Cruising downstream on the 'Road to Mandalay'

Thursday 27th August 2009

Where was I? In the last episode, we’d just walked round the delightful ‘Pottery Village’ and then we took the coach back to the dock. We were there for 9:30 a.m., because the ship was due to set sail at 10:00 a.m. for Bagan. I was not altogether surprised when Captain Myo Lwin cast off a little early around 9:45 – a good captain is only happy when his ship is under way and his ship has been unable to ply ‘The Road to Mandalay’ in Kipling’s famous phrase describing the river for so many months.

Around 40 Orient Express ‘Logistics Staff’ and others watched from the dock as the ‘Road to Mandalay’ gently moved away from the dock and pivoted to place the bow downstream (the Voith-Sneider propulsion system makes the ship very manoeverable). There is a pagoda just downsteam of the dock and the captain first pointed the ship towards the pagoda and made the appropriate obeisance to ensure a safe journey. The TV crew, of course, were collecting pictures of the departure.

When the ship is moored at the berth, hinging booms are deployed into the river bed to hold the ship steady. Once raised vertically into the sailing position, a member of the crew, wearing a safety harness, set about cleaning and repainting the discoloured ends of the booms. Buffet lunch was served on the top deck and the weather remained hot. I spent some time on the bridge, at the invitation of the Captain and we chatted about many topics. In the afternoon there was a demonstration of Thanaka, the creamy, natural make-up made from the Thanaka tree. One of the girls on the staff applied Thanaka in a pretty, leaf-shaped design to the cheeks of the ladies who wanted to participate. The Longyi is the traditional lower garment available in versions for men and women and guests were shown how to wear these. From mid-afternoon, afternoon tea was served in the Piano Bar and this was followed by a lecture on Myanmar’s racial groups.

The ship continued downstream and moored midstream around sunset, pointing the bow upstream and dropping the anchors. In the early evening, a ‘Longyi Cocktail Party’ took place on the Top Deck as a prelude to full dinner in the Restaurant. We were a small but very varied band of passengers and I was surprised how quickly new friendships developed. Various nationalities, from solitary travellers like myself to parties of four, all seemed to get on very well. Pictures of the cruise downstream.

The evening terminated in a ‘Surprise on the River’. Around 2,000 tiny rafts, each carrying a lighted candle and some fitted with a coloured paper screen to produce varied colours, floated down the river towards us from upstream where, hidden in the darkness, local villagers retained by ‘Road to Mandalay’ lit and launched the craft from a number of boats positioned across the river. The emotion as these lights came towards us, embraced the ship some passing on the one side some on the other then disappearing into the darkness downstream, is hard to describe. As the passengers made their way to bed (or to the Piano Bar for late-night drinks), there were many moist eyes at the beauty of the effect.

Friday 28th August 2009

We were due to set sail at 6.30 a.m., so I ordered morning tea in my cabin for six. It arrived promptly but by the time I was ready to greet the day, the ship was already continuing downstream. My previous trip on this river had been in the dry season when, in places, there was barely enough water for a ship as large as ‘Road to Mandalay’ even though she is flat-bottomed and designed originally for river cruising. This trip is in the Rainy Season where the river level can be tens of feet higher and all the adjacent flatland is inundated. The river water brings precious soil nutrients in suspension and this natural fertilisation allows farmers to produce up to three crops a year. Breakfast was served with the usual flair in the restaurant and, before 9.00 a.m., we had moored midstream opposite a simple landing stage near Old Bagan, ready for our visit ashore.

A number of local motor boats came out from the shore to act as ‘Tenders’. The ship carries its own handrailed gangway which can be lowered almost to water level to allow passengers an easy transfer from the ship’s reception area to the small boats. Passengers going ashore were then divided into a number of small groups by ‘preferred language’ and each group had its own tour guide. The boats are wooden, built in a traditional style. They have a rudder for steering and a Chinese-made small diesel engine driving a long shaft terminated in a conventional screw propellor. The engine mount has limited movement, to allow the prop to be lifted clear of the water but, unlike Thai ‘longtail boats’, the tiller is used as well. The diesel engines have no electric start so a crank handle is inserted and turned furiously to get them to ‘fire-up’.

We were soon ashore and climbing the path leading up the river bank to the Plain of Bagan. In addition to crowds of locals just interested in the re-starting of the ‘Road to Mandalay’ cruises, we were mobbed by dozens of souvenir sellers, many quite young. A series of wooden-wheeled horse-drawn carts were waiting for us and we divided ourselves between these vehicles, two per cart, and set off in convoy down the main track of compressed sand. Whereas in most places a horse-drawn taxi would be retained for the tourists, here in Bagan they are the standard ‘Taxi’ used by residents. At most major road junctions, there are usually a couple of these carts parked under a shading tree waiting to be hired. I found myself sharing a horse taxi with Franz, the Country Manager from Orient-Express, on a fact-finding expedition. He commented that what should have been a magical experience, quietly moving past the dozens of small pagodas in our horse carts was marred by being followed by a number of noisy motor cycles and bicycles used by the more-determined souvenir sellers. The motor bikes can continue to sell even as you are moving – the rider keeps station next to the cart whilst the pillion passenger displays the goods on offer and gives the ‘patter’ about the quality and value. Longyi, jewellery, bangles, pictures, lacquerware and other craft items are all for sale. We passed the famous Ananda Temple and left our horse carts outside the Sulamani temple, where there were more souvenir sellers, some with very elaborate stalls extending right up to the temple precinct. Only once we entered the temple, in bare feet, did the hubbub of the souvenir sellers recede and we could listen to the descriptions given by our various guides.

Our tour buses had followed us to the temple so after we had emerged and run the gauntlet of the souvenir-sellers, we boarded the buses for a journey of a few miles to the revered Shwezigon Pagoda. After walking round this large temple complex, there was a long arcade of souvenir sellers before we boarded the buses for the journey back to the boat. We paused for a fascinating visit to the ‘Everstand’ lacquerware workshop where the owner ‘Mister Moustache’ explained in detail the making of lacquerware before conducting us around the site to look at the processes in detail. A modern showroom displayed the vast range of articles produced in lacquerware and, with no pressure to buy, our group seemed far more willing to purchase souvenirs. At the landing stage, we negotiated the waiting sellers and took the motor boats back to the ship moored mid-channel. It looked very elegant in the bright sunshine. Once again, buffet lunch was provided on the top deck.

At 2.30 p.m. we were off again by bus. Our first stop was the Dhamma Ya Zika Pagoda. Then, we moved on to a village where we were allowed to look into the house of a land-owning family. The old grandmother was spinning cotton on a fairly crude spinning wheel. Another family member was preparing the cotton to be woven on a hand loom. Photographs of young people obtaining their degrees were displayed on the wooden framing for a mezzanine floor where the children sleep. We moved on to a riverside Pagoda and then looked around the Ananda Temple before our final call – the upper terraces of the so-called ‘Sunset Pagoda’ to watch the sunset. Our TV crew were also on hand to record the event. The surprise for me was when a teenage boy came up and said “Remember me?” and it was my ‘chaperone’ from my bike ride on my first visit to Bagan. In a while, we were joined by his younger brother. They both said we should repeat the bike trip. Although I’d had the same idea myself, I said that I would have to check first, so the elder boy gave me a scrap of paper with name and a mobile number which could be used to make arrangements. Then it was back to the ship, still patiently waiting mid-stream. Exploring Bagan.

Dinner was a farewell meal as some passengers were booked one-way only (Mandalay – Bagan) and would leave the ship the following morning. Other guests were due to join the ship for the return cruise to Mandalay. Following the Farewell Dinner, there was a puppet show using traditional Myanmar marionettes.

The Ayerwaddy Revisited

I write this, in haste, at the end of a hectic week in the Union of Myanmar (which used to be called Burma). The easiest way into and out of Burma is probably by flying between Bangkok and Yangon (which used to be 'Rangoon' hence the airline ticketing code 'RGN').

Tuesday 25th August 2009

I had a good flight from Bangkok to Yangon with Thai Airways. It's only an hour from take-off to landing but they manage to serve a decent cold meal. It was almost dark as we came 'over the fence' at Yangon but I spotted an anti-clockwise diesel-hauled Circle Line train starting away from the nearly station. As we approached the international terminal, I noticed that the blue illuminated sign read 'YANGON INTER...NAL AIRPORT'. I had carefully completed all the required arrival forms before we landed but somehow managed to lose the special 'Influenza' medical form they use between the aircraft and the arrival hall. By the time I'd filled in a replacement, I was well down the queue for immigration but I got through without further incident, retrieved my bag and was waved through customs. I soon met Mr. Win, the 'Road To Mandalay' guide from the last trip and, together with a lady from Sydney (joining a party of ladies to celebrate the 50th birthday of one of them by taking the 'Road to Mandalay' cruise) we set off in a 'People Carrier' for the Strand Hotel. I received a warm welcome from the staff and, after a brief look at the room and making arrangements for an early call and breakfast, went to look for the internet.

Google Mail seemed to work but I was not altogether surprised to find that I could neither write to nor read blogs. Suddenly a 'Chat' window opened with 'Nyi Lwin' calling. When he identified his location as Mandalay, I realised it was the helpful Shipping Agent who'd helped me on my last trip. "I'll be in Mandalay tomorrow", I sent. "Really?" came the incredulous reply. "Really", I confirmed. So he left me his mobile number to enable me to make contact.

Wednesday 26th August 2009

I slept well in the huge bed but had to get up at 4.45 a.m. My alarm call was on time, breakfast in my room was exactly as ordered so I was ready to leave at 5.45 a.m. when Maung Win, the guide, arrived. The ten miles to the airport was quickly covered and boarding cards were ready for us. Nicholas, from the Orient Express office in Yangon, was on hand and San, one of the guides from my first trip on 'Road to Mandalay'. I learned that Mr. Win was also flying to Mandalay with us to act as one of the cruise guides. We chatted for a minute before I went into the departure hall. It's a little basic in Domestic Departures so I was quite pleased when our flight was called. We were loaded onto a non-air conditioned transfer bus for the very short journey onto the apron where our Yangon Airways ATR 72-210 waited. This is an advanced turbo-prop design with 2+2 seating.

It took about 75 minutes to fly north to Mandalay at 20,000 feet. We landed using very little of Mandalay's runway (the longest in south east Asia), took the high-speed turn-off and had soon parked on the apron. Again, a bus took us the short distance to the large, deserted terminal. We made our way outside to the car park and the 'Road to Manadalay' contingent boarded two (or was it three?) buses. Win was guide on our bus, San took another and Mi Mi, the German speaking guide, a third. We didn't go straight to the boat. We headed for the area of Amarapura and the market at Tagundaing. We wandered around crowded market, greeted by friendly smiles from the curious locals. Market pictures. A short drive took us to nearby Maha Ganda Yong teaching monastery. This is a large establishment, currently under extension, where young trainees abide by the ten Rules of Conduct of the order founded by the Venerable Janakabhivamsa:-

FIRST: To have a kindly disposition.
SECOND: To observe the Monastic Code of Discipline.
THIRD: To keep good health.
FOURTH: To keep clean.
FIFTH: To know how to dress.
SIXTH: To know how to behave.
SEVENTH: To kow how to talk.
EIGHTH: To know how to behave.
NINTH: To obey the rules.
TENTH: To be literate.

We briefly looked at the kitchens where men were engaged in preparing the huge amounts of food consumed by the monks and trainees. The first bell sounded for the second (and last) meal of the day at noon and people started to form up in two queues. At the second bell, the queues moved quickly as food was served and people took their seats in the refectory. In a surprisingly short time, the food was eaten, the food bowls washed (a task which monks must personally attend to) and people were streaming back to continue their studies. Monastery pictures.

It was only a short drive from the monastery to the 'Road to Mandalay' dock at Shwe Kyet Yet. Externally, the ship looked the same but internally significant changes have been made and the cabins have been completely remodelled. They have retained around 80% of the original staff so, for me, it was like a homecoming. The Captain and the Ship's Doctor were there in uniform to welcome the guests with Esther the hotel manager and a host of faces I instantly recognised. A German film crew was present - I learned that they would accompany us on the journey so as to make a travel documentary and promotional DVD for Orient Express. Within moments, I was led to my room a few yards from the reception desk. No expense has been spared in offering passengers an attractive ambience in which to spend a few days. The not-unpleasant smell of new paint was detectable because this trip will be a 'Maiden Voyage'. Technically, this is the third such voyage - the first was in Germany in 1964 where the ship operated on the Rhine, the second when she was inaugurated as 'Road to Manadalay' on the Ayerwaddy River (which the English called the 'Irrawaddy' and now this trip, following repairs after the damage sustained during Cyclone Nargis. For this 'shakedown cruise', only around thirty passengers are being carried soth and about 40 returning north, against a capacity of 82. There was time to tour the facilities and chat with crew and passengers before a buffet lunch was served. I then spent some time with the Doctor, discussing his experiences doing medical charity work following the Cyclone, before setting off with Maung Win in a coach to look at Mandalay City. The energetic Country Manager of Orient Express in Myanmar, Franz Von Merhart, was on the ship for this first cruise and he accompanied us on this and a number of tours.

First stop was the ‘Street of the Marble Carvers’. The ship had managed to get in touch with Nyi Lwin who’d arranged some shipping for me on my last trip and I’d been given a shop number where he’d be. While Mr. Win showed the group some of the products on offer, I walked ahead looking for shop numbers. Suddenly, someone spoke to me – “I’m who you’re looking for” and it was Nyi Lwin. His wife came out of the shop with their lovely eight-month old daughter and we chatted for a few minutes until the tour group caught up with us. When I held their daughter, she laid her head on my chest and seemed quite comfortable. I was reluctant to hand her back and say goodbye.

Nearby, we could hear local instruments and singing amplified electronically. A ‘Spirit Dance’ was in progress. The musical line-up included one of the huge, round percussion instruments in which the player sits inside and there were a number of dancers snaking around in the limited space. Somewhat deafened, we climbed back on our bus.

Next stop was the famous Mahamuni Temple, which is always crowded with worshippers and has a long arcade of stalls. Franz was concerned at the juxtaposition of the sacred and the mundane and felt that some of his customers might be disturbed at what they saw.

We moved to a small gold leaf workshop. Whereas most gold leaf is now made by machine, in Myanmar the traditional, labour-intensive manual process is still found where the timing of each period of beating is carried out by a simple ‘water clock’ where half of a coconut shell with a small timing hole sits in a bowl of water. The shell fills with water until it is no longer buoyant – the sudden sinking of the shell indicates the end of the timing period. In another room, ladies cut the finished gold leaf into squares and stack them, each square interleaved with paper, for sale. A nearby shop displayed various snakeskins and animal skins used for making belts and similar items. Distasteful as I find the trade, I cannot be superior since I wear leather shoes.

Another drive in our coach took us to ‘The World’s Largest Book’, as accepted by the Guiness Book of Superlatives. The Kuthodaw Pagoda features line upon line of small white-painted pagodas, each carrying a page of Buddhist scripture engraved on a stone tablet.

Pictures of ‘The World’s Largest Book’.

By the time we reached the famous wooden Shwenandaw Monastery, it had already closed for the day so, after studying the ancient structure from outside the enclosing wall, we drove through the city and south back to Amarapura, site of the famous Ubain Bridge across the lake. This bridge is built of teak and is, I believe, 1.4 km in length. Last time I was here, I took a small boat cruise on the lake, criss-crossing under the bridge. This time, I determined to walk on the bridge so I set off at a good pace. I was not sure whether the time allowed would let me complete the crossing and return. A 14-year old girl attached herself to me and together we crossed the bridge. She proudly explained that she was a Monitor at school. She will go far – we’d walked over 1 km before she revealed that she was selling necklaces and it was clear that she intended to do the complete 2.8 km trek in order to close a deal. We made it to dry land on the far side of the bridge, having agreed a sale. For the return journey, a younger girl, aged around 11, joined us. By the time we were back at the coach, I had purchased three necklaces, impressed with the efforts that these young people are prepared to expend to make a sale. As it became dark, we returned to the ship for dinner. After dinner, we were entertained by a Yamayana play dramatising traditional Hindu epic adventures of Yama.

Thursday 27th August 2009

I ordered early morning tea in my cabin, intending to leave at 6:40 a.m. to see the offering of Alms to the monks at the local Monastery. Mr. Win led a small party across the main road and to the monastery where the Captain and members of the crew had set up a table of food. The monks were lining up to receive the food and the film crew were on hand to record the event.

Pictures of the Alms Giving.

We returned on foot to the ship, to leave again soon after to drive to a nearby village which is involved in making pottery. Walking along the dusty track through the village, watched by curious children and passed by occasional bullock carts, we were transported to a totally different way of life. Various pottery artefacts were laid outside the bamboo houses to dry in the sun. We were intrigued by row after row of closed jars with a straight slot near the top – these are money boxes, smaller ones for children, larger, more decorated ones for older people saving for their retirement.

Although I've visited Myanmar twice before, this country retains the power to amaze and delight. I'll tell you more of my experiences on this trip next time.

A morning in Bangkok

I started the day with breakfast on the terrace at my hotel. It's hot, just how I like it. The river teems with ferries, longtail boats and the noisy tugs dragging their trains of massive barges up and down the river. After breakfast, I take the hotel ferry to nearby Saphan Taksin where a short walk gets me to the overhead 'Skytrain'. I ride the 'Skytain' to Sala Daeng. Here an overhead walkway leads a few hundred yards to Silom where I go underground to catch the mass transit to Hua Lumphong.

This, gentle reader, is the location of Bangkok's main railway station. My firm was involved in the supply of a lot of equipment to GEC for use on the railways throughout Thailand so I can rarely resist the instinct to visit this station when I'm in Bangkok. After watching the operation of this busy terminus for a while, I retraced my route to Saphan Taksin.

I had determined to take a trip on the river and ended up on the 11:00 a.m. express tourist boat which I took upstream past Wat Pho and Grand Palace to the terminus, returning on the same boat. The express tourist boat seems to make conditional stops as required and appears to be used by quite a few Thais. I indicated my desire to alight at the 'Oriental' Public Landing Stage and was amused when the deck hand pushed a bell push once to alert the captain. The public landing stage leads to a street lined with the makeshift street restaurants used by Thais which is just a few minutes walk from the hotel. The public landing stage is used by various river taxi services and a well-patronised public cross-river ferry - the hotel's private ferries use a private landing stage on hotel land. At 11:50 a.m. I was back on dry land and soon back in my room, preparing to check-out (oh, and uploading a few more photographs). At 2.15 p.m. I left the hotel by car for transfer to the airport. The journey was much quicker than in the opposite direction yesterday morning (was it only yesterday morning? It seems much longer to me!). Check-in and passport control was very fast then I walked to the Thai lounge nearest my departure gate. I was ready for a light snack and a drink but I was also delighted that my computer immediately connected to the Thai 'Wi-Fi' so that I could post this whilst waiting for my flight to Yangon.

My pictures of Bangkok (taken on various visits) are here.

Back to Bangkok

Jet Airways operated a Boeing 777-300ER (Extended Range) on the Heathrow - Mumbai leg, powered by two huge turbo-fans. Their 'Premiere' class has a layout I've not seen before, a sort of 1-2-1 layout where each seat is an aisle seat. Each seat is angled inwards, facing forward, and has its own 'cubicle' for privacy. The window seats give a fairly limited view out, because of the angling.

The 'cubicle' features a hinging, swing-out video touch screen, which can also be controlled from the usual handset). The telephone part of the handset has a full 'QWERTY' keyboard. Services are 'on demand'. The film choice was not as large as some airlines but I decided to watch the 'Startrek XI' prequel since it had received good reviews. I found it an excellent 'yarn' and the casting of the young crew members was very convincing. The production values are quite different from any other 'Startrek' I've seen but it was very entertaining ("It's Startrek, Jim, but not as we know it."). Leonard Nimoy has a role as the time-travelling elderly Spock.

Back in the 'real world' (if you can regard travelling at six hundred miles an hour in a metal tube five miles above the Earth 'real'), cabin service was excellent and the meal was nicely presented. We were a few miutes late into Mumbai because of air traffic delays on the approach. We disembarked via an air bridge and transit passengers for Hong Kong and Bangkok were called aside whilst the other passengers made their way off the aircraft. Transit passengers were then conducted on the usual long walk through featureless corridors until we arrived at a security station where we were divided into two long queues of transit passengers (men and women separated) to have our hand luggage X-rayed and ourselves metal-detected and hand searched. This took about forty minutes but, once again, the security staff seemed friendly. After a final check of our pre-issued boarding pass for the connecting flight, we were disgorged 'Airside' to find our way to the appropriate gate. Midnight on Sunday local time and the airport was crowded! I stumbled across the Jet Airways business lounge and ducked inside. This was fairly busy too but I grabbed a 'Coke' and found a place to use my notebook computer to write a few words. The flight was soon called and I had only a short walk to Gate 13 for bus transfer to the waiting aircraft. The Mumbai - Bangkok flight was a 737-800. The Boeing 737 twin-engined aircraft has been a ubitquitous workhorse for years. The various later variants (like the -800) are a far cry from the early 737s I saw years ago. A meal was served shortly after take-off but then the cabin was put into 'dark mode' for sleeping for the rest of the four-hour flight. I slept fitfully but this leg rather dragged so I was pleased when we got to Bangkok.

Most of the airport workers at Bangkok were wearing masks against Swine Flu and incoming passengers were being screened by a thermal camera (to look for those with high temperatures). Immigration and baggage reclaim was painless and, once my hand baggage was X-rayed in Customs, I was into the arrivals hall. After a few minutes, I found my young lady guide, correctly guessing that the sign saying 'JANW FORD' meant me. We joined the car and driver and set off for the city. Around 7.00 a.m. on a Monday morning is not a good time to take the toll road into Bangkok and it was well over an hour before we arrived at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. I'd expected a Garden Wing room but was told that this had closed for refurbishment a couple of weeks ago so I was on the seventh floor of the River Wing with good views of the Chao Phraya River.

There was time for a quick shower and a change before meeting the guide again for a tour of Wat Pho (sometimes spelled 'Wat Po') and the Grand Palace. Although I've been to Thailand many times (initially, in connection with my work, then for pleasure) somehow I'd never been to either location. I won't bore you with details of my visit ('that makes a change' I hear you say) but I've put links to a couple of websites:

Wat Pho.
Grand Palace and other Thai Palaces.

My pictures of Bangkok (taken on various visits) are here.

My pictures of Wat Pho are here.

By this time, I was getting pretty tired but the guide still wanted to call at 'Gems Gallery' which bills itself as "The World's Biggest Jewelry Store" (sorry about the American spelling which is endemic in Thailand - thinking about it, more-or-less endemic everywhere). I realised I'd been before and it certainly is a very professional operation. Tourism might be down in Thailand, but this place was heaving with visitors.

By the time I was dropped off at the Oriental, I was pretty tired so I 'crashed out' on the bed for a couple of hours. I'd an invitation to a cocktail party in the Author's Wing where I met the general manager, had a couple of orange juice and then went for dinner outside on the terrace watching the river traffic. Regular readers will not be surprised to hear I had 'fish and chips'. Presentation was not quite what we're used to but the taste was excellent.

Part of the hotel is on the opposite bank of the river and two free hotel ferry boats ply between the two halves of the hotel and a couple of other locations on demand. I couldn't resist a trip to the other shore but after a short walk round the facilities (restaurant, spa, healthclub, cookery school and more) it was back to my room to finish this post.

My archive of pictures at the Oriental are here.

For more on the hotel try the Oriental Website.

Up, Up and Away

The Jet Airways Boeing 777-300ER at Heathrow, just prior to boarding

Once again, I'm off to the Far East. As I write, it's 08:15 on a Sunday morning and I'm in the American Airlines lounge at Heathrow, Terminal 3. I'm actually flying Jet Airways (an Indian airline) to Mumbai then, by a connecting flight, on to Bangkok. Because we 'lose time' flying east, it'll be Monday morning by the time I get to Bangkok.

I had an uneventful journey from home with Alan (that's the way I like it) and although Heathrow is busy, check in and security didn't take too long. Security is still thorough but, this morning at least, the staff are polite and I even got some smiles.

All-in-all, I'm quite relaxed and I'll keep you posted on my experiences as and when possible.

Transport Festival, August 2009

The Museum of Science and Industry in Manchester (MOSI) hosted a nine-day Transport Festival in August, 2009. As you can see from the rather curious advert above, the Festival intended to show how the "Northwest shaped the modern world". This initiative by Industrial Powerhouse is supported by the European Regional Development Fund which is "investing in englandsnorthwest" (perhaps I start to understand why many young people remain functionally illiterate).

The first seven days of the Festival were sub-titled "Roaring Road Rally" (accounting for some of the non-railway subjects in my pictures). This overlapped with a three day 'Great Garratt Gathering'.

The 'Garratt' types are perhaps the most famous of the locomotives built by Beyer Peacock in their works at Gorton, just a few miles from MOSI.

Garratts, both full-size and scale-models, came together at MOSI as part of the Transport Festival, to celebrate 100 years since this famous locomotive type was first produced at the Gorton Works. The first Garratt was the 'K1' for Tasmania. Repatriated and restored, this centenarian now works on the Welsh Highland Railway but was displayed (in light steam) on a low loader at MOSI, together with 'William Francis' and MOSI's 1930-built Beyer-Garratt, which ran on the South African Railways until 1972. Other visitors were the Gorton-built Lancashire and Yorkshire 'Ironclad' 0-6-0 (from K&WVR) and the former Beyer Peacock Works Shunter (from Foxfield). Both these locomotives were in steam and, in addition to giving passenger rides, operated a demonstration freight train. The visiting Beyer Peacock built 'Hymek' diesel remained static, but did occasionally run-up the engine.

On Thursday 13th August, I took pictures in the morning before taking over the 'Planet' replica on passenger rides in the afternoon.

On Saturday and Sunday 15, 16 Aug, bus trips were run from MOSI to see what remains of Beyer Peacock's Works. I joined a bus trip on Sunday for a walking tour of the former Boiler Shop, before returning to MOSI to drive the diminuitive Beyer Peacock works shunter which was built in 1879.

Originally, this works shunter was a crane engine but she was rebuilt as a conventional outside cylinder 0-4-0ST. During the afternoon, we 'banked' the demonstration freight hauled by the 'Ironclad', took part in a cavalcade of Beyer Peacock engines - Works Shunter, 'Ironclad' and (not in steam) Garratt 'William Francis' and finally rounded off the day 'piloting' the 'Ironclad' on a number of passenger trips.

On the 17th August, as a publicity event, the 'K1' was taken back to her birthplace at Gorton but I wasn't around for that.

My Transport Festival pictures.

My Gorton Works pictures.

My Works Shunter pictures.

My 'William Francis' pictures.

Coaling at Rowsley

In the past, locomotive coaling on Peak Rail has been carried out at the Darley Dale yard. For some years, an electric coal elevator was employed. This required the coal to be shovelled by hand from the coal pile to the hopper at the bottom of the conveyor. Even on a tank locomotive, this was a gruelling task at the end of a shift.

Latterly, matters have been much improved by the use of a bucket loading shovel which a number of locomotive crew are trained to use.

As part of the development of the new Rowsley Shed, smart coal stillages have been provided, shown in my picture below taken in December 2008.

In August 2009, the first consignment of coal was delivered to Rowsley. On the 9th August, I was the rostered driver when 'Royal Pioneer' was coaled for the first time at Rowsley by Rob using a 'JCB', as shown in the pictures below.

More pictures around Peak Rail.

Ty Gwyn

I've been involved in the management of a small commercial woodland in Wales for the last twenty years or so. Ty Gwyn is a 66-acre plantation not far from Corwen in North Wales. It's mainly Sitka spruce together with lodgepole pine, but broadleaves have been added in recent years with Oak, Ash and Rowan.

A small pool has been created, fed by perennial streams on the site. It serves as a memorial to my partner, Daemon, who died in 1999.

Pictures:

2003.
2006.
2008.
2009.
Harvesting (1).
Harvesting (2).
Replanting.

Brave New Railway (again)

Arriving at Wolverhampton to travel to London, the first service south was an Arriva Cross Country which I decided to board, intending to change at Birmingham to a Virgin Birmingham - Euston train. I was a bit surprised to find an HS125 working the Arriva train. The set had been quite nicely refurbished recently and the short journey to Birmingham reminded me how much better the elderley HS125 is from the customer's point of view compared with the modern 'Voyagers'. There's more space in the cabin, the sound insulation is better and I found the ride quality better. Back to the future?

I know that some Virgin services manage to run to time but I don't often manage to catch those particular trains. This trip was no exception. The Virgin train I hoped to catch was already in the platform at Birmingham - not the expected 'Pendolino' but the previous-generation push-pull arrangement with an electric locomotive on the back and Driving Van Trailer 82101 on the front.

Part of the train was in the old Virgin livery of red with black horizontal lines but a number of coaches were in the British Rail blue and grey livery which I've not seen for a long time. All the coaches were very run-down internally and I was reminded of the way British Rail used to use all sorts of nondescript stock on Football Specials, half expecting it to be vandalised.

Although there were a number of passengers already on board, quite a few were hanging around on the platform, suggesting some sort of problem. It transpired that there was a fault on the Central Door locking system. I'm not quite sure why such a fundamental flaw was not dealt with before passengers boarded. Needless to say, the Passenger Information Displays were confidently predicting an 'On Time' departure. Walking along the platform, I found a number of doors festooned with yellow tape and a few staff apparently investigating the problems. As departure time approached, I asked various platform staff whether the departure would be delayed but they all were equally unaware of what was likely to happen. Long after departure time, the displays insisted that the train was 'On Time'.

As usual, passengers were left to their own devices but increasing numbers concluded that the subsequent Wolverhampton - Euston Virgin service was a better bet. I think a 'live' public address announcement was made at one point, but I've no idea what was said because of the noise of a number of diesel trains in the vicinity. In general, the pre-recorded announcements at New Street are fairly audible but 'live' announcements seem much less satisfactory. It irks me that apologies for late running and cancellations (there's quite a lot of both) are given by a sincere-sounding pre-recorded message. It's difficult to take comfort from a pre-recorded message starting "I'm sorry..." when, having paid an eye-watering sum for the opportunity to travel, plans for the day are smashed by the casual incompetence of our transport system.

The picture below shows the London-bound 'Pendolino' which I eventually caught arriving at New Street. In the background, you can see the E.W.S. electric locomotive at the rear of the ill-starred push and pull I'd initially boarded. I've no idea what happened to the failed train - when I returned through New Street the same evening it had departed, perhaps to some convenient breaker's yard.

Excursions at Sedgeley Junction

Back in the '60s, when I worked signal boxes unofficially, I was used to seeing long-distance express trains on the Stour Valley line, but the South Stafford Line was the haunt of heavy freight and a fairly intensive service of local passenger trains.

Diesel Multiple Units (DMU) had taken over almost all the passenger workings, except for a steam-hauled service to Birmingham Snow Hill in the morning with a steam return working at tea-time. Eventually even that service was worked by a 'Swindon' Inter-City DMU. During the day, there was a Walsall-Dudley DMU each way every hour, a Birmingham Snow-Hill-Dudley each way every hour and the occasional trip between Dudley and Dudleyport by a single unit railcar.

But the Zoo at Dudley was still a popular destination for Day Excursions at Bank Holidays. With few freight trains running, paths could be found for a number of trains which converged on Dudley from a number of places, mainly in the East Midlands. Cars were far less common in the '50s and '60s and British Railways would speculatively advertise all sorts of rail excursions to the seaside or other destinations like Dudley which offered excellent value for money. On the lead-up to Bank Holidays, I would study the Special Traffic Notices to see what what had been laid on and, if the opportunity arose, I would visit Sedgeley Junction to work the box.

There could be up to six or seven 'Specials' all arriving at Dudley late morning and returning late afternoon. Most trains would be on the South Stafford Line but a few would arrive on the Dudleyport branch from the Stour Valley Line. I can't currently locate the detailed notes I made at the time (it was a long time ago) but one Easter Bank Holiday Monday I remember should give you the flavour.

The local passenger trains were signalled on the 'Block' as either '3 pause 1' (ordinary passenger train) or '1 pause 3' (branch passenger train) so there was a frisson of excitement when taking on the first 'four-beater' (express passenger train) from the Great Bridge direction. As far as I remember, trains loaded up to 9 or 10 bogies so the locomotive could be expected to be working hard coming up the bank to Dudley. We'd try to 'get the road' from Dudley East Box in good time to clear our Up Home and our Up Distant so as not to 'baulk' the approaching train.

The first train came by in fine style with a fairly grubby 'Black 5' on the front and a miscellaneous assortment of coaches. If originating stations were trying to run a number of 'Specials', they would often run out of coaches and all sorts of unlikely vehicles could appear. Since most of these trains were speculative, it might happen that an unexpected number of passengers would turn up for a particular train and the Station Master could be faced with the problem of 'strengthening' a train by adding whatever rolling stock he could find at the last minute.

Once the train had unloaded its passengers at Dudley, the staff there had the problem of stabling the coaches somewhere in the goods yard after which the incoming locomotive would wait for a 'path' to go to Bescot Motive Power Depot for servicing. A few hours later, the engine would return to Dudley, find its train, gather the by-now tired passengers and take them back home. Since a number of trains were sheduled to arrive over a period of less than an hour, some pretty smart working was needed at Dudley.

After the first train had passed clear of Sedgeley Junction, we could allow a following train to approach from Great Bridge direction. Once a second train was 'on the block', we would be anxiously waiting for Dudley East to 'knock out' (give 'train out of section') indicating that the first train was clear and that he could accept the second train from us, allowing us to clear our signals. I say 'anxiously waiting' because the approach to our Up Home signal was a particularly bad place to stop a train and drivers always seemed to feel a personal affront when stopped in a tricky location.

We'd been listening to the exhaust of the approaching second train for some time when we 'got him the road'. I'm not sure whether he saw our distant 'off' but he kept coming hard and, as the train appeared, we could see a 'Horwich Crab' 2-6-0 at the front. I think that was the only 'Crab' I saw at Sedgeley Junction. They were mainly used for freight but, with fairly large coupled wheels, they could run quite fast and were popular with some drivers for use on this sort of passenger excursion.

It was a few minutes before the next excursion was taken on and by the time we received 'section' (Train Entering Section) on the block bell, Dudley East had 'knocked out' for the second excursion so we could offer the approaching train on and clear our signals in good time. The locomotive exhaust was noticeably different because this train had a '5X' (Jubilee) on the front, the three cylinders giving six 'beats' to the revolution, compared with four for a 2-cylinder engine. I'm sorry, I can't remember the name but she looked quite handsome in lined green British Railways livery and the heavily-loaded train was soon disappearing up the gradient towards Dudley. I think that was the first time I'd seen a '5X' on the South Stafford line.

The next excursion was soon on the block and, with the Dudley East Block Indicator remaining at 'Train on Line', we were afraid we'd stop this train on the bank. Dudley station must have been getting a little crowded by now, having received three passenger trains in quick succession. However, we received 'Train Out of Section' in the nick of time and got 'Line Clear' for the next train. We may have slowed him, but he was going quite well by the time he passed the box. As the train approached, I at first thought it was hauled by another 'Black 5' but as it came nearer, I was startled to see an Eastern Region 'B1' 4-6-0. It was certainly the first time I'd seen one of those at Sedgeley Junction. It had no trouble keeping its train going well on the last mile of its journey to Dudley.

There was little time to think about the unusual motive power on the previous train because the last of the 'specials' was approaching. It was almost a relief to find a Stanier 'Class 5' in charge of the crowded train as he slogged up the gradient to Dudley. Only then did I realise that none of the engines off the earlier arrivals had yet come back light en route to Bescot M.P.D. We debated whether perhaps other arrangements were in use, but it seemed unlikely.

Eventually, Dudley East offered a '2-3' (Light Engine). Shortly afterwards, we received '2' (Train Entering Section). After I'd acknowledged and placed my Down Line Block Indicator at 'Train on Line', I received '2-2' (Engine Assisting). The 'two pause two' was commonplace on the Up Line where heavy freight trains required banking up to Dudley but in the down direction it meant that two light engines in steam had, for convenience, been coupled together. Having acknowledged the '2-2' for the second engine, I was startled to receive another '2-2'. I delightedly acknowledged this additional engine - it was the first time I'd handled three light engines coupled together. Then Dudley East sent '2-2' again. I hesitated for a moment before carefully acknowledging 'two pause two'. "Four light engines!" I cried unbelievingly to Tom, the rostered signalman, who was amused at my enthusiasm. Then Dudley East slowly sent '2-2' again. Suddenly, I wondered if it had all gone wrong. Had I misunderstood a 'Special Train Entering Section'? (I think 2-2-2 was authorised for certain trains). Was it not a succession of light engines but the repetition of a code I'd acknowledged incorrectly? "Was it another 2-2?" I asked Tom. He nodded "Take a 2-2" and I'll talk to him on the 'phone". So, with trembling fingers I acknowledged the fourth '2-2'. If correct, there were five light engines in steam coupled together approaching. Tom's 'phone call confirmed that they had, indeed, collected all the engines from the specials together and that we'd got five engines 'Rightaway Bescot'.

I 'got the road', pulled off and stood on the landing looking out for what was, for me, an unprecedented train. I could scarcely believe it as the five engines passed the box, all tender first, with the leading engine doing the work and the other four crews taking their ease. By this time, Tom had advised the box in advance what was going on by telephone so when I sent the '2-2' for each assisting engine, it was promptly acknowledged.

Tom was working 'early' shift (6.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m.) so shortly after the engines had gone, his relief arrived and I returned home. I didn't see the engines and crews return to Dudley, sort out the various rakes of coaches and take their passengers home around tea time. But I'll never forget the excitement of that day!

Earlier posts: 'Sedgeley Junction' and 'Sedgeley Junction Remembered'.

You can find all my posts describing Traffic Movements on the South Stafford Line and the Stour Valley Line in the steam era here.

There are quite a few posts describing signal boxes and railway signalling. You can find them all here. [Link to all 'Traffic Movements' and 'Railway Signalling' posts added 10-Nov-2015]

Peak Rail 1940s Weekend 2009

Robin models a 'tin hat' as a down train pauses at Darley Dale.

I was driver on Sunday 2nd August 2009 on the second day of the Peak Rail 1940s Weekend.

On Saturday, the weather had been foul but the people still came. On Sunday, the weather was good all day, encouraging an unprecedented number of visitors. The car park at Rowsley was quickly filled and both the access road and Harrison Way (leading to the A6) filled up with parked cars. Subsequent arrivals were recommended to go to Darley Dale, park in the D.F.S. Car Park and walk to Darley Dale station to catch the next train (there is a long-term agreement with D.F.S. for the use of their car park).

'Royal Pioneer' was the motive power, hauling a 7-coach train. Five round trips were made during the day and luncheon was served in the two 'Palatine' coaches. In the morning, Robin acted as fireman. He was relieved by Chris for the afternoon. Some of the departures were a few minutes late whilst passengers were boarding but we managed to prevent delays from escalating, mainly by smart working on the run-rounds at either end.

There was a large (and no doubt noisy) battle re-enactment just after 3 p.m. but the train was safely out of the way heading for Matlock before this started. On the way back, we would (if necessary) have been held at Darley Dale until the "All Clear" was received.

A Rolls Royce 'Meteor' engine was an unusual exhibit. Mounted on a trailer, this was periodically started and run for a few minutes. Apparently, this engine was derived from the iconic 'Merlin' aero engine - without superchargers it was used in battle tanks.

Of course, if you're on the footplate all day, you don't see much of the special activities, but I managed to snatch a few pictures.

There's an earlier post for the 2008 event here with links to earlier photographs taken at the 2007 and 2006 events.

Lionsmeet 2009 - York

'Lionsmeet' is a peripatetic event, moving from year-to-year between the tracks of different model engineering societies. To even up the travelling for our widely-spread membership, the event organiser, Alan Bibby, intentionally rotates the venues between north, south and midlands. This year, we were the guests of the York Model Engineering Society at their track at Dringhouses.

Over the years, we've had a pretty good record of picking days which enjoyed good weather but I'm afraid the first of August at York was pretty foul. Heavy rail eventually died out before the contest finished but it remained overcast and pretty cool. A number of our regular competitors were unable to attend this year but the enthusiasm of members who were able to share the day with our hosts at York was undimmed.

The track is situated in a partially wooded area next to the East Coast Main Line and we were treated to a procession of mainly electric trains all day. I'm afraid I find modern traction fairly boring and the only sight which I found mildly notable was three Class 66 coupled together hurrying south. 'Lionsmeet' was held on the multi-gauge elevated continuous track which I think is a little under 1200 feet in length. There are covered steaming bays with a traverser to access the continuous track. The layout is a 'squashed oval' with clockwise running and a system of 3-aspect colour light signals to allow multiple trains (although, for 'Lionsmeet', only one competitor at a time is on the track). Outside the elevated track, there's a dual gauge ground level track with signal box and pointwork leading to outside steaming bays and a traverser.

A diesel-outline loco with a Great Western 'Toad' brakevan performed on the ground level track for a while but most of the action was on the elevated track. The 'Lionsmeet' challenge is simply a contest to see which locomotive can produce the most work done in ten minutes. It's not an 'Efficiency' trial like the more elaborate IMLEC competition. The locomotive hauls a Dynamometer Car to measure distance and drawbar pull so that work done can be calculated.

This year, we had borrowed the Bristol M.E.S. Dynamometer Car. This is a bogie vehicle with a seat for the driver at the front, an impressive-looking control panel in the middle for the operator and a seat for the operator at the rear. For recent 'Lionsmeets', I've normally been the operator so Alan and I have coined the term 'dynamometrix' for this exalted (?) post.

A bogie passenger car formed the final vehicle in the consist, allowing the driver to choose the appropriate 'ballast' (passengers) for his run. This last vehicle fortunately had a handbrake at the front, allowing the dyamometrix to reach behind and apply some braking effort.

Bill Stubbs was the first in steam and he sportingly volunteered to compete first. By tradition, the previous year's winner goes first but Jon Swindlehurst was still readying his model. Unfortunately, Bill got the worst of the weather and probably the worst of the track conditions. One adverse incline on a curve under the trees proved troublesome to Bill but this spot gave all the competitors problems. Bill started his run with the dynamometrix and two passengers but 'dropped' one of the passengers to ascend the troublesome incline (the rules allow the load to be reduced but not increased during the timed run).

Jon Swindlehurst was the next competitor and with the dynamometrix and two passengers he completed a solid run, during which his mechanical lubricator failed. Unfortunately, the dynamometrix also broke off the hand brake handle so the passenger car had to be replaced by one with a serviceable brake.

David Wainwright was next to run. He started with the dynamometrix and two passengers but suffered badly on the incline in the wet conditions and 'dropped' two passengers.

Alan Bibby took the dynamometrix and two passengers and completed a solid run. Then, the problems started. The Dynamometer car showed a lower distance run than Jon (confirmed by observation) but a much higher Work Done. Unable to find a satisfactory explanation for this anomaly and with Jon unable to run again because of his lubricator failure, the Committee agreed that Alan should repeat his run. He made a good first circuit but, on the second circuit, the leading bogie of the passenger truck derailed. It was agreed that Alan should start again. This time, the passenger truck derailed as soon as the train passed the site of the first derailment. Members of the host club examined the permanent way and made some urgent repairs. Finally, Alan made a successful 10-minute run with credible figures recorded but they did not quite come up to Jon's achievement and so Jon took the winner's cup home again.

The performances are summarised below:-

Name	Distance	Work done	Position
Bill Stubbs	3470	12200	3
Jon Swindlehurst	6250	18400	1
David Wainwright	3540	11200	4
Alan Bibby	5710	14800	2

It was generally agreed that there should have been a special award to Alfred for attending in the atrocious conditions on his Vincent 'Black Shadow' motor cycle.

Pictures of the event

Liverpool

This panorama from the Liverpool Overhead Railway 'Map and Guide of the Railway and Docks' shows the extensive docks. Click on the image for a larger view.

Liverpool has always had a fascination for me for a host of reasons. I was quite young when my Father, Mother and I went to New Brighton for a holiday. We certainly went on the Mersey Ferry service to Liverpool and I think that was my first visit to the city.

After the death of my father, my mother took me back to Liverpool in the early 1950s and I was overwhelmed by the place. I was impressed by the municipal buildings, Lime Street Station, the tram system, the river and the docks. The Liverpool Overhead Railway was still running and I was staggered by the size of the docks and the ships which almost seemed to touch the overhead railway.

The area around Pierhead seemed very exciting. There was an Overhead Railway station there, in the shadow of the famous Liver Building. Four sets of stairs led down to ground level from the Overhead station. Directly beneath the Overhead ran two tracks used by Mersey Docks and Harbour Board to move freight around the docks. Six coupled saddle tanks fussed around in an area criss-crossed by tram tracks and roads. A few yards away was the Pierhead tram terminus which always bustled with passengers. At the river's edge lay the massive floating pontoon of the Pierhead Landing Stage with Mersey ferries coming and going to various destinations on the other side of the river. Morning and evening, the Landing Stage would be crammed with passengers, many with bicycles. When each ferry arrived, as soon as the gangway had been lowered, there would be a crush of people and bicycles disembarking and then the waiting passengers would refill the ferry. With a roar from the engines, the powerful ferry would head off into the murky waters of the Mersey and, at busy times, another ferry would immediately berth. I found it all a unique experience.

Pierhead is still worth a visit today but it all seems very quiet compared with how I remember the area from those early visits - the Mersey Ferries still operate but largely as a tourist attraction (so be prepared for the 1964 hit 'Ferry Cross the Mersey' on the public address).

The Liverpool Overhead Railway was the first overhead railway in the world to use electric traction and it operated from 1893 to 1956. See the Wikipedia Article.

Liverpool Museums are preparing the preserved Liverpool Overhead Railway Driving/Motor car for display in the new museum. My pictures of this car are here.

The picture above (from the 'Map and Guide') shows a Liverpool Overhead train entering Seaforth Sands station, with a host of dockside cranes and a warship on the right.

The preserved coach is now on public display in the Museum of Liverpool (see article on the Royal opening of the Museum).

There is a high-resolution copy of the 'Map & Guide'.

Amended January 2011
Museum of Liverpool reference added April 2012

Relief Work in Myanmar

On 2nd May 2008, Cyclone Nargis struck the delta region of Myanmar (formerly Burma) causing major flooding and terrible damage with winds peaking at about 135 miles per hour. The devastation was unimaginable and the world initially turned in sympathy to provide aid. But the problems of dealing with the Government in Myanmar and subsequent other natural disasters (like the earthquake in China) resulted in Cyclone Nargis being largely forgotten by the wider world. At the time of writing, it's over fourteen months since Cyclone Nargis struck but the need for relief is still pressing. The low-lying Delta area of Myanmar was worst affected, as it became inundated by the sea during the cyclone.

During my first trip to Myanmar, I had learned about the educational and medical charitable work sponsored by Orient Express staff on the ship 'Road to Mandalay' and supported by former passengers from a number of countries. Within days of the cyclone, Doctor Hla Tun from 'Road to Manadalay' travelled to the Delta to operate a mobile clinic in the more remote areas. Dr. Hla Tun has continued to make visits to the Delta and has provided the information below. For my earlier report on the cyclone and its aftermath go to Cyclone Nargis

(Photographs are by courtesy of the relief teams involved).

1st Trip

The first trip was from the 10th to the 16th May 2008. 599 patients were treated.

2nd Trip

The second trip was from the 29th May to the 1st June 2008. 491 patients were treated, bringing the total to 1,090.

3rd Trip

The third trip was from the 13th to the 20th June 2008. 868 patients were treated, bringing the total to 1,958.

4th Trip

The fourth trip was from the 16th to the 24th July 2008. After an early start, Doctor Hla Tun arrived in Bogalay Township in the Delta where he hired a boat to carry medicine and surgical materials to 8 different villages. One day was spent in each village and one day in Bogalay Township, treating around 100 patients each day. 951 patients were treated, bringing the total to 2,909.

In addition, medicine was donated to the Township Hospital where essential items were running short. Pressure on the Hospital was so great that some beds were shared by two patients. The relief team donated clothing to some patients and two ready-made noodle packs, provided by other donors, were distributed to all patients. Many people had lost loved ones, pets, houses and possessions and were struggling for food. In addition to the medical problems caused by poor nutrition, some suffered from post traumatic stress.

5th Trip

The fifth trip was from the 20th to the 28th August 2008. The mobile clinic operated in 9 different villages treating 909 patients, bringing the total to 3,818.

In addition, a total of 648 young people studying in temporary tents in various villages each received a pencil and notebook. Just over 100 U.S. Dollars made 648 young people very happy. Most of the population had been engaged in farming and since their fields were flooded with salty water and their cows and buffaloes died during the cyclone, they are currently dependent on outside help.

6th Trip

The sixth trip was from the 10th to the 16th September 2008. 666 patients were treated, bringing the total to 4,484.

On this trip, Doctor Hla Tun was accompanied by a former passenger on 'Road to Mandalay' and Associate Professor of Rheumatology Leila Magaro. The mobile clinic operated in four different villages within Bogalay Township, but patients from around 15 neighbouring villages attending the clinics. A further donation of medicines was made to Bogalay Township Hospital, at the request of Township Medical Officer. T-shirts, notebooks and pencils were distributed to over 300 students. 20 patients were referred to the Township and Division Hospital and a contribution was made towards transportation, investigation and treatment.

7th Trip

The seventh trip was from the 26th September to the 2nd October 2008. On this trip 307 patients were treated, bringing the total to 4,791.

8th Trip

The eighth trip was from the 10th to the 13th September 2008. 294 patients were treated. The total number of patients treated is 5,085.

9th Trip

The ninth trip was from the 26th September 2008. 288 patients were treated, bringing the total to 5,373.

10th Trip

The tenth trip was from the 21st to 26th November 2008. 507 patients were treated at two villages, bringing the total to 5,880.

In addition, pencils and notebooks were given to 285 students in two schools.

11th Trip

Doctor Hla Tun went to Pet Pyel Village in the Delta on 13th December 2008, returning on 17th December 2008. Pet Pyel village had a population of of 1,755 at the time of the visit but the clinic also dealt with patients from the nearby village of Toe Hla (population 377). It's believed that 350 people from these two villages lost their lives in the cyclone. These villages are remote, involving a two-and-a-half hour journey from Bogalay Township against the current of the river, using a small boat with a ten horse-power engine. There was no electricity in the villages, so the doctor had to use a small petrol generator donated by a Township Association and costing about 90 U.S. Dollars. On the first day, the clinic remained open until after midnight and on the second day, didn't finish until even later - 1.40 a.m.! Petrol for the generator is a significant overhead at around 3.50 U.S. Dollars per day.

The mobile clinic was open for three days, treating 71 patients on the first day, 131 on the second and 77 on the third. Number of patients treated over the three days was 279, bringing the overall total to 6,159.

In addition, a book and pencil were distributed to 418 students in the school there. There are 288 students in the Primary School (1st - 5th grade) and 130 students in the Middle School (6th - 9th grade).

Snacks, milk powder and clothing were also distributed to some poor patients. Food is also still being provided by the United Nations.

Doctors from the Health Ministry treat patients at large villages by using a ship but this cannot pass along the streams to the smaller villages.

Patients most commonly suffer from peptic ulcers, hypertension, chest infection and aching of the muscle and joints caused by hard, physical labour. Psychological trauma is common. Diarrhoea and dysentery has not been a problem at about 30 villages in Bogale Township because they collected clean water from rain during the rainy season. Although many reservoirs were inundated with salt water during the cyclone, some still provide reasonably clean water but the situation could deteriorate.

Most farmers have now harvested the rice crops in their paddy fields but yields vary from 30% to 80% of normal. Yield depends on the location, time of sowing, resistance of the seeds to the salt water which inundated the fields during the cyclone and availability of replacements for the buffaloes, sickles, spades and small plants from the nursery. Different planting methods have also been used when aid was received late from Government or NGOs. Instead of planting the small plants transferred from nursery to the paddy field, sometimes seeds have been sown directly. In places, shortage of buffaloes for ploughing has resulted in tractor ploughing being employed but this needs trained drivers and a supply of fuel. An attempt has been made to use buffaloes brought from Arakhine State in the South East of Myanmar, but problems have occurred due to the Myanmar Language having a different accent from that spoken by the Arakhine Tribe.

12th Trip

Doctor Hla Tun went to the Delta on 29th December 2008 for 3 days, opening a mobile clinic in 3 different places. 229 patients were treated, bringing the total to 6,388. On 31st December, the small boat used to access these remote villages grounded in the mud because of low water and it was necessary to wait four hours for sufficient water to proceed. During the enforced wait, 22 patients were treated in a temporary tent in a paddy field which has replaced a stronger one destroyed during the cyclone. The patients showed their gratitude by serving lunch to the relief team, after which the boat got under way to the village of Pet Pyel where a further 145 patients were treated.

Clothing and shoes were also donated to the patients.

13th Trip

Dr. Hla Tun travelled again to the Delta on 12-Jan-2009, returning 16-Jan-2009. This time, a boat with a 16 h.p. engine took two and half hours from the Bogalay Township with the boat of engine 16HP to reach the area of Ah Pyin Pa De Kone Village and Tha Maung Stream Village. On the first day 59 patients were treated, on the second 85 and on the last day 73, a total of 217 treatments, bringing the total to 6,605.

During the cyclone, over 2400 villagers perished in Ah Pyin Pa De Kone, leaving around 600 survivors. The number of dead is not accurately known because, on the day of the cyclone, there were two wedding ceremonies and many relatives and friends were visiting Ah Pyin Pa De Kone. The population has now swelled to around 1000 because of survivors migrating from smaller neighbouring villages.

The headmistress explained that about 65 students are expected to enrol this academic year compared with 215 students last year. Currently, there are 121 students in the primary school. Some are just starting school at age 5 and some are migrants from neighbouring small villages. Two teachers are taking all the classes this year. The headmistress estimated that more than 140 students died during the cyclone.

Of the 485 houses in Ah Pyin Pa De Kone, only 3 were left standing after the cyclone. There were 41 monks in the local monastery and all survived the cyclone, except for one who had gone to a relative's house in the village. The monastery itself was badly damaged but the monks ascribe their survival to the protection afforded by the trees which surrounded the monastery.

Treatments were also carried out at Tha Maung Stream Village which is a 45 minute drive from Ah Pyin Pa De Kone. Only one monastery here survived the cyclone. Because this visit was made during winter and the villages are near the sea, it was cold and windy.

14th Trip

Once again, Dr. Hla Tun went to the Delta for 4 days on 26th January 2009, reaching 2 villages which he'd not previously visited. A boat with a 16 h.p. engine took two hours and 40 minutes from the Bogalay Township to reach Pyin Boe Gyi. This village and A Se Gyi village are opposite Main Ma Hla Island.

The daily patient numbers were 43, 128, 70 and 83: a total of 324, bringing the total to 6,929.

Milk powder was distributed to some of the patients. In addition, 448 pencils and 348 books were distributed to 144 students in Pyin Boe Gyi Middle School and 371 students in A Se Gyi Monastic High school. The chief monk of A Se Gyi Village is a graduate who teaches 28 students in 10th and 11th grades at the High School. This is the only functioning High School education found during relief work in over 30 locations. In addition, there are 233 students in the primary school and 110 students in the middle school. There is a plan by a military attache from the Japanese Embassy to construct a new school in time for the next academic year.

The name Main Ma Hla Island means 'Beautiful Girl Island'. It's a free zone of 34779 acres, where there are crocodile breeding camps but all the crocodiles escaped during the cyclone.

During the cyclone, 374 villagers from Pyin Boe Gyi died out of a total population of 680. Due to migration, the present population is 804.

At A Se Gyi a levee reduced the force of the water during the cyclone. Over 50 villagers died out of a population of around 1300. Again, due to migration from outlying villages, the present population is has increased to 1564.

15th Trip

This was a 5-day trip to the Delta starting on 19th February 2009, operating at three villages, only one of which had been previously visited. The daily patient numbers were 57, 103, 126, 115 and 62: a total of 463. One of the villages is fairly close to the sea, taking a 10 h.p. boat about 20 minutes.

Dr. Hla Tun has treated 7,392 patients at this stage, with help from a local doctor on the first trip and the assistance of Dr. Leila Magaro on the 6th trip.

16th Trip

This visit to the Delta starting on 15th March 2009 and treated 282 patients in 2 different villages, the Robbers' Village and the Betel Nut Village. The Robbers' Village is very close to Thar Yay Kone village and the combined population is 1065. More than 100 villagers died during the cyclone. 147 patients were treated. There are 1350 villagers in the Betel Nut Village at the moment. Over 605 villagers died during the cyclone. A total of 7,674 patients have now been treated.

17th Trip

On 27th March 2009, Dr. Hla Tun undertook another trip to the Delta, treating 302 patients in 3 different villages (one village not previously visited). A total of 7,976 patients have now been treated.

18th Trip

This trip started on 20th April 2009, treating 230 patients over 3 days, bringing the total number of patients treated to 8,206.

Clean drinking water remains a problem in many of the affected communities. On this trip, Dr. Hla Tun organised a new Tube Well, 430 feet in depth for Lawine Island Village. He also organised the raising of the boundaries on the reservoir for Tha Maung Chaung Village. These boundaries are about 6 feet wide and 320 feet in length. The height is being raised around 3 feet at a cost of 650 U.S. Dollars. During summer, 35 villages rely upon this reservoir for drinking water.

19th Trip

This 3-day trip started on 8th May 2009 and treated 264 patients, bringing the total number of patients treated to 8,470.

20th Trip

256 patients were treated, bringing the total to 8,726.

21st Trip

Dr. Hla Tun went to the Delta on 17th June 2009, treating 272 patients in total during 3 days. The total number of patients treated is now 8,998 patients since Cyclone Nargis.

22nd Trip

This trip to the Delta started on 1st July 2009 and treated 274 patients in 3 different villages over a period of 3 days. This brings the total number of patients treated since the cyclone to 9,272.

On this trip, Dr. Hla Tun handed over medicines and his group of three assistants to a 74-year old native health assistant with a lot of experience. Dr. Hla Tun intends to follow up their activities on subsequent visits to the Delta so as to evaluate the cost and effectiveness of their activities. The health assistant had previously worked with Dr. Hla Tun on the first three visits to the Delta.

Details of later relief work can be found here.

[Statistics amended 15-May-2012].

Boulogne

My first trip abroad was a day trip by ferry to Boulogne with my mother when I was ten. The photograph above was taken by my mother from the ferry ('Maid of Orleans', I think) as it docked at Boulogne. The picture shows a diesel railcar waiting to speed passengers away. We stayed in Boulogne looking at the town and the docks. We had lunch at a small restaurant in the town, sitting at one of the outside tables - this idea of eating outside struck me as very continental.

Later, we returned to the docks for our return sailing where I watched the Paris express being marshalled by one of the exotic-looking '231' Nord Pacifics. I'm sure my mother took a photograph of the '231' but I'm afraid I've not been able to find it.

I spoke no French, but my interest in railways must have been apparent because at one point one of the shunters suddenly lifted me up into a baggage car where I sat on the floor as the train disappeared towards the station throat. My mother did not at first realise that this was only a shunting move and envisaged me ending up in Paris! She was relieved when the train stopped and reversed into an adjacent platform where we were reunited. That was my first trip on a French train. At the time, I found it perfectly natural to be suddenly given a short ride on a train in a foreign country - it's only looking back now that it seems remarkable.

New Platform at MOSI

Passengers boarding the first public train from the 2009 platform.

The Museum of Science and Industry in Manchester (which now likes to be known as 'MOSI') recently introduced a new platform for passengers boarding and alighting from the steam train which runs most weekends and some weekdays.

When I first became a member of the Friends organisation, back in 1988, the platform was near the main museum entrance, outside the Power Hall. A few years later, the running line was truncated and a new platform was constructed near the spiral stairs leading to the lower yard. We used this new platform until recently when another platform was completed. The latest platform is more or less in the position of the first platform (although it's now designed to serve the line nearest the Power Hall, rather than, as originally, the next road).

Looking towards Liverpool from the 2009 platform.

The line nearest the Power Hall has always had an inspection pit which has been refurbished. Since the pit is now on the running line, guard rails have been fitted. A small compressor house has been built just beyond the buffer stop and an air main feeds two charging points to allow the air receivers on 'Planet' to be recharged (the 'Planet' replica does not follow the prototype in having only a tender handbrake - the replica has a British Rail 2-pipe air brake system with 3 disc brakes on the engine and tender!). A modern ticket machine housed in a small wooden 'chalet' at the entrance to the platform allows passengers to purchase tickets for the ride before boarding the train.

On Saturday 27th June 2009, the new platform was brought into full service without ceremony and I was rostered as driver on that day, using the 'Planet' replica.

In August, the Museum is hosting a Transport Festival, starting on Saturday 8th August 2009. This festival concludes with the Great Garratt Gathering on 14-15-16th August. It's anticipated that the new passenger arrangements will be comprehensively tested during the Transport Festival.

Postscript: The Transport Festival is described here.

The Locksmith's House

Willenhall, in the West Midlands, was once the centre of the English lock-making industry which exported its products around the world. Although a small number of large companies eventually predominated, for many years small family businesses flourished. Richard Hodson and Son was typical of these businesses and, through good fortune, the family home and attached works became a lock museum, called The Locksmith's House.

In December 2008, regular public opening of the museum at The Locksmith's House in Willenhall ceased. Representations by various groups to the present owners, the Black Country Living Museum, have not succeeded in averting the closure. The museum claims that it will continue to open, as required, for party bookings. See the Official Website.

I visited the museum shortly before regular opening ceased to make an informal photographic record. It's a fascinating site, full of interest, conveying a real sense of the history of lockmaking in Willenhall and the lifestyle of the owners at the end of the Victorian era. It's sad that it can only be seen by pre-booked parties now.

My pictures of the Locksmith's House.

Flying

I've already described my first flight which gave me the taste for flying and since then I've flown in a variety of aircraft.

That first flight was a private charter by one of my customers and later I was able to charter an aircraft myself. This is how it came about...

Having set up as an electronics consultant, I was trying (with no great success) to establish the business. One day, I received a call from a senior electrical engineer at a large company involved in building new plant for British Steel (yes, in those far-off days, we had a British-owned steelmaking industry). I'd worked with him before and he thought I might be able to help with a problem. It seems that another company had designed special electronics for bulk materials handling equipment which was failing to give satisfaction on site. The client, British Steel, was not amused and was demanding urgent action. I was invited to go up to the site in the North East of England and see what could be done. At the time, I didn't relish trying to put someone else's mistakes right (it was tough enough trying to rectify my own mistakes) and I said that I was too busy to travel to the wilds of the North East. But the engineer persisted and I was amazed to find myself saying "Oh, alright, I'll go and have a look, but you'll have to charter a light aircraft to take me there and back". I imagined that would be the end of the matter but, instead, I was told, yes, they'd pay for the charter provided I arranged it, as they had no experience in chartering. It seemed the wrong moment to confess that I'd never chartered, either. I was more confident that I could arrange a charter than that I could fix the problem when I got there.

I arranged a twin-engined Piper 'Aztec' and pilot out of Birmingham to a small airport a taxi-ride away from the steelworks. In the meantime, we collected as much information as we could about the problems that were occurring and designed a small control module to replace the key element of the existing system. Although we had to make a number of assumptions in designing our control module, I hoped that our replacement would at least furnish an indication of the way to go.

I can remember very little of the flight, except waiting in the old, cramped terminal at Elmdon before departure, along with passengers for the various commercial departures (this was in the days before there was a separate 'General Aviation' terminal for private flights). The other passengers were scurrying hither and thither in reponse to inaudible public address annonuncements but when my pilot arrived, I was politely asked "Are you ready to leave?" and the two of us went out onto the apron and made our way to the waiting aircraft. I liked the idea of sitting 'up front' in the right hand seat and wearing headphones ('cans') both to facilitate conversation with the pilot and to follow the Air Traffic Procedures. Basically, I was hooked on aviation!

And what about when I arrived at the steelworks on that charter trip? I'm glad to report that our hastily-constructed control module performed better than I'd dared hope and we subsequently did quite a bit of work at various steelworks supplying materials handling equipment of our design. I managed to charter small aircraft a few more times as well but that's another story.

Tesla's Legacy

Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) is one of the biggest influences on technical development in the 20th century but he died in poverty and relative obscurity. He fully accorded with the image of the "mad scientist" and was a prolific inventor. He had a brilliant mind and progressively became more and more eccentric. Although he became obsessed with the transmission of power without wires, it was his earlier work on rejecting Direct Current electric systems in favour of Alternating Current Polyphase systems which transformed our world.

Nowadays, when the developed world is completely electrified, it's hard to think back to a time when electricity was a novelty (not quite so hard for me: in the 1950s I lived for a number of years in a house without electricity). Production and distribution systems for gas became widespread in urban areas during the 19th century but the generation and transmission of electricity was still in its infancy. Direct Current systems were universal, partly because an important use for electricity was to produce mechanical power using an electric motor. Electric motors of the time needed direct current to operate - the alternating current motor was invented by Tesla around 1883 and started to be introduced around 1888, together with his Alternating Current Polyphase transmission.

When I was young, some parts of the country still used direct current (d.c.) transmission. When it was necessary to change the voltage, a rotary converter was used where the supplied voltage would drive a d.c. motor coupled to a generator producing the required voltage. This was complex and introduced power losses. The brilliance of the alternating current (a.c.) system is that voltage can be readily changed using a transformer - a completely static device. Even a transformer will introduce some power loss as heat but this can be minimised by careful design and choice of materials. The lack of moving parts and relative simplicity makes a transformer very reliable.

Even today, high-power electricity generation relies on rotating machines. Alternators (a.c. generators)are generally spun by turbines powered by steam (obtained by burning fossil fuel or nuclear reaction) to achieve relatively high efficiencies. Alternately, gas-turbines can be used. In smaller generators, it's possible to use reciprocating engines to spin the electric generator. In hydro-electric plant, a water turbine is used to spin the generator. In the case of (highly over-sold) wind generators, a big fan spins the generator directly.

The power is moved from place to place over wires. Copper is an excellent material to use, as it has little resistance to the flow of electricity. The resistance produces heat so, to minimise power loss through heating, the wire must be as thick as possible. These days, aluminium is also used. Its performance is not as good as copper, but it's cheaper.

Here's the attraction of a.c. transmission. Heat losses due to wire resistance can be reduced by increasing the transmitted voltage. For a given power, increasing the voltage will reduce the current. Voltage can be changed quite easily, using a transformer, to a higher voltage for transmission then, using a second transformer, transformed back to a lower voltage near the point of use.

Multiple transmission lines in Germany

The developed world is now covered by a 'Grid' of transmission lines, often at high voltages of 132 thousand volts or, in the case of the 'Super Grid', 400 thousand volts. Whilst voltages up to a few thousand volts can be carried in multi-core cables where the individual conductors are insulated from one another by plastic materials, higher voltages are normally carried by bare conductors in air, since air is a pretty good insulator. The conductors are carried on pylons, suspended from ceramic or glass insulator strings.

Electricity pylon routes marching across the landscape may not be elegant but they have facilitated the high energy consumption lifestyle which many of us enjoy.

Tesla wrote a number of publications, some of which have been reprinted, such as 'Tesla's Experiments with Alternate Currents of High Potential and High Frequency'. This was originally published in 1904 by McGraw Publishing Co., New York and reprinted by Lindsay Publications in 1986 (ISBN 0-917914-39-2).

There's a small collection of pictures showing various transmission lines.