The 'Breakdown' at Bloomfield

After the commissioning of Wolverhampton Power Box, Bloomfield Junction signal box remained for a time as Bloomfield Junction Shunting Frame. I made a few visits but, of course, the working was a pale reflection of earlier times. However, 2nd October 1965 was a bit out of the ordinary.

Area around Bloomfield Junction Shunting Frame in the 1960s. The Stour Valley line runs from top left to bottom right. The 'Western' sidings are the two groups of sidings which diverge from the Stour Valley top left and curve towards the canal basins bottom right (Map: Old-Maps).

Bloomfield Shunting Frame, Saturday 2nd October 1965

I arrive at 07:10 and discover a little bit of excitement - there's three wagons 'Off the Road' down the 'Western' (these are the two fans of sidings leading to Tipton Five Ways Goods Depot). The 'Breakdown' has been summoned from Bescot.

Bloomfield Junction Shunting Frame, as detailed in Special Notice 745G.

The locking has been completely re-arranged and a lot of levers are now 'Spare' and painted white. There are now three release levers electrically controlled from Wolverhampton Power Box. Number 7 controls the trailing connection from the Down Main to the Down Sidings at the Wolverhampton end. The 4-aspect colour light for the Down Line (WN282 mounted on the signal gantry) is held 'On' (Red) whilst the release is given but the Ground Frame now controls the 'Cat's Eyes' (two diagonal white lights normally out) forming a subsidiary 'Shunt Ahead' signal mounted underneath the main signal. Numbers 27 and 28 control the crossover outside the box and the trailing connection to South Staffs Wagon Company.

There's not a lot to do now Bloomfield is demoted to a 'Shunting Frame' so I make my way through the overgrown sidings to inspect the damage. The derailed vehicles are DE190839, DM741097 and DB458080. It looks as if they came off whilst being propelled into the curving siding, possibly as a result of 'buffer-locking'.

Just before 11:00, a Ballast train arrives on the down with 60 wagons, mainly 'SOLES'. 8366 is the locomotive and it's reputedly Target 28. When we get release lever 7 from the Power Box, 8366 draws the whole train past the trailing connection with the Down Main. I made a note that Lever 12 failed to give an 'Off' indication (I think that was the 'Cat's Eyes'). We set the points for the 'Back Road' (number 2 Down siding) and clear the (semaphore) shunting signal for the move. The train cautiously sets back, controlled by handsignals from the Guard hanging out of his brake - when setting back 60 wagons towards a stop block, caution is good. While this is going on, the Down Parcels is standing at Tipton and the Breakdown Train is waiting at Princes End. Once the Ballast is safely 'Inside Clear' we restore the release at 11:32, allowing the Power Box to run the Parcels. Then he gives us all three releases so that we can turn out 8366 off the Ballast onto the Up Main, light engine to Bescot. We restore all the releases at 11:37.

The Power Box now looses the Breakdown (travelling as 1Z99 since he's on the way to an incident) 'Off the Top' and he arrives at 11:37, 8659 tender first, the Bescot Steam Crane, two Tool Vans, a Mess Van and another Tool Van. We get lever 7 released at 11:42, the breakdown draws clear of the trailing points, we set the road and he starts to back in. After a pause (perhaps whilst the Guard and Foreman decide which road down the Western to use), the train moves inside clear and we restore the release at 11:50. Whilst this is going on, 1S61 has come to a stand at Tipton and there's a train of Empty Stock behind that.

We're needed again when T54 comes 'Off the Top' with 8754, because he has "Three to put off at Bloomfield". He comes to a stand on the Down at 12:06, we get Lever 7 released at 12:10 and the engine goes inside on the 'Front Road' with the three wagons to detach. He doesn't hang about - we restore the release at 12:18 and T54 disappears towards Spring Vale.

The three derailed wagons are back on the track by 12:35 - apparently it was just a 'Jacking Job'. I'm not quite sure how we 'got rid of' the breakdown because there's a note about "reversing the train on 1 to get the crane next to the engine" which I don't understand (remember, we'd got 60 Ballast on 2 and three wagons on 1). There's also no note in my train register about getting releases to despatch 2Z99 back to Bescot. However, by 13:20, it was all done and we closed the Shunting Frame.

A copy of the Train Register entries covering these movements appears below:-

DOWN

UP

North British Locomotive Company Limited

North British introduced a distinctive diamond-shaped works plate, seen here on a locomotive built in 1926 now in Livingstone Railway Museum, Zambia.

Scotland, and in particular Glasgow, had a reputation for producing excellent engineers and engineering products. So it is perhaps no surprise that Glasgow was the home of a famous locomotive builder - the North British Locomotive Company Limited. The first locomotive built by the company was outshopped in 1903 but the company's origins are much earlier since North British was formed by the amalgamation of three locomotive builders.

The oldest of the three constituent companies was Sharp, Stewart and Company which had originated in Manchester. Locomotive building had started in the 1830s with 'Experiment' built for the Liverpool and Manchester by the firm of Sharp, Roberts and Company (already famous for textile machinery). Locomotive construction expanded as the firm became Sharp Brothers and, in 1852, Sharp, Stewart and Company. Locomotive construction continued in Manchester, for both British and Foreign railways, until the 1880s when the business was relocated to Springburn in Glasgow. By the time Sharp, Stewart and Company amalgamated in 1903, it had produced over 5,000 locomotives.

In 1836, Mitchell and Neilson was set up in Glasgow as an engineering company. This company traded under various names (all including 'Neilson') for the first few years at the Hyde Park Works in Finnieston. After producing a number of stationary steam engines, the firm started to expand into the business of building locomotives. In 1858 Henry Dubs became General Manager and supervised the move to a new works in Springburn (also called 'Hyde Park Works' to commemorate the firm's origins). In 1863, Dubs resigned as Managing Partner to set up his own business and was replaced by James Reid. In 1876, Reid bought out Neilson and the firm, again under a variety of names, continued to enjoy success. In 1893, Reid's four sons joined him in the business. James Reid died the following year and, in 1898, the firm's name was changed to Neilson, Reid and Company.

As noted above, Dubs left Neilsons in 1863, after acrimonious disagreements, to set up The Glasgow Locomotive Works in Polmadie (later called Queens Park Works). The locomotives were innovative and well-built and the Dubs business grew to become the second largest locomotive builder in Britain.

By the start of the twentieth century, the earlier success of these three Glasgow locomotive builders was being challenged by manufacturers in other counties, notably by Baldwin in America. To counter this threat, in 1903 Sharp Stewart, Neilson Reid and Dubs decided to amalgamate to form 'The Combine'. Initially, the three different works carried on independently, much as before, but they had sufficient success, particularly in the important export market, to carry on building steam locomotives until after the second world war.

Indian and African railways continued to be important markets for North British. It was only when I visited Livingstone Railway Museum in Zambia that I realised the significance of the African market to North British. Here's a summary of the preserved locomotives in Livingstone Railway Museum which had been built in Glasgow:-

No. 955, built Neilson Reid 1892.
No. 69, built Neilson Reid 1900.
No. 70, built Neilson Reid.
No. 1126, built Sharp Stewart 1902.
No. 91, built North British 1912.
No. 96, built North British 1912.
No. 181, built North British 1926.
No. 57, built North British 1957/8.

The only locomotives exhibited which were not supplied by 'The Combine' and its predecessors were three Beyer-Garratts and a Hunslet 2-6-2 tank.

Running number 1126 in the museum is an 8th Class locomotive, shown below:-
(Click on any of these images for a larger view)

Rhodesia Railways 8th Class, supplied in 1903/4 (Mitchell Library Collection).

Running number 181 in the museum is a 12th Class locomotive and I found a further, working example (No. 204) operated by Bushtracks on the Royal Livingstone Express. The 'ex-works' condition of this class is shown below:-

Rhodesia Railways 12th Class, ordered 1929 (Mitchell Library Collection).

In addition to the working 12th Class, Bushtracks operate No. 156, a working example of the 10th Class also used on the Royal Livingstone Express and in steam at the time of my visit. The outline diagram of the 10th Class is shown below:-

Rhodesia Railways 10th Class, supplied in 1929/30 (Mitchell Library Collection).

North Britsh produced a surprising number of locomotives for the British railway companies. Often, the railway company would manufacture part of the Class in their own workshops and North British would produce the balance. At least 19 North British locomotives for the railways of Britain have been restored to action by the preservation movement (and I've worked on a least six of them). Birmingham Railway Museum Pannier Tanks 7752 (shown below) and 7760 were both built by North British in 1930.

Preserved 'Pannier' 7752 at Tyseley (Birmingham Railway Museum).

By the 1950s, potential customers were increasingly turning to diesel and electric traction and North British produced various designs using these more modern forms of motive power. Despite these innovations, trading conditions continued to deteriorate and the business was finally liquidated in 1962.

References

'North British Steam Locomotives built 1857-1956 for railways overseas' by John H. Court (D. Bradford Barton) ISBN 0 85153 332 9.
'Glasgow: Locomotive Builder to the World' Murdoch Nicolson, Mark O'Neill (Polygon Books) ISBN 0 948275 46 4.
'Giants of Steam' by Rodger P. Bradley published by Oxford Publishing Company ISBN 0-86093-505-1 provides a detailed history of the North British Locomotive Company Limited.

There is a North British Locomotive Preservation Group and you can find their website here.

There's a Wikipedia article on North British here.

'Thomas' at the Battlefield Line

'Thomas' was performing at the Battlefield Line on four days during April 2012. At this time, Britain was suffering from an Official Drought so, predictably, it rained most of the time I was there. I missed the first day, Saturday 21st April, because I was driving at Peak Rail but on the next day, I was rostered to drive 'Daisy' the DMU.

Sunday 22nd April 2012

If you've followed earlier posts, you'll be aware that we're currently using the single-unit 'Bubble Car' 55005. This, obviously, doesn't have the passenger capacity of the 2-car set but, since only half of the 2-car set is currently under repair, the other half of the 2-car set has been coupled to the 'Bubble Car' to give a slightly odd looking 2-car formation. I was always impressed with the inherent flexibility of these multiple units where each coach had standard buffers, standard drawgear, standard vacuum and air hoses and standard jumper cables. This meant that they could, where necessary, attach vacuum fitted vans as tail traffic. In addition, in the event of a problem with any vehicle in a set, a coach from another set could be readily substituted on a 'mix and match' basis.

I remember once when I was working the Museum Signal Box at Birmingham Railway Museum, the adjacent Tyseley diesel depot sent across a single driving power car to turn on the Museum turntable so that they could make one good set out of two faulty ones once the vehicle had been turned so that the driving cab faced the direction they wanted. A 1-car DMU with a corridor connection on the rear looked very odd!

During preparation, one important point to check was that the sliding door on the corridor connection leading nowhere was secured. The door lock requires a standard 'No. 1 Key' and there should also be a 'French Bolt' on the outside for further security. There was a slight delay sorting out one cab where the AWS settings had been altered and that made us a little late into traffic but we performed five 'Daisy Shuttles' during the day, one coupled to 'Thomas'.

I still imagine that a day on the DMU is going to be relaxing but, on a 'Thomas' event, that's not really so. In between services, the DMU is stabled on the DMU siding out of the way. During the lay-by I usually walk down to the station but sufficient time must be allowed for walking back up to the DMU and getting ready to bring the empty stock into Platform 1 when required. Once passengers are loaded and the main train has returned to Platform 2, 'Daisy' is 'turned out' onto the single line for a short run to the vicinity of Headley's Crossing. The, the driver has to change ends. With the 2-car unit or the 1-car 'Bubble Car', the driver can walk through the train, greeting the passengers on the way. But, with the current configuration, the driver has to climb down onto the track (remembering to take the Single Line Staff), walk the length of the train (whatever the weather) and climb back into the cab at the Shackerstone end. We then drive back to Platform 1 at Shackerstone, allowing the passengers to leave the train. Most passengers will then make their way across the barrow crossing at the north end (the footbridge is currently out of use) to join the Main Train on Platform 2. The driver changes ends again and drives the empty DMU back to the DMU Siding for the next lay-by.

If possible, some engines are shut down for economy during the lay-by but to be able to do a rapid 'Cab Start' when the engines are re-started, you need to have sufficient air pressure to operate the electro-pneumatic controls. Usually, some engines are kept running to maintain air pressure. With low air pressure, a 'Ground Start' must be performed, walking from engine to engine 'on the floor' and operating the individual manual engine control panels which each incorporate a manual throttle control. Initial start-up each morning during preparation is, of course, a 'Ground Start'.

Adjacent to each engine, mounted on the underframe, is a manual engine control panel. There's also an adjacent manual throttle control (not shown in this picture).

Well, I enjoyed the day but we had more-or-less continuous heavy rain and strong winds so I felt sorry for our passengers. I was able to book off nice and early but, with the bad weather, the walking up and down the yard to and from the DMU and (particularly) all the climbing up and down, I felt as if I'd had quite a hard day.

There's more information about DMUs here.

Saturday 28th April 2012

'Thomas' stands by the water crane at Shackerstone in the rain.

This time, I was on 'Thomas' which meant signing-on at about 6.15 a.m. 'Henry' (the Great Western '38') was half hidden in the gloom in the back of the shed, with 'Thomas' nearer the doors. Sam and Dave were busily engaged on various tasks and 'Thomas' was already in steam, having had a decent 'warming fire' put in on Friday evening. The '38' was standing over the pit and, since neither engine had sufficient pressure to move, I resigned myself to oiling round without benefit of a pit. At some point, I knew we'd move over the pit to empty the ashpan but, when it's possible to oil round without a pit, I tend to prefer it rather than risk running out of time. It was certainly possible to oil round and examine the locomotive without a pit but it was also very dirty and fairly unpleasant. You tend to emerge with stained overalls generally looking like 'The Creature from the Black Lagoon'. Once the pressure had come up, we arranged with John on the '38' to push him further into the shed so that we could clear the ashpan. Once unhooked from the '38' we moved out into the daylight to await our first move.

The Fat Controller joined us on the footplate for our debut appearance. In this Politically Correct era, I'm amazed we can still say 'Fat Controller' rather than, say, 'Avoirdupois-challenged Controller'. On the given signal, we moved down to Platform 1, whistle blowing furiously, to break the ceremonial tape which had been stretched in front of us. The DMU came into Platform 1 'on top of us' to form the 10.10 a.m. 'Daisy Shuttle'. Once she'd departed on her short trip, we moved across to the head of the 6-coach train in Platform 2. Whilst on shed, we'd 'borrowed' the water hose that the '38' had been using and managed to almost fill our side tanks - with 6-coaches standing in the platform we could not get to the water column.

Originally, our train had been timetabled to be 'top and tailed' with the '73' but the diesel had been delayed by a small brake problem so we were told we'd be going on our own with the (late running) 10.30 a.m. departure. That was fine with all three of us on the footplate and we had a good run to Shenton, ran round and had an even better run back to Shackerstone, stopping at Market Bosworth in both directions. The engine steamed well and is a lively runner but there's now a fair bit of wear on the 'bottom end' (axleboxes and motion) which discouraged excessive speed. The weather was overcast with a rather cold wind but without the lashing rain of the previous Sunday.

I think the '38' took the 11.40 departure and, once the main train had left, we watered at the now-accessible water column before becoming involved in engine races with the now-repaired '73', the 'there's-a-fish-in-the-water-tank' playlet and the 'Thomas' song 'the-wheels-on-Thomas-go-round-and-round'. When the '38' got back 'Daisy' made another foray down the line and then 'Thomas' and the '73' top-and-tailed the 12.55 p.m. 'Lunch on Thomas' train to Shenton. We continued with races, playlets and songs until the 3.00 p.m. 'Daisy Shuttle' when we coupled onto 'Daisy' and Stuart drove us up to Headley's Crossing and then I brought us back to Platform 1 at Shackerstone. With so much going on, I'm a bit hazy over who did what but I think the '38' did the 3.20 p.m. departure, allowing us to do more races, games and singing before moving onto the rear of the train with the '73' on the front for the 4.30 p.m. 'Tea on Thomas' train. We were still running late partly because of the need to ensure all the passengers who'd booked for the service had actually made it onto the train. Martin on the '73' said he was happy to have a little banking assistance on the uphill sections (the 4-cylinder English Electric diesel engine on the Class 73 is only rated at 600 h.p.) so, between us, we had a fairly spirited run to Shenton. We only stood for a few minutes and then we got the 'Rightaway' for the return journey. We put in another lively run on the way back but the Line Speed Limit is only 25 m.p.h. and parts of the line have lower limits, as shown below.

Location	Speed m.p.h.
Shenton Station (to Ground Frame)	5
Underbridge 26 (approach to Market Bosworth)	5
Market Bosworth Station (Signal Box to Bridge 27)	10
Adjacent Headley's Crossing (Relaid track)	10
Shackerstone Approach (Barton Lane overbridge 32 to Signal Box)	10
Shackerstone Station (signal box to stop board on Plat 1 and 2)	5

Back at Platform 2 at Shackerstone, we quickly 'unhooked' and dropped down the north end so as to reach the shed via Platform 1 and the ground frame. Sam, Dave and I agreed we'd had an enjoyable day and it didn't take us long to clean the fire, fill the boiler and complete disposal.

Detail pictures of this locomotive taken at previous events.

Sunday 29th April 2012

The 1-car unit coupled to half of the 2-car unit stands opposite the signal box at Shackerstone ready for the next run.

I returned to Shackerstone the following day, rostered on 'Daisy' again. It had been very wet on the previous Sunday (as I described above) but the 29th excelled itself with gale force winds combined with lashing rain. On the way to Shackerstone, we'd found a large tree brought down across our road (bringing a telephone cable down with it). There was just room to creep by the obstruction by using the verge. After this experience, I was not surprised when Chris, the Signalman, asked if I could do a Line Inspection with the DMU because of the risk of obstructions on the railway caused by the high winds.

I'd less than an hour before the first scheduled passenger departure at 10.10 a.m. when I was due to operate a 'Daisy Shuttle' prior to the first train to Shenton at 10.30 a.m. In the lashing rain and wind, I carried out the examination of the DMU and did a 'Ground Start' of the four 150 h.p. underfloor diesel engines as quickly as possible. Once the engines had produced sufficient air pressure for the electro-pneumatic controls to operate, I was able to come 'off shed', change ends, and set off for Shenton with Dave as an observer collecting the single line staff from Chris at the Signal Box as we passed. We didn't hang about but, of course, we had to comply with the speed restrictions shown in the table above and keep a good look out not just for obstructions but for anything which might become an obstruction. The heavy rain didn't help, of course. The windscreen in front of the driver is provided with an air-operated windscreen wiper We had an uneventful run to Shenton. There were plenty of twigs blown around but nothing of any size either on the line or in obvious danger of becoming detached. I changed ends again and we returned to Shackerstone once again keeping a good look out. There had been some fairly drastic 'cutting back' or removal of trees, reducing the potential threats. On arrival at Shackerstone Box, I had to climb down and go to the box to make an entry in the Train Register Book about the inspection and the result.

I then moved 'Daisy' into Platform 1 in time to board our first passengers. Probably because the wind and the rain discouraged hanging about on the platforms, we took lots of passengers on the first run.

Then the '73' and 'Thomas' took the first service train to Shenton. When they arrived back, after an uneventful trip, we made the second 'Daisy Dash' to Headley's. The rain and the wind continued unabated.

By the time we arrived back at Shackerstone, the '38' was coupled to the main train ready to take the next Shenton departure. The small tender fitted to the '38' gives good visibility when travelling tender first but is not much fun in bad weather so the crew were rigging the Storm Sheet (or Cab Sheet or 'Dodger') between the rear of the cab roof and the front of the tender to keep out the worst of the weather. This problem was mentioned in my earlier post on the '38'. The wind had become really ferocious and we learned later that the '38' struck a branch of a tree on the way out and stopped on the way back to clear the debris. No damage was done (except to the branch).

The weather didn't improve and, for the rest of the day, we were trying to pull back the late running. Despite the foul weather, I had an enjoyable day - I only hope our passengers did.

There's a set of pictures taken on Sunday 29th April here.

There are various posts describing 'Thomas' events. You can find them all here.

Royal Livingstone Express

Only when I arrived in Livingstone did I discover that Bushtracks, a tourism company operating in Zambia, run a steam-hauled evening dining train on Wednesdays and Saturdays in conjunction with the Royal Livingstone Hotel. There's a website here (which I didn't find until afterwards).

Following my visit to Livingstone Railway Museum on 15th February 2012, the Curator of the Museum offered to come to the Victoria Falls Steam Railway yard in Livingstone and make introductions. All the people at the railway were quite charming and a footplate ride that evening was readily offered by the Manager, Ben Costa.

Locomotive 204 (12th Class) at the head of the train.

When I arrived at the station, locomotive 204 was at the head of the train of beautifully-restored coaches. I had a quick look on the footplate of 204 which was not in steam. On the adjacent line, locomotive 156 was "brewing up" and I was introduced to the Driver. I was given a tour of the train which comprised five coaches.

Carriage No.6049 Club Car / Kitchen Car

This houses a small lounge and bar, as well as the kitchen. This can be used as a private venue for pre-dinner drinks for approximately 10 -12 guests. There's also a diesel powered generator for electricity and two air compressors.

Carriage 4821 Chesterfield Dining Car

Luxurious leather seats for 48 guests configured:
6 x 4 seat tables 9 x 2 seat tables 2 x 3 seat tables

Carriage 211 Wembley Dining Car

Seats for 44 guests configured:
7 x 4 tables 8 x 2 tables

Carriage 4101 Lounge Car

The Lounge Car is serviced from the Observation Car Bar by waiters.

Carriage 4933 Observation Car

Bar and Veranda viewing deck.

Locomotives

Locomotive 156 is 10th Class from a batch supplied in 1922-1924 by North British.
Locomotive 204 is 12th Class supplied in 1928 by North British.

Both are imposing tender engines with a 4-8-2 wheel arrangement, two outside cylinders and Walschaerts valve gear. Although both were built by North British in Glasgow, they are rather American in appearance and have bar frames (rather than the plate frames of British engines). The track gauge is only 3 foot 6 inches but a generous loading gauge allows large locomotives.

After looking round the locomotives, I returned to the Royal Livingstone for High Tea and a shower and by 5.00 p.m. I was back at the station for my footplate ride. There was a small shunt required to remove 204 from the train and 'park' it, then 156 was attached to the train. This involved blocking the main road into Livingstone (no gates) but there was little road traffic so a couple of staff could provide fairly informal 'traffic control'. Automatic couplers were provided so coupling was straightforward. The train was vacuum braked but, in common with a number of overseas railways, two vacuum hoses were provided at the end of vehicles, one on each side. The shunter/guard was able to connect the nearest pair of hoses just by reaching in. The pair of hoses on the other side of the train remained on the 'stopper', of course. Then, the passengers arrived in a variety of taxis and were conducted over the foot crossing in front of the engine to join the train by a single set of substantial movable steps (there was no platform).

Locomotive 156 ready to depart with the 'Royal Livingstone Express'.

Only on my return to the U.K. did I find quite a good description of the journey on the AfricanMecca site here which I quote below:-

"The dinner trip incorporates a classic steam expedition with fine dining provided by Sun International's Royal Livingstone Chefs. You will now be able to make the adventure of 15 kilometers of newly refurbished Mulobezi railway line through the heart of the Zambezi River Valley in a most magnificent and romantic steam train. AfricanMecca Clients will be picked up at 5.00 PM from the Royal Livingstone Hotel for the 15 min transfer to the platform. On arrival at the platform there will be a short time available for photographs to be taken and guests will have a safety talk from the train manager. Tickets will be collected to allow guests to board the train and a welcome drink will be served. The train will set off at 5.45 PM, passing through Dambwa Township on its way up the Mulobezi Line. The railway line runs parallel to the Zambezi River and Sunset will be enjoyed while travelling through the Mosi-o-Tunya National Park. A set four course dinner will be served just after 7.00 PM when the train stops for water at the 15 kilometer peg. The locomotive will then back the train up to the run around point, uncouple and move to the front of the train. The train will start its return journey at approximately 8 PM and Dinner will continue to be served while the train is in motion returning to Livingstone. Clients will be transfer back to the hotel by 10:00 PM. The Royal Livingstone Express is made up of five carriages: Two Dining Cars, a Kitchen Car, Lounge Car and an Observation Car with Steam Locomotives 10th Class 156 and 12th class 204 both built by Northern British Locomotive works in the 1930's. Loco 156 was renovated by the famous Wildlife Artist David Sheppard and in 1971 donated to Zambia National Heritage and restored again in 2005. The beautiful Wembley Dining Car was built by the Birmingham Railway Carriage and went on display in London at the British Empire Exhibition in 1924. It was shipped to the Union and entered service on 19th May 1926. In honor of its exhibition duties it was renamed the Wembley. The Steam train will run on the Mulobezi line which runs parallel with the Zambezi River and through the Game Park. The Mulobezi Line was once the largest privately owed railway network in the world set up by Zambezi Sawmills in 1916."

Well, my journey was slightly different but the above gives a good idea of the format. I'd have found the map below useful, as well, but I didn't find it until I got back.

Map of the route. Click on map to enlarge (Copyright Zambia Survey Department).

With the passengers safely aboard, the guard gave the 'Rightaway' at about 5.30 p.m. There was plenty of room in the cab for the driver, fireman, me and two young workers whose function was not immediately apparent although they provided 'traffic control' as we set off across the ungated main road. We carried the single line Train Staff marked 'SIMOONGA TO LIVINGSTONE' and the driver also had a hand-held radio-telephone which was used to communicate with the guard as necessary.

I stood behind the driver looking at the overgrown track ahead. The area was built-up leaving Livingstone and there were lots of people around. The line was unfenced and the many level crossings were, of course, ungated so I was reminded of how strange I found it driving a broad gauge Pacific out of Delhi some years ago with people criss-crossing the line in front of me. The 'Royal Livingstone Express' was going at a fairly sedate pace, so everybody moved out of our way in time and stood watching the train. The presence of an elderly European woman on the footplate caused some friendly amusement, of course.

After about 5km, we stopped at a set of double gates across the railway. This was the entrance to Mosi-o-tunya National Park. The two young men on the footplate climbed down, opened the gates and we continued our journey. The driver pointed out a couple of giraffe browsing happily in the bushes.

I'd been told that they'd been having some problems with lack of adhesion and I'm afraid that 156 started to 'lose her feet'. The young men got off, found some gravel and started 'hand sanding'. The driver suggested that the problem was grass on the railhead. We carried on slowly but again got into difficulty so, this time, the driver got off and sanded the line well ahead of the train. We carried on, left the National Park through another set of gates and came to a run round loop with a siding holding a couple of bogie open wagons where we stopped. The young men on the footplate had brought a chair screw spanner, so I decided that the points were 'spiked' in the normal position. The locomotive ran round its train here (so we didn't follow the AfricanMecca description above) and, when everybody was back on board, we re-started, this time propelling our train to the 'Dinner Stop'. Whilst the passengers had their meal, I was invited to relax in the Observation Car and I was made very welcome by the train staff. The locomotive crew seemed to be having some problems with the electric generator but, eventually, the dual headlight on the tender lit reliably (we were returning tender first). I didn't get the opportunity to return on the footplate but, by then, it was completely dark and had started to rain very heavily. I spent the return journey chatting to the guests, who'd been very impressed with the meal which had been prepared on the train by a Royal Livingstone Chef with Royal Livingstone waiting staff.

My thanks go to everybody who made my visit to the steam railway so enjoyable.

My railway pictures taken on my visit and on the trip up the line on the evening dining train are here.

Livingstone Railway Museum, Zambia

This description is based on information from Livingstone Railway Museum

The most modern locomotive in Livingstone Railway Museum is the massive North British 'G' Class 2-8-2, originally supplied as part of a batch to Nyasaland Railways in 1957/1958.

In 1973 Zambesi Sawmills Railways ceased trading and its Locomotive Repair Sheds at Livingstone were abandoned. The National Monuments Commission declared the site a National Monument in 1976 and restoration work was commenced, resulting in the official opening of the Livingstone Railway Museum by the First Republican President of Zambia, Dr. D. K. Kaunda on 12th June 1987.

There's a brief description of Zambesi Sawmills Railways here.

The Museum is situated a short distance from the centre of Livingstone adjacent to the Livingstone to Mulobezi branch (used by the Royal Livingstone Express). The sheds are situated at the centre of a triangle (or 'wye') of lines. Where space permits, a turning triangle is often preferred to a turntable for its simplicity and, of course, a triangle can handle lengthy Beyer Garratt locomotives.

I made a brief visit to the Museum in February 2012 and was received graciously by the Curator, Mr. Nasilele. The exhibits include wagons, a coach and a massive Cowans and Sheldon steam crane. The stars, of course, are the steam locomotives, all re-painted and stored in the open but with many fittings removed and generally in poor condition. In the hot sun, I dashed around most of the exhibits, clambering on and off footplates until I was fairly tired.

My pictures of Livingstone Railway Museum are here. Below are brief notes on some of the exhibits.

Class: 7th
Running nbr: 955
Built: Neilson Reid
Works nbr: 4447
Date: 1892
Arrgt: 4-8-0
Livery: Blue + Black smokebox
Orig owner: Cape Government Railways
Acquired ZSR: Purchased 1966
Notes: Oldest loco. in Zambia. Part of first batch of 7th class entering service 1892. Renumbered 955 in 1910 with the amalgamation of Central South African and Cape Government railways to form South African Railways. Saturated with slide valves.

Class: 7th
Running nbr: 69
Built: Neilson Reid
Works nbr: 5791
Date: 1900
Arrgt: 4-8-0
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways
Acquired ZSR: In 1926 for £2,500
Notes: One of second batch delivered through Beira and assembled at Umtali. RR nbr 20 (other 3 in batch 11, 12, 17). ZSR fitted the loco with an electric generator and headlights in 1929 - this was the first ZSR loco to be so fitted.

Class: 7th
Running nbr: 70
Built: Neilson Reid
Works nbr: ?
Date: ?
Arrgt: 4-8-0
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways
Acquired ZSR: ?
Notes: Complete with bees nest!

Class: 8th
Running nbr: 1126
Built: Sharp Stewart
Works nbr: 4862
Date: 1902
Arrgt: 4-8-0
Livery: Blue + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Imperial Military Railway which became the Central South African Railway which amalgamated with Cape Government railways to form South African Railways in 1910.
Acquired ZSR: Purchased in 1971.
Notes: Fitted with piston valves and assumed to be superheated. On ZSR worked 'forest mainline' trains and specials between Livingstone and Mulobezi until 1973. Remained at Mulobezi until 1976 on works trains and shunting firewood trains.

Class: 9th
Running nbr: 91
Built: North British
Works nbr: ?
Date: 1912
Arrgt: 4-8-0
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways. Sister engine 96 (below) was also supplied 1912. Both were part of the first batch of 18 9th Class locos.
Acquired ZSR: ? Notes: Displayed without tender, part dismantled and with boiler part sectioned to show construction.

Class: 9th
Running nbr: 96
Built: North British
Works nbr: 19822
Date: 1912
Arrgt: 4-8-0
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways. Sister engine 91 (above) was also supplied 1912. Both were part of the first batch of 18 9th Class locos.
Acquired ZSR: Purchased in 1963 for £1200 and worked up to 1973.

Class: 12th
Running nbr: 181
Built: North British
Works nbr: 23380 (The Museum gives the works number as 23392)
Date: 1926
Arrgt: 4-8-2
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways. Part of 1st batch of 20 12th Class.
Present owner: Zambia Railways (on loan to museum).
Notes: The class was ordered to replace ailing traction on the vital Salisbury-Bulawayo-Wankie route. Later nicknamed 'Glamour Girl' and a popular class. In 1967 (following independence) this was one of the locomotives assigned to Zambia.

Class: 15A
Running nbr: 401
Built: Beyer Peacock
Works nbr: 7353
Date: 1950
Arrgt: 4-6-4 + 4-6-4
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways. Part of 4th batch of an order for 30 'Class 15 Agaraes' intended for passenger and mail trains.
Present owner: Zambia Railways (on loan to museum).
Notes: Boiler 543 Engine 398. In 1967 (following independence) this was one of the locomotives assigned to Zambia. Regarded as the fastest of the Rhodesia Railways locos and free-running. Nicknamed 'Greyhounds'.

Class: 16A
Running nbr: 623
Built: Beyer Peacock
Works nbr: 7501
Date: 1952
Arrgt: 2-8-2 + 2-8-2
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways.
Present owner: Zambia Railways (on loan to museum).
Notes: In 1967 (following independence) this was one of the locomotives assigned to Zambia.

Class: 20th
Running nbr: 708 (The Museum gives the running number as 70)
Built: Beyer Peacock
Works nbr: 7693
Date: 1954
Arrgt: 4-6-4 + 4-6-4
Livery: Black + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Rhodesia Railways. Intended for Wankie and Kabwe coal trains.
Present owner: Zambia Railways (on loan to museum).
Notes: At 233 tons, this was the heaviest Rhodesia Railways loco. In 1967 (following independence) this was one of the locomotives assigned to Zambia. Withdrawn in the late 1970s when diesels were introduced.

Class: ?
Running nbr: 1
Built: Hunslet
Works nbr: ?
Date: 1924
Arrgt: 2-6-2 Side Tank
Livery: Yellow, marked 'NCCM'+ Black smokebox
Orig owner: ?
Notes: In 1929 worked at the Bwana Mcubwa Mine and nicknamed '1-2', then worked at the Nkana Mine and then at the Nchanga Mine. Used for stores distribution in 1958.

Class: G
Running nbr: 57
Built: North British
Works nbr: 27779
Date: 1957/58
Arrgt: 2-8-2
Livery: Green + Silver smokebox
Orig owner: Nyasaland Railways (Malawi)
Acquired ZSR: Cost K5,000 + K322 delivery.
Notes: Development of 'River' class supplied to Nigeria Railways and East African Railways. Part of last batch from North British with RSH boiler. Nicknamed 'Jubilee'.

There are working examples of a 10th class 4-8-2 and a 12th class 4-8-2 in Livingstone: see the post on the Royal Livingstone Express.

See also the page on ex-Rhodesia Railways exhibits on Geoff's Trains.

Zambezi Sawmills Railways

This description is adapted from displays in Livingstone Railway Museum, Zambia.

The oldest locomotive in Zambia, No. 955, built by Neilson Reid in 1892 and acquired second-hand by Zambezi Sawmills Railways in 1966. Now exhibited in Livingstone Railway Museum, Zambia.

Increasing demand for timber led to the formation of Zambezi Sawmills in 1916 by a number of private enterprises:-

Messrs Trombous, Salisbury (now Harare)
Jacobs Limited
Messrs A. F. Philips and Company (Bulawayo)
W. E. Tongue (Southern Rhodesia)

The timber was variously used locally, in the Copperbelt or in the mines of South Africa. In 1917 Zambezi Sawmills installed new machinery in Mapanda Forest, 48 km west of Livingstone. Cut timber was initially shipped back to Livingstone by ox cart and river barge but problems with this method led to the construction of a 2-foot gauge tramway (using Mukusi timber) from Mapanda to Livingstone. In order to exploit other reserves of Mukusi timber, a 3 foot 6 inch railway using steel rails was then built, initially from Mulobezi to Livingstone (163 km), later extended to Kataba (172 km).

The railway was operated by second-hand locomotives purchased from Rhodesia Railways, South Africa Railways and Nyasaland Railways. Various liveries were used.

In 1925, the name Zambezi Sawmills Railways was adopted and passengers were accepted, travelling at their own risk, perched on top of timber on flat cars and exposed to the weather, wild animals and fire thrown from locomotive chimneys.

Under the Nationalisation Reforms of 1968 the Government of the Republic of Zambia acquired 51% of the shareholding of all privately-owned organisations.

In 1973 Zambesi Sawmills Railways ceased trading and its Locomotive Repair Sheds at Livingstone were abandoned. In 1976 the National Monuments Commission declared the site a National Monument and it subsequently became a railway museum. I visited the Museum in February 2012 and there's a brief post here. My pictures taken at the railway museum illustrate the range of locomotives used by Zambezi Sawmills Railways.

Back Home

The seven and a half hour flight to Dubai seemed quite long. I suppose I was pretty tired after a day that had involved a Land Rover, a Cessna 'Grand Caravan', a BAe 146 and a B777-300 plus plenty of walking.

The aircraft to Dubai had reclining seats but not the increasingly-common 'Lie-Flats'. Eventually, we landed at Dubai and, as usual, the huge terminal was packed with passengers. Even the Emirates lounge was pretty crowded but I found a relatively quiet spot where I managed to get my Notebook computer attached to the Wi-Fi and do a little work before moving to the departure gate for the final leg back to Birmingham. This time, the aircraft was a B777-300ER and I was pleased to find it had 'Lie-Flat' seats so I cheered up a bit, despite the prospect of another long flight.

As we 'Hold' at the entrance to the Active Runway at Dubai, a procession of departing aircraft follow.

Just as Dubai is one of the more improbable locations in the world, where an ultra-modern city has risen out of the sand, so the huge airport has been developed in the desert to become a major hub very quickly. If predicted growth is achieved, I believe Dubai airport will shortly overtake London as "the world's busiest airport", although there are various claims according to how you measure it. As always, there's an interesting Wikipedia article.

We taxied towards our runway but had to hold for a few minutes whilst the preceding departure took off. Already, three more Emirates aircraft were queuing behind us. The terminal itself was shrouded in haze but a long row of Emirates aircraft, all wide-bodied and modern, were visible.

After a short wait, we took off for an uneventful flight to Birmingham. I transferred by road home after a most remarkable trip.

A few pictures of Dubai Airport are here. There's a useful Wikipedia article here.

Out of Africa

Thursday, 1st March 2012

After just two nights at Vumbura Plains, it was time to leave - this time not for another Safari Camp but for the long journey home. Because of the Night Drive the previous night, I decided to miss the morning Game Drive and relax a little prior to the long journey. Sensible, but I missed a cheetah sighting.

The Land Rover was full at 10.50 a.m. when we left the Camp for the airstrip. Ona driving, me beside him in the front, a member of the management team going on leave with a member of staff to help out at the airstrip and the two French guests who were just travelling as far as Maun that day. We had a few sightings on the way, including three ostriches near the airstrip.

Three ostriches near the airstrip.

This time, it was the Cessna 'Grand Caravan' that swooped in to pick us up. This aircraft carries 12 passengers with their luggage in a 'pod' under the fuselage. For quick turnaround, the engine is kept running as the passengers leave and board the aircraft.

Cessna A2-EGL about to board passengers at Vumbura Plains airstrip.

The member of Camp Staff who travelled to the airstrip is responsible for positioning a barrier on the left side of the aircraft to keep passengers away from the danger area near the rotating propellor. He also places the landing steps next to the large rear door on the Port side. Of course, he also helps with luggage. We clamber aboard, the aircraft is closed up and the steps and barrier are wheeled away. The Pilot welcomes the 'Joiners' and explains that he will first call at Xigera airstrip before continuing to our destination Maun.

The Pilot welcomes 'Joiners' at Vumbura Plains.

Within a few minutes, the aircraft is airborne. After a flight of just over ten minutes, we land at Xigera where we take on, I think, five more passengers. We're only on the ground for about five minutes before taking-off again for our 20 minute flight to Maun.

Maun (usually said 'Ma-Oon', rather than 'Morn') has seen rapid growth and merits an entry in Wikipedia. After a few days in the Bush, the sight of so many buildings (mainly modern and prefabricated) was quite startling and the tarmac road with white line markings incredible. The runway at the airport had been extended and, of course, it was tarmac. We landed and it took us about five minutes to taxi to our stand, in amongst a number of other small aircraft.

Maun International Airport seen from our arriving Cessna.

The disembarking passengers either boarded a 'Golf Buggy' or walked about 200 yards in the hot sun to reach the modern terminal building. Baggage handlers followed with our bags in a truck. In the terminal building, I was re-united with my modest luggage and one of the baggage handlers pointed out the check-in counter for my flight to Johannesburg. Soon I was in possession of my boarding card and, retaining my bag with my computer, I started to wonder whether I'd get internet, as I had at Kasane airport. At that moment, a representative from Wilderness Safaris appeared. He said that there had formerly been a free Wi-Fi at the airport but it had been removed. He offered the use of the Wi-Fi at the Wilderness Safaris office, just a few minutes walk away.

Apparently, the town of Maun dates from 1915 when it was the centre of ranching and hunting operations with a 'Wild West Frontier Town' reputation. It's supposed to have lost that reputation but, despite the modern, low-rise buildings, I still thought it had that sort of feel. Wilderness Safaris had quite a large single-storey office complex, heavily air-conditioned. I didn't have a lot of time but, having connected to their Wi-Fi, I desperately tried to upload the text I'd pre-prepared since I'd been 'off the air' after leaving Kasane what seemed like months earlier. Then, saying 'Thank you' for the assistance, I hurried back to the airport to pass through immigration and security for the Air Botswana international flight to Johannesburg. This was operated by the BAe 146 - a small, 4-engined jet intended for fairly short 'legs' with short runways.

At O. R. Tambo, there was time to check in with Emirates and do some e-mails in the Emirates lounge before facing the seven and a half hour flight to Dubai in a B 777 - 300. I'd come full-circle - I looked out of the window of the Emirates Lounge and there, just a few hundred yards away, was the Protea Hotel I'd stopped at right at the beginning of my epic journey.

The Protea Hotel, O . R. Tambo, seen from the Emirates Lounge.

Photographs:

Leaving Vumbura Plains.
Flight to Maun.
O. R. Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg.

Vumbura Plains North (2)

Wednesday, 29th February 2012

After an early morning call a little after 5.30 a.m., I was collected at 6.00 a.m. and joined the 'convoy' of guests being collected for breakfast. The sun was just coming up over the swamps overlooked by the eating area. Shortly after 6.30 a.m. I set off on the morning drive with my guide Ona, accompanied by a young Boswanan lady auditor from DeLoitte's. The Wilderness Group make their accounts up to the end of February so the day of our drive was also the last day of the trading year.

We saw a number of stork, each perched near the top of a dead tree, giving the bird a good opportunity to spot prey below. A buffalo was mud bathing as we approached then he emerged to carry on munching grass. Nearby, there were two giraffe who, because of their height, have no competition for the leaves high in the trees. Later, we found a number of Tsessebe with their shiny, multi-hued hide. They are the fastest of all the antelopes but these were contentedly munching leaves nearer the ground.

One of the Tsessebe we found.

We stopped under the shade of a large tree in the centre of a large plain for a cup of tea and a biscuit. By the end of February, the waters are already rising and soon the whole area would be inundated. Then we looked at a group of six ostrich crossing the plain. There were three females (with grey feathers) and three male (with black feathers). They looked rather odd, wobbling out of sight in single file.

Another Land Rover had located part of a pack of wild dogs so, directed by radio messages, we went to have a look. We found five dogs, well concealed in long grass, avoiding the heat of the morning. From time to time, one or other animal would get up, look around, move slightly and lie down again. They looked very attractive with big eyes, mottled fur and huge, bat-like ears.

Wild Dogs are relentless hunters but are an Endangered Species in Botswana.

As we left the wild dogs to their slumbers, I heard a rumble that I at first thought was another Land Rover but which resolved itself as an aircraft apparently on approach to Vumbura Plains Airstrip. It was a Cessna 'Grand Caravan', the 12-passenger 'stretch' version of the classic Cessna single-engined high-wing monoplane.

We continued past a small pool with a number of species of birds around. A very young jackal walked past nearby, a spread-out group of handsome zebra continued to feed a few yards from a solitary buffalo and, not far away, a single elephant munched on grass. It's amazing that one sweep of the eye can see so many species co-existing.

A young Jackal.

Our route now took us across a deeply-rutted track where Ona was able to demonstrate his "Look No Hands" trick of letting go of the steering wheel and letting the vehicle steer itself in the deep ruts. This technique has been seriously refined for buses in at least one (expensive) scheme in the UK as a 'Guided Busway'.

By the time we reached to airstrip, the Cessna I'd seen landing was long gone, but there were still lots of people about. The logistical problems of running these camps doesn't just involve getting the guests in and out. The Botswanan staff are employed on the basis of a 3-month tour of duty followed by 1-month's leave to visit their families. Staff are flown in and out, just light the guests. The General Manager of Vumbura North and South was on hand at the airstrip, in a lemon yellow high visibility vest, to supervise the staff changeover when 39 staff were being flown home and an equivalent number would arrive.

A group of Botswanan staff going on leave wait for the aircraft which will take them home.

After Brunch, I repaired to my very spacious accommodation for a bit of relaxation and catching-up. At four, there was the usual Afternoon Tea. Following the morning departure of guests, there were just three of us remaining - a French lady with her adult son and myself. Rather than the game drive, I'd elected for the Canoe Trip. Historically, the local canoes - called "Mokoro" - were 'dug-outs', made by felling a suitable tree, dividing a length of trunk lengthwise and then shaping the features of a boat. Modern conservation practice abhors felling trees, of course, so I was amused to be told we'd be using fibreglass copies.

I discovered the French lady was also having the canoe trip so our Land Rover was quite full leaving camp - Ona driving, two guests and three camp staff. One member of staff was Boat Captain and Poler, one was a Poler but I'm not sure of the function of the third. We drove for the best part of an hour, Ona periodically stopping to explain
some of the animal tracks in the sand. Finding a Python track, I think Ona was a little disappointed when I accepted his invitation to join him outside the vehicle - apparently some guests are too frightened to descend from the vehicle. Ona also used the Land Rover as an impromptu classroom for the staff members, discussing the different grasses which are found and their suitability for thatching. Since the vehicle would self-steer reasonably well in the rutted sand, Ona delighted in releasing the wheel and turning to his 'class', whilst checking references in his guide to the Okavango species.

The impromptu classroom as the Land Rover steers itself.

Eventually, we arrived at a quiet stretch of lily-covered water with a simple wooden landing stage. A number of fibreglass canoes were stored upside-down nearby, together with long poles made from straight branches around two inches diameter stripped of bark. Three Mokoro were launched - the French guest and Poler in one, the Boat Captain and myself in the second and Ona with the other member of camp staff took turns poling the third. It was all very leisurely. Both guests were presented with a necklace, simply made from a water lily flower with a length of stalk split and knotted to form a 'chain'. We stopped to look at Reed Frogs, each clinging to a reed, a little above the water. They only grow to one or two inches in length but, at night and in large numbers, they kick up a furious racket with their calling.

This silver-coloured Reed Frog is only about one inch long.

We were moving in clear, shallow water perhaps two or three feet deep. At one point, the Boat Captain pointed out a circular hole in the sandy lake bottom - a 'nest' in which one fish (Tilapia, I think) lays her eggs before covering them over and leaving them.

A neatly-excavated fish nest.

We spent a very pleasant hour on the water. The tranquility was wonderful and I was sorry when we made our way back to the landing place, pausing for photographs before making 'landfall'.

Jan and the Boat Captain.

After an hour stretched out in the flat-bottomed boat, I had a bit of trouble getting limbs to work so that I could get out but, once vertical, I was fine. As the sun went down, a little before seven, we paused for the 'Sundowner'. I think we were all on soft drinks apart from the French guest.

Sunset at the Landing Place.

It was starting to get dark on the journey back to Camp. We passed a group of zebra, eyes reflecting the flash from my camera as I recorded them splashing through water. As it became fully dark, Ona used the powerful red-filtered electric hand lamp I described in an earlier post. The lamp caught two heavy forms padding out of the Bush towards us - two Spotted Hyenas. We stopped and, as the one Hyena made a closer inspection of our vehicle, I took the picture below. As usual, the animals showed mild curiosity but no fear.

A Spotted Hyena makes a closer inspection of our Land Rover.

I arrived back at Vumbura Plains North tired but happy. A little after eight in the evening, we assembled for our last dinner, prepared by the resident chef Wayne (who hailed from near Oxford). The manager of the Vumbura Camps joined us for dinner (he originated in Scunthorpe).

I'd agreed with Ona that my last activity would be a Night Drive and we set off a little after 9.30 p.m. for an enchanting three hours in the Bush. I didn't attempt any photography on this trip. I'd been warned that Night Drives are often not very 'productive' and so it proved but can you imagine the atmosphere out in the Bush, miles from anywhere, especially when stopped, headlights out and engine off to listen for any alarm calls from animals or birds? There is no 'light pollution' so the dark sky offers a vivid canopy of bright stars. We were south of the Equator so the Constellations were largely unfamiliar to me. Later in our drive, the moon began to cast an eerie, grey light over the proceedings.

Even in the darkness, I was surprised at the number of birds still flying. Most (not all) were Nightjars. As their name suggests, they are a nocturnal species. In addition to monitoring the various animal tracks, trackers listen carefully to bird and animal calls. An Alarm Call from a certain animal may give a clue to the position of a night predator, for instance a leopard. Ona was also using the powerful red-filtered hand lamp to scan the surrounding area. We found plenty of leopard tracks and buffalo tracks but not the animals themselves.

We'd been following Hyena tracks for a while when the lamp caught a single, bulky shape emerging from the Bush on our left - a Spotted Hyena. We immediately stopped and the Hyena walked to the front of the Land Rover. The lower part of the front pushes all the long grass out of the way when moving so I supposed that it had gathered all sorts of interesting scents during our travels. The Hyena spent some time studying the lower front, seeming to confirm my assumption. Then, the animal raised itself up so that its head appeared above the bonnet and its large eyes seemed to lock with mine. For what seemed an age, but was probably just tens of seconds, we regarded one another. Now, all the guides seemed to agree that, provided you stay within the outline of the vehicle, wildlife will not recognise you as separate from the vehicle itself. But, particularly after this soundless mutual contemplation, I find it hard to accept that the animals are unaware of what they're looking at. The Hyena then lowered himself and walked along the left side of the vehicle. Apparently satisfied with his inspection, he then turned away and unhurridly plodded back into the Bush from which he had appeared. I found it a remarkable meeting.

We made out way back to Camp and I decided that it might be prudent to miss the early game drive the next day as it was also the day of my long journey returning to the U.K.

Photographs:

Vumbura Plains Safari Camp.
Vumbura Plains: Game Drive 2.
Vumbura Plains Mokoro Trip.

Vumbura Plains North

Tuesday, 28th February 2012

Well, I reached Vumbura Plains safely around 3.00 p.m. and checked into the very lavish accommodation. I discovered that Vumbura Plains has two separate Camps (North and South) a few hundred yards apart. Each Camp is self-contained, apart from sharing a single Souvenir Shop which is situated halfway along the boardwalk which interconnects the two Camps. My accommodation was in the North Camp but I did take a walk to the Souvenir Shop and the South Camp before I left. In general, the building style is less Ethnic and more architect-designed but everything is provided to a high standard.

My room was similar to the others. It was approached by its own spur boardwalk off the main boardwalk. A tall wooden fence with a door ensured the privacy of the large area of decking to the side of the room itself. This decking had a covered seating area and a plunge pool all overlooking the swampland. The walls of the large, thatched room were, for the most part, either clear plastic or fine mesh. At night, the staff rolled down blinds on the outside of the building. The room itself featured a sunken seating area facing the swampland, a large bed, a generous shower area, a pair of wash hand basins and a separate cubicle with a water closet. Internal curtains could be used to provide privacy to the occupants around the washing areas. There was also a dressing area with extensive racking along one side covered by curtains to act as a wardrobe. A second area of decking could be reached by a door near the wash hand basins and this area featured an outside shower. This bare list of the accommodation doesn't do justice to the quality of the fittings and the obvious care which was taken in construction. It was all very impressive and comfortable.

My room at Vumbura Plains.

Having briefly sampled the features of my room, I returned to the central area for afternoon tea before setting out for a Game Drive with a few guests and Ona, our guide. A number of the tracks we used were flooded and we forded long sections where the clear, unpolluted water came almost to the top of the tyres. All the guides seem to have a lot of confidence in the Land Rover. After a while, we came to a family of Elephants, moving through the Bush in their normal, unhurried fashion. Then, I saw my first Blue Wildebeest - or, rather, my first couple of dozen Wildebeest for they are gregarious animals and tend to congregate in herds in fairly open country where they graze on short grasses.

The Blue Wildebeest.

A little later, we watched a small herd of Impala. While most grazed quietly, two males were locking horns in what appeared to be a fairly ritualised contest for they soon disengaged and carried on grazing. On another flooded section, a Hamerkop was standing motionless in the shallows, intently peering at the water. They will stand like this for ages, waiting for frogs or other aquatic life which they prey on. The bird took no notice of us as our wheels passed within a few inches and, as I looked back, he was still there.

A Hamerkop standing motionless in the shallows.

It quickly became quite dark as we were returning to the Camp around a quarter to seven. The Land Rovers carry a powerful electric lamp (500,000 Candles, I think) which the guides plug in when necessary. To avoid distracting the wildlife, a red filter is fitted. The lamp is hand-held and the technique is to sweep the beam from left to right ahead of the vehicle, paying particular attention to trees where there may be all sorts of creatures. If the beam passes the face of an animal, two bright "cat's eyes" appear, even if the details of the body are hidden. Gear-changing becomes something of a problem when the lamp is in use, usually resulting in the driver using one hand for the lamp, one for the gear lever and letting the vehicle steer itself. Ona had been following Leopard tracks and suddenly the animal we'd been tracking loomed up out of the darkness of the Bush. The animal didn't seem disturbed by us, even when I took (not very good) photographs with a flash. Finally, I took a couple of pictures using the powerful red-filtered lamp.

The Leopard, illuminated by the hand-held lamp on the Land Rover.

They're handsome creatures and it seemed appropriate to meet up in the dark, which is when they do their hunting. I found it a moving encounter and a fitting climax to our game drive. Then, it was Dinner and Bed prior to a busy following day, as usual.

Photographs:

Vumbura Plains Safari Camp.
Vumbura Plains: Game Drive 1.

On to Vumbura Plains

Tuesday, 28th February 2012

Following the usual early start, I had a final morning drive at King's Pool with my guide Od (said 'Oh-Dee'). This resulted in the usual sightings of birds, Impala and Elephants. We visited the injured Hippopotamus who had finally died, prompting more musings about life and death in the Bush. Later, at one of the green-covered Pans, I was amused to see a group of Whitefaced Duck apparently standing to attention.

A group of Whitefaced Ducks apparently standing to attention in the slime-covered shallows of a Water Hole.

Od followed Leopard footmarks in the sand of the track we were on and, sure enough, we eventually came to a leopard part-hidden in the grass, enjoying the morning sunshine and completely ignoring our arrival. We spent a little while studying the handsome animal from different viewpoints and eventually he raised himself, to display the complex markings which are called 'rosettes' (rather than 'spots'). At first, we thought he was going to move away but then he sank down into the grass again for some more relaxation.

The Leopard displays his streamlined profile and the variety of 'rosette' markings.

The variety of game was amazing. We passed Giraffe, Zebra, Elephants and had an encounter with a playful group of young wild dogs. Although they tend to sleep during the day, they were forever getting up, playing with other group members for a while, and then settling down again. At one of the Pans, we found a single Hippopotamus. Even the small Pans are often the daytime home of a Hippo.

Two of the group of Wild Dogs.

Our route back to the Camp took us past Chobe airstrip where we found Cessna A2-BOK 'tied down'. This was the aircraft that had brought a DeLoitte auditor to King's Pool as part of the end-of-year audit. I'd seen the auditor and his Pilot overnighting at the Camp. I discovered that Chobe airstrip was provided with a W.C. (connected to a septic tank) and washing facilities. I liked the improbable nature of a flush toilet out in the Bush and, of course, couldn't resist recording the facilities on film. Near the Camp, we came across another family group (male, female, youngster) of Elephant. They had clearly been for water as the splash marks on their hides revealed.

Elephant Mother and Baby.

After my usual Brunch, I said my farewells at this very friendly Camp and at noon Od drove me to the airstrip for my transfer to my final Camp on this tour, Vumbura Plains.

The Cessna 206 turned up on time but already had three passengers - apparently a middle-class Indian family with the sari-clad wife seated up the front with the pilot, and the husband in a business suit next to his long-haired teenage daughter in jeans and T-shirt in the middle row. The rear row of seats already seemed overful with their large, black solid-framed suitcases. The friendly pilot shuffled their luggage about so that there was just room for me to take up a rather cramped position next to the cases. I always read the safety instructions in an aircraft, even if it's a type I'm familiar with, and I was surprised to find that, this time, I was travelling with Mack Air as my previous flights in the Okavango had been with Wilderness Air. I learned that there is some co-operation between the companies to minimise the number of movements. The Okavango from the air is a fascinating area, with many contrasts. There are trees, bushes, numerous clearly-visible animal tracks and Pans of standing water.

Aerial view of one of the many circular 'Pans', surrounded by trees.

Our 30-minute flight took us to Stanley's Airstrip - a rather temporary-looking affair. This was the destination for the other three passengers. A Land Rover from the Sanctuary Retreat was waiting to meet them and their luggage. I didn't know Sanctuary Retreats but apparently they opened their first luxury lodge in Kenya in 1999 and now operate a number of camps in Africa in addition to expedition cruises.

Final approach to the airstrip at Stanley's.

Once all the luggage had been transferred and I was happily installed in the front right seat, we took off for Vumbura Plains - a flight of about twenty minutes over a diverse landscape of bush and watercourses. The airstrip at Vumbura didn't look much more permanent than Stanley's. Being used to major airports with hard-edged tarmac runways, the strips of bare sand with ragged edges as the grass attempts to subdue the sand looked rather odd, but they seemed to work well enough.

At the airstrip, I was met by my guide for Vumbura Plains, Ona (say 'Oh-Narr') and we set off to the Camp. It took around an hour to get there but we were rewarded by a host of sightings including birds, a Kudu, Impala, Warthogs. We met a group of at least five zebra. I couldn't help thinking that they looked like horses with a very extrovert paint job. We also saw Giraffe and a herd of at least a dozen Buffalo.

A group of Zebras with a Warthog trotting away in the background.

Photographs:

King's Pool: Game Drive 5.
From King's Pool to Vumbura Plains.

King's Pool (3)

Monday, 27th February 2012

At King's Pool (I noted Wilderness Safaris don't seem to use the apostrophe), morning wake-up call comes at 5.30 a.m. and you are collected at 6.0 a.m. Walking to the main building complex, I could see that it was lighter than on previous days at that hour. Good weather seemed in prospect. I had a light 'Early Breakfast' and was ready to depart at 6.30 a.m.

It took me some time to complete this post, but it goes along the lines of "Jan looks at a lot of animals and birds".

There were three Land Rover lined up when we left - two of them were to accommodate a group of travel agents who'd arrived the previous afternoon. They had their own programme which included a visit by road to Savuti Camp. Od took the American couple and the writer to find more game. Our track came to a triangular junction where a family of Warthogs (male, female, four young) were just coming out of the 'side road'. They walked ahead of us for some distance, completely unconcerned at our presence. We followed them slowly, until they turned off our route and took a smaller track leading through the Bush.

The family of Warthogs turned off our route and continued on a smaller track into the Bush.

We came across a couple of male Impala 'sparring' but it seemed rather ritualised and they soon disengaged. Nearby, there were about fifteen female Impala. Next, we found another family of Warthogs on the move, this time displaying "Follow me" with their tails. A number of birds were by a tranquil Pan, including what I think was a Tawny Eagle, keeping watch from high in a dead tree. I managed to get a few shots of a male Common Waterbuck displaying the distinctive broad white ring on the rump. Then we passed group of three Ostrich, hurrying about their business, the single male with black plumage, the two females with grey.

Three Ostriches.

Somehow, Od spotted a Leopard Tortoise almost invisible lying in the sun-spattered grass. As we moved on, we saw four more Ostrich. Od had been driving towards a group of Vultures which could see circling lazily high in the sky. Near a fallen tree, there were a number of Vultures on the ground, feeding on an at first unrecognisable carcass. It appeared to be an Impala and Od suggested that it was most probably a Leopard kill from earlier in the day. Having eaten what he could, he'd probably dragged the remains near to the fallen tree, with a view to returning later. But the scavengers had spotted the carcass and, in their feeding frenzy, were efficiently disposing of the remains. Od pointed out that this prevented flesh from becoming rotten and helped to prevent the spread of disease. A Bateleur, an eagle with a stocky appearance and a short tail, watched the proceedings from a nearby tree as the various Vultures justled around the carcass.

Vultures feeding on an earlier 'Kill'.

We left the Vultures to it and carried on, to stop again at a Mudhole where a family of Warthogs were plastering themselves liberally. Do you remember the Flanders and Swann lyric (not dedicated to Warthogs) "Mud, Mud, Glorious Mud, Nothing quite like it for cooling the Blood...". It may look amusing to see Warthogs streaked in mud but, of course, they adopt the practice for strictly practical reasons.

"Mud, Mud, Glorious Mud".

We were on our way back to Camp now. We paused to watch a group of about twenty Impala and watch the antics of a nearby troop of Chacma baboon before arriving back at King's Pool, ready for our Brunch.

In the late afternoon, we set off once again with our guide Od to see what animals could be seen. On a broad plain, we came upon a family group of elephants, contentedly grazing. I never tire of watching elephants. They are improbable-looking creatures but, like most species in the wild, radiate a natural dignity. Although such large animals are capable of wreaking considerable havoc if so minded, they generally appear quite peaceable. My reaction is normally one of wonderment, not fear.

Adult elephant in the afternoon sun.

It's the variety of wildlife and the juxtaposition of different species that I found so impressive in the Okavango. Soon after watching the elephants, we came upon a female Common Waterbuck with her single youngster.

A female Common Waterbuck with her single youngster.

As we passed through a wetter area, we spotted a Water Monitor, with its elongated snout, scurrying through the grass. Od decided to return to the area where we'd watched the vultures in the morning. The birds had moved on and only a few bones and a little fur remained.

The remains of the morning's 'kill'.

Od was now following recent lion tracks and shortly after passing a group of giraffe, we found three lions stretched out and enjoying the afternoon sun. They took no interest in the approach of our Land Rover - yawning seemed to be their most pressing concern.

Lions enjoying the afternoon sun.

After a few minutes, the older lioness stretched, got up and set off along the track we were on. The other two lions followed. They appeared in no great hurry as we slowly followed.

Three lions walking, with our Land Rover bringing up the rear.

After walking for about ten minutes, the lions lay down again - this time right in the middle the track. We watched, fascinated, for some time but it was clear that the lions though it was still far to warm to do other than occasionally move a few feet to find a different spot to relax.

Od turned the vehicle round and we set off back towards the Camp. The encounter with the three lions had lasted three quarters of an hour. Od took us to the river bank for the 'Sundowner' drink, passing a group of Chacma Baboons on the way. It was just after 7.00 p.m. and getting dark as we stood on the river bank, carefully watched from the other side of the river by a single hippopotamus, almost submerged in the water. Then it was back to Camp and prepare for our evening meal.

Photographs:

King's Pool Safari Camp.
King's Pool: Game Drive 3.
King's Pool: Game Drive 4.