line linking the Channel Tunnel to London, was built in two sections. The first section, opened in 2003, allowed high speed running at up to 186 m.p.h. between the Channel Tunnel and the Southfleet Junction (a little south of Gravesend) using the TVM signalling system. After an interchange section to Fawkham Junction (on the existing Swanley to Rochester lone) Eurostar trains then continued to Waterloo International station in London on third-rail d.c. electrified lines. In 2007 the second section of 'High Speed 1' was completed from Southfleet Junction to St. Pancras International, allowing maximum speeds of 140 m.p.h. The existing St. Pancras station required complete re-furbishment and a new station was built at the north end of the site to handle domestic trains and the extreme length of the International trains. Waterloo International became redundant after less than 14 years use. Although Waterloo International is slowly finding new uses, its design is not well-suited to handling domestic services. Incongruously, for a time a dramatisation of 'The Railway Children' was successfully staged in the International Platforms. In addition, the purpose-built North Pole International Depot which had serviced the Class 373 since their introduction had a rather short initial working life. It was not conveniently situated for providing trains to the new terminus at St. Pancras International so a new maintenance depot at Temple Mills replaced the original one at North Pole.
The Introduction of TPWS
Accidents such as Southall and Ladbroke Grove had focused attention on the limitations of the Automatic Warning System (AWS) used in Britain. It was not (nor intended to be) an Automatic Train Protection (ATP) system, since it could be over-ridden by the driver. Various schemes were afoot in Europe but, in an attempt to plot a course that was both affordable and achievable in a reasonable time-frame, the Joint Enquiry into Train Protection Schemes (available here concluded that a plan to supplement AWS with a Train Protection and Warning System (TPWS) should be implemented. All locomotives and multiple units, including Class 373, had to be fitted with TPWS in addition to AWS. There's an RSSB publication about these systems here.
Test Train on 6th October 2005
When I was writing about a trip on the Channel Tunnel Rail Link in early 2017 (Channel Tunnel Rail Link), I was reminded of an earlier trip on a Class 373 Test Train in 2005 which I have described below. The following is very much an historical account: since I became involved in the design and validation of some of the new equipment for Class 373 in 2005, so much has changed. I had one opportunity to travel on a special Class 373 Test Train from North Pole to King's Cross then to Grantham and return when I assisted with the tests being carried out. Arriving by road with our test equipment at North Pole, we found depot security quite tight but eventually lugged our gear onto the waiting train. Leaving North Pole International Depot we had to take an intriguing route across North London to King's Cross before we could start the proper test run to Grantham. We were using a recording multi-channel oscilloscope to collect data about the response of various sensors at different speeds.
North Pole International Depot to King's Cross
The Depot had four Reception Sidings (actually bi-directional) diverging from the Down West London Line and one Departure line (also bi-directional) which passed under the West London Line and trailed into the Up West London Line at North Pole Junction. Whilst these connections were convenient for getting to and from Waterloo, our train needed to head in the opposite direction to get to the East Coast Main Line. Having driven the train out of the Depot and south of North Pole Junction, the driver had to change ends before continuing. Whilst we made our way to King's Cross, I was involved in helping to set up and check the test equipment located just behind the 'active cab', so I couldn't pay much attention to our interesting route on the way out. We crossed over the Great Western Main Line before turning left at Mitre Bridge Junction, crossed over the West Coast Main Line at Willesden Junction High Level, crossed over the Midland Main Line at West Hampstead, turned right at Gospel Oak to join the North London Line at Camden Road. Here, we took the single North London Incline and joined the Down Slow of the East Coast Main Line, continuing to Finsbury Park where the driver had to change ends again. We set off and crossed to the Up Slow for the short journey to King's Cross. Now the equipment was set up and we were in the 'back cab', I was able to take a few pictures of the rain-swept railway.
View from back cab of 373 passing Holloway Jns. on Up Slow en-route to King's Cross. Emirates Stadium on right.
At Holloway Junctions, we were switched to the Up Fast and then the Up Slow passed over us on a flyover, just north of Copenhagen Tunnels. This arrangement transposes the four running lines from Up Slow, Up Fast, Down Fast, Down Slow to Up Fast, Down Fast, Up Slow, Down Slow. This gets the stopping trains using the Slow Lines onto the west side of King's Cross, handy for Suburban platforms 9, 10 and 11. There were formerly three double-track bores forming the Copenhagen Tunnels but the East Bore is now disused. South of Copenhagen Tunnels, all four running lines become reversible and we were switched to the adjacent line which forms the Down Fast further north but is designated 'Number 1 Fast' here. I spotted the North London Incline we'd used earlier to access the East Coast Main Line before we were plunged into the 528 yard Gasworks Tunnels which were also formerly three double-track bores before the East Bore was abandoned.
View from back cab of 373 on No. 1 Fast, Copenhagen Tunnels in background, North London Incline on left, CTRL viaduct above: East Coast Main Line.
We stopped in platform 6 and, of course, the driver changed ends once again. Before we set off, I managed to take the picture below from the leading cab before concentrating on the testing we carried out as the train sped northwards to Grantham.
King's Cross on a rainy morning: View from now-leading cab prior to departure from platform 6 to Grantham, showing South Portals of Gasworks Tunnels.
King's Cross to Grantham
I was kept pretty busy monitoring the testing on the Down journey to Grantham. I'm not sure of the Line Speed Limit at the time, but we were batting along and passing signals frequently so there are no photographs recording the trip. We had a slight problem with the test gear at one point but, other than that, we collected plenty of useful data to be analysed later. It was still raining when we stopped at Grantham.
Grantham back to London
As soon as the driver had changed ends, we set off back to London, crossing to the Up Line on the crossover south of Grantham station. We were not carrying out active tests this time, as we were now at the rear of the train, so I was able to take a few pictures as we hurtled south.
View from back cab of 373 passing Grantham South Junction as we cross to the Up Main for our journey back to London on the East Coast Main Line.
After the 880 yard Stoke Tunnel, the route became 4-track 'paired by direction' and we passed the site of "Mallard's" record breaking run.
Jan in the 'Back Cab' near Essendine on the return journey.
We reeled off another twenty miles at speed to reach Spital Junction, Peterborough.
View from back cab of 373 at Spital Junction, Peterborough, with Peterborough North Depot on the right, on the way back to King's Cross: East Coast Main Line.
We took the Up Fast through Peterborough station and passed under the distinctive girder arch bridge which takes Thorpe Road over the railway.
View from back cab of 373 south of Peterborough station on the way back to King's Cross: East Coast Main Line.
South of Hitchin, I was on slightly more familiar ground as, back in 1974, my firm had installed an Electrification Telephone system for British Rail between Hitchin and King's Cross. This is briefly mentioned in the post Electrification Telephone Systems for British Rail. Just north of Wood Green (the station is now called 'Alexandra Palace') we passed the flyover junction leading to the Hertford Loop.
View from back cab of 373 approaching Wood Green on Up Fast, passing an EMU on the Up Slow. The Enfield Viaduct carrying the Down Hertford is in the background and the Up Hertford is on the right: East Coast Main Line
We were routed onto the Up Slow at Finsbury Park, continuing on the Up Slow Flyover into the West Bore of Copenhagen Tunnels. At lowered speed, we took the crossover to the Down Slow and, emerging from Copenhagen Tunnel, diverged onto the North London Incline.
View from back cab of 373 on the North London Incline with the South Portals of Copenhagen Tunnels in the background as we returned to North Pole International Depot .
I noticed that construction work in connection with the various new connections to St. Pancras International was well advanced.
View from back cab of 373 on the North London Incline at Camden Road Incline Junction with new connection to Cedar Junction on the right as we returned to North Pole International Depot. The North London Line is on the left, with both third rail and overhead electrification. Camden Road East Junction is in the left background.
Our Test Train joined the North London Line at Camden Road Central Junction, and passed through the station where passengers were waiting for an expected Eastbound train at modest speed. After passing Camden Road signal box (since abolished) we diverged onto the branch to Gospel Oak.
View from back cab of 373 passing Camden Road onto the Gospel Oak Branch as we returned to North Pole International Depot. This section of the North London Line has both third rail and overhead electrification.
We passed through Gospel Oak and continued fairly slowly to Kensal Green High Level Line Junction where we were routed onto the middle one of the three diverging routes.
View from back cab of 373 passing Kensal Green High Level Line Junction on Down Line as we returned to North Pole International Depot.
Our route took us through Willesden Junction High Level station and the bridges over the West Coast Main Line. At Willesden High Level Junction signal box (since abolished) we took the sharply-curved Down High Level Line to Mitre Bridge Junction where we joined the Up West London Line, coming to a stand south of North Pole Junction.
View from back cab of 373 passing Willesden High Level Junction and taking the sharply-curved Down High Level Line to Mitre Bridge Junction as we returned to North Pole International Depot.
After the driver changed ends for the final time, we made our way into the Depot, using the reversible Departure Line. We unloaded our test equipment and left the Class 373 after a productive and fascinating trip.
View of the Class 373 on arrival back at North Pole Depot.
References
Track diagrams showing North Pole International Depot and the route through Willesden Junction High Level are shown in publication:-
‘Railway Track Diagrams Book 5: Southern and TfL’ (TRACKmaps: 3rd edition) ISBN 978-0-9549866-4-3.
Track diagrams showing the route from North Pole International Depot to King's Cross and from King's Cross to Grantham are shown in publication:-
‘Railway Track Diagrams Book 2: Eastern’ (TRACKmaps: 3rd edition) ISBN 0-9549866-2-8.
The above issues show the route substantially as it was at the time of my journey: later issues will, of course, reflect subsequent changes.
Related sites
TRAIN PROTECTION IN THE UK. (The Railway Technical Web).
Related posts on this site
Channel Tunnel Rail Link
My Pictures
Where necessary, clicking on an image above will display an 'uncropped' view or, alternately, pictures from may be selected, viewed or downloaded, in various sizes, from the albums listed:-
Class 373: Test Train to Grantham.
[Extent of first section of 'High Speed 1' corrected: 12-Mar-2017]
On Friday, 17th February 2017 I arrived at London Euston with a few hours to spare before an invitation to Afternoon Tea. I intended to take a short trip on the Channel Tunnel Rail Link (CTRL) first and decided I'd time to travel from St. Pancras International to Ebbsfleet International and back, so I walked east along Euston Road from Euston to St. Pancras International.
London: Aerial view looking south in 2009 showing King's Cross (left) and St. Pancras International (right).
St. Pancras International
The Grade 1 listed station hotel in Gothic Revival style fronting Euston Road was designed by George Gilbert Scott (see Wikipedia article here) and has been handsomely restored. I'm glad it's been saved but even I find its exuberant style a bit florid.
London: St. Pancras International: restored frontage to Euston Road.
I passed through the entrance onto the station concourse beneath the magnificent arched roof designed by William Henry Barlow (see Wikipedia article here). This has also been restored and I commented approvingly in a 2008 post here. The concourse area was eerily quiet on my visit, as were the international platforms, segregated behind their glass walls.
St. Pancras International: View of Barlow's trainshed looking south, with International Platform 10 on the right.
But looking down to the undercroft below, I could see plenty of activity. The need for the Midland Railway approaching St. Pancras to cross over the Regent's Canal just north of the station required the platforms to be elevated above the level of Euston Road. Barlow turned this necessity into a virtue by building the undercroft to store the major shipments of beer from Burton-on-Trent required to slake the Capital's thirst! Now, the undercroft presents shopping and eating opportunities to the traveller. The modified undercroft and the new-build concourse at ground level just north of the original train shed were much busier. This concourse has ticketing and check-in for international services on the south side, domestic ticketing on the north side and exits to the adjacent King's Cross Station of the east side.
I successfully purchased a return to Ebbsfleet International from an automatic machine and took the escalator to platform level to catch the 11:12 Southeastern High-speed domestic service, operated by a Class 395 'Javelin' Electric Multiple Unit (EMU). The Class 395 can run at up to 140 m.p.h. on High Speed 1. Back in 2007 I was involved in design and testing for some of the on-board signalling equipment for this design. There's a short post about the design here and a post about site testing here.
London: St. Pancras International: High-Speed Domestic Platforms.
High Speed 1
High Speed 1, linking the Channel Tunnel (opened 1993) to London, was built in two stages. The first stage, opened in 2003, allowed high speed running at up to 186 m.p.h. between the Channel Tunnel and the vicinity of Ashford International; Eurostar trains then continued to Waterloo International station in London on existing, third-rail d.c. electrified lines. In 2007 the northern section was completed to Stratford and St. Pancras, providing maximum speeds of 140 m.p.h., and a new maintenance depot at Temple Mills replaced the original one at North Pole. The Wikipedia article here briefly outlines the 'alarums and excursions' involved during the completion of this very expensive project.
My Class 395 departed on time with the train reasonably full. Leaving St. Pancras, colour light signals are provided and the KVB control system. 'KVB' stands for 'Contrôle Vitesse par Balise' ('Speed Control by Beacon') since the system is of French origin. The track layout is quite interesting. CTRL curves to the right, but throws off three connections on the left: a maintenance siding which connects with the Midland Mainline, the single line Silo Curve which joins the North London Line at Camden Road (allowing running onto the West Coast Main Line) and the single line ECML Connection. There's also a North London Line CTRL Connection from York Way South Junction to join Silo Curve at Cedar Junction. The picture below was taken from a CTRL train arriving at St. Pancras International.
Approaching St. Pancras International on Up CTRL (on viaduct)). Down CTRL in foreground, ECML Connection behind. Silo Curve left rear and North London Line CTRL connection right rear converge at Cedar Junction in the distance.
The ECML Connection (currently not in regular use) joins the much older North London Incline at York Way North Junction, then joining the Down Slow of the East Coast Main Line just south of the Copenhagen Tunnels. Leaving St. Pancras International, I just managed to picture the East Coast Main Line and Copenhagen Tunnels before the double-track CTRL crossed the East Coast Main Line on a covered bridge.
London: Leaving St. Pancras International on CTRL, North London Incline and ECML Connection on left, high level bridges of North London Lines crossing the East Coast Main Line on right with south portals of Copenhagen Tunnels in the distance. The portal of the covered bridge on HS1 is just visible on the right.
We entered the twin tunnels called London Tunnel 1, each around 7.5 km long. In-cab signalling using the TVM-430 system is in use. This system is also French and 'TVM' stands for 'Transmission Voie-Machine' ('Track to Train Transmission). There's a useful article on Wikipedia here. Left-hand running is normally adopted but the signalling is arranged to allow bi-directional running when required.
At Stratford International, the London 1 tunnels emerge into a long concrete station box, open to the sky but not very attractive. There's plenty of pointwork and a single line grade-separated connection allows empty stock to get to and from the depot at Temple Mills. From north to south, the six lines of High Speed 1 are Down International, Down CTRL, Down RDO, Up RDO, Up CTRL, Up International. My train paused at the single island platform used by Southeastern trains. The Down CTRL and Up CTRL are through lines used by Eurostar services whilst the Down International and Up International loops are flanked by platforms although these are currently unused.
High Speed One: East end of Stratford International. Looking west towards St. Pancras from Montifichet Road with the Westfield Stratford City on left.
My train continued through the twin tunnels called London Tunnel 2, each just over 10 km long, emerging at Dagenham Docks Junctions, where connections allow freight trains from the Channel Tunnel to reach Ripple Lane Railhead. The Tibury branch of the line from Fenchurch Street ran parallel past Rainham to our north, then we crossed over that line near Purfleet, with views of the River Thames and the disused Littlebrook Power Station on the south bank. After brief views of the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge which (together with a twin-tube tunnel) carries the M25 motorway across the river, we made our own river crossing by the twin tubes of the Thames Tunnel which, including covered ways extending beyond the tunnel portals, are a little over 3 km long.
View from High Speed 1, looking across the River Thames, with the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge on the left.
Ebbsfleet International
Emerging from the Thames Tunnel, we were already slowing for Ebbsfleet International. Like Stratford International, there are six lines through the main station, but arranged in a different order. From east to west they are Down CTRL, Down International (with platform), Down Domestic LL and Up Domestic LL (both served by an island platform), Up International (with platform) and Up CTRL. The Domestic Platforms are identified as 'LL' for Low Level as there is a further island platform for Domestic High Speed trains continuing on the (conventional) North Kent Line. High speed domestic services from St. Pancras International for the North Kent Line diverge via a grade-separated junction just after the Thames Tunnel and, after stopping at the High Level platform, join the North Kent Line from Dartford at Springhead Junction, another flyover junction.
I left the train which continued to Margate and set about a brief survey. The station is surrounded by grassland with several large car parks. There were taxis and people waiting for a bus. Swanscombe lies to the West with Dartford further afield. Northfleet lies to the east with Gravesend a little more remote.
High Speed 1: Ebbsfleet International. Looking towards the coast as the train I arrived on leaves, viewed from Down Domestic Platform with the Down International Platform on the left.
The station really is 'International' (unlike Stratford) and two continental departures were on the information display near the Eurostar Check-In.
High Speed 1: Ebbsfleet International, Passenger Information Display at 'Eurostar' Check-In.
I then travelled back to St. Pancras International on another Class 395, after an informative few hours learning about CTRL and I made my way to a very enjoyable Afternoon Tea.
High Speed 1: Ebbsfleet International. Looking towards St. Pancras from Down Domestic Platform with the TVM Block Marker and subsidiary signal AF144.
Books
Track diagrams of the Channel Tunnel Rail Link are in the following publication (or later issue):-
‘Railway Track Diagrams Book 5: Southern and TfL’ (TRACKmaps: 3rd edition) ISBN 978-0-9549866-4-3
Related sites
St Pancras railway station (Wikipedia).
High Speed 1 (Wikipedia).
Transmission Voie-Machine (Wikipedia).
HS1 Ltd (The operating company).
St. Pancras International.
Stratford International.
Ebbsfleet International.
Ashford International.
Related posts on this site
Class 373 Test Train to Grantham.
London's Terminal Stations (discusses St. Pancras).
Crewe International Electric Maintenance Depot.
Class 395 Trainsets.
Testing Class 395 Trainsets.
My Pictures
Where necessary, clicking on an image above will display an 'uncropped' view or, alternately, pictures from may be selected, viewed or downloaded, in various sizes, from the albums listed:-
London: St. Pancras Station.
High Speed 1.
Class 395: Testing.
Channel Tunnel and High Speed One.
London, England.
Arriving in London on Friday, 27th January 2017 with a few hours before a business meeting, I decided to repeat a trip I made on on 8th September 2014 (described here) when I'd taken a short trip on the former Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Stratford (the one in East London, not the one associated with William Shakespeare).
I arrived by Virgin 'Pendolino' at Euston and walked along Euston Road to Euston Square station where I caught a train five stops on the historic Circle Line to Liverpool Street.
Liverpool Street - Stratford
I didn't pause to admire the restored parts of the Great Eastern Railway terminus around the main line concourse but made my way to the subterranean platforms to catch a Stratford train.
I was surprised to find that the service between Liverpool Street and Shenfield had, since May 2015, been operated for TfL Rail by MTR Corporation (Crossrail) Limited (who, following the previously-noted fear of capital letters which is becoming endemic, usually call themselves 'mtr crossrail'). When the massive Crossrail Project is complete, MTR will also operate the new or upgraded route from Reading and Heathrow in the west to Shenfield and Abbey Wood in the east, under the branding 'Elizabeth Line'. The line will be operated by new, 9-coach Class 345 'Aventra' trains being built by Bombardier in Derby.
At the time of my visit, Class 315 EMU were operating the service from Liverpool Street, terminating at Brentwood, presumably whilst upgrading was taking place on the rest of the line to Shenfield.
Class 315, in TfL Rail livery, in platform 17 at Liverpool Street.
We departed on time and effortlessly climbed the bank to Bethnal Green, where the branches to north London diverge, and continued to Stratford, passing the once-notorious former Bryant & May match factory, which is now apartments in the 'Bow Quarter', with a website here. I say 'once-notorious' as this was the location for the "Match Girls' Strike" of 1888 which led to the creation of the first womens' trade union.
The former Bryant & May match factory, now apartments in the 'Bow Quarter'.
After passing the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (with its dreadful ArcelorMittal Orbit tower - more on their website here), we slowed for the station stop at Stratford, where I left the train.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, home to West Ham United Football Club and the ArcelorMittal Orbit.
Docklands Light Railway
I had not kept up with the pace of developments on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR). There's an informative history of the network, including proposals for still further extension, in Wikipedia here and the present route map is here.
The system originally opened, in 1987, with a just a city terminus rather inconveniently located at Tower Gateway extending via Canary Wharf to a terminus at Island Gardens, north of the river. At Poplar, just north of Canary Wharf, a triangular junction connected to a branch to Stratford. The original Operating and Maintenance Centre (OMC) was at Poplar. In 1991, construction of the tunnel section to Bank gave much better interchange with the tube system and, since then, the system has been significantly extended and upgraded.
I decided to travel from Stratford to Greenwich, using the DLR. Originally, the interchange at Stratford was just a short bay platform 'cut into' the existing island platform serving the Up Electric and Westbound Central Line. Currently, DLR has its own 2-platform terminus on the original branch from Poplar, plus two more platforms on the former British Rail Stratford Low Level line now incorporated into the DLR route from Stratford International to Canning Town and from there to Beckton or Woolwich Arsenal.
View from front of DLR train leaving Stratford platform 4A.
The line singles leaving Stratford, squeezed into a narrow margin on the south side of the former Great Eastern main lines. Next, the line doubles and slews to the left through Pudding Mill Lane station before turning right, reverting to the original alignment of a single line next to the main lines. Apparently, this (fairly recent) alteration was to accommodate Crossrail works in the vicinity of the original station - Pudding Mill Lane now has quite a grand new station.
The single line doubles through the new Pudding Mill Lane station.
After continuing parallel to the Liverpool Street lines past the former Bryant & May factory, the line turns south and becomes double track before Bow Church station.
The single line doubles before Bow Church station.
Our route continued through Devons Road, Langdon Park and All Saints. Beyond All Saints stations, connections diverge to the right to serve the sidings at the depot at Poplar. Approaching Poplar station, the route from Canning Town converges.
Docklands Light Railway: Turnouts approaching Poplar station.(L-R): WB Canning Town, SB Stratford, NB Stratford, EB Canning Town (on flyover).
Leaving Poplar station, my train swung sharply left as it climbed the steep East Curve to West India Quay. Just 200 metres further on, we stopped under the elliptical, glazed roof of Canary Wharf Station, where I changed trains. The three roads through the station are provided with two island platforms and two flanking platforms so each road has a platform on both sides to improve passenger flow. I alighted on the correct side and, within a minute or two, my connecting train arrived on the opposite face of the same platform.
Docklands Light Railway: Changing trains at Canary Wharf.
The train I'd joined was heavily loaded for our journey through Heron Quays, South Quay, Crossharbour (with its turnback siding) and Mudchute (now with a third, terminal platform). Originally, the double track beyond Mudchute ran on the surface to a simple terminal at Island Gardens. Now the line is extended to Lewisham, the line dives underground to a new underground station at Island Gardens after which it crosses the Thames to a second underground station called Cutty Sark, where I disembarked, along with a crowd of other passengers. The train I'd left would continue to stations at Greenwich, Deptford Bridge, Elverson Road and Lewisham. I reached the surface quite near the river and the impressive bulk of Cutty Sark, now transformed into a major tourist attraction.
London, Greenwich: Cutty Sark.
I was tempted to go back to Island Gardens through the Greenwich foot tunnel which, since the last time I used it, now has user-operated lifts. However, unsure of the time this detour would take, instead I took a few photographs around what is now Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site.
London: Entrance to Greenwich Foot Tunnel
Near the river, there were splendid views of the incomparable 17th-century buildings designed by Sir Christopher Wren (on the site of the earlier Royal palace) built as the Royal Hospital for Seamen, housing retired veterans of Britain's navy, later seeing service as the Royal Naval College. The Old Royal Naval College has a website here.
London: The Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich:
After admiring Wren's creation, my eye was also drawn downstream to the rather grim outline of Greenwich Power Station, with its four 8-sided chimneys and, thrust into the Thames, its disused coal unloading jetty standing on sixteen massive cast-iron Doric columns.
Greenwich Power Station
In the post London Underground - Traction Power Distribution, I mentioned the importance of London Underground's Greenwich Power Station. Since Lots Road Power Station was shut in 1998, London Underground has derived its power from the National Grid, but Greenwich was retained as the Central Emergency Power Supply.
Greenwich Power Station was built in two stages between 1902 and 1910 for the London County Council to power trams and underground trains. There are articles on the origins of Greenwich Power Station in Grace's Guide here and in Port Cities here. There's also a brief account in Wikipedia here.
I was surprised to discover that tables showing the generated output from the power station for the ten years to 2014 are available online (following a Freedom of Information Request) here. This is available through the mySociety project of the charity UK Citizens Online Democracy (UKCOD).
A plan to improve efficiency and lower the carbon footprint of the station using a new Combined Heat and Power (CHP) gas installation is under consultation.
London: Greenwich Power Station.
Ferry to London Bridge
I'd decided to take a ferry from Greenwich to London Bridge City pier, near the location of my meeting. MBNA Thames Clippers operate a scheduled service of fast ferries on the river. Their web site is here and details of their fleet of modern, large catamarans powered by waterjet or propellor are here. The huge 220-seat 'Hurricane Clipper' arrived on time and, within moments, was loaded and heading upstream again.
London: 'Hurricane Clipper' at Greenwich landing stage.
After a brief pause at Canary Wharf we continued upstream, passed through the north fixed span of Tower Bridge and then set off again, passing the moored light cruiser 'H.M.S. Belfast' (there's a post describing a visit I made here) and stopping at London Bridge City Pier after a total journey time of just over 20 minutes. I disembarked with a few other passengers and 'Hurricane Clipper' roared away upstream.
After an informative and enjoyable few hours, I made my way to my meeting.
My Pictures
Where necessary, clicking on an image above will display an 'uncropped' view or, alternately, pictures from may be selected, viewed or downloaded, in various sizes, from the albums listed:-
London: Former Great Eastern Line.
Docklands Light Railway.
London, England.
In the post Return to Merseyside (Part 3), I described my first, brief exploration around the modern Brunswick Station.
On Saturday, 4th February 2017, I returned to Brunswick Station intending to walk from there along the Riverside Walk to Pierhead.
I had an uneventful journey from Wolverhampton using the London Midland service to Liverpool South Parkway where I changed to a Merseyrail train for the short journey to Brunswick. It had been cold and overcast when I started from home but at Brunwick, there was bright sun and the day remained very pleasant, except for a brief shower in the early afternoon. On my first visit, I'd been able to walk directly from the station to the river by crossing through the Brunswick Business Park but, on Saturday, I was rather surprised to find the Harrison Way gates securely locked. A small sign, which I almost failed to spot, directed me south along Sefton street to reach the Riverside Walk.
This led me past a series of modern, smaller business premises on the left (many car-related) and huge modern warehouses on to my right, the second of which was occupied by TeamSport Go Karting (see their site here).
My detour offered me a view of the unusual entrance to the C.L.C. Dingle tunnel, now used by Merseyrail services to Hunts Cross. The tunnel is approached by a short, deep rock cutting carrying an iron bridge which provides support for the area around Grafton Street.
The unusual north portal to Dingle Tunnel on the C.L.C. (now Merseyrail), with the houses on Grafton Street in the background.
Just beyond this tunnel, there is the partially bricked-up entrance to the abandoned Liverpool Overhead tunnel. The sandstone portal remained in excellent condition, with the inscriptions clearly legible - 'L. O. Ry. SOUTHERN EXTENSION | 1896 | ENGINEERS SIR DOUGLAS FOX, J.H. GREATHEAD, S. B. COTTRELL | CHAIRMAN SIR WILLIAM BOWER FORWARD | CONTRACTORS H. M. NOWELL, C. BRADDOCK'.
Liverpool area rail: Entrance to abandoned Liverpool Overhead Railway Extension tunnel built 1896.
On my right,I passed the brick-built transit shed which had served the east side of the now-filled-in Harrington Dock. This has been retained and modernised as the South Harrington Building, partly occupied by Royal Mail.
South Harrington Building, showing, on the left, the long elevation which faced the dock.
I turned into the service road and almost missed the small gate giving access to the Riverside Walk next to the filled-in 80-foot wide entrance to Herculaneum Dock. On the other side of the dock entrance I could see Chung Ku Chinese Restaurant. There had been a second 60-foot wide entrance to the south of the restaurant.
Views around former south docks: Chung Ku Chinese Restaurant and the filled-in entrance to former Herculaneum Dock.
The 1909 plan below shows where I started of my walk, near point 'L' on the plan.
Plan of Toxteth to Herculaneum Docks
Liverpool Docks Admiralty Maps, 1909, Plate 30 (Source: Wikimedia Commons).
Click here for a larger view.
I continued northwards along Riverside Walk, towards Pierhead (heading left on the plan above). There were occasional bicycles, joggers and walkers whose numbers increased as I came nearer to Pierhead. After passing the filled-in Harrington Dock, I had good views of the Tranmere oil handling installations on the Wirral side of the river.
There are two berths for oil tankers. The upstream berth was occupied by the chemical/oil products tanker 'Cenito', owned by LGR di Navigazione Spa and built in China in 2009. The ship's 'vital statistics' are here. The 'SUPER ICE' painted in the hull initially puzzled me - it's because she is classified 'Ice Class 1A Super' which is the highest of the Finnish-Swedish Ice Class ratings, allowing her to operate in difficult ice conditions without icebreaker assistance. Brief research on the internet subsequently showed that her recent ports-of-call included Antwerp and Aruba (in the Caribbean).
'Cenito' berthed at Tranmere.
The other berth at Tranmere was unoccupied (except by a tug), allowing a better view of the loading/unloading facilities.
Loading/unloading berth at Tranmere. The tug 'Switzer Stanlow' (with firefighting equipment) is moored at the berth.
I walked past more modernised transit sheds on my right, flanking the filled-in Toxteth Dock and saw parents with young children going into Yellow Sub, which describes itself as "Liverpool's Premier Play Centre". The only reminder of the lock which once connected Toxteth Dock directly to the river was a capstan, set within modern paving.
Liverpool - Capstan at former Toxteth Dock.
The 1909 plan below shows the continuation of my walk.
Plan of Queens to Toxteth Docks
Liverpool Docks Admiralty Maps, 1909, Plate 29 (Source: Wikimedia Commons).
Click here for a larger view.
I then had views of the Cammell Laird shipyard on the Birkenhead side. At a landing stage near the massive shipbuilding hall, two small craft were moored. They were 'Njord Forset' and 'Njord Odin', both 21m multi-purpose crew transfer vessels for the offshore windfarm industry, operated by Njord Offshore Ltd. There is more information on these vessels here.
Liverpool: 'Njord Forseti' and 'Njord Odin' moored near the Cammell Laird Shipbuilding Hall.
The locks for Brunswick Dock were the next feature on my walk.
Liverpool: Entrance to Brunswick Dock looking towards housing at Clippers Quay with Birkenhead in the left background.
There were two parallel locks which entered the river diagonally. The larger lock to my right was 100 feet wide but has been filled-in. The second lock, originally 80 feet wide, has been retained and modernised allowing Brunswick Dock and the adjacent Coburg Dock to be used as marinas for pleasure craft.
Liverpool: The 80-foot lock chamber at Brunswick Dock, adapted to provide a smaller, working lock for modern pleasure craft.
Whilst most Docks were connected to the river via locks with two sets of lock gates allowing vessels to enter and leave at any state of the tide, the small Brunswick Half-Tide Dock (as hinted by the name) had only one set of wooden lock gates, still in place but not in use.
Liverpool: Wooden Lock Gates at Brunswick Half Tide Dock.
The dock itself has been filled and surfaced and now serves as an out-of-the-water storage area for pleasure craft. The remaining walls facing the river, the two Lock-Keeper's Offices and the windlasses to work the gates and sluices give an impression of the meticulous attention to detail of Jesse Hartley, who was the Dock Engineer from 1824 to 1860. There's a little more about this remarkable man in the post Notes on Liverpool and its Docks.
Liverpool: Two Lock-Keeper's Offices at Brunswick Half Tide Dock.
Beyond Brunswick Half Tide Dock, the curved river wall with a set of stone steps gave testimony to the quality and endurance of the works carried out by Jesse Hartley.
Liverpool: Jesse Hartley's stonework near Brunswick Half Tide Dock.
I then came to a small tidal dock - South Ferry Basin. Once the river teemed with ferries linking both sides of the River Mersey, now a single Mersey Ferry operates a triangular route Pierhead - Seacombe - Birkenhead Woodside and the South Ferry Basin is long out of use and silted-up.
Liverpool: South Ferry Basin.
Coburg Dock came next. Originally, this dock had a single set of gates leading to the river, like Brunswick Half Tide Dock. But the 1909 plan shows this entrance permanently closed because a 100-foot wide passage linked Coburg Dock to Brunswick Dock from where 80-foot wide and 100-foot wide locks offered non-tidal connection to the river. Coburg Dock, still linked to Brunswick Dock, now forms part of Liverpool Marina. A launch area and slipway has been constructed at the river end of the dock.
Liverpool: Coburg Dock, showing launch area and slipway.
The footpath was now joined by a road called Kings Parade which has a bus service. I passed the end of Queens Branch Dock No. 1 which has received a new role as the home of Liverpool Watersport Centre (LWC). The Centre is one of the initiatives run by a local charity called Local Solutions, with support from the European Social Fund.
Liverpool: 'wakeboarding' at the Liverpool Watersport Centre in Queens Dock.
Never having heard of 'wakeboarding', I was puzzled by a series of what looked like waterski jumps and two overhead cable systems installed in the end of dock nearest me and. Two young people started performing which clarified the activity. The wakeboard is a short, modified single waterski. The cable system replaces a speedboat. The user attaches to the cable system which drags the performer in one direction before reversing and dragging them back. The user performs a '180 degree' turn at each end of the course and attempts waterski jumps along the course. The System 2.0 Wake Park site here lists 27 'Wake Parks' in the U.K. - the Liverpool Wake Park has a site here and British Water Ski & Wakeboard is the sport's governing body and membership organisation.
The expedition was becoming a little surreal, not helped by the fate of the next dock - Queens Graving Dock. Fashionable apartments called The Keel comprised one block on either side of the flooded dock and two shorter blocks bridge-like across the dock, forming a rectangle. I was now in a thoroughly modern environment passing, in turn, the three modern venues along Kings Parade, Exhibition Centre Liverpool, BT Convention Centre, ECHO Arena. All three are run as an integrated events centre by ACC Liverpool, who have an introductory video with 'drone footage' here. The Exhibition Centre is the most recent addition with a website here. The Pullman Hotel is integrated into this building.
Exhibition Centre Liverpool, Kings Parade.
Then I hurried past the Convention Centre and ECHO Arena towards the Albert Dock and the Waterfront area, concluding my first exploration to Liverpool's former South Docks.
Kings Parade, Liverpool: (L-R) ECHO Arena, BT Convention Centre, Exhibition Centre Liverpool.
Related posts on other sites
Ship AIS (live map showing ships in Liverpool).
Related posts on this site
I've written about Liverpool many times. Most are referenced in the post Liverpool (again).
My Pictures
Where necessary, clicking on an image above will display an 'uncropped' view or, alternately, all the pictures from this and earlier trips may be selected, viewed or downloaded, in various sizes, from the albums listed:-
Liverpool South Docks
Liverpool area rail
Liverpool.
