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My previous post here describes our journey across Azerbaijan, arriving in Baku station at 16:34. It was already becoming dusk and I was quite ready to retire to a hotel room but the organisers had decided that our walking tour of the Old City, which had been planned for that morning, would take place before we checked into our hotel.
A little background
The history of the area now forming Azerbaijan is very complex. There's a useful Wikipedia article here but I found a three-minute animation from 'Cartographious' here which shows the various changes informative. Use the 'Back Button' to return here. Imperial Russia, seeing the strategic importance of the area, pursued a series of wars against Persia and eventually managed to wrest control, as shown in another animation, this time from 'EmperorTigerstar', here. Use the 'Back Button' to return here.
The astonishing wealth-creation and growth of Baku in the 19th century resulted from the unique geology of the area. The world's first oil well was drilled at Bibiheybat, Baku in 1846 and the increasing demands for petroleum products both in the Russian Empire and in the West had attracted the attentions of the Nobel Brothers and Rothschilds by 1883.
Thursday 27th September 2018 (Evening)
The coaches drove us on busy streets from Baku railway station to a dropping-off point near the Old City. Although there were large, ambitious modern 'skyscrapers', the more conservative architecture lining the streets was similar to European and American cities developed in the 19th and early 20th centuries featuring Baroque, Gothic and Beaux-Arts styles, together with later Soviet styles. The picture below illustrates this architectural mix, with a medieval Persion palace (foreground), Soviet-style (rear left - although Baku TV Tower, started 1979, was not completed until 1996 after the collapse of the Soviet Union) and ultra-modern (rear right two of the three 'Flame Towers' described on Wikipedia here).
A mix of architectural styles in Baku, Azerbaijan: Persian, Soviet and ultra-modern.
The Baku Executive Authority Building, completed in 1904, was built as a Municipal Duma or town hall in the Baroque building style and now serves the Mayoralty of Baku. There's a Wikipedia article here.
Baku Executive Authority Building
We came across various oddities, like a strange larger than life size bust of the Baku poet Aliaga Vahid (1894-1965) and the Baku Museum of Miniature Books (see Wikipedia article here).
Baku Museum of Miniature Books, Baku, Azerbaijan
The Old City, Icherisheher, was built when Azerbaijan formed part of the Persian Empire, incorporating 12th century (or perhaps earlier) features and defensive walls, with later additions. There's a Wikipedia article here. Our walk took us past the surviving parts of the encircling Old City walls and the Maiden Tower. The Old City has been changed by modern reconstruction but a model on display in the Palace of the Shirvanshahs gave an impression of the 15th century city. The Old City, including the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, is now a World Heritage Site
Model of 15th century Baku, Azerbaijan
Walls of the Old City, Baku, Azerbaijan
Maiden Tower, Old City, Baku, Azerbaijan
The highlight of our walking tour, for me, was a visit to the 15th century Palace of the Shirvanshahs. Considerable reconstruction has been carried out and, although its detailed history is still a matter of some debate, I found it a fascinating and tranquil complex of elegant buildings.
Palace of the Shirvanshahs, Baku, Azerbaijan
Palace of the Shirvanshahs, Baku, Azerbaijan
Below I list Wikipedia and other articles which give more background on the Palace of the Shirvanshahs:-
Palace of the Shirvanshahs (Wikipedia)
PALACE OF THE SHIRVANSHAHS (Alluring World)
Shirvanshah Palace, Baku (Advantur)
Palace of the Shirvanshahs (Azerbaijan International)
We left the Palace and continued our walking tour, past preserved bathhouses and a medieval caravanserai but, by this time, my tiredness was overcoming my concentration and I felt quite relieved when I saw that we were finally headed towards the Four Seasons Hotel.
Preserved bathhouses in Baku, Azerbaijan
I was a little worried that, with a fair number of guests arriving simultaneously, check-in might take a while but, in fact, I was issued with a room key within a few minutes and gratefully headed for the lifts. My room was well-appointed and huge.
Four Seasons Hotel, Baku, Azerbaijan
Related posts on this website
This is one of a series of posts describing my 'Golden Eagle' Caspian Odyssey trip, starting with Travelling East.
Clicking on the 'Next report' link (where shown) displays the post describing the next events. In this way, you may read about the trip in sequence.
Next report.
Alternately, clicking on the 'All my Caspian Odyssey reports' link displays all the posts on this trip in reverse date-of-posting order.
All my Caspian Odyssey reports.
My pictures
These albums include more pictures of the events described above:-
Baku walking tour, Azerbaijan.
Four Seasons Hotel, Baku, Azerbaijan.
Around Baku, Azerbaijan.
All my pictures taken in Azerbaijan (except 'technical' railway pictures) are in the collection Azerbaijan.
With a reasonable weather forecast for Saturday, 17th November 2018, I decided to repeat the day trip to Liverpool which I occasionally make. Public transport in my area is now more restricted, so the possibility of bus to Penkridge to catch the train (as described in the post here) no longer exists. Instead, I presented myself at the bus stop for the first service to Wolverhampton, due at 08:35. I'd hoped that, if it ran to time, that might allow me to catch the 09:20 'London Northwestern Railway' service to Liverpool. When the bus arrived over ten minutes late, I resigned myself to a later departure from Wolverhampton but the bus made good time and, after getting off in Stafford Street a brisk walk to the station made me more optimistic about catching the 09:20.
Railway Drive has been blocked to vehicles for some time as the 'Midland Metro' at last constructs its extension from the present inconvenient St. George's terminus in Bilston Street to the railway station. A light rail system for the West Midlands was mooted in the 1960s but it was 1981 before serious studies were made and 1999 before trams on a single route from Wolverhampton to Birmingham Snow Hill started running. In my 2016 post Grand Central and Birmingham New Street Station I described progress on the extension at the Birmingham end to Birmingham New Street station and that is now in use. As I hustled to the station, I could see that track laying (using inset track) had started in Railway Drive - a mere 20 years after the opening of the light rail system.
Although the 09:20 was on time, I was able to catch it after all and I would have enjoyed the ride apart from a 'Hen Party' of a dozen ladies and one man who noisily crowded into my coach with their plastic wine glasses, a large bottle of prosecco and various mixers, celebrating a birthday (I couldn't determine whose) in a particularly noisy fashion which continued unabated until our arrival in Liverpool.
We stopped in platform 11 at Crewe, as usual, and I admired the polychrome brickwork I'd commented on in an earlier post here. There's a brief description of Crewe and the architecture of its station in the post Crewe Station.
Crewe Station 17-Nov-2018: A close-up of the polychrome brick supporting wall flanking platform 11 (apologies for the reflection of the carriage lighting).
As we continued to Liverpool, we passed considerable re-signalling work in progress. I couldn't determine the present extent but some new colour light signals were in use, with the control code 'WE' and 4-digit signal numbers so I concluded that at least part of the line has now transferred control to the Manchester Rail Operating Centre. I still have trouble grasping that we'll end up with just 14 such Operating Centres in the country (Derby, Gillingham, Cardiff, Saltley, Edinburgh, Ashford, Didcot, Glasgow, Three Bridges, Manchester, Romford, York, Basingstoke, Rugby). Halton Junction signal box seemed to have gone and the Air Raid Precautions signal box structure at Runcorn had the windows papered over so presumably is no longer operating. Ditton Junction, Speke Junction and Allerton Junction appeared to be still in use but no doubt their days are numbered. We swept past Edge Hill signal box and descended through Edge Hill Cutting where new signals were in evidence. Lime Street station re-opened in July 2018 following a period of complete closure allowing the modernisation work to be completed. There's more information about the work undertaken in a 2016 article from Rail Engineer here.
Liverpool Lime Street Station, 17-Nov-2018
I purchased a 'Saveaway' ticket allowing travel on buses, trains and ferries within Merseyside that day and descended by a series of escalators to the underground 'Mersdeyrail' platform at Lime Street Station. The first train took me two stations to James Street, where one of a series of lifts returned me to street level. It wasn't too warm but the sun was shining brightly so it was a pleasant walk to the Waterfront. I judged I'd not have time to catch the 11.00 a.m. Mersey Ferry, so I watched 'Royal Iris of the Mersey' slip way from Pierhead before entering the Museum of Liverpool where I checked that the star exhibit, the locomotive 'Lion', was still safe. I walked around the outside of the Museum to take a photograph of the Old Pilotage Building.
Liverpool, 17-Nov-2018: The Old Pilotage Building.
Next to the Old Pilotage, I found a massive display of 'Love Locks'. There's an article on this phenomenon here.
Liverpool, 17-Nov-2018: 'Love locks' overlooking the Mersey.
The clocks on the Liver Building were once again working and my picture shows the bright sun and blue sky on the day.
The 'Three Graces'.
It's become a tradition that I take the Mersey Ferry when in Liverpool, so I boarded the ferry which left at noon. Once we set off, the wind on the river was quite fierce, but with jacket zipped-up and gloves on, I was fine. The ferry first heads downstream on the Liverpool side whilst the pre-recorded commentary describes the north docks. We passed a number of small motor vessels moored with groups of men rod fishing. A large vessel was approaching us mid-stream and, as it came closer, I identified the passenger/car ferry 'Ben-My-Chree' returning from Douglas, Isle of Man. Once she'd passed us, our ferry turned to port to cross behind 'Ben-My-Chree' and head back upstream on the Birkenhead side. As we crossed through the wake of the larger ship, there was a fair amount of pitching. We berthed at Seacombe Landing stage with another vessel already moored.
Liverpool, 17-Nov-2018: View from Mersey Ferry 'Royal Iris of the Mersey' approaching Seacombe Landing Stage with catamaran Njord Magni already moored at the south end. In the background, 'Ben-My-Chree' is berthing at Twelve Quays.
After passengers had alighted and boarded at Seacombe, we set off upstream past the moored vessel - crew transfer vessel 'Njord Magni', one of the high-speed catamarans which services the various offshore windfarms established in the Irish Sea. We passed the northern berth at Twelve Quays whilst 'Ben-My-Chree' was still docking. The southern berth was occupied by 'Stena Forerunner', which I don't believe I've seen before, apparently currently operating the Belfast service.
Liverpool, 17-Nov-2018: Twelve Quays, with 'Stena Forerunner'.
We docked at Birkenhead Woodside Landing Stage, where I left the ferry before it completed its triangular cruise by sailing back to Pierhead, in time to form the next departure from Liverpool Waterfront at 1.00 p.m.
I made the usual walk to Hamilton Square Merseyrail station and descended to the underground concourse serving the three platforms using one of the series of electric lifts. After a few minutes wait, I boarded the next train to New Brighton. New Brighton's Victoria Road led me to the Old Town, where I purchased a fish cake and chips which I ate as I walked to the Marine Promenade. I sat in one of the delightful Victorian shelters to finish my meal. The bright sun had encouraged lots of people to 'take the air' and there was quite a holiday atmosphere. I decided to patronise the ice cream van selling soft ice creams before continuing west. I passed Fort Perch Rock but decided to defer my visit to the weekend museum based there. Their website is here. I continued past the Marine Lake, admiring the decommissioned New Brighton Lighthouse (a Grade II* listed building) and entered King's Parade, with its modern shopping centre on my right and New Brighton Lifeboat Station, where they operate a rigid inflatable inshore lifeboat (a 'B' class 'Atlantic'). Then I turned left into Atherton Street to return to the railway station, noting that the local signage seems to have adopted the dreadful modern importation 'Train Station'. A stiff climb took me back to the attractive, welcoming and warm Merseyrail station and, somewhat exhausted, I thankfully took my seat on the waiting 3-coach train.
This time, I stayed on the train all the way to Liverpool Lime Street, noting that the journey between Hamilton Square and James Street stations had taken just over five minutes - considerably quickly than my enjoyable surface journey in the opposite direction a few hours earlier! A Birmingham service was already in platform 7 and I was happy to take this train back to Wolverhampton after a pleasant, if short, trip to Merseyside.
Related posts on this website
To view all my posts on Merseyside, click here or, alternately, select label 'Merseyside'. Posts are displayed in reverse date-of-posting order.
My pictures
This album includes pictures taken during this trip:-
Liverpool.
Ty Gwyn is a small commercial woodland in north Wales extending to about 27 hectares (66 acres). In 2009-2010, around half of the plantation was harvested. This area was replanted with Sitka spruce and mixed broadleaves during 2010. In 2015, a further 10 hectares were felled and replanted, again with Sitka spruce and mixed broadleaves. The balance of the woodland has not been felled but has been left to continue growing.
I made an inspection visit to Ty Gwyn on 21st November 2018 with David Adam of Fountains Forestry who manage the site. In 2016, Fountains Forestry became part of F & W Forestry Services based in Georgia, USA. The weather was overcast and quite cold. Access is via a single gate and a system of internal forest roads gives access throughout the plantation for timber lorries and similar vehicles. The southern road leads on a heading somewhat south of westerly from the gate on the eastern boundary to just short of the western site boundary. A little over halfway along the southern road, a junction leads to a short link road connecting to the northern road which runs more-or-less parallel to the southern road from just short of the western site boundary to the Pool in the east.
Ty Gwyn 2018: View from northern road looking south, with 2015 planting in the foreground and the unfelled compartment in the background.
We conducted our inspection on foot, mainly using the forest roads. Shortly after we started, we experienced sleet which, fortunately, only lasted a few minutes. Later, the sun tried to break through but it remained a poor day for photography.
Ty Gwyn 2018: David Adam looking east on northern road.
The 2010 planting impressed me with its growth in eight years.
Ty Gwyn 2018: 8-year old growth near the northern boundary.
The appearance of the Pool was much improved following maintenance work.
Ty Gwyn 2018: The Pool, looking east.
David confirmed that the progress of the 2015 planting was perfectly satisfactory although some maintenance work would probably be needed in Spring 2019.
Ty Gwyn 2018: View from northern road looking south, with 2015 planting in the foreground and 2010 panting in the rear.
My posts about Ty Gwyn
You can find all my posts about Ty Gwyn here, with links to albums of pictures.
Pictures of Ty Gwyn
Ty Gwyn 2018.
You can find all my collections of pictures of Ty Gwyn here.
