By Rail to Manchester

Sundry Notes and Musings, divided (approximately) into two periods

Pre-1980:

I don't believe I travelled to Manchester in the steam era, so I only know the line as it was around Manchester from photographs. Back then, the main services from my nearest station, Wolverhampton, were routed via Stafford, Crewe, Sandbach and Stockport.

Stafford

In the '50s and '60s I travelled as far as Stafford many times and was amazed by the Stanier 'Pacifics' rushing through the station with 'Named' expresses. The section 'Some Related Posts in this Blog' (below) has links to a couple of posts describing Stafford in that period.

Crewe

Less frequently, I travelled from Wolverhampton as far as Crewe - it was a 'Mecca' for me and I've written a number of posts featuring Crewe, listed in the section 'Some Related Posts in this Blog' (below).

Sandbach

In the 1960s, travelled as far as Sandbach on the Manchester line from Crewe. This was after the Euston to Manchester route had been chosen for the first major 25kV a.c. overhead electrification project. My trip to Sandbach was for an official visit to the new Power Signal Box (arranged by a kindly manager at Crewe). The power box was just north of the station on the Up side.

Sandbach Power Signal Box (now demolished)
after electrification of the line.
(Stephen Craven) / CC BY-SA 2.0

Westinghouse Brake and Signal installed a 'One Control Switch' ('OCS') panel at Sandbach. Track circuit and signal indications were on a vertical, geographical display. Controls were on an inclined, modular panel in front. Each signal had at least one thumbswitch (red for main signals, white for subsidiary) which was turned to clear the signal. Where there were additional routes beyond the signal, additional thumbswitches were provided, one for each route. The thumbswitches for each signal were stacked in a vertical column, where the top thumbswitch selected the 'leftmost' route. Any required point movements were automatically 'called' by turning the signal thumbswitch, although there were also 3-position individual point thumbswitches, black in colour (Normal, Automatic, Reverse).

An example of an 'OCS' panel on display at Crewe Heritage Centre.

Westinghouse installed similar new 'OCS'panels at Wilmslow (where the Styal Loop diverged from the main line through Stockport) and at Manchester Piccadilly (see below).'OCS' did not remain in favour much longer and 'Entrance-Exit' (enjoying the rather odd acronym 'NX') became the preferred approach for later power box schemes.

Stockport

Oddly, the Stockport area evaded signalling modernisation during electrification and the conventional signal boxes at Cheadle Hulme, Edgeley Junction No. 1, Edgeley Junction No. 2, Stockport No. 1, Stockport No. 2 and Heaton Norris remained for some time with mechanical operation of points although colour light signals replaced the earlier semaphore signals. They were all L.N.W.R. boxes (except Heaton Norris, which had been rebuilt with a B.R. Standard frame).

Manchester

In 1908/1909, the station (then called Manchester London Road) was re-signalled with the 'Crewe' All Electric system installed in three signal boxes. There's a brief description of the system here.


Manchester London Road No. 2 box in 1957. 

These three boxes survived until electrification of the line, when Westinghouse Brake and Signal installed a 'One Control Switch' ('OCS') panel, similar to Sandbach and Wilmslow, in a new building on the Down side.


The Manchester Piccadilly Signal Box housing
the 'OCS' panel (Photo: John Hillmer).

Post-1980:

It was the 1980s before I started to travel regularly to Manchester, initially for a series of business meetings and later to reach what was then called 'Manchester Museum of Science and Industry' (now MOSI and part of the Science Museum). I became involved as a 'Railway Volunteer' at the Museum and there are a number of posts in this blog about the museum to which there's a link in the section 'Some Related Posts in this Blog' (below).

As you'd expect, having electrified the route, traction in the 1980s was electric - either Mark I coaches locomotive hauled or the lively Electric Multiple Units. Over the years since then, both the pattern of services and the rolling stock has changed quite a bit. Now, addition to modern EMUs and Pendolinos, DMUs and Voyagers are common 'under the wires'.

The north end of Wolverhampton Station in 2007.

My journeys in the 1980s started from Wolverhampton which, by that time, had been provided with a Power Signal Box and an 'NX' signalling console by Westinghouse Brake and Signal during electrification of the area.

This 2008 view Wolverhampton Power Box shows that it is little altered externally and (unlike some similar Power Boxes like Trent, Saltley and Derby) retains its flat roof. Larger overhanging fascias have been fitted since its initial construction, presumably because of difficulties viewing the signalling console in strong sunlight

Signal boxes between Wolverhampton and Stafford had been abolished by Wolverhampton Power Box although Littleton Colliery box survived as a Shunting Frame until the pit was closed in 1993. Stafford had been reduced to two boxes - Number 4 at the south end of the station on the Up side and Stafford Number 5 at the north end on the Down side.

Stafford No. 4 in 2008.

View of Stafford No. 5 signal box snatched from a 'Voyager'.

There was then a fairly small power box with an 'NX' panel at Norton Bridge then (although the ground floor relay room remains, the operating floor has now gone). At Norton Bridge there were two possibilities - continue on the former L.N.W.R. main line to Crewe then turn right for Manchester or turn right at Norton Bridge and follow the North Staffordshire Railway route, joining the line from Colwich at Stone and continuing through Stoke-on-Trent to Cheadle Hulme where the L.N.W.R. route from Crewe was rejoined for the remaining journey through Stockport to Manchester.

Approaching Stockport from the south, the Buxton line converges from the right at Edgeley Junction No. 1.

Edgeley Junction No. 1, Stockport.

After a few hundred yards, the line from Chester converges from the left at Edgeley Junction No. 2.

Edgeley Junction No. 2.

The line continues through a cutting to Stockport Station. This was originally a tunnel but was opened-out during electrification to improve clearances for the overhead catenary. A further two highly-modified LNWR signal boxes look after Stockport Station itself - Stockport No. 1 at the south end and Stockport No.2 at the north end.

Stockport Number 2 in 2008.

The terminus in Manchester was called 'Manchester London Road' until 1960 when, in a fit of modernisation, British Railways changed the name to 'Manchester Piccadilly'. British Railways had a lot of bright ideas like this. In 1965 British Railways finally lost their 'way' (geddit?) and became modern, thrusting 'British Rail'. The signal box with the 'OCS' panel has now been replaced by Manchester Piccadilly Signalling Control Centre. A visit I made to the new signalling centre in 2013 is described here.

The Trainshed at Manchester Piccadilly showing a London-bound 'Pendolino'.

Photographs

West Midland Railways.
Stafford Area.
Manchester Area.

Some Related Posts in this Blog

Stafford Station in the 'Fifties.
A Sunday Stroll to Stafford.
Railways at Crewe in the '50s.
Crewe North Junction (1940) Signal Box.
Crewe North Junction History.
Crewe Station Signal Boxes.
Crewe Station.
Museum of Science and Industry, Manchester.
Manchester Piccadilly Station - Behind the Scenes

Some Related Wikipedia articles

Stockport railway station.
Manchester Piccadilly station.
Privatisation of British Rail.
British Rail.

'Blazing Saddles'

'Blazing Saddles'? No, not the 1974 Mel Brooks film but the name given to the March 2013 Gala at Peak Rail.


John Alvin's poster for the politically
incorrect movie (Wikipedia).

It's 70 years since Hunslet's 18-inch shunter design was adapted for a wartime order of 'Austerity' six-coupled locomotives and Peak Rail's 'Blazing Saddles' event on Saturday 9th March 2013 and Sunday 10th March 2013 was intended as a tribute to the success and endurance of this class. Peak Rail had no less than five examples of the class in steam, plus a sixth on static display on the Rowsley turntable. The timetable featured two-passenger train working, with the two 4-coach trains passing at Darley Dale.

Residents 'Royal Pioneer' and 'Lord Phil' were joined by 'Sapper', 'Mech. Navvies' and 'Wilbert'. These five locomotives operated a variety of trains during the day whilst 'Swiftsure' (awaiting repairs) posed on the turntable.

On Saturday, I was driver on Dean Forest's 'Wilbert'. I'd not seen 'Wilbert' before but preparation and handling is generally similar to that for other 'Austerity' tanks. The locomotive was facing south and required to haul the 4-coach 'B Set' to Matlock Town, top-and-tailed with 'Lord Phil' facing north and hauling the train back to Rowsley.

'Wilbert' on arrival at Matlock Town, showing a tail lamp ready for the return journey.

On Sunday, I was driver on 'Sapper' which is one of the 'Austerities' (along with 'Lord Phil') modified by Hunslet after the war to incorporate the ideas of the Argentinian locomotive engineer L. D. Porta. (described here). Although much of the modification has been removed, the locomotive retains part of the improved draughting. First task was Preparation, which I've described for 'Sapper' in an earlier post.

To 'ring the changes', the locomotive was turned to face north and during the day we hauled the 4-coach 'A Set' to Rowsley. We were top-and-tailed with 'Lord Phil' facing south and hauling the train to Matlock Town.

'Sapper' (photographed on the Saturday, when facing south).

On both days, the final round trip from Rowsley to Matlock Town and back was an 8-coach train hauled by all five locomotives in steam (four on one end, one on the other).

Motive power for the last departure from Rowsley on Saturday. Left to right: 'Wilbert', 'Royal Pioneer', 'Mech. Navvies' and 'Sapper' plus 'Lord Phil' on the rear. (Click on picture above for the full view).

My Pictures

'Blazing Saddles' 9-March-2013.
'Blazing Saddles' 10-March-2013.
'Sapper' Austerity Tank Locomotive.

All my Peak Rail pictures form a Collection here.

References

The 18 in. Hunslets (Industrial Railway Society).
Hunslet Austerity 0-6-0ST (Wikipedia).
Austerity 0-6-0st as modified (Martyn Banes).

Mandalay Area Railways

Introduction

Mandalay Central Station (shown as a black square on the map below) is an important rail hub. It forms the northern end of the mainly double-track trunk railway line from Yangon. A single-line extends further north to Madaya. Like Yangon, there is a 'Circle Line' around the city but I believe this only has one train a day. Just south of the city, the station at Myo Haung is the junction for the single line heading east to Maymyo and then Lashio. From Myo Haung, there is a single line which crosses the Ayerwaddy to Ywa Taung serving the north of Myanmar as far as Myitkyina and branches including the line through Mon Ywa.


Route Map of Mandalay Division from Myanmar Railways
(Click on map for larger version)

Some stations in the Mandalay area

Going south on the trunk line:-
Shanzu
Myo Haung (Junction for Lashio line)
Ta Gun Daing
Myitnge
Paleik (Junction for Myingyan)

Myo Haung to Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo):-
Thoe Gyan
Tonbo
Sedaw
Sa Tu Ta Lun Hto (Zig-zag)
Zi Pin Gyi
Thondaung
Anisakan
Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo)

Going across the river to Ywa Taung:-
Shanzu
Myo Haung
Amarapura
Ya Ta Na Gu
Shwe Kyet Yet
Ywa Taung

Going north to Madaya:-
Oh Bo (Junction for Circle Line)

Myo Haung station

I visited Myo Haung by road on the afternoon of Sunday, 17th February 2013. Photographs are here.

Owe Boe station

I visited Owe Boe by road on the afternoon of Sunday, 17th February 2013. Photographs are here.

By Train to Maymyo

On Tuesday, 19th February 2013 I travelled on the morning train from Mandalay to Maymyo. Photographs are here.

My Related Blog Posts

Railway Signalling in Burma - Part 2: Colour Light Signals & Motor Points.
Yangon Area Railways.

Wikipedia Links

List of railway stations in Myanmar

My Photographs

Burma: Colour Light Signals & Motor Points.
Railways in Myanmar.
More Railways in Burma.
Myo Haung Station.
Owe Boe Station, Mandalay.
By Train to Maymyo.

Sunday Diesel

Events of Sunday, 3rd March 2013

The Battlefield Line had planned to operate a steam-hauled service on the 2nd and 3rd of March. However, bad weather had delayed the completion of essential track repairs between Market Bosworth and Shenton. The railway substituted a diesel railcar service operating between Shackerstone and Market Bosworth only and I was the driver on the Sunday.

I arrived early and the P.Way gang were assembling the Works Train which would continue the track repairs that day. Diesel electric shunter 08 825 was the Works Train motive power. This locomotive is functional but in need of cosmetic restoration.


Works train locomotive 08 825.

'ED' locomotive 73 114 was also used during the shunt but, on completion, this was stabled on platform 2 along with the coaches forming the normal service train. When the works train departed towards Shention, it comprised a 20-ton brake van, well wagons and a tool van, propelled by 08 825, under the authority of an Engineering Possession for the complete line. Once the Works Train had passed Market Bosworth station, a 'STOP' board and red flag were set to protect the train and the Engineering Possession between Shackerstone and Market Bosworth station was withdrawn by telephone and recorded in the Train Register book at Shackerstone signal box. In the meantime, I'd prepared the single coach 'Bubble Car' 55005 for the passenger service.


'Bubble Car' 55005.

Once the signalman 'cleared' the 'dummy' (ground disk signal - also called 'dolly'), I moved the unit down to platform 1. The sun was starting to peek through but it was still cold, so I started both hot air heater units to warm the coach.

One of the two underframe-mounted heater units.

Passengers on the first service to Market Bosworth.

An 'Emergency' timetable was in use, with departures from Shackerstone at 11:15, 12:30, 13:45 and 15:00. We were 'booked' to stand at Market Bosworth around 15 minutes before returning to Shackerstone. The timetable was carried out without incident. The relative comfort of driving a railcar (rather than steam) makes a nice change occasionally.


The neat arrangement of driving controls in the cab of 55005.

I first became a member at Shackerstone when I was an instructor/driver at Tyseley Railway Museum on their driving experience courses. Tyseley had agreed to run additional courses at Shackerstone using 'Kolhapur' and 'Taw Valley'. Shackerstone's resident engine at the time was 'Lamport No. 3' - a very reliable 6-coupled saddletank which I drove many times until her 'ticket' ran out and she was laid-up in the back of the shed. On 3-Mar-2013, I found 'Lamport No. 3' moved to the DMU siding prior to being moved by road to new owners. I said my farewells and took a few photographs.

Farewell to 'Lamport No. 3'.

My Pictures

Works Train on the Battlefield Line.
Bubble Car.
Lamport No. 3.
The Battlefield Line Collection.

Saturday Steam

Events of Saturday, 2nd March 2013

The Power Hall, showing the sectioned Beyer Peacock 2-4-0T 'Pender'.

I was rostered as driver with Richard as fireman, Mike as operating officer and Peter as guard at the Museum of Science and Industry (MOSI) in Manchester. 'Agecroft No. 1' was waiting on the pit for us, having recently returned from a short visit to the Ribble Steam Railway. While Richard put a fire in the locomotive, I started oiling-round.

Mike suggested that we assembled the train whilst steam was being raised so we opened the door to the Power Hall (a purely manual operation at present since recent maintenance has resulted in disconnection of the electric motor which used to drive the door).

The Battery Electric shunter was already coupled to the two four-wheel passenger coaches in the Power Hall allowing me to draw the coaches out and place them in the railway compound. Once the gates were secured, we could complete the shunting without crossing areas open to the public. The Battery Electric has recently received a new set of batteries, giving it a new lease of life. Having 'pinned down' the coaches, I moved the shunter to 'Agecroft No. 1', picked it up and put it on top of the coaches and moved the whole train back to the platform. The shunter was then stabled for the day in the railway compound clear of the running line.

The Battery Electric shunter stabled for the day in the railway compound.

The 20-ton brake van had been left on the buffer stop at the end of the platform and Peter elected to run with the brake van attached, allowing him to light the stove in the brake van in order to keep warm.

The Museum is using a new source of Welsh Steam Coal and this performed very well. We were able to do our 'test run' to ensure everything was in order quite early and our first passenger train left around 11:45. Although the day was cold, the sun came out making it quite pleasant and we had plenty of passengers throughout the afternoon. Each time we completed a run, Peter quickly 'ticketed' the next departure (Guards are, once again, manually collecting fares and issuing tickets, since the modern Automatic Ticket Machine at the end of the platform has been taken out of use) so we had little time to relax between trips.

At the end of the day, we detached the brake van and moved the train down the running line to the Disposal Point where we 'knocked the fire out' and emptied the ashpan. Then, I moved the Battery Electric to the head of the train, drew the train forward to clear the Power Hall points and propelled the lot into the Power Hall. An enjoyable, if tiring day!

Napyidaw

Events of Thursday 21st February 2013

At 8.0 a.m. I was collected by a charming young lady guide from Yangon called Miss Khin Khin Chaw with a driver and Toyota 'Hiace'. They'd driven from Yangon to Mandalay the previous day to meet me. That journey takes over 8 hours. On the Thursday, we were only going as far as Napyidaw (about 5 hours driving) and we would overnight there. The highway from Yangon to Mandalay has only been open a few years. It's dual carriageway with at least two lanes each way and broad verges (except where the highway passes over bridges). The road's most impressive feature is how little traffic there is.

The uncrowded highway from Mandalay to Napyidaw.

I'd planned to visit Paleik station on the double-track main line from Mandalay to Yangon and so we turned off the highway and were immediately on country roads where the tarmac strip is only wide enough for one vehicle so that passing vehicles each have to drive with one wheel on the verge. We passed through a village with simple bamboo houses very similar to the one I visited in Nga-Minn-May a few days earlier.

Rural life on the way to Paleik.

Leaving the village, we were plunged back into open country. Just as I was starting to despair, we came to a small town and found the station. I gathered what information I could and we waited while a mixed train from Mandalay passed without stopping.

A southbound train passes through Paleik.

Our driver retraced our route to get back to the highway and we continued south. We carried on to the 'Rest Stop' about halfway to Napyidaw. This had a large cafe area and I realised it was designed to handle the sudden influx of people when a number of long-distance buses stopped.

The Rest Stop en route to Napyidaw.

We carried on to the junction for Napyidaw and joined a short length of highway which passed a Toll Station and then led us through a residential zone of Napyidaw. The main roads were all dual carriageway, with at least four lanes in each direction but traffic was very sparse. Electric lighting was provided and all the verges were planted with trees and shrubs and well-tended.

Napyidaw: Four lanes each way, but little traffic.

New building was going on around us, particularly as we passed through the Hotel Zone (Napyidaw is a 'planned' new city built on a 'greenfield' location). My guide asked if I'd like to check into my hotel but I was anxious that we located the Railway Museum. Although my guide and driver seemed convinced there was such a museum, they didn't know where it was (it was my guide's first visit to the capital). I suggested enquiring at the main railway station, but they preferred to ask the groups of people relaxing on the verge near each road junction. This was not productive.

By then, we were driving through the government office area - the road we were on merely carried signs to the various ministries and landscaped side roads led to the actual buildings. There was a certain irony that the Ministry of Information had no idea about a railway museum but a second attempt at the Ministry of Rail Transportation apparently obtained some guidance. I was quite taken by a rather odd 3-aspect upper quadrant semaphore signal at the road junction and even more taken with the plinthed locomotive (a class 'ST' 2-6-4T) near the offices.

Class 'ST' 2-6-4T displayed at the Ministry of Rail Transportation.

The locomotive appeared to be festooned in chains of 'fairy lights' outlining the shape so I probably wouldn't have been quite so impressed if I'd seen it at night. The actual ministry building was a modest, modern office block - I'd expected something more flamboyant.

Leaving the Ministry, I knew our route was now taking us towards the railway line, so I was a little more hopeful. Once the double-track line was in sight, I spotted a semaphore distant signal which enabled me to confirm the direction to the nearest station. Unfortunately, my guide and driver were convinced that our route lay in the opposite direction. It was only after a mile or so of increasingly rural travel that they could be persuaded to turn around and retrace our steps. I was much happier as we approached a station but couldn't help pointing out that it seemed a very small, very rural station to host a museum. However, I was always happy to do a quick survey of another station so we crossed the tracks to the station buildings at Twa Daw, where my guide was assured by the stationmaster that the museum was located at the next station along - the main railway station for Napyidaw.

After another drive along the wide, virtually deserted roads we came to the huge, modern station of Napyidaw. The station and its ten platforms were certainly impressive but it was odd that there were no other buildings nearby, no sign of the city it served. It reminded me a little of all the 'Parkway' stations we now have in England, where the name is a warning that the place served is some distance away. It was also odd that, in the whole time we spent in the vicinity of the station, not a single wheel turned on the railway. There were coaches, diesel locomotives and railcars but all with an abandoned air, in stark contrast to the permanent bustle around Yangon Central station.

Napyidaw Station.

The guide enquired as to the exact location of the museum - it was another modern building about 100 yards from the station. Yes! It was clearly marked 'Myanma Railway Museum' and 'Inaugurated 4th January 2012'. It was also clearly closed.


Thwarted by a decorative security gate and padlock.

It was here that my guide showed her true colours. Bidding me wait, she and the driver disappeared towards the station. I reviewed what was outside. A wooden shelter housed a short length of track mounting a wagon wheelset and a coupled wheelset. Nearby there were three wheelsets with a ''cowcatcher' and chopper coupling mounted on an curious undulating length of 'track'. I could only assume this was 'Art' because, even in my rather jaundiced state of mind, I had to admit that this 'track' was worse than any of the permanent way I'd seen in Burma (and I'd seen some very poor track).

Burmese Art (?) with the rather grand museum building in the background.

A little way off, there was an example of topiary in the general shape of a locomotive. I decided it was a bit too hot to look at this just then. Further off, there was a plinthed locomotive which definitely deserved inspection, but I decided to keep this as my 'consolation prize' for failing to visit the museum. At that moment, my guide and driver returned with three people in tow. One was apparently the curator, and one had a key for the padlock. Success! There was quite a reasonable display of models and fairly small artefacts. Most had simple descriptions in English I spent around 40 minutes furiously trying to capture as much as possible for further study.

Then it was check on the topiary, record the rather handsome plinthed 'Pacific (not sure about the chimney extension, though) and I rejoined the car, totally exhausted, with a view to finding the hotel.

The plinthed, oil-burning 'Pacific' outside Napyidaw station.

Before we drove off, my guide innocently enquired "Don't you want to look at that?". I'd completely missed what's supposed to be the first steam locomotive in Burma - a 'Dubs' 2-4-0 tank with an odd smokebox extension displayed inside the main station building.

Locomotive A.01 - a 2-4-0T built by Dubs & Co. in Glasgow, put into service 1-May-1877. Weight: 17.65 tons. Tractive Effort: 3857 lbs.

Finally, having snatched a few pictures of the Dubs, we set off to find my hotel - the Aureum Palace Hotel. Having booked in at Reception, I was taken in an electric golf cart about 200 yards to a very decent semi-detached 'villa' overlooking an artificial, but attractive small lake. The lake had a fair population of geese.

My semidetached 'villa' at the Aureum Palace Hotel.

I wasn't quite finished for the day, because my guide had offered to return and take me to see the modern golden pagoda in Napyidaw and I'd agreed to be ready to go out again in a couple of hours.

My Pictures

Road from Mandalay to Napyidaw.
Paleik Station.
Around Napyidaw.
Twa Daw Station.
Napyidaw Station.
Myanma Railway Museum.
Aureum Palace Hotel, Naypyitaw.

[Revised 8th March 2013, 17-Mar-2013, 19-Mar-2013, 20-Mar-2013]

More Mandalay

Events of Wednesday 20th February, 2013

I'd arranged with my guide that we'd make one more excursion, travelling to the ever-beautiful Sagaing Hills. It's a trip I'd made before but I never tire of the area. However, we made a slight detour on the way, to look again at Ywa Taung station.

I'd first visited Ywa Taung in 2012 with Doctor Hla Tun as we returned from making a stationery donation at Taung Be Lar School. That earlier visit is described here. On my second visit to the station on 20th February 2013 I took additional photographs to clarify arrangements. My second visit coincided with seeing two trains! On our arrival, a local train to Mandalay was waiting in the platform loop. Most of the lines are single and the local was stopped for the Mandalay to Myitkyina express to pass. This important train included a restaurant coach. Once the express had passed, I could see the pointsman changing the points so that the stopping train could continue on to Mandalay.

The Mandalay - Myitkyina express passes Ywa Taung.

Then we took the winding road to the summit at Sagaing and the temple housing the most famous Buddha image. We spent some time on the promenade surrounding the temple which commands marvellous views in all directions. It was a little hazy, limiting how far we could see, but we could study the amazing number of pagodas, monasteries and other religious buildings and watch all the river activity in the Shwe Kyet Yet area.

Numerous pagodas dot the wooded hills of Sagaing.

Driving back to Mandalay City across the new road bridge, it was clear just how low the water was. The broad river had two small navigable channels, one adjacent to either river bank, and the rest was sandbanks.

We returned to the Sedona Hotel passing a very elaborate Noviciation Procession which included an elephant. It's quite expensive to arrange for an elephant, I was told, so this was a rich family. The actual Noviciation Ceremony would probably be held on the following day.

Just part of the extensive procession.

Safely back at the Sedona Hotel, it was time to say "goodbye" to my guide and driver. On the following day I was to meet a different guide and driver for the journey south.

Wednesday was the day that a new group of guests arrived for the 'Road to Mandalay'. They would have flown into Mandalay International Airport. In the past, I have poked fun of the fact that Mandalay International Airport had no scheduled International Flights (just the occasional charter flight). Perhaps it's an indication of the changes taking place in Burma that the budget airline AirAsia now has regular flights to Bangkok for 50 dollars. I'm told AirAsia will also introduce a direct service to Singapore shortly. At the airport 'Road to Mandalay' guests would have met their guides for the trip, boarded the waiting coaches and spent the morning touring Mandalay. The guests were to meet at the Sedona Hotel for a buffet lunch before joining their coaches once again for the drive by road to Myin Mu where their ship was waiting.

Doctor Hla Tun had told me that he was usually at the hotel for the buffet lunch, in case any of the guests required medical help. I waited outside as the various buses arrived and, of course, I knew many of the staff and guides looking after the newly-arrived guests.

'RTM' Guests arrive at the Sedona Hotel for a Buffet Lunch.

Doctor Hla Tun arrived a little later: he had been to purchase medicines for use on the ship. The Doctor and I talked for a while in the hotel lobby and then (having left word where he'd be, if required) we walked around the corner to the Shwe Pyi Moe Cafe where the Doctor ordered a simple Burmese meal, whilst I had a Coca-Cola.

The Shwe Pyi Moe Cafe.

When we arrived back at the hotel the last 'RTM' coach was just leaving. The Doctor quickly collected his medicines, said goodbye and joined the bus. Amongst the new Guests, there were two 'stragglers' who had somehow missed the coaches. They were eventually located by the member of 'RTM' staff who had remained behind with a car so disaster was averted.

The following day, I was to leave Mandalay and head south by car.

My Pictures

Ywa Taung Station.
Sagaing (2013).
Noviciation Procession in Mandalay.
'RTM' at the Sedona.

[Revised 8th March 2013]

Maymyo

Events of Tuesday 19th February, 2013

The tour company had proposed a full-day trip to Maymyo. That was agreed, with one change. I wanted to travel from Mandalay to Maymyo by train, returning by car. One problem was that the train was scheduled to leave at 4.00 a.m. Adding the 30 minutes 'reporting time', transfer by taxi to the station and getting ready, I set my alarm for 2.40 a.m. I was on the platform at Mandalay Central, under the bleak fluorescent lighting, about 3.20 a.m. There was plenty of freight piled on the platform, together with a number of porters who tried to sleep whilst waiting. There were about a dozen Europeans waiting and a number of Burmese. There was even a locomotive, sitting at the south end of the platform. All that was missing was coaches to form the train. It was about 6.00 a.m. when the station 'pilot' passed through the station heading north on another line hauling some coaches, returning a few minutes later propelling the coaches into our platform and onto the waiting locomotive. By the time the porters had dragged the freight into the two boxcars at the rear it was 6.17 a.m. when we departed.

There was plenty of freight piled on the platform to be loaded on the train.

The particular reason I had for wanting to make this journey is that the line beyond Sedaw uses a zig-zag arrangement where the train shuffles backwards and forwards between four 'Reversing Stations' in order to gain height before completing its journey to Maymyo.


The Zig-Zag railway in the line to Maymyo.

I arrived at Maymyo station tired but happy and over two hours late. Unfortunately, my guide and driver had also had a long wait before my train appeared.

Our train on arrival at Maymyo, now called Pyin Oo Lwin.

I had decided to visit the two nuns who run the Shwe Sin Minn girls' orphanage. I'd first visited the orphanage in November 2011 and that visit is described here. Largely because of the continuing unrest in Kachin State, the number of orphans they look after had increased from 300 to 500. More building work was in progress to accommodate the extra girls. The nuns made me welcome and said I should return each year. I took a few pictures during the visit and I've added them to the original collection here.


The two nuns who founded and run the girls' orphanage.

After visiting the girls'orphanage, we drove to Pwe Kauk Waterfalls, about 5 miles northest of the town, off the road to Hsipaw. The falls aren't that spectacular but, by the addition of paths and bridges, the wooded location has been turned into water gardens to appeal to the Burmese and I found it rather charming. There was a long row of stalls selling food and souvenirs but it was all so laid-back I wasn't offended at all. My driver and guide had lunch at one of the tea shops and I joined them for a Coca-Cola 'lookalike'. To my surprise, it tasted very good.

Pwe Kauk Waterfalls.

Close by, we went to the Aung Htu Kan Tha shrine. Although modern, it has an interesting story. In April 1997, a truck was carrying a consignment of large Buddhas to China. One of the Buddhas fell off the truck nearby and attempts to re-load it on the vehicle failed. The truck driver then recalled a dream from the previous night concerning a Buddha image which did not want to leave Myanmar! So the Buddha remained and a temple was erected to house it. The design of the building is reputedly based on that of the revered Ananda Temple in Bagan. At the time of my visit, the outside of the temple was being re-gilded, involving elaborate bamboo scaffolding and woven mats covering most of the exterior.


The Buddha which did not want to leave Myanmar at Aung Htu Kan Tha.

Returning to the town, my guide showed me Maymyo's Christian Cemetery, which looked rather neglected, I'm afraid. There was once a large English population in Maymyo since its elevation kept temperatures more comfortable for Europeans in Summer.

The entrance to Maymyo's neglected Christian Cemetery.

It took around two hours to return by car to my hotel in Mandalay, twice as fast as the train was supposed to be and three times as fast as the train that morning but I was still pleased that I'd made the uphill journey by train.

My pictures

By Train to Maymyo.
Shwe Sin Minn Girl's Orphanage, Maymyo.
Pwe Kauk Waterfalls.
Aung Htu Kan Tha Shrine.
Maymyo Christian Cemetery.

Myin Mu and Mon Ywa

Events of Monday 18th February, 2013

With a car, driver and guide at my disposal, I'd decided to try to meet up with the 'Road to Mandalay' ship at its temporary upstream limit of Myin Mu. The plan was then to go on from Myin Mu to the fairly large town of Mon Ywa before returning to my hotel in Mandalay.

Myin Mu is a fairly typical small town where a flattish stretch of riverbank behind a group of houses is used as a 'dock' where passengers can board the various river services and massive amounts of freight are interchanged between river craft and large lorries drawn up on the shore. We'd arrived before the 'Road to Mandalay' but the logistics manager, Mr. Soe Soe, and his team of ground staff were already hard at work making the site ready for the landing of the Guests. Because of the low water level, the 'Road to Mandalay' would moor mid-stream and a couple of ferry boats were on hand to bring people ashore to join the six or seven buses already lined-up which would be used for the Guests' activities that day.

Mr. Soe Soe invited me to join him for a drink in a typical tea shop, just across the road from the dock.

The Tea Shop in Myin Mu used by Mr. Soe Soe.

Whilst we were sitting and chatting, I was amazed when the Head Monk from the Bagan Monastery came in. Apparently, he had business to conduct in one of the Monasteries in Mandalay but it was a very unexpected reunion.

Soon, the 'Road to Mandalay' ship was sighted and she anchored midstream. The first of the two ferry boats moved out to pick up Guests and, in a short while, all the guests for the road trip had come ashore and been seated in the appropriate coach.

The first ferry boat transfers Guests from 'Road to Mandalay' to the shore at Myin Mu.

I was able to greet a number of old friends from the ship's hotel staff and the team of guides. Doctor Hla Tun came ashore for a while and we went to (another) tea shop for a drink and a chat.

Another Tea Shop in Myin Mu. The Tea Shop is a vital part of Burmese life.

However, there were guests still on the ship whom the Doctor needed to look after, so the Doctor and I said "goodbye". He returned to the ship using one of the ferry boats and I continued on to Mon Ywa with my driver and guide.

In the Po Khaung Hills, east of Mon Ywa, is the sprawling site of Bodhi Tataung, home to around 10,000 Buddha images. I wandered amongst the statues whilst my driver and guide took lunch.

Just a few of the Buddha images of Bodhi Tataung.

Then, we drove the short distance to the 90 metre reclining Buddha and 167 metre standing Buddha. You can climb up inside the standing Buddha - each floor forms an elaborately-decorated temple. I was a little disappointed that we could only get to the 10th floor as the higher floors had been temporarily closed for some reason.


The reclining and standing Buddhas.

If 10,000 Buddha images of Bodhi Tataung seems a lot, try half a million. We drove to the Thanboddhay Temple which was started in 1939 by a monk called Mo Hnyin Sayadaw. There are now well over 500,000 Buddhas decorating the building - mostly small, unpainted clay figures. My guide said that the Monk's aim was to allow even poor people to be able to donate a Buddha image to the temple.


Every surface within the temple is crammed with small Buddha images.

We then moved onto the town of Mon Ywa which my 'Lonely Planet' guide characterises as "a scrappy trade town of some 300,000 people". I didn't see anything to warrant disputing that opinion. Whilst photographing a lattice post semaphore signal on the railway, I saw a passenger train heading for Mandalay, having passed another passenger train heading in the opposite direction at the nearby station.

DD.957 hustles an ordinary train out of Mon Ywa, heading for Mandalay.

In the town centre, there's a suitably triumphant statue of General Aung San on horseback. He is considered the 'Father of Modern Burma' (see Wikipedia article). With nothing further to detain us, we started back towards Mandalay ourselves. We stopped for a few minutes at one village where I took some pictures and, by arrangement, paused at Myin Mu where I briefly saw Doctor Hla Tun. Then it was on to Mandalay, pausing only at the road toll stations. I needed to get to bed early as I had an early start the following day in order to catch the train to Maymyo.

My Pictures

Myin Mu, Burma.
Mon Ywa Buddhas.
Thanboddhay Paya, Mon Ywa.
Mon Ywa Station, Burma.
By road from Mon Ywa to Mandalay.