Santa Specials, 2007

After Santa has left the station: A rainy evening before Christmas at Shackerstone, this year with illuminations.

I think all preserved railways have some form of 'Santa Special' service in December aimed at parents with children. It's satisfying to see packed trains and a delight to see the exitement and awe of the younger visitors. Each railway has developed its own distinctive approach but the event is usually a mixture of a train ride, a present from Santa and mince pies for the grown-ups. So popular has the idea of visiting Father Christmas combined with a train ride become that it's common for preserved railways to take up to one third of their annual turnover in this one month. Handling these passenger numbers with largely volunteer staff puts a tremendous strain on organisations but it's become a vital source of revenue.

For Christmas 2007 I was rostered to do one day on the footplate at the Battlefield Line and a couple of days driving at Peak Rail. At the Battlefield Line, I found that 'Sir Gomer' had been failed and the service train was being handled by visiting B1 'Mayflower' with its own crew so, instead, I spent a pleasant day pottering around the station on 'Linda'.

On normal service days at Peak Rail, 'Royal Pioneer' (Click for pictures) works the service unaided, running round at each end of the line. However, 'Santa Specials' are run 'top and tailed', with a locomotive on each end. This year, because of heavy demand, the load was seven coaches with 'Royal Pioneer' at the Matlock end and a diesel at the Rowsley end. The diesel alternated between the Class 44 'Peak' and a Class 31. There's no 'hooking on' and 'hooking off' during the day and the fireman only has to provide his driver with steam in the 'Up' direction. However, steam heating seven coaches means that the fireman must pay attention to the fire continuously. With 'Royal Pioneer' on the south end of the train, the normal water tank at Rowsley is unavailable, so another tank wagon was positioned on the loop at Rowsley with a portable pump and hose so that the steam locomotive's saddle tank could be replenished during the day.

The turn at Peak Rail on the 2nd December passed without incident, but on the 9th December we discovered that the rostered Class 31 had been failed and so the 'Peak' deputised. During the day, the Class 31 was repaired and it was decided to attach the Class 31 outside the 'Peak' for the last round trip of the day from Rowsley. This meant that, on the last southbound ('Up') service, 'Royal Pioneer' had a gross load over 500 tons. Of course, the 'Up' between Rowsley and Matlock is mainly a gentle descent, with various level and uphill sections, so it wasn't much of a challenge but still produced quite a satisfying 'bark' as the train was got under way. The customary setting of regulator in full first valve linked up a couple of notches on the reverser was sufficient to maintain the scheduled timing.

Dalek Warning

I wrote a few months ago about Dalek activities in Manchester (Click here for the original report). I observed that Daleks now appear to vary in size, colouration and even design. Was this, I wondered, the result of inter-breeding or merely the effect of off-shoring manufacture to the Far East? Later in the year, during a visit to Japan, I uncovered disconcerting evidence that Dalek plans may be more advanced than I suspected. In a dark corner of the Edo Tokyo Museum, I found what purported to be an early public telephone and kiosk. Certainly, as the photograph shows, there was some sort of equipment within the structure but do they really expect us to believe that it's a telephone?

Well, I put my concerns to the back of my mind but, the very next day, as I explored the Yamate district of Yokohama, I came upon incontrovertible evidence of what is happening in Japan. There, in plain view on the street, was another of these so-called public telephones. I accept that it does not quite have the classic lines of the original Daleks but I'm sure you will agree that the sense of menace is unmistakeable. Are we so easily fooled by labelling them (in English, mark you) 'TELEPHONE'?

Somewhat shaken, I continued my holiday, but I was confronted a few days later with further evidence of the spread of the mutant Daleks when I chanced upon another example in Meiji-Mura.

You have been warned! By the way, I'm not too sure about Japanese developments in Post Boxes, either. What do you think?

Review of the Year 2007

When I started to think back over the year, I was surprised at the variety of things I'd done. Alright, many people might not want to do these things but it works for me. As I've got older, I've become more aware of my own mortality (the various aches and pains provide a reminder) and there is, perhaps, an increasing desperation to cram in the experiences ("if not now, perhaps never"). If I had to pick one word to describe the most significant experience of the year, I think it would have to be 'Antarctica'. This was the highlight of my round-the-world holiday in February. I normally seek out warm places to escape to but, for various reasons, this trip included a very cold New York and a cruise to Antarctica. Manhattan viewed from the air

I started in New York and the cold there nearly finished me off. But there was so much to see I actually loved the place, criss-crossing the city on the Subway. Nonetheless, it was very pleasant to move on to Buenos Aires and be warm again. Despite my short stay, I did a lot of walking and tried out the 'Subte' (underground) and the commuter lines before flying down to Ushuaia, the port at the South end of Argentina. The town has a sort of 'Wild West' feel but I stopped at a splendid hotel a few miles out of town overlooking the Beagle Channel where I was very comfortable. After checking out the town and one of its Museums, I made contact with the tourist railway before joining the 'Antarctic Dream' for my trip to the Antarctic Peninsula.

'Antartic Dream' viewed from one of the 'Zodiac' inflatables

A rough crossing of the Drake Passage kept me bed-bound (along with the majority of the passengers) until we arrived in calmer waters but the experiences as we toured around the South Shetlands and the Antarctic Peninsula more than made up for it. We had many wonderful encounters with the wildlife but an afternoon whale-watching gave a positively spiritual experience as a couple of good-natured whales played a sort of 'tag' with our ship. Conditions in the Drake Passage were benign when we returned to Ushuaia and, following the last night aboard ship at the quayside, I went to the Ferro Carril Fin Del Mundo ('Railway at the end of the Earth') where I had a round trip on the footplate and made a number of new friends before flying North to Santiago.

I'd visited Chile once before so I took in some different sights before moving on again to Auckland. I explored by commuter rail, ferry and bus as well as visiting the National Museum before flying to Perth, Western Australa. Here, I spent time with my friend Keith who took me to various places of interest -Yarloop Industrial Museum, Hotham Valley Railway, Byford Nature Park, Whiteman Park, Bassendean Railway Museum and a barbeque hosted by the steam boat fraternity!

Jan imagines V1220 at Bassendean in steam.

Finally, I made my first visit to South Africa staying first in Johannesburg and then Capetown before returning home with an amazing collection of experiences.

Table Mountain, Cape Town from a helicopter

As usual, work took up a lot of my time but working from the Barn next to my home has made things much easier for me.

At the weekend, footplate work at Peak Rail, The Battlefield Line and The Museum of Science and Industry in Manchester kept me busy. In March, I was on hand when Peak Rail inaugurated two-train running. I was also involved in the 'Warring Forties' weekend later in the year. At the Battlefield Line, I had turns on Severn Valley's GWR saddletank 813, 'Gothenburg', 'Ivor' and (with mixed fortunes) the North British 'Thomas'. I also trained and passed-out on the Diesel Multiple Units. Now 'Lion' has returned to Liverpool, OLCO activities are restricted, but I was observer, once again, at 'Lionsmeet' which was held in July at Ashworth Park, Bristol.

813, 'Sir Gomer' and DMU at Shackerstone

In August, Keith Watson was in the U.K. and together we visited a number of locations, including Manchester's Museum of Science `and Industry, Shackerstone Family Festival, The Battlefield Line, Blists Hill Open Air Museum, Weston Park Railway and The Black Country Museum.

Keith Watson tries out the 'Planet' replica

In September, I made another trip, this time to Japan. I stayed in Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto and Miyajima returning with another wonderful collection of memories.

Zen Garden, Kyoto, Japan

This year has included some wonderful experiences. I'm very grateful for the opportunities I've been given and my reasonable health. I'm fortunate to have a wide circle of friends and, whilst I may not dilate at length in these posts on these friends, I appreciate their importance. Best wishes to you all for 2008.

Testing Class 395 Trainsets

Hitachi's Ashford Depot at night

At the end of 2007, I was involved in systems testing on the first Class 395 unit. Testing is based on the new Hitachi Railway Maintenance Depot at Ashford shown in the night photograph. The depot has five covered roads. Outside, dead-end siding 'WL' on the extreme right is presumably storage for the wheel lathe. The next dead-end siding 'TT' is the test track. This is provided with both d.c. third-rail and 25kV a.c. overhead catenary. However, the a.c. facility was not available so arrangements had been made to drag 'Unit 1' to Dollands Moor (the E.W.S. freight depot at the English end of the Channel Tunnel) where we could carry out 25kV a.c. static tests overnight. Initial test work was carried out inside the depot, powering-up the trainset from a 750 volt d.c. shore supply. The supply is fed to two busbars in the roof adjacent to the train. A moveable trolley in the roof taps power from the busbars and delivers it, via a pendant cable, to a connector on the train.

The Class 60 being coupled to the Class 395

Class 60052 arrived to hook onto the Class 395. The Class 60 has a standard drawhook with screw coupling and British Rail standard 2-pipe air brake, whereas the Class 395 has a Scharfenberg automatic coupler and non-standard air brake. The Class 395 had already been rigged with a 'Translator' which has two air brake hoses for connection to the assistant locomotive and converts the pressures so as to apply the brake of the Class 395 in an appropriate manner. A Scharfenberg coupler head had been rigged to a framework fitting over a standard drawhook and, once in place on the Class 60, it was secured by clamp screws. The first attempt at coupling failed but, second time, the Class 60 'captured' the Class 395. The brake hoses on the Class 60 were then coupled to the Class 395 and a couple of plastic cable ties ensured that the translator hoses were held well above the railhead.

The Class 60 slowly drew the Class 395 through the yard and into the headshunt, where we had to wait for an EMU to attach at the rear of the Class 395. This took a little while but, eventually, the EMU dragged the whole consist back through the yard and into platform 6 at Ashford International station. Here, there was a short delay whilst the EMU was uncoupled and then the Class 60 dragged 395 001 out onto the main line heading for Dollands Moor. Speed under these conditions is limited to 35 m.p.h. but before long we had slowed to diverge into Dollands Moor and came to a stand on one of the loops electrified at 25kV a.c. where we would spend the night carrying out static a.c. testing.

On completion of the testing, there was just time for a few hours sleep at a hotel in Ashford before returning to the Ashford Depot to carry out further investigations. 395 001 was still at Dollands Moor but 395 002 (which had been at Dollands Moor) had been dragged back to the Ashford Depot.

Jan in the cab of 395 002 inside the depot at Ashford

Although a second night's testing had been planned for Unit 1 at Dolland's Moor, because of other commitments I returned home after a thoroughly exhausting, but educational, couple of days.

Related posts on this website

Class 395 Trainsets.

My pictures

Class 395: Testing.

[Related post ref added:10-Sep-2016]

Class 395 Trainsets

The first Class 395, shown in Hitachi's Ashford maintenance depot, is currently involved in pilot trials.

Hitachi have a long history of supplying railway equipment in Japan. Before entering the U.K. market, they converted redundant British Rail 25kV EMU vehicles to prove the suitability of the Hitachi traction package on the so-called 'V-train' (V for Verification). They are now supplying Class 395 'Javelin' trains intended to provide a fast service to the 2012 Olympiad and improve commuting in parts of the South East.

Class 395 trainsets (‘units’) are a high-speed variant of the family of 'A Trains' built by Hitachi in Japan. They are 6-coach (‘car’) Electric Multiple Units (EMU) numbered from 395001, the first unit, upwards. Each vehicle is carried on two four-wheel bogies provided with air suspension. There are two types of vehicle – ‘DPT’ (Driving Pantograph Trailer) and ‘MS’ (Motor Standard Class). The vehicles are individually numbered – in the first unit the numbers are 39011 (DPT1), 39012 (MS1), 39013 (MS2), 39014 (MS3), 39015 (MS4) and 39016 (DPT2). The vehicles for the second unit (395002) number from 39021. Thus, the vehicle number identifies both the set and the position in the set. The trainsets are designed to be used on 750 volts d.c. and, in the future, 25kV a.c. on Network Rail infrastructure. The trainsets will also be used on CTRL infrastructure at 25kV a.c.

The two DPT end vehicles have driving cabs with a full control, monitoring and signalling installation (including TVM/KVB cab control and TPWS). There is a retractable nose fairing, revealing a Scharfenberg auto-coupler from Voith-Turbo in Germany. Each DPT also has a Faiveley pantograph, 25kV a.c. distribution and an underbody mounted main transformer. A high tension (25kV a.c.) bus is carried on the roof along the length of the train to interconnect the two DPT cars. This bus is a standard feature on Japanese 'Shinkansen' trains. The standard method of operation is for the rear pantograph to be raised and in use, thus the main transformer in the leading DPT is powered via the high tension bus. An emergency mode allows the leading pantograph to be raised. Associated with each pantograph is a roof-mounted Vacuum Circuit Breaker (VCB) and High Voltage Potential Transformer (HPT). The VCB is controlled from an equipment panel adjacent to the TPWS Control Unit. The a.c. return is taken via earthing devices fitted to each axle of the DPT, comprising carbon brushes contacting a collector plate fitted to the end of the axle.

Two secondary windings on the main transformer in DPT1 feed (via twisted-pair cables) solid-state Auxiliary Power Supply (APS) units underbody mounted, one on MS1, one on MS2. Four further secondary windings on the main transformer in DPT1 feed (via twisted-pair cables) solid-state underbody mounted traction converters, one on MS1, one on MS2. Similarly, the main transformer in DPT2 feeds the APS units and traction converters in MS3 and MS4.

The DPT vehicles are also provided with Brecknell & Willis 750 volt d.c. shoegear which may be raised and lowered as required. The shoegear feeds the DC bus which runs the length of the unit and feeds the traction converters on each of the motor cars (MS1-MS4). All cables are taken between cars via bolt connections and jumper cables. The four intermediate vehicles have 750 volt d.c. shoegear, switchgear and earthing contactors. There is a shore power connector (allowing the set to be powered from the trolley system in the depot where third rail is not provided). The d.c. return is taken via radial earthing devices fitted to each axle on motor cars, comprising carbon brushes contacting the axle in between the wheels. Each axle is driven, via a gearbox, from a three-phase motor mounted adjacent to the axle.

Related posts on this website

Testing Class 395 Trainsets.

[Related post ref added:10-Sep-2016]

The Etiquette Bell

I hope it won't be regarded as a breach of taste if I digress briefly on Public Conveniences. Washrooms, Restrooms - the euphemisms are many and often less felicitous than the couple I mention. Specifically, my topic is public conveniences in South Korea. Now, the South Koreans appear to be very proud of the standards of their public facilities and, based on limited experience at Incheon International Airport recently, their pride is well-justified. But a couple of aspects rather spooked me at the time and I'd like to share them with you.

Over the last few years, dispensers for disposable paper toilet seat covers have become fairly commonplace. But the South Koreans have gone beyond this technology. When I entered the cubicle, I found the seat covered with a slightly-wrinkled clear plastic, almost as if the builder had forgotten to remove the protective packaging. A brief examination suggested that the seat was intended to be used in this state, but I was quite unprepared for what happened after use. In addition to the normal flushing, with a swishing noise the plastic encapsulating the seat moved around the periphery of the seat. Some motorised mechanism behind the pedestal appeared to be supplying fresh plastic, whilst the used seat cover was consumed by another mechanism. When the seat had a completly pristine, but equally wrinkled cover, the mechanism stopped. Questions about the practical difficulties of creating such a machine filled my mind, but I was far too surprised to make a more detailed study.

On another occasion, I discovered the 'Etiquette Bell'. This time, the partition wall of the cubicle mounted what looked like an intercom system - a rectangular plastic box bearing a pushbutton, loudspeaker and the tantalising name 'Etiquette Bell'. Being bewildered as to the intended function, I refrained from pushing the button in case it triggered a response from some 'International Rescue' organisation. Afterwards, a little research revealed that the actual purpose was slightly more prosaic. In order to maintain suitable modesty in circumstances where there may be inadvertent noises from users of the facilities, it had become common practice to flush prematurely. This meant that the sound of running water from the flushing would mask any more personal sounds. But as awareness of the effects mankind is having on the ecology of the Earth grew, it became less acceptable to waste water simply in order to save embarrassment. Electronics came to the rescue - instead of actually flushing, depressing the button on the 'Etiquette Bell' plays a recording of the sound of flushing for a few seconds. If necessary, this recording can be triggered repeatedly, without the guilt associated with needlessly flushing actual water. Practical experiment showed that the sound recording is completely indistinguishable from genuine flushing, although the busier facilities can become rather deafening at times!

I must admit that, coming from our rather vulgarian society, I found the consideration for others which prompted the invention of the 'Etiquette Bell' rather charming.

All Change!

Quite by chance, I discovered that London Midland were taking over the former Silverlink and Central Trains franchises on the 12th of November, when I intended to travel locally by train to a business meeting. I managed to snatch a couple of shots of 'Desiro' 350 106 in full 'London Midland' livery leaving Stafford, one of which appears above. My own journey on a 'London Midland' service was made by 170 635 in a completely 'unbranded' green livery. I presume the 'Central' has been removed and the 'London Midland' computer-cut self-adhesive signage not yet applied.

Incidentally, whilst 'London Midland' appears as two words with initial capitals when used in text (as we grumpy old people would consider appropriate to proper names), the company logo is 'londonmidland'. The 'midland' is in robust characters but the 'london' is in very spindly and hard-to-read characters. The dot over the 'i' is green, as are the seven smaller dots (one above the other) which are placed on the right of the logo. One wonders how much the brand consultants charged to come up with that one. Railway photographs from 12th November.

Remembrance Day, 2007

Remembrance Day 2007 was particularly poignant. All over the globe, conflict, of one sort or another, is still flourishing. Hopes that the Cold War had ended were premature - it appears to be getting colder again. Servicemen and women serving in 'Hot Wars' in Iraq and Afghanistan are adding to the already appalling lists of injured and killed from earlier wars. This year, I visited Hiroshima. Despite the terrible evidence from Japan, the spectre of nuclear warfare remains omnipresent. It seems that Mankind is unable to learn from its errors.

On 11th November, with Ann and Dean, I visited the German Cemetery on Cannock Chase. Here, the deaths of 2,145 combatants from World War I and 2,786 combatants from World War II who died on British territory are commemorated. The details of the cemetery are a little different from the well-known pattern of war graves for British combatants but the effect is moving and deceptively peaceful.

The picture above shows the figure of a fallen soldier surrounded by the wreaths of former enemies placed that morning.

Additional pictures

Colours of Autumn

Autumn has been rather late this year. When I was in Japan in September, people were telling me how late the trees were changing colour and it's been the same in England. Beautiful as the Autumn colours are, I'm happy for Autumn to be late but, early November, it's definitely here now. The weather has remained reasonably mild but we may expect that to change.

The picture above (which you can click on to enlarge) was taken in the front garden at Brewood Hall. For more views of the garden through the seasons Click Here.

Railway operation in Japan

My recent visit to Japan gave me the opportunity to see how they run the railways in Japan. The answer appears to be 'very well', compared with the United Kingdom.

The English introduced railways to Japan, in the late 19th century. In view of the difficult terrain, a gauge of 3'6" (1067mm) was chosen, but with a generous loading gauge allowing quite large railway vehicles. At that time, speed was not seen as an issue and speeds did not exceed 100 k.p.h. A very extensive network of railways based on this formula still exists. All the major routes have been electrified at 1500 volts d.c. Japan Railways (JR) runs the majority of the routes, but there are also a number of private railways.

I was surprised to find that a lot of the infrastructure is fairly old, but it appears well-maintained and 'housekeeping' is excellent. In general, the private railways appear to have received more investment but all the trains I travelled on were punctual, clean and well-patronised.

Operational staff appear well-trained and diligent and I've commented elsewhere on the high standards of driving and the apparent discipline.

Signalling is mainly automatic block using a.c. track circuits and colour light signals. On normal routes, 3-aspect colour light signals are employed (GREEN - clear, YELLOW - caution, RED - stop). On high-density routes, 5-aspect signals are used (GREEN - clear, YELLOW OVER GREEN - reduced speed, YELLOW - caution, YELLOW OVER YELLOW - restricted speed, RED - stop). At junctions, route signalling is provided, usually with a separate signal head for each route.

Two bad accidents in the 1960s led to the installation of an Automatic Train Stop (ATS) system throughout Japan. There are various enhancements to the basic ATS system.

ATS-S uses a series of track inductors. An alarm sounds in the cab when approaching a red signal and failure to initiate braking within 5 seconds causes an automatic brake application. 'Absolute Stop' track inductors do not rely on driver acknowledgement and are used in stations and at starting signals.

ATS-P is a later system which does not rely on driver acknowledgement but which monitors train speed, based on a sequence of track inductors located 30m, 180m and 650m before the signal, all wired to a 'Code Processor' at the signal. Two passive track inductors are provided even further back from the signal. There is a 'continuous' version of ATS where information is fed along track circuits.

The Automatic Train Control System (ATC) also feeds information along track circuits. It was developed for use on the 'Shinkansen' lines and indicates maximum speed for each section.

Automatic Train Operation (ATO) is used on some subways to control departure, line speed and stopping point in stations.

More pictures of Japan's railways today.

Off the Road

'Thomas' during the re-railing process.

Nothing brings a chill to a railwayman like the phrase "They're off the road" when there's been a derailment. Whatever the nature of the incident, dislocation of services is the inevitable result.

Saturday, 6th October 2007 started well enough. 'Coventry No. 1', posing as 'Thomas', was lit-up, examined and oiled ready for service. The engine was moved down to the shed outlet signal to await the signalman. The signalman arrived and, shortly after, the signal dropped to proceed. The engine gave a short whistle, as an acknowledgement to the signalman and a warning to people in the vicinity of the impending movement. The brake was released and the regulator eased open until the locomotive just started to move. Almost at once, there was a shouted warning so the regulator was shut and full brake applied. The signal had been replaced to danger! Worse, the trap point beyond the signal had been moved to the throw-off position. This meant that the rails on which the locomotive was running were no longer parallel but intentionally divergent so as to derail runaway vehicles. In slow motion, the first wheelset 'fell in' as the gauge widened and the locomotive lurched sideways. This lifted the last wheelset just clear of the rails and, as the locomotive came to a stand, the gauge widening caused the middle wheelset to 'fall in', causing the locomotive to lurch in the opposite direction. The locomotive stopped with all wheels off, at an angle of about 15 degrees.

First considerations are always safety. Thankfully, nobody had been injured in this very low speed derailment and the public were not involved. Despite the 'cant' of the engine, there was no danger of the locomotive tipping over. Handbrake on and cylinder drain cocks open made the engine as secure as possible. Both gauge glasses confirmed that there was plenty of water in the boiler to cover the firebox crown, despite the locomotive not being level. Next, the locomotive was examined looking for any damage caused by the derailment, paying particular attention to the boiler. No damage was found. 'Throwing out the fire' was considered but, with only a moderate fire, full water tanks and injectors working, it was decided to just let the fire burn down, maintaining the boiler water level using the injectors.

With all wheels off, re-railing the locomotive was going to be quite a task. If some wheels remain on the rails, it may be possible to pull the locomotive back on with a minimum of packing. Sometimes, a locomotive can drag itself back on under its own power. This was not the case here.

Every available volunteer reported to assist in the re-railing but the key is to have somebody in charge who knows what he's doing. Fortunately, Roy was available and, under his direction, jacks, wooden packing, heavy steel plates and short lengths of rail were collected from around the site. It took some hours to get the locomotive into a position where it might be dragged back onto the rails. At that stage the 'Jocko', a class 08 diesel electric shunter, was summoned and connected to the steam locomotive by chain. The towing operation was carried out 'dead slow', a few inches at a time. The 350 h.p. shunters are ideal for this sort of job. Each time we stopped, the handbrake was applied on the steam locomotive, whilst the position of the wheels was assessed before the next 'pull'. The steam locomotive returned to the rails without further incident. The next morning, the locomotive had a further inspection. One copper oil line had pulled out of its gland and after rectification, the locomotive returned to traffic.

In the subsequent enquiry, the driver was completely exonerated, but it didn't make me feel any better. What did make me feel better was deputising at short notice for the booked driver on 'Thomas' on Sunday 13th October. We had what seemed like one of the busiest 'Thomas' days I can remember. In the afternoon, the train was re-inforced to 6 coaches. With 'six on' running into Platform 2, you can't get the locomotive adjacent to the water crane without setting the whole train back, so we used Platform 1 instead. The locomotive worked well and the success of the day partly made up for the disaster of the previous weekend.

Afterword

I've chosen the O-Torii Gate on Miyajima as a single symbol of a wonderful trip.

I've been back in England for a few days now, but my impressions of Japan are still vivid. Japan has a complex history and it would take a long time to unravel all the forces still at work in Japanese society.

Japan is made up of around 6,800 islands, although the vast majority of the 127 million population live on the largest island, Honshu, which I visited. Three quarters of the land mass is forested mountains so development is concentrated in the coastal plain. The Southern plain from Tokyo to Osaka is one of the most densely-populated areas in the world.

Until the Meiji Restoration in the 19th century, Japan was closed off from the rest of the world and it remains ethnically homogeneous with only small numbers of Korean, Chinese and Western immigrants.

After centuries of rule by the various Shogun, power was handed back to Emperor Meiji in 1868 and he embarked on a period of modernisation where Western ways were imported into Japan and a modern infrastructure was developed.

The rise of the military during the Meiji period led to Japan's involvement in a number of military actions, culminating in Japan entering World War II. Conventional bombing by America had resulted in terrible losses but the use of experimental atomic weapons on Hiroshima and Nagasaki produced an immediate capitulation.

Following the surrender, America was able to direct Japan's path for a number of years but, by the 1960s, a more confident Japan was emerging as an industrial giant. A period of great prosperity followed, allowing major infrastructure projects to be undertaken.

The booming 1980s saw Japan becoming more international in its outlook, making major overseas acquisitions and also becoming the world's second largest donor of aid. This period of affluence later became known as the 'Bubble Economy' and by 1998 Japan was officially in recession. Redundancies, previously unthinkable, undermined confidence and suicide rates soared. A somewhat-chastened Japan is now creating a new long-term role on the World's stage.

Religious belief remains strong, based on Shinto, allied with Bhuddism and a little Christianity. Shinto is a form of animism, where deities are seen in the natural world who should be thanked for good things and prayed to for assistance. It has ritual but no scripture, so other beliefs can be accommodated readily. I was intrigued that some Shinto shrines have a special place where new cars can be purified. This seemed to exemplify a pragmatism which appears to underlie much of Japan's success.

History and religion have moulded the sociology of Japan. In the West, we sometimes find the politeness, exaggerated respect and avoidance of personal conflict associated with the Japanese mildly amusing. I found it refreshing - the consideration which I experienced in Japan highlighted how bad things have become in my own country.

Since I travelled within Japan by train, railways (both modern and preserved) formed a thread running through the trip which I found absorbing.

Japan affected me more than I expected and I certainly want to go back to learn more. The contrasts were very stimulating - the vibrant, sprawling city of Tokyo, Yokohama with its maritime past, Senzu nestling in the hills. Then on to Nagoya with its towering buildings, the charm of Inuyama and its hilltop castle, the seaside feel of Nagoyaka. Kyoto retains echoes of its Imperial past and offers an amazing collection of shrines and temples whilst, not far away, Himeji has perhaps the ultimate example of castle building. Hiroshima is now a thriving provincial city again but, inevitably, visits to the 'A-bomb Dome' and the Peace Museum provide a harrowing reminder of recent history. Finally, the special island of Miyajima is an odd amalgam of the 'touristy' and the spiritual which I found charming.

All in all, a wonderful trip.

Postcard from Incheon

Well, not literally a postcard, but I'll try to add a picture when I'm home. In transit through the clean, quiet, efficient airport at Incheon, for Seoul. Just about to go to the gate for the last leg of the journey. When I get back and sort myself out, I'll add postscripts on the trip. Bye for now.

So, here's the 'postcard'. Aseana have a very nice business lounge at Incheon. The internet section of the lounge is in a glazed bridge over the main corridor giving views of 'the passing crowd'. So, what's that on screen? Uh, you might have guessed.

Leaving Tokyo

The Park Hyatt is a very swish, modern hotel, although I think it's been open about 13 years now. It occupies a number of floors starting at the 41st and going up in the futuristic-looking three linked tower complex which houses a lot of commercial tenants. This is similar to the hotel in Nagoya. The Park Hyatt seems odd, though. As a pedestrian you go in on the ground floor, walk up one flight to a mini-reception with road access and, if you pass muster, you get taken up to another reception area on the 41st. From there you get taken to your room. Mine was just one flight up on the 42nd with impressive views of Shinjuku. After a shower and a light meal I lacked the energy to go out again so I had a long bath, re-organised my luggage and slept soundly in the king size bed.

Up at 5.00am, shower, check out, down to the 2nd floor reception to await my 6.00am car pickup. Didn't happen (I don't yet know why) but there was a Limousine Coach leaving for Narita, so I thought I'd better be on it. It's raining, very overcast with low cloud. I think that's been forecast all week, but I've only seen a few spots. The Japanese seem to take umbrellas everywhere, if not to keep the rain off, then to keep the sun off. Tokyo really is huge - it impressed me on the way in by night but in the day it seems equally improbable. There's plenty of traffic on the freeway but it keeps moving and we make good time to Narita.

I manage to get off at the right terminal and quickly locate the check in. The airport seems very quiet and it's a matter of moments before I'm checked in. All the staff are helpful and friendly and speak either good or very good English. Security and Passport Control is equally prompt. I invest in a couple of books for the journey (plus I've a Herald Tribune the hotel gave me - the 'Trib' really is a good read) and make my way to the ANA Lounge which Aseana use here (I think the flight may be a 'code share' with ANA). Quite a few business travellers about but it's a spacious, well-laid out lounge so that's no problem. I have a bit of breakfast to keep me going and then come to their internet lounge to post this.

My impression of Narita is very favourable based on my experience. Anything more different from the hell-hole called Heathrow would be hard to imagine. As I've commented, I'm equally impressed with the railways, not just the Shinkansen but all the public transport. And the people - you would expect people in hotels to be polite but it applies to everyone I've come across. You only have to stop to read a sign and a complete stranger will offer assistance.

Once again, I'm forced to re-evaluate my prior perceptions. It's very refreshing to be in a place where respect and consideration for others is not completely lacking. But people I talk to think England is wonderful because so much of their development is tied up with English ideas. It's embarrassing to say, well, things may have changed a little. However, the flight awaits so we must postpone the philosophising until later. I'm on my way back!

Miyajima then back to Tokyo

So, what about Sunday? I rose at 6.00am had a little walk exploring the park before breakfast at 7.30. I'd booked an English breakfast and, on arrival at the dining room, was shown to a table with my name on it, and everything put ready except the fried eggs and tea which arrived moments later. An oddity was two pieces of white bread under cling film next to a toaster actually on my table. It made perfect toast and I enjoyed the meal.

The park leads into Mount Mizen, one of the three peaks on the island. There are paths up to the top but there's also a two-stage 'ropeway' (that's what the Japanese call suspended cable railways). I walked up to the cable station for the first service at 9.00 am but there was already a good-natured crowd of about 20 waiting. Within a few minutes, I was away on the first stage - a continuous affair with cabins holding up to 8 which disengage from the haulage rope at each end for loading and unloading. It was a pretty spectacular trip. At the halfway house, you transfer onto what they call a reversible - two bigger cars which go up and back, alternating with the other car. That delivered us a little below the summit so a short walk took us to the peak at 530m, I think, with a view of the Inland Sea, with dozens of islands looming out of the mist. Not so warm but still OK just in tee-shirt and slacks. Then I decided to explore some of the other tracks and find some of the many shrines on this holy mountain. A number of deer, even at this height, but I didn't see any of the monkeys you're warned about, but I think I heard some cries.

Then I met up with a charming Japanese lady called Yuishi also walking alone. Normally, her husband would have been with her, but he had had to work. We decided to explore together. Some of the lesser-used paths I found hard going, but satisfying. I'd intended originally to walk down, but the direct path had been closed for maintenance. Although the mountain is covered with primeval forest, quite a bit of maintenance is required and typhoons always cause damage. The alternative route appeared to be about three times as long so I chickened out and Yuishi and I descended using the ropeway. Then we visited the main shrine of Itsukushima-jinja together. It's built on stilts in a little bay so it's over water when the tide is in. All shrines normally have a main gate but here the O-Torii is built out in the bay so that it, too, is in the water for part of the day. I think all this symbolises the significance of land and sea and reminds people that Japan is an island relying on the produce of the sea. Then we went to look at the excellent local museum, Miyajima History and Folklore Museum. A large, historic private house has been restored and extended to display the importance of Miyajima historically and show the way of life of the people. By now, it was time for Yuishi to return home to Hiroshima, so we walked together to the JR Ferry Terminal and said goodbye.

Back to my cottage at the Iwaso and another Japanese meal served in my room. The O-Torii Gate seems to have a strange appeal to people and I think I was feeling it, too. I'd discovered that there's a boat trip after dark to show you the floodlit Gate, and I booked on it. The tide was high so, after cruising around it whilst people took photographs, we passed through the gate as people made the usual ritual bows and claps. Then we passed out through the gate and returned to the dock. The hotel courtesy bus whisked me back home - it seemed like home - and I had another good nights sleep.

Well, its almost over, I'm afraid. I rose at 6.00 am this morning and went for a walk around parts of the town I'd not previously covered and looked at more shrines. The tide was out so I took the opportunity of passing through the Gate again, this time walking. Another good breakfast and all the staff seemed particularly friendly. I had booked the courtesy bus to take me to the ferry but, being ready earlier than expected, I decided to walk. The ferry was quite crowded with passengers going back to the mainland and when we arrived, there were even more people waiting to go out. Miyajima is supposed to be one of the three most beautiful places in Japan and I'm sure they're right. A short walk took me to the station where I caught the local train back to Hiroshima in plenty of time to catch the Shinkansen to Shin Kobe. Here, I joined another train for the long journey through to Tokyo. After the tranquility of Miyajima, Tokyo came as a real shock to the system - so big, so many people - I think Tokyo was the inspiration for the futuristic city in Blade Runner. This time, I'm staying one night in a modern hotel, the Park Hyatt. I had to make my way across town on the JR Chuo Line to Shinjuku, leaving me with a 15 minute walk to the hotel. All is well and early tomorrow I go to Narita Airport to make my way home. It's all been a wonderful experience, but I think part of me is left behind on Miyajima.

Pictures of Miyajima

Pictures of Japan's modern railways

Hiroshima and Miyajima

I caught the Shinkansen West from Kyoto and changed at Shin Kobe. The line pops out of a tunnel halfway up a wooded mountain, there's the station, then the line disappears into another tunnel. I'd just time to walk out of the station. What I could see was very modern. Then another train to Hiroshima. Hiroshima's got plenty of skyscrapers but it seems more regional in its feel - the shops aren't quite as swish. And the tram system has quite an old-time appearance. Although there are some new trams, there's a number of second-hand German trams in use. Of course, I went to the Peace Park first, to look at the famous domed building which partly survived the atomic bomb. Then I visited the museum. Quite harrowing, but a necessary pilgrimage. I caught the wrong tram, got off and walked through a crowded shopping mall, then picked up the right tram back to the station.

Next, a local electric train on the Sanyo Line West to Miyajima Guchi. This is where the Japan Rail ferry to the Island of Miyajima starts from. I got on a ferry straight away for the short, 10 minute crossing. On arrival, I picked up a tourist map and decided to find my hotel, the Iwaso Ryokan, for myself.

I like small islands. This one had lots of tourists, and lots of tourist shops but a good atmosphere. I didn't appreciate how important the island is to the Japanese - it has always been a holy place, so lots of shrines were in evidence. There's wild deer everywhere, the size of a large dog. They're not shy about stealing food or even paper - I saw one tourist lose the snack he'd just bought - he only managed to save the wrapping!

I found the hotel but I'm staying in one of the adjacent cottages. These are totally traditional Japanese houses, sliding doors, tatami floors, the lot. After the brief check in, a housekeeper in a kimono showed me to the cottage. It may not be what I'm used to, but I fell in love with it. The main windows look across a creek with a running stream in Momijidani Park. Hidden by the trees, I could see the tourists in the park but it such a beautiful environment, nature enhanced by man, that I didn't begrudge them at all. Most of the tourists return to the mainland at tea time so, although there are various hotels on the island, there aren't many people around later.

Dinner was served in my room by the housekeeper. It was "a simple meal intended to be served before a ceremonial tea". Just as well it was simple. After the appetiser and hors d'oevre came the raw fish then a grilled course, boiled course, a sukiyaki of duck, a deep-fried course then fresh fruit and green tea. Quite an experience, and I was amazed how much I ate. The maids came in to set up the futon on the tatami and I took a turn around the town before turning in. The air reverberated to the sound of Japanese drums - the Itsukushima-jinja shrine was staging a professional concert with modern lighting, sound reinforcement and a bank of temporary seating for the audience.

Pictures of Hiroshima

Pictures of Miyajima

Leaving Kyoto

This is what the White Heron Castle in Himeji and a D51 look like.

Kyoto and Himeji

Kyoto Steam Locomotive Museum

My last day in Kyoto. Early breakfast, out at 7.50am, walk to nearest subway station and go downtown to Kyoto station. This time, I look at the modern atrium of the station building which caused quite a stir in this conservative city. First task was to make 'Shinkansen' reservations for a trip to Himeji today (Friday) and Hiroshima (Saturday).

Then I took myself off to the JR suburban platforms to find a train to nearby Tambaguchi. Smoking is now only allowed in 'designated' areas and it appears that the end of the suburban platform is one of them. So there's a crowd of people congregating on the platform until just before departure, when they all threw themselves on the train. It's only a few minutes to the first station and I start walking towards Umekoji Park where the Steam Locomotive Museum is located. To get there, I pass the Central Wholesale Market which is huge and very active. Lots of battery electric trucks are buzzing around - modern versions of the old Lister truck - together with gas-powered fork lifts.

I get to the museum just before opening time, so I'm one of the first to be admitted. The old roundhouse has been turned into a museum and they've quite an assortment of large locomotives on display. One end of the shed is roped off. I think that's where they're actually doing work on locomotives and it looks like the original 'factory' end where maintenance would be done. The rest of the 'stalls' you can walk round and there's examples of all the standard Japanese types, as far as I can see. Although this is my first trip to Japan, I've seen a number of the types before because most of Thailand's locomotives were supplied from Japan. Outside, there's a demonstration line about 500m long. There's already a D51 'Mikado' in steam and hooked up to a couple of Emmett-looking semi-open coaches although the first trip is advertised for 11.0am. I can also see a 4-coupled shunter 'brewing up' in the roundhouse. First, I dash round the exhibits making photographs for later study. Despite the 3 foot 6 inch gauge, some of these locomotives are big.

Although some of the earlier locomotives on show have got backhead injectors, later ones have water pumps. You'd think from looking that the injectors were British, but they bear an unfamiliar maker's mark. I imagine they date from the period when Japan was quite good at copying things but hadn't discovered it was good at designing as well. It was very hot today, so I can easily imagine that injectors, with their tendency to 'knock off' when warm, were a real pain.

I was surprised to find one 3-cylinder type, with two sets of outside motion and the inner valve worked by a conjugated motion. Now I wonder where they got that idea from?

There were some large parties of excitable primary school children on site so the train started running on the demonstration line early, presumably to accommodate them all. I took a ride on the 11.0am service. The engine was a bit overkill for the load of two coaches! A little later, they brought the little 0-4-0 onto the electric turntable, span it round about three times, presumably for effect, then it dashed about and parked next to the D51 on the demonstration train. I left the museum and walked a different way back to the station, through a different part of the market, which was noticeably quieter this time - wholesale markets tend to start early and finish early. I took a local back to Kyoto and wandered round the environs of the station before joining the 'Shinkansen' West to Himeji.

Himeji is a bustling, modern city (like most places in Japan) but it has a very famous Japanese-style castle. The castle is only about 1km from the station and once you're inside the castle grounds, the centuries seem to fall away and you could be living in the time of the Shogun. It's a spectacular place and I'm sorry my pictures don't do the place justice. I'm afraid there's a lot of climbing, so I was fairly done-in by the end, but it was well worthwhile. I walked back to the station and dozed on my way back to Kyoto. Subway and walk to get to the hotel, shower and then an evening meal.

Tomorrow, I move to Hiroshima area which is as far West as I go. I'm not sure whether I'll be able to get to the internet, so don't be surprised if I go quiet. On Monday I travel back to Tokyo, then I have to get up early Tuesday to fly home.

My pictures of Kyoto
Pictures of Japan's modern railways
Pictures of Kyoto Steam Locomotive Museum
Pictures of Himeji Castle

World Heritage Site, Kyoto

The Main Gate of a Shinto shrine in Kyoto

I started the day with a short walk in the Imperial Palace Gardens, quite close to the hotel. The palace compound itself is only open for visits by special application, and there's not time for that (this trip). I had a good look round a Shinto shrine within the gardens.

The short version is 'Today, Jan looked at a load of old temples'. Actually, if they're Shinto, they're called 'shrines'. Japan has its own 'religion', Shinto, related to animism, but various forms of Bhuddism co-exist with this. Some of the Shinto shrines I visited have a Buddhist temple on the site, whilst Buddhist temples may have a Shinto shrine incorporated. Most Japanese seem to have no problem following both practices. One explanation offered is "Shinto for happy events, like weddings, Buddhist for sad events, like funerals."

Today I had a driver/guide, Mr. Doi, with a very spacious and comfortable 6-seat people-mover. We started at a large shrine devoted to learning. This was absolutely heaving with secondary schoolchildren praying for good exam results. You start with a simple water purification ritual, then approach the shrine, make an offering, and undertake a series of claps and bows. To ensure your prayer is being listened to, the supplicant shakes a thick rope which sounds a bell fixed at the top.

All the shrines and temples are almost exclusively build of wood, so they're subject to rotting from the rain and termite attack, although they usually set on fire before they fall down. The floors are raised a few feet above ground so that air circulation can help to dry out the timber. The roofs have very wide eaves, many feet overhanging, so as to minimise the amount of rain which actually reaches the main walls. The weight of this overhang introduces design problems, so the rather ornate arrangement of rafters is not so much decorative as a means of managing the roof loading.

We moved on to the Ryoanji Temple, which features a world-famous Zen garden of gravel and 15 rocks. Some of the symbolism is quite appealing, but meditation was not assisted by the hordes of young people also making a visit. The scale of these places is impressive - the main hall is supported by various other surrounding buildings and there's a gatehouse, sometimes a very large gatehouse. There are usually gardens, carefully designed, sometimes centuries ago, to assist in meditation and understanding man's place in the world. The hills and trees outside the compound form an important part of the site ambience and it's impossible not to be moved by these places.

A short drive took us into the country where rice paddies fill the flatland, hemmed in by wooded hills. Most of the rice crop has been harvested and stubble-burning was going on. Many of the fields are provided with scarecrows. Outside one farmers house, there was a vending machine dispensing today's crop - bags of rice, and collections of vegetables. Vending machines selling drinks and cigarettes are everywhere in Japan. There are supposed to be 5.5 million machines and the range on offer is amazing.

We stopped a little way up a hill in a wooded clearing with a large, artificial pond with Koi carp in front of a fairly simple temple-like building which was the grave of one of the early Emperors. The Office of the Imperial Household is responsible for the upkeep of these sites, all over the country. Next, crossing to the East side of the city, we visited Ginkakuji temple, approached by a 50-yard path bordered by camelias trained into 20-feet tall hedges. The two-storey Kannonden is a building probably familiar to everyone. It is set in an idyllic location with trees and a lake, all designed to look natural but in fact artificial (just like Capability Brown).

Moving on again, the shrine at Nanzenji has a huge gatehouse ('Sanmon') you can climb for a fee (yes, I did) - one of the three biggest gatehouses in Japan. The 1.8km Philosopher's Walk is a path along a canalised river surrounded by cherry trees. This is something you should do at blossom time. I enjoyed it but, with all the retail outlets dotted along its length, it is now a bit of a tourist trap. Perhaps the best bit was the quiet shrine set at the end of the path.

And there were more 'best bits' - currently all jumbled in my mind, but leaving a great impression. I've always believed in 'The Spirit of the Place' and these shrines and temples exploit that idea to the full. There's one huge Shrine right in the city on the North side with very impressive gardens including three artificial lakes. Whilst the majority of these buildings are dark brown timbering and white walls, this is one that features the Chinese red-painted timber frame, although the Japanese use a very orange shade. You're sure to have seen pictures of this shrine because the bright colour scheme seems to appeal to art directors. What I didn't expect to find in the garden, protected by a bamboo 'shed' was a Kyoto electric tram! I've no idea what the intended symbolism is - perhaps there is none. We finished up in the area of Gion (where I had the conducted walk yesterday) looking at temples, a pagoda and the attractive traditional wooden houses. Again, it's rather a tourist area and at one point there was a rickshaw taxi stand, with the young men ready to take you on a trip. I didn't indulge.

Mr. Doi was a most congenial and knowledgable companion with excellent English, quite happy to discuss philosophy, religion and history. Altogether, a very illuminating day although I was quite tired on my return to the hotel.

My pictures of Kyoto

Arriving in Kyoto

Geishas in the Gion area of Kyoto

As I think we all imagined, the 'Shinkansen' left Nagoya on time and arrived in Kyoto on time, 40 minutes later. By comparison, our own railway system in England is so utterly third world, it might as well be steam-hauled. The trains here are spotlessly clean internally - I don't just mean the 'Shinkansen', the local trains are all the same. Only the Oigawa Steam Railway stock was scruffy. All the stations are clean, as well. The big stations are confusing to get around but at least there's usually some signage in English - larger stations have almost entirely bi-lingual signs. Today I'd got all my luggage with me so I used a taxi to get to my Kyoto Hotel. Driving through the city, Kyoto didn't look much like the cultural capital of Japan - it looked as nondescript as all large cities usually do. I'm at the Kyoto Brighton Hotel. I wonder if Brighton has a 'Kyoto Hotel'? It's a fairly large, modern hotel with all the rooms set off corridors overlooking a large atrium.

Another good thing, so far, is that each hotel has been expecting me and there's been a minimum of fuss in getting to my room. I started off by having a bath. The hotel-supplied bath salts turned the water a rather startling bright green but, after the initial surprise, that was fine. I'd been booked on a walking tour of the older parts of Kyoto, where you find the traditional, private tea-houses and Geishas practice their craft. So, I had to see about getting myself downtown again, since the 'Brighton' is a few miles North of the city centre, in a mainly residential area near to the former Imperial Palace. Kyoto has just two subway lines, one North-South, one East-West, with an interchange at the improbably-named Karasuma-Oike. I needed to walk about 10 minutes from the hotel to the subway, travel on both lines and then walk a few blocks to the meeting point for the walking tour (outside the Miamiza Kabuki theatre in the old district of Gion). All this passed off without incident and soon the pavement was littered with people obviously going on the walking tour - mainly young and American-sounding, but with a smattering of seniors. Shortly Peter, the guide, appeared and after waiting a few minutes for stragglers, we set off walking the narrow alleys of the district whilst Peter explained a little about the history of Geisha.

We had a fascinating ninety minutes and our 'bag' was two Geiko in traditional white make-up (the post-apprentice Geisha - during the lengthy training they're Maiko), one older Geisha not in white make-up and a couple of off-duty Geisha. Peter said that photos were OK from a distance. By the time we'd finished our walk, it was pitch black although only just after 6.00pm. I managed to re-trace my route back to the hotel and, feeling rather peckish, had a proper evening meal.

The good news is that the hotel's computer has given me back the apostrophe - the bad news is that it keeps jumping into Japanese when I mis-key and I struggle to get it back into at least partial English, plus I can't get the photo-upload to work at all. More when I'm able.

My pictures of Kyoto
Pictures of Japan's modern railways

Leaving Nagoya

Nagoya Castle viewed from my hotel

My last morning in Nagoya. I slept well, had a buffet breakfast at 7.00am and decided to try out the Subway. Nearly getting the hang of things now. Although it was early, I decided to go up to Nagoya Castle, expecting it to be closed (it was). I found the subway, ticketed, and made my way to the Sakura-dori line. The subway was very crowded, but the people from Nagoya seem rather more disciplined than the Tokyoites and everybody was formed up on the platform in diagonal queues two abreast within the painted lines indicating each door. Once the train arrived there was a certain amount of persistent pushing by some passengers to make sure they weren't the ones left behind! I even managed my usual spot at the front of the train. Three stops to Hisaya-odori and then change to the Meijo Line. This is a circle line and a had a bit of trouble finding the platform for the right direction but a local with reasonable English was at pains to assist. I've been impressed numerous times with the casual kindness of ordinary Japanese, even if they don't speak your language. Only one stop to Shiyakushyo and I come above ground with hundreds of girls making their way to the secondary school just next to the Castle. They're all dressed in the same design of white shirt with blue, wide, sailor collar, short pleated skirt and white short socks but, like children the world over, they all manage to be individuals. The massive moat and stone walls encloses not just the castle keep but the modern secondary school as well. I see the keep rising above the trees but cannot get closer until they open. Most of the castle is now a reinforced concrete reproduction because it was fairly comprehensively demolished in the second World War.

There are a number of Civic Buildings nearby so I quickly checked them out then returned below ground to make another subway trip, this time to Nagoya Port. That's Meijo Line anti-clockwise to Kanayama, change onto the Meiko Line, six stops to the terminus at Nagoyaka. It's a glorious day but Nagoyaka is, as yet, quite quiet. The area seems to be a sort of Coney Island. I'm intrigued by the Italian Village. This is a couple of blocks of Venice lookalike buildings with canals and gondolas! None of it open yet, but I see most of it by wandering around the outside which takes me right onto the quayside. They clearly entertain cruise ships here but the only thing moored at present is a large Japanese Coastguard vessel. I wander through the deserted Peoples Park, past the tall and, to my mind, ugly observatory building. There's a Maritime Museum and Aquarium too - closed but I didn't want to visit. More interesting is the Antarctic Exhibition. Parked on the grass is a Snowcat - the tracked vehicles they used for exploration - and moored adjacent is the former Japanese Antarctic survey vessel 'Fuji'.

Back to the subway and return to Kanayama. Here, I change to the Japan Rail tracks for an above-ground local trip on the Chua Line as far as Ozone - wonderful name. I toyed with the idea of going again to the Castle but then decided to get a Japan Rail local back to Nagoya and the hotel to get ready to leave. That's about it for Nagoya, because last night I made a reservation to travel on the 13.07 HIKARI 409 Shinkansen to Kyoto today.

On with the adventure!

Pictures of Japan's modern railways
Pictures of Nagoya and Inuyama

Around Nagoya

Nagoya is the fourth largest city in Japan, I think, but for some reason it is to the Japanese like Wolverhampton to the English - a laughing stock. Haven't seen much of the city because I determined to go to Meiji-Mura - a museum of reconstructed buildings from the Meiji period in the late 19th century when Japan encouraged ideas from the West.

After I'd had a buffet breakfast on the Concierge Floor 36, it didn't take long to get to the station, because the hotel is built above the station complex, but the service I wanted is run by a private company, Meitetsu, who operate from a nearby separate, underground station. I had the ticket machine cracked in seconds so, flushed with success, I was soon on board a semi-fast electric train to Inuyama. Once again, I was up the front checking the route and observing the driving practices. One of the interesting techniques is that the drivers are taught to make a big thing out of certain tasks, like observing signals. With their white-gloved hands they point to the signal with a very histrionic gesture and, as far as I know, say something like "The Signal Is Green". This reinforcement technique is intended to prevent driver errors where the driver responds automatically and doesn't consciously register the situation. From my vantage point, I could see that we were doing 100km/hour most of the time. Then I noticed that the destination displays in the coach occasionally displayed the speed next to an animated electric multiple unit!

Nagoya is built on a large plain and the line North to Inuyama goes through busy suburbs so every few hundred yards, we passed another automatic barrier level crossing. The barriers are invariably long poles which can droop alarmingly - there are no skirts as we have on busier barrier crossings in England. But their busier crossings do seem to have a network of sensors to detect obstructions in the crossing area. Within half an hour, we pulled into Inuyama. I found a tourist information office where they speak a little English - not much - and got a town map and directions to the bus.

The bus arrived fairly quickly but, of course, the buses work differently. A young girl prompted me, but I didn't work it all out until my return trip. You get on at the middle door and, as you enter, pick up a ticket from a dispenser with the stage number printed on it. When you get off, the ticket is placed in a machine after scrutiny by the driver and you pay him the correct fare. Theres a 1000 Yen note change machine which dispenses coins so that you can make the right fare. 1000 Yen is about five pounds. On the way back, I spotted a custom flat-screen display facing the driver and passengers. It displays a table of all the possible fare stages and the fare payable from each stage to the current location of the bus. I don't know how it gets updated but its a nifty bit of kit, once you know it's there.

The bus set off through the town, passing a number of rice fields. In the distance, I could see the huge netted pylons of what I presume is a golf driving range. It appears that no self-respecting Japanese town can be without one of these, although I always think they look like some sort of inter-stellar radio transmitter. We then turned up into the hills and made a steep, twisting ascent which was a bit hair-raising. Part of the route was marked with transverse rumble strips which threatened to shake the bus apart. I was beginning to think I was on the wrong bus, when we pulled into a bus lay-by next to a series of gates and low buildings - we were there!

I bought a ticket to the museum and wandered in. A bus - modern, but built to look old - was waiting. Eventually, I risked it. The driver took us slowly along twisting roads between the various buildings, pausing to explain - in Japanese - what they were. After about ten minutes, we disembarked at the Northern-most point on the bus route, next to the original Imperial Hotel Reception from Tokyo - very art deco, as I should have expected. But, somehow, my steps took me to the Northern railway station where I found a Baldwin six-coupled tank engine at the head of three four-wheeled coaches. The guard was a cheerful soul with a little English. The fireman had quite good English, with a good English railway technical vocabulary. Of course, I had a trip with them. The run is only a few hundred yards long but there's a turntable and run round loop each end so the guard and fireman (who do the hooking on and off, engine turning and point operation)are quite fit, particularly since they do everything at the trot. This business of running I noticed was practised in New Zealand, as well, but it's discouraged in England.

Then I had a few hours of tramping through the hot sun to check out the almost 70 reconstructed buildings. The museum in in a delightful, wooded, hilly area next to a lake, so it's rather like a cross between Blists Hill Open Air Museum and Portmerion. A thoroughly charming place.

I tried out the Kyoto tram, had another couple of trips with my new friends on the steam train and then caught the bus back to Inuyama.

I walked to the Castle, a National Treasure and nothing like English castles although serving the same purpose. Very interesting. I then walked to a different railway station and made my way back to Nagoya, thoroughly tired but very pleased. I'm staying in the hotel this evening, but I'll try to do a little more exploration in the morning, before moving on again to Kyoto.

Pictures of Japan's modern railways
Pictures of Nagoya and Inuyama
Pictures of Meiji-Mura Museum
Meiji-Mura Steam Railway